New In-wall Project Begins

I guess we haven't seen the same inwalls. I haven't seen many inwalls with the full 6" dsb visible.....maybe an inch or so but I think one of the advantages of an inwall is to hide the denitrification (sp?) zones in your sandbed. I would either go dsb (5" to 6"....nothing less!!!) or an extremely shallow bed and vacuum weekly to remove detrius. If you use a shallow bed and don't remove the waste your going to have phosphate issues (a big problem if your looking at a sps tank). If you look at the long-term successful sps tanks, your going to find bb, dsb (6"), or shallow sand bed that is vacuumed and the sand replaced periodically.
 
Sorry Fursphere... I didn't answer your question.

I fly a Hirobo GPH 346 and a TT Raptor V2. Truth be told I didn't get any collective time at all last year and only a little hand launch and 2M electric soaring.

It's all about priorities I guess. With the new house, sprinkler, lawn, landscaping, and new tank, I don't see a big flying year in store for me this year either... Its a good problem to have!
 
Doug,
Maybe a little off topic, but I was reading a lot of tank project threads and the one thing that kept coming up was the bulkhead installation.
I was always under the impression that bulkheads are installed with the rubber gasket on the outside portion of the bulkhead. (dry side)
I've read where so many people were installing them with silicone applied to the gasket and glass or they were installed with the gasket on the wet side, what's your take on this?

Also, have you decided on a return pump yet? Any experience with the PanWorld line? The description says that the internals are Iwaki like but quieter and consumes a little bit less watts.
 
Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve always installed my bulk heads with the gasket on the inside (wet). My current tank does not use any silicone on the bulk heads, but I plan to add a small silicone insurance factor when we assemble the new tank.

Pecan ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Å“ Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m not familiar with the PanWorld line of pumps. Thanks for the heads-up. I will definitely take a look at them. I had thought about a Gen-X or T4, but Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve heard the T4 especially adds 3-4Ã"šÃ‚° to the tank. Our ultimate plan is to get rid of powerheads and submerged pumps (with the exception of our EuroReef Sedra) as much as possible to minimize heat transfer. Thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s another reason I went with the Sequence low RPM pump for the closed loop. Have you ordered your OM 4-way yet? I sold my old 29g tank, hood, and stand last night so I have a little cash again.

-Doug
 
As far as what I consider the best bulkhead installation, take a look here and here.

I did not use the rubber gaskets. I use a special kind of silicone Dow corning 795 and cleaned first with isopropyl. It works great! Extremely strong.
 
The gasket should always go on the flange side of the bulkhead, not the nut side. It doesn't technically matter if this is on the wet or dry side (though typically on the wet side), this is simply the best surface for making a watertight seal.

If you put the gasket on the nut side, you have several potential leak points. The seal can bunch up when the nut is tightened, and you end up with a leak. Or, if the bulkhead threads aren't perfectly clean at the nut, you can get some water seeping through. All of this can be avoided by keeping the gasket on the flange side. This single catch point is the only water barrier you need.

Although many people use silicone and love it, I've seen pictures of rubber gaskets that became hard and brittle from exposure to the silicon (really the gases it gives off while curing). And I'm still not convinced that silicon makes an effective long-term bond with PVC. That simply doesn't inspire confidence for me. I'll stick with quality Sch80 bulkheads and no silicone on my tanks.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the bulkhead info guys.
Doug,
I'll probably order the OM sometime next week along with the pumps and Sea-Swirls. Just want to make sure the tank is in order when I pick it up this Sunday.

Leaning towards the PanWorld equivalent of the Iwaki 40 RLXT and a Dart.

Are you going to tee off one of the pumps for your Ca reactor?
 
If you read the links that I provided you will see that I was able to lift my whole tank (about 500 lbs) up with the seal from one sch 80 1.5 inch bulkhead. For me that is good enough holding pressure.
 
Pecan - We will Tee off our main return line to feed the Calcium Reactor. It's worked well in the past and gets rid of one more thing to plug in.

-Doug
 
Hi Doug,
I ended up ordering the OM last night. I decided on the ver 2 for now. As with the many discussions about the different versions, I went with what I think was applicable and additional drums can be ordered later on for $20 + $4 shipping.
Since I went ahead & ordered the OM, I also ordered (from different places) a Dart, Amp2100, two 3/4" Sea-Swirls and some mounting brackets, some colored starboard (think I want to give this a try vs my original shallow SB), various PVC pieces that my local Home Depot and Lowes do not have and a crap load of union bulkheads.
It's amazing how much plumbing adds up to. I picked up some stuff last night from the HD & Lowes, ordered more stuff online and it's at over $200 already and I know I'm still missing a ton of stuff including the spa-flex.
 
Which pump is going on the OM 4way again? The AM2100 may not be enough for the 4way, since all the extra piping will cut back on flow quite a bit.

Thats why I went with the 3000. Doing some rough estimates, I figure that I'm pushing right about 2000 GPH because off all the extra headpressure.
 
Hi Fursphere,
The AM2100 is for the returns and skimmer. I've been agonizing what to use for the return. Seems like any pump at about 1500 gph is going to be a amp sucking magnetic drive so I decided to try the AM2100 for that purpose. Just to not overpower the returns, I paid more for the AM2100 then Doug paid for his Hi Flow 1/8 hp SEQ4200. :(
The ReefFlo Dart will power the OM-4way.
 
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Pecan,

Well that was a fun $1000+ shopping excursion.

I started drawing up the schematic for the plumbing on the closed loop last night trying to think of every combination of isolating the tank, drains, returns, pumps, 4-Way, etc. It's not going to be cheap! From the two (2) drains to the pump will be in 2". Everything post pump will be in 1.5". I may push up to 2" between the pump output and OM just to minimize any losses at the Union.

Are you planning on the Dart for your Closed Loop and the Amp2100 for the return?

Did you order the Magnetic version of the OM 4-Way? I'm leaning towards Version 2 also.

I know a lot of people are going bare bottom with starboard. I'm just not a big fan of the look. I'm still thinking about a shallow 2-3" sand bed so the clams can hang out on the beach. It looks like I will be getting 10-50# bags of the Yard-Right Tropical Play sand. Not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it, but I'm sure I will figure it out.

Where are you getting your plumbing parts on-line. I've ordered from USPlastics a few times and had good service and price. CustomAquatic seems to have a lot of the parts I haven't found other places too.

-Doug
 
The Ampmaster is an "amp sucker" too. Don't be fooled by the misleading advertisement that Dolphin puts out.

Mines pulls about 1.85 amps constantly. Quite a bit higher than what they advertise. :rolleyes
 
Hi Doug,
A little over $1400 was the disaster vs. excursion. :D

I also tried to plan out all the isolation paths for the OM, pumps and tank. The amount of SE union ball valves is what is driving up the cost tremendously but I also just watched a fellow local reefer destroy all the fittings that he had on a recent purchase of a used starphire tank because the previous owner used slip bulkheads and ballvalves with no unions. I find that it is cheaper if you go with compact ball valves and individual unions but it just makes everything bigger and longer than it needs to be.

I bought common fittings from my local Home Depot & Lowes (HD only had slip ball valves & Lowes had only true union ones which I didn't think I needed plus they looked really bulky) and I ordered all my single union ball valves with other misc. fittings from:
http://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=1
and topped it off with some parts from Custom Aquatics. Like for instance on the back wall 1.5" drains, I originally bought a male threaded adapter and then a spigot x slip street el to complete a 90 degree slip fitting, then I find that Custom Aquatics has street el's that are MPT x slip, so I ordered those also to reduce the amount of plumbing parts and overall space that all these various fittings will take up.
LOL, by the time I'm done with adapters, valves, unions, I won't have any room for spa-flex!

The Dart is planned for the closed loop. The AM2100 is planned as the return for the two 3/4" Sea-Swirls and a tee off for the EV-120 for now.(I couldn't bear the thought of an additional 70 watt/2 degree pump in my sump) (I know this has to be upgraded, EV that is)
Right now the way I understand it, the Dart is a low pressure pump with high flow and the AM2100 is not a pressure rated pump but good for circulation.

I did order the magnetic 4-way as opposed to the standard, it just didn't pay to save $30 and have a drive shaft break from sand or debris whereas the magnetic version has no shaft to break. I chose ver 2 as opposed to ver 1 due to the limited overall size of my tank. Based on the 24" depth, I didn't want any corals to get a 2000 gph current thrust.

The bare bottom/starboard is something I'm willing to try. I've used a 4-5" plenum sand bed on a past softie tank and currently a very shallow 3/4" sand bed and the detritus is hard to keep up with. I also need to stir the shallow bed every few weeks or it starts to get stiff. Another factor in my decision was also the sand being stirred up and jamming the drum on the OM and the abuse on the direct drive pump seals.
 
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Hey Pecan,

Have you drawn up a plumbing schematic yet? I drafted one out this weekend and wanted to compare what you were planning.

-Doug
 
dougchambers said:
Hey Pecan,

Have you drawn up a plumbing schematic yet? I drafted one out this weekend and wanted to compare what you were planning.

-Doug

What application are you using to draft your plumbing diagrams? Just a standard drawing app? Or is there something more specialized that I'm not aware of?
I'm just curious what everyone uses for that purpose..

Thanks,
Tyler
 
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