New Deodronephthya sp. study group?

David,

With the polyps in the QT you should probably siphon out what they don't eat, otherwise you'll quickly start to foul the water with the amount of food you're going to be adding.

Defintely start feeding with the lights off... in time you should see them open all day, esp. in a refugium crawling with pods. :)

Keep at it, it may take a few days.

--SM--
 
Well I checked again after lights out and ther was more polyp extension still not 100 %, so I put in some frozen brine and I could see the polyps capturing some. After 10 or 15 min I siphoned out any collecting stuff. This morning I again siphoned out any collected stuff and changed out 5 gals.

Should I be feeding it more often given its state of health, or will once per day be fine?

I'm gonna put together a 2 liter top for more concentrated feeding like I've seen some people do.
 
If you use the pop bottle you might be able to siphon out the leftovers before removing the bottle, should make it easier and you won't have to change as much water.
 
Nice links Detritvore, I've never heard of the ultra pac stuff. Basically the same recipe in the first two links with at least short term success. I wonder if Charles has done anything with it? Could it be the answer?


Okay just read a little further and the first two links are one in the same.
 
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yes, i think the second one went into more detail. danny mentioned that jens kallymer used the same(or similar) formula and had success for over 2 years.
 
have you guys came up with a general outline on how to go about caring for them? i want to try them but i want to know what you guys have found out.
 
Hi Charles, I've been periodically checking in on coralite.net so far nothing new. So I'm wondering how things are going there, and if the feeding you described in one of your last most recent post is still having a positive effect.


Mary, we're all still waiting for a description of your husbandry techniques as per Charles's request, Herpervet has been waitng on pins and needles since 12-21-05, which must be getting very uncomfortable. The entire world is waiting in anticipation :)
 
Mary, can you post pics of it and how the light is hitting it, I'd like to see the position and stuff.

I know there is a lot of debate on whether these should be kept or not, but, the same went for most corals at one point or another, and ingenuity, study and perserverence of so many made them successful on a huge scale. I think it is very very worth learning if dendro husbandry can be successful, and propogation in the long term.

I've tried a few, sadly they basically disintigrated. I have one now, a beautiful deep orange and yellow colored one, probably about 3 months. It is hanging upside down in a rock crevice in my 75gal at this point. I feed DT's, oyster egss, cyclo-peeze and some other random things. Not great extension yet, but it is holding its own.

'If' I see it taking a bad turn, I may 'donate' it to someone here who is seeing some success.

Great thread, I am so glad to see a group that wants to get a real collaborative effort to master these!
 
With all fragile corals there must be hearty strains found and then clone from those.

avoid taking these from the wild.

IMO

Amazing Great Walls of Deodronephthya can be found in Somosomo Strait, Fiji
 
Okay

Here goes, I think I will do a basic list of what I know works and does not work.

What not to do, what does not work.

1. Moving them around, decide where you want it and leave it there. Move the powerhead not the dendro.

2. Hiding them away from the light. Mine seem to love my new 400watt MH lights.

3. Don't let them get knocked around by snails and crabs. Glue the rock they are on down.

4. Don't ever think you have to much flow, you don't. Just don't point a powerhead so that the flow is forceful.

5. Don't get discouraged someday we will all figure out why they grow in some tanks and not in others.



What does seem to work.

1. Feed, Feed, Feed. Crush up every kind of flake and other dry foods, that you can think of or find. Mix them all together and then add some fresh RO or declorinated tap water. Stir it all up and let it sit in the refridgerator for a few hours so that the food and liquid seperate again. now draw off the liquid without the muck in the bottom, add invert target food (a liquid from lfs) Just a few drops will do, add frozen/thawed cyclopeeze (sp) and I like to add some zooplex as well. Now go feed all your other corals. and give some to the dendro's. Once you have done that take some of the liquid with the muck in it and gently spray some of it, muck and all, into the branches of your dendro, and sit back and watch the little poylps catch the crushed flakes, If they do not hold onto them then you did not crush them fine enough. The dry foods should like a course meal. (size)

2. Keep all of your dendro's close together so that they can reach out and touch one another. They seem to do better when they can. Mine even spawned in my tank. I have a second generation growning all down in the rocks at the bottom of my tank where they settled. (This is in areas where I have never had the mother colonies no way they could have fallen from the mother colony.

3. Try not to touch them any more than you have to.

4. Blow the muck off of and out of your rock holes and crevices. They will eat it.

5. Very little sand in the tank. I started out with two bags of the black and white. Pacific I think. (don't hold me to that it has been 2 years.) But I removed about half of it last Feb. and put it in a couple of other tanks, and gave the sand in those tanks to my Mom for her tank. So I have very little sand what is there is mostly blown back in the rocks.

6. They do get along with anything and everything. Other soft coral as well as lps and sps.

7. When I had a sand bed I use to stick the turkeybaster down in the sand and make the gunk surround the dendro. It seemed to like that.

8. I have kept them under PC lighting as well as MH lighting. PC's were 8x 55watt Jebo 4 actinic and 4 10K. With this lighting they were about mid way the tank (top to bottom) Then I switched to MH lighting, pretty much everything in the tank moved down a few inches. The dendro fell one night and I left it on the bottom of the tank. No sand close to it. I just made sure the rock was turned so that the dendro was on top. It seems happy there. It has been under MH lighting now for over 2 months and is still doing fine.

9. They do sometimes close up for several hours to a couple of days so don't panic.

10. Sometimes feed live brine shrimp, they seem to like it very well also, but that is a little harder to do as you have to get them the hang in the end of the turkey baster long enough for the polyps to grab on to them.

Okay hope that helps I will write more when I get a chance and when I think of something else that I think is important.
 
Study

Study

Hi all,
I am doing research for an academic symposium for college. I am doing it on Dendro. Next semester I am doing the actual study part. This is just the information gathering stage. I will be willing to collaborate what I am doing with others. This is a controlled research on the species. I will be doing chemical analysis, and other controlled tests on this species as well. If you have any more information please forward it to rickyfins@verizon.net I am doing this in a college laboratory. Oh and the Dendro/non-photosynthetic forum would be a great idea. Or maybe it should be a research forum for serious debates and research findings for any species.

Thanks,

Rick
 
Thanks Mary, awsome info. I'm curious about the lack of sand bed. I read Charles thoughts that he previously posted. Do you think this would apply to a remote sand bed set up as well?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6643678#post6643678 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by graveyardworm
Thanks Mary, awsome info. I'm curious about the lack of sand bed. I read Charles thoughts that he previously posted. Do you think this would apply to a remote sand bed set up as well?


Not sure what you mean here, but if you are asking if a remote sand bed would feed the dendro as well as and in tank sand bed?

Then I would have to say only if it were stirred up long enough to get the cloud of stuff to get to the dendro in the main tank.

My suggestion would be stir it really well in the remote area. Then dip out the water with a good concentration of the (whatever the stuff is, I assume it is bacteria) and then let it settle to the bottom of the container. Draw off some of the water to make it as concentrated as you can get it. Then take a target doser/feeding tube and introduce it to the main tank around the dendro.

This is what I would do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6401978#post6401978 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by charles matthews
Mary, it could be very important that you have very little sand in your tank. It has been extremely well documented in the literature on prawn cultivation in commercial systems that Vibrio and other bacteria produce substances that are deleterious to larval development. They also note that ponds get old and have to be replaced, presumably because of limitations in material in the substrate.

As we know, there are a tremendous variety of creatures that live in substrates. They all grow exponentially. If they did not consume each other or otherwise limit each other's growth, the surface of the earth would soon be covered in bacteria. Bacterial growth, as far as I understand it, is limited by bacterial warfare to a great extent- overgrowth, secretion of digestive attacks, growth inhibitors, cell signalling- all kinds of chemical gunk gets put out. Most of this is presumably short range, and is metabolized quickly. However, in our small aquariums, temperature changes, salinity changes, a piece of food on the floor of the aquarium, a minor disturbance with fish digging, advective currents that change randomly- all create a riot of reshuffling of the bacterial populations.

As substrates age, they can put out nitrogen as a gas, but they can't put out phosphate and refractory ash products of metabolism. As in commercial prawn farmiing, substrates reach a limit where production starts to fall.

I believe, as we feed our tanks more, we will see these limits earlier. And I suspect what Mary is doing is going to be the answer- bare bottom tanks with algae filtration.

By the way, there is an OUTSTANDING discussion of plankton and sand bed advection in the third volume of Delbeek and Sprung- read it! My take- sand beds are competitive with filter feeders.


I'm not sure I agree fully here, My 90 gal mixed reef has a DSB with a plenum, and the underside of my rocks and the back glass is literally covered with filter feeding worms and sponges. More than likely you're right though as I have not read the studies and research that you have. Just speaking from my experience. I may also be comparing apples to oranges here.
 
Mary, amazing info on the menu for them and how to prepare it. I've been keeping lights off in that tank, just ambient light from the room and some, not direct, from the windows. I am surprised to hear about your MH's, but then, I had a swiftia, which is said to not like light, and the polyps would burst open with the MH's.

Please please try to get us some pics. The fact that they have reproduced and more are growing is just spectacular!
 
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