New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

well your bubble counter on your co2 regulator should have a built in check valve, then you run a check valve on the co2 recirc line, before the T. those are the only check valves i am running and all works fine. althuogh i am running my reactor under a bit of pressure, since i tapped into my return line from my sump with a jg fitting and run that to the reactor, then i put a needle valve on the reactor effluent. my thinking was that you can regulate something alot better if it is under constant pressure, also the neddle valve cant clog, unlike it alsways dip with my kalk dripper, if it is under pressure. so far, that last month and a half, i have not had to readjust anything on the reactor, besides dialing it in. truly a set and forget design.

Tim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6327031#post6327031 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pantinor
Hey I am having the same problem with water backing up in the bubble counter. I am using an aquamedic regulator with a separate bubble counter, not the integrated milwaukee thing. I have the co2 line teed off in the middle of the recirc line, and if I turn off the needle valve, the water backs up and drips out. If i tuern on the needle valve the co2 will push all the water out of it!
What the heck do I have to do? tee off the co2 line somewhere else? The bubble counter wont stay stable with a level of water that lets me count the bubbles, and the water backup problem is pretty bad too. Anyone have ideas?

Are you using any check valves? so the flow can only go in one direction.
 
Where can you find check valves for 1/4" line?

Melev, where did you put your check valves?
There should be one from the bubble counter to the reactor. Did you place the second one from the reactor top to the tank?

TAMU Reef
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6340592#post6340592 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TAMU Reef
Where can you find check valves for 1/4" line?

Melev, where did you put your check valves?
There should be one from the bubble counter to the reactor. Did you place the second one from the reactor top to the tank?

TAMU Reef

If I'm not mistaken I got mine at Home Depot but you can always get them online too.

http://www.marinedepot.com/b_product_list_index.asp?ManName=JG_Plumbing_Fittings

http://www.johnguest.com/company4.asp
 
My LifeReef skimmer came with a check valve right under the built-in bubble counter. I put another one after the bubble counter before it went into the reactor.

I checked it last night to see if fluid was going back up the line, but it was not. It is going back about 2" up the CO2 tube, and no more. I remember when it would go back, fill up the bubble counter, and continue to fill the 24" of tubing almost completely to the bubble counter on the regulator. Maybe because of the way it is set up now, that has been resolved. Or maybe because I'm letting more effluent out of the reactor instead of mere drips. I'm not sure.
 
OK I am going to purchase some check valves and noticed that some aquarium supply stores offer CO2 resistant tubing. Melev, I noticed you used silicone tubing and Zapata41 you used polyethylene tubing. I was going to use ployethylene, but hesitated.

Does anyone know the best tubing for this. I am using johnguest fittings, so silicone is probably out. Somewhere I read that Tygon would be best.

The websites that sell CO2 resistant tubing don't describe what kind it is....

TAMU Reef
 
I don't know what kind of tubing I'm using currently. It is just standard aquarium tubing you can get at any LFS. I have some very soft bright green tubing as well, but I use that for other applications like auto top off. How do you know the clear kind is silicone-based? Just curious.
 
I have been using the standard 1/4 poly tubing for my CO2 supply for over 18 months without problems. I don't think you need special tubing for this application.

I also have been running a Milwaukee CO2 regulator/solenoid/bubble trap. About 2 months ago, it stopped working. It is out of warranty so I decided to try and figure out what went wrong with it to see if could fix it (I had nothing to loose). What I discovered was that the passage from the bubble counter back to the needle assembly was plugged with corrosion and what looked like calcium deposits. I backed the needle out as far as it goes, removed the bubble counter assembly and cleaned out the passage with a 1/16" drill bit. It works like a charm. I don't know why it corroded, I only use RODI water in there... DO NOT use sea water in the bubble counter as it will corrode the brass. If you have water backing up from your reactor and filling your bubble counter, you have a leak somewhere between the reactor and the solenoid. On my setup, water used to backup about 2" up the line. When I cleaned out the bubble counter passage, I used Teflon tape when I re-assembled the unit and water no longer backs up the CO2 line.

The reason people use a pH controller on the effluent of the reactor is to make "dialing-in" the reactor easier and for a fail-safe. There are 2 variables at play when dialing in your reactor, the rate of CO2 administration and the flow rate through the reactor. Without the pH controller, changing the flow rate, changes the pH levels in the reactor (assuming constant CO2 bubble rate). IME, maintaining a consistent flow rate through the reactor is difficult without the use of a metering pump. Every few days I would notice the flow rate dropping and I would have to bump it back up to maintain what I wanted. The problem was that if I didn't adjust it every few days and the flow rate dropped too low, the pH level in my reactor would drop so low that the media turns to mush. With the pH controller, you set the pH and if the flow is cut for whatever reason, the CO2 administration will be cut. This is also why I have my pH probe measure the pH of the water in the reactor, not the effluent. This way when the flow is cut off, (supply pump or needle valve gets plugged) the CO2 will be cut off before the reactor media is turned to mush. A cheap in-line probe holder is a 1/2" John Guest fitting with the tubing stop drilled out of it. This fitting is sold at HD. You can use a second pH controller to cut the feed pump to your reactor if the pH in your tank gets too low.

Easy Calcium reactor Dial-in guide if using a pH controller to maintain pH in the reactor.

1) Calibrate your pH controller probe according to manufacturer's directions.
2) Set flow rate through the reactor to approx 1ml/min per gallon of system water (100 gallon system would have a flow rate of 100ml per minute).
3) Set the pH controller to maintain a pH of 6.8 in the reactor.
4) Measure and record the calcium and Alk levels in your system.
5) Use appropriate additive's to get CA to ~400
6) Let the system run for 48 hrs.
7) Measure CA and Alk.
If still at 400, you are finished, proceed to step 9
If it dropped, drop pH in reactor .1 pH
If it raised, raise the pH in the reactor .1 pH
8) Repeat steps 5, 6, and 7 until CA is maintained
9) Measure CA and Alk weekly and adjust pH if necessary.
 
schwaggs,

As always great details on how to calibrate your reactor. Should any adjustments to the reactor be made if the calcium levels are in check but not the alk levels?

p.s. check your private messages for another question.

Rico.
 
Thanks for the great info!

Wouldnt the effluent PH be the same as the PH in the reactor, since it is water pushed out by the input pump?

Can the media turn to mush in just a day or two?

I built the reactor that is the subject that started this string. Where would you suggest mounting the PH probe?

I just turned it on last night. I had a hell of a time getting the bubble count to stay constant. I would set it and come back a few minutes later and it would have stopped. I turned the pressure up and it seems to be working fine now.

Thanks again for the info.
 
In thinking about my question on the effluent PH, I may have stumbled on my on answer. The PH of the effluent will change once the water is exposed to air? My effluent collects in a piece of halve inch pvc pipe that is capped. The PH probe is stuck in there as is the output from the reactor. I drilled a hole about two inches from the bottom which allows the effluent to drip into the sump. Got the idea back in the posts here, I cant take credit for the idea, but it sounded like a good way to monitor the PH of the effleuent.

Back to the start of this post, measuring the effluent PH as I am, would it not be the same as in the reactor?
 
Ok, I re-read your post Schwaggs and pulled my head out of my back side, your reason for putting the probe in the reactor was due to the flow stopping or slowing from the reactor, there by it would stop reading any PH until possibly it was too late.

Darn good idea, I will move mine first time I service it, since I just filled it up and turned it on yesterday.
 
Thats a good catch, I should have mentioned to set the pressure on the regulator to around 20 psi (or whatever your regulator/solonoid manuafacturer reccomends) and the bubble rate to around 60 for most systems. The bubble rate can be adjusted up or down for larger or lower flow rates but it really doesn't have to unless you can't keep the pH down.

scbasser5, the media can turn to mush in a few minutes if you lower the pH too low. I have the probe mounted in a T in the return side (return to the pump). The T has a 1/2 FPT into which I thread a 1/2" John Guest fitting with the bottom stop drilled out. A picture is worth a thousand words, see below.

10883117-1793_IMG.jpg


Rico, After starting the CA reactor. I have never had a problem keeping Alk in line as long as the CA levels were at 400 or so. If you have the ca levels at 400 but alk is too low, I would add the alk booster additive of your choice, slowly over the period of several days until your alk is at the proper levels.
 
Schwaggs, you return is set up a little different than DJ's. The lines going into the tee are supply line on top, recirc in the end and co2 in the bottom??

Does this seem to work ok? It is not really the venturi setup DJ suggested.

This arraingment doesnt impeed, your return too much I assume?

Ok, I looked back through the posts, I remembered someone did something different, It was you.

Thanks for the help, got the answers to the above questions.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6363635#post6363635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbasser5
Schwaggs, you return is set up a little different than DJ's. The lines going into the tee are supply line on top, recirc in the end and co2 in the bottom??
you got it...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6363635#post6363635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbasser5
Does this seem to work ok? It is not really the venturi setup DJ suggested.
Works like a charm. As it turns out, a venturi isn't required to create a flow from the top of the reactor to the inlet of the pump. The restriction of flowing through the media creates enough pressure differential to create flow.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6363635#post6363635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbasser5
This arraingment doesnt impeed, your return too much I assume?
Actually, the elimintaion of the venturi should improve flow, if anything....
 
I used a mag 5, so I should have plenty of flow. I will be changing my set up to something like yours probably this week.

Only thing I have not found is check valves. Looks like I will have to order online. I have been to two HD's and a Lowes, and two plumbing supply places and no luck so far.

Thanks for the info.
 
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