New Frag Tank Build

[cardiffgiant]

I didn't even think about the diameter of the return plumbing. 1.5" should give you minimal head loss.


Would he really be able to redirect from the return pump to the skimmer? I wouldn't think that you've get enough flow, and you wouldn't get as much air without the venturi. Or am I misunderstanding.

You could always try feeding the fuge with the skimmer effluent, and then have more flow from the return to the display, but you won't have as much control over the flow.

 

[captain7359]

The skimmer is a recirc, so you have to feed it water with either a powerhead or a tee off the main pump. So long as you can get 5x the tank volume through the main tank from the return pump then you are fine. Anymore and you start wasting energy with a larger return pump.

 

[Steve Canyon]

Why not feed it directly from the tank with gravity?

 

[dbartkow]

Great questions, guys. Let me try and answer and I look forward to your response. Nothing has been glued yet, so things can be easily changed.

Regarding the return pipe, yes it is 3/4" PVC. I went with this because the opening of the flow out of the pump was 3/4". I figured I couldn't get any better than that. Am I wrong in my thinking? Will I still get better flow going with 1" PVC?

I thought about using gravity to feed the skimmer, but I really wanted to use a filter sock. I got a little more complicated trying to go through the filter sock and then feed into the skimmer. So I was planning to use an extra powerhead. I hadn't considered feeding it from the return pump. If I did that, I would have to have to split the return into three - 1 for skimmer, 2 for the return to tank, 3 to the fuge. Is that the best way to go or would I lose a lot of flow doing it that way? Would I be better off with the separate powerhead feeding the skimmer? I don't know, but I would love to hear everyones thoughts/suggestions.

Dave

 

[Steve Canyon]

simple is good. A powerhead isnt going to create too much heat. The cost of the electricity is nominal with Fairport Electric. I say go with your first instinct. the powerhead has my vote.

 

[captain7359]

http://reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator

With a mag 9, 3' vertical, 4' horizontal, 2 90's, 2 45's, 1 ball valve and 2 exits you get the flows below.
3/4" 628 gph
1" 761 gph
1.25" 826
1.5" 842
I'd go with 1" or 1.25" and try and feed as much other equipment as you can with it. Let your overflow with a sock go into the fuge section and you're all set. There's no need to feed a fuge with a pump. you want the dirty water from the tank going to the fuge anyways not some that has been skimmed already. I'd also give yourself some small taps off the return for media reactors(carbon or phos) to save on pumps too. the less equipment the less initial investment, less maintenance, and less energy the better in my mind. With a direct feed from an overflow into a skimmer you have a hard time keeping a constant head and therefore level in the skimmer so I never direct fed from the overflow.

 

[cardiffgiant]

Thanks for answering my question, I haven't worked with a recirc skimmer before.

Here is a link to the RC head loss calculator, in case you want to get an estimate of what different plumbing configs will do.

http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php

 

[Steve Canyon]

Any updates Dave?

 

[dbartkow]

Okay, an update is a good idea. I have taken into consideration everyone suggestions - thank you, it was very helpful. Here are some changes I made:

- I have upgraded the return plumbing to 1" PVC. You can see that in this picture. I also added a bulkhead in the bottom center of the tank. I have a valve connected below (see second picture) to be used for water changes. This will hopefully make it easier to suck any leftovers off the bottom of the tank.

(sorry for the poor pictures, I don't have my camera with me today and just used my iPhone)

- I tried to "T" off the return to feed the skimmer, but the plumbing was getting a little crazy with all the angles and elbows. I even tried tubing and it was bending. So I decided to simplify it and just use a powerhead the feed the skimmer.

- Since I have two 1" overflow pipes, I decided to have one run into the skimmer area and one run into the fuge area. It simplifies the plumbing and minimizes the number of Ts coming off the return (not having to feed the fuge area).

- I did add one dead-end "T" off the return for future expansion of media reactors and such. I have it just closed off with a valve for now.

I have also been working on my lights. I purchased 2 used Lumen Max 3 DE 250W pendents. I have one EVC 250W electronic ballast to power one of them, but still need to eventually get another one.

That is about all the updates for now... I'd appreciate any further input into my plumbing. I still haven't glued anything, because I wanted another sanity check.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Steve Canyon]

This baby really is looking sweet, Dave. Thanks for the update. It looks to me like this is going to be a near perfectly engineered prop. system! Now someone needs to offer up a ballast and you should be ready to add water!

 

[dbartkow]

I trimmed up the black eggcrate from Walter and it is looking pretty good in the frag tank.

It is looking so good, I decided the white PVC isn't going to cut it. So I decided to change is color with a little help...

I am spraying the pvc today... will have pictures tomorrow with everything black up top.

Dave

 

[dbartkow]

Paint is dried and things are looking pretty cool in black!

What do you think?
Dave

 

[Fatboy Stinger]

Dave this is looking GREAT!!!!!! You really have me inspired to maybe try and do one of these myself! Can I ask around how much do you think it has cost you so far to build?

 

[dbartkow]

Dave this is looking GREAT!!!!!! You really have me inspired to maybe try and do one of these myself! Can I ask around how much do you think it has cost you so far to build?

Okay, did my wife put you up to this! lol!

Just kidding, I am guessing the parts to make the tank with all the plumbing was about $300. I already had a 55 gallon to use for the sump and then I was able to buy a used skimmer and lights. Those were more, but that is all depending on what type of system you want. I could have easily done things cheaper than I did, but this is the approach I decided to take. There are a lot of commercially available tubs you can use that will save to cost of building a tank. But, I thought I would have some fun making my own.:spin2:

Dave

 

[sbanks78]

where the up dates? nice setup !!

 

[superkat]

totally a geeky reef girl comment...but that is absolutely beautiful.....

 

[dbartkow]

superkat, thanks for the nice comments. It is turning out to be a much longer project than I ever anticipated, but that is the way it works out some times.

I have made some good progress. Since I decided to set this up in my office (instead of my house, like originally planned), I needed to get another RO/DI unit for the office. I got a great deal on a 5 stage unit from Air Water Ice. They have a special for $150 plus you get an extra set of all the cartridges. So that was a pretty good deal. Anyway, that arrived yesterday and I started making some water this morning.

I picked up two 30 gallon barrels from Ontario Recycling for $20 each.

I will be hanging the lights today and should have the water bubbling in the skimmer by the end of the week. I will take some more pictures when the lights get put up.

Dave

 

[Brent Thomann]

Nice deal on the High Density barrels w/ lids even.


I really would like to see the light spread of your Lumen Max 3 DE 250W pendents hanging over your 4x3' tank.

I was thinking about going with them cause I really like DE bulbs and I already have an extra HQI ballast but was told from the manufacture that their more for 2x2' coverage and give a spot light effect for deeper 30" tanks.

I may just have to use Coralvue's-
Lumenbright Mogul SE Wide Pendant (16”x16”x7”)
or
Lumenbright SE Large Pendant (20"x20"x9.5")

I'm going to build a 4'x3' tank like yours but I wanted to have half halide lighting and half T5. I already have the T5 fixture, just need to get a halide pendant thats going to cover close to a 3'x3' area. 12" is going to be for the T5. I think zoo's and some LPS look nicer under T5's.

 

[dbartkow]

Brent,
I am not sure if this helps, but here is a picture of one of the lights mounted. I am missing part of the mounting bracket for the other one, so I can't get that one up yet. I also don't have a ballast for that one so I couldn't turn it on anyway.

The light is a 250W 20K Ushio. It is mounted 12 inches from the top of the tank. Not sure if that is a good height or not, but I thought that was a good starting point.

You are more than welcomed to stop by and see it if you want... might be a hike for you though.

Dave

 

[Steve Canyon]

After the water is in, I know you'll be using that PAR meter of yours to figure out the perfect height. Until then, it's all speculation anyway. This is looking awesome Dave. I really think you're setting a new benchmark for the diy community!