New In-wall Project Begins

Doug,
I ended up ordering a new set of reflectors last night. I stuck with SE moguls with an open reflector because they have served me well.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=PF2635

If I were to go with pendants, it would have been the PFO mini-DE HQI pendants.
Well, this was the inexpensive way for now and I can either plug it into my existing PFO mag ballast or purchase a pair of Ice Caps somewhere down the road. I picked up a pair of adapters for the PFO wire ends to an IC ballast for this purpose.
Based on JBNY's MH bulb/ballast comparison and an actual visit to view his setup, I like the look, PAR and amp draw from the XM 10Ks with IC ballast. Even with the decreased factor of an electronic ballast, the XMs parred with the ICs still gave out 530 in PAR level, my standard mag PFO would have driven them at 600 PAR. Right now my (crappy) CoralVue 10Ks are running at 324 PAR.
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/lamps.cfm

The other thing that drew me to these PFO reflectors were the mounting area for my VHO actinics. Saved me a couple of brain cells in trying to figure out a one bulb reflector jerry rig on either side of a MH reflector
 
Fursphere...

I can show you pictures of the dirt where the house is going... We are waiting for permits. There was a $1500 premit cost increase as of Jan 1 so our permit request is sitting with 187 others that were submitted between X-mas and New Years eve.

I started drawing up the stand and stock tank last night and will drop a picture in the next day or so.

Pecan -
Rather than using a Tee, I'm thinking a 45Ã"šÃ‚° Wye would work better on the 2" drain. It would need another 45Ã"šÃ‚° piece, but would keep the flow a little more laminar.

40wye.jpg
 
Pecan,

I looked at those reflectors too. I'm leaning towards the pendants from CoralVue with the built in fans. That way I can leave the reflectors in our existing hood and get the new hanging pseudo hood built up before hand. I need to measure it up and make sure I have room for the VHO tubes.

Are building a full hood for your new system? We plan to have an open top vented hood/shell on a pulley system to allow multiple vertical positioning of the bulbs with good air flow.

-Doug
 
Opps,
I forgot that your doing an in wall project.
That being said, I would definitely go with hanging pendants. No need for a finished hood but I see your position for a hood/shell to house your VHO reflectors.
Have you thought about those Aqua Space Lights or the Maristars on a hanging cable pulley system? The're nice but awfully expensive.

I'm just retrofitting a pre-made oak canopy that I bought with the tank from Glass Cages.
 
dougchambers said:
Started looking for a return pump. The PanWorld and BlueLine pumps look pretty good. I like the PW50PX-X 1110gpm 90W pump ($139.90) and the PW100PX-X 1270gpm 130W pump (164.90). I need to do some more research on quality and performance for these pumps.

Another option is the Gen-X series. The MAK4 @ 1190gpm should be adequate at ~$129. Again, we need to do some more research.

I've heard a lot of good things about the Titanium T4 series pumps also. Supposed to be very quiet, but known to add ~3-4Ã"šÃ‚° to the tank. I like the size, but not the heat loading so we may stay away from the T4.

Any others we should be considering? I know Pecan ordered an Ampmaster...

-Doug
Click to expand...

What about the new Gen-X PCX-55? Its pressure rated, pumps around 1000 gph @ 5 ft. I've been hearing some good things about these in the MRC club thread. I'm thinking I'll buy 1 of these for my skimmer and another for the return. Supposed to be quiter than other Gen-X pumps, the Iwaki, and PanWorld clone...and no heat problems.

BTW, If you're set on a T4 I've got one NIB I may be looking to get rid of (to get the Gen-X).

On another note, Isn't it insane all the plumbing parts required to get this stuff wired together? I've got 12 holes in my tank and I am doing 2 closed loops (OM HD 4-way and a OM squirt). Do the math for all the bulkheads, union valves, etc. and It's probably the #2 expense in the entire setup (no small accomplishment there)!

- Jason
 
Jason,

The new PCX-55 looks good. Haven't seen a lot of information on it, but the few threads there are all seem to like the pump.

We started drafting up the stand and sump area. It looks like the 85g Tuff Stuff stock tank will fit the best. The 2" plumbing hangs down a ton unless I find a 2" Single Union Valve.

Here is the stack up for the 100g Rubbermaid Stock tank;
100g_drain_package.jpg


The 85g tank sticks out further in the front, but will give us more clearance for the skimmer and lighting for the refugium. Ultimately, we may create a gravity drain refugium, but to start the sump and refugium will be together.

85g_drain_package.jpg
 
Jason - I looked at the T4 and it has a great reputation for being quiet. Unfortunately, I hear it adds 3-4Ã"šÃ‚° to the system. We are trying to get a way from our chiller dependancy and will be pulling all the powerheads and submersible pumps out of the water that we can. I'm leaning towards the BlueLine or Gen-X pump for return.

We ordered the Oceans Motions 4-way last night. Should have tracking information today.

-Doug
 
You're in the same boat as I am. I need a quiet pump that doesn't add heat...If I use the T4 I may have to yank it if it causes me temp problems.

The HD 4-way is a beast. Its bigger in person than it appears in pictures. I hope to have mine plumbed in a week or so when all my union valves from savko come in.

Make sure you get Paul to include the 2"-1.5" adater for the pump connection...you can't always find those at HD/Lowe's.

- Jason
 
Doug,
It's the 2" ID that you would order. Slip fitting's ID is larger than 2" to accomodate the OD of hard or flex piping.
 
Just for a sanity check, I found a local glass shop that gets Starphire. I built a basic cut sheet to see what kind of pricing they would have, but there is a lot of risk in building or own tank. If it fails, I don't have anyone else to blame...
 
The glass shop was pretty much a bust. They couldn't get the thicknesses or drill the right size holes. It was worth checking...

After working on the plumbing plan, we found some interference between the drains and returns in the bottom of the tank. I also re-optimized the layout of the holes to maximize spacing of the web between the holes.

We finally meet with the builder for the construction meeting next week so we need to lock down the final dimensions. If all goes well, we should be ready to go. Finally...

Here's the latest concept;
120G_CONCEPT05.jpg
 
dougchambers said:

Here's the latest concept;
120G_CONCEPT05.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi Doug,

Nice looking design; it looks like you did that in Autocad?

Perhaps it was mentioned previously; but what style drains are you planning for in your overflow?

I'm working on a similar tank design and have found that the durso standpipes are quite awkward to fit in the overflow (I chose 2 1.5" durso style drains for redundancy).

Thanks,
Tyler
 
Tyler,

In the current design, we plan to use two 1.25" or 1.5" Durso drains and a single 1.5" return. We can always bring more return over the edge if we need to.

I made sure the people quoting the tank know we are going with a Durso and they said they would account for the size in the design. I will pickup up some parts at HD this weekend just to make sure it will all fit. As I look at it now, I'm sure I can get the Durso drains in, but I'm not sure I can get the return out.

-Doug
 
dougchambers said:
Tyler,

In the current design, we plan to use two 1.25" or 1.5" Durso drains and a single 1.5" return. We can always bring more return over the edge if we need to.

I made sure the people quoting the tank know we are going with a Durso and they said they would account for the size in the design. I will pickup up some parts at HD this weekend just to make sure it will all fit. As I look at it now, I'm sure I can get the Durso drains in, but I'm not sure I can get the return out.

-Doug
Click to expand...

Doug,

Okay, was just curious.. I figured you'd likely have accounted for it. :)

I'm going to have to pick up the parts to build a couple dursos from the local plumbing shop and build a cardboard overflow prototype of my overflow.

I only wish I had the space to have my tank away from the wall so I could just have my returns run up the back of the tank. Oh well.

Thanks,
Tyler
 
Doug,
I had GC also place my overflow with dual 1.5" drains in the back center.
Originally they spec'd out the box as 10"x6", I called them back to make sure that I would be able to install Durso standpipes within the box. They told me they would have to extend the box.
It roughly came in at about 14"x7" and I have placed both 1.5" Dursos in at an angle. I originally considered reducing the standpipes to 1.25" based on Richard Durso's information that 1.5" standpipes were not needed and can actually cause slurping if you do not have the immense flow, but afterwards, I just went with the 1.5" pipes. (have not wet tested anything yet, still plumbing)
When I get home tonight, I'll measure how much room is left over so you & tgunn can plan accordingly. Also realize that the hole placement will also make all the difference. You will also have to take into consideration that my box is rectangular vs your trapezoid design.
 
I did a scale drawing of my overflow measuring 14" x 7" internally; here's the diagram I came up with:

aquarium_top_view_with_bulkheads.sized.png


As pecan2phat said, the Dursos are oriented at an angle, leaving room for 4 1" returns. I may end up changing the two top 1" returns into a 1.5" return.

For reference, I used measurements for Spears Schedule 80 bulkheads; the dashed line in the bulkhead graphic (more visible in the larger version of my diagram at this location) is the hole drilled to support the schedule 80 bulkhead.

My mockups of dursos are made using specs on Schedule 40 PVC fittings found on Spears Mfg.'s website.

The gory details of the spacing between the holes for my layout:
aquarium_overflow_details.png


Thanks for checking into it more Pecan!

Tyler
 
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