New In-wall Project Begins

I took a few pictures in the rain when we picked it up, but didn't pull the sides off the crate so there wasn't much to see.

The house is on schedule for June 8th so we hope to drop the tank in place the 9th once we get the painting done in the room. By the 10th we should be running a full wet test with tap water to make sure everything is sealed up. Ultimately, we hope to move over the weekend while the tank is wet-testing and start loading RO/DI early the week of the 13th and transfer the old tank over on the following weekend.

I'll pick through the pictures I took and see if there is anything worth posting. Too much to do and not enough time!

-Doug
 
Hi Doug,

I'm new to this thread ! Congrats on the planning !!

Only had a few questions, that might seem stupid, but can't seem to figure it out with your plans:

1) I understand there will be 2 x 2" drains at the bottom of the tank
with 2 x 1.5" returns at the bottom of the tank. The thing I can't figure out, is where are the other 2 returns of 1.5" (from the 4-way OM) are they going to go ?

2) In your external overflow box, you have 3 x 1.5" holes. Can you explain what 3 of them are going to serve. I think I figured out that you will have 2 x 1.5" drains for the sump and 1 x 1.5" return from the sump.

Thanks in advance ! :)
Ginzo :)
 
Ginzo - Welcome to Reef Central!

1) I understand there will be 2 x 2" drains at the bottom of the tank
with 2 x 1.5" returns at the bottom of the tank. The thing I can't figure out, is where are the other 2 returns of 1.5" (from the 4-way OM) are they going to go ?
The other two (2) OM-4 returns will come in from over the top of the tank. I have some black 1.5" PVC 45Ã"šÃ‚° and 90Ã"šÃ‚° hardware that will extend into the tank near the front.
2) In your external overflow box, you have 3 x 1.5" holes. Can you explain what 3 of them are going to serve. I think I figured out that you will have 2 x 1.5" drains for the sump and 1 x 1.5" return from the sump.
You guessed correctly... Depending on the flow, we will run with one or two Durso's to the sump. We may use one for a feed to the refugium and the second one as a main drain or use a single Durso and have the other as an emergency overflow. The third line will be for a return from the sump. Right now the return will be with more of the 1.5" black PVC over the top of the tank. Ideally, I would like to route the sump return through a pair of SeaSwirls on the eurobrace, but I didn't have it drilled before hand.

If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. We are 30 days out and counting down...
 
Thanks Doug !

Very nice of responding so shortly !

I'm planning of getting a similar setup, with an external overflow just like yours.

Only other question, is why the external overflow doesn't go down the higth of the tank. Meaning, if the tank is 25" high, why did you make the overflow shorter ? I'm thinking of getting the overflow the same higth of the tank and my stand will be constructed to support the overflow like the rest of the tank.

Also, wondering what higth in the tank, will be your 2 x 2" drains for the closed-loop. Being thinking about it for some time, wouldn't you be scared that some sand will be sucked in ? Will the drains before covered by live rock ? What sort of setup are you considering to cover them ? Also, the same kind of question for the 2 x 1.5" returns at the bottom. Will they be visible ?

Thanks again ! :)
 
Reason for them not going all the way down is so there is NO stress on the overflow box except from the water. No reason to have them go all the way, my 280 is just like this.
 
Umm..not sure to understand.

If the Overflow box was the same high as the tank (25") and the stand has configured to support the overflow box the same way as the rest of the tank, wouldn't there be a lot less stress then having it hang of the tank without any support underneath ? :confused:
 
Ginzo -

The returns will be ~8-12" off the bottom of the tank with a screen like this;

PF-FL1800-20.jpg


We plan to have rock cover the drains and returns. All of the plumbing inside the tank will be black like the back of the tank so it won't be very easy to see between the gaps in the rock. Sucking in sand is a big concern due to the magnetic coupling on the OM 4-way, but we will take it slow and let things settle a bit before firing up the closed loop. We need a LOT more rock to cover things up like we want.

Like NOLACLS, we talked to the tank builder about having the overflow run to the bottom of the tank. In the long run, I think it will create less stress on the interface between the overflow and the main tank. The main tank could settle at a different rate than the overflow due to the weight differences. The difference would create a shear between the two. This design has the overflow attached with a couple of inches clearance and allows for easy access to the overflow bulkheads.

Pyro Target sells thoses bike pulley lift for $29. Quicker than building it yourself.
Thanks for the heads up on Target. I was going to go down and buy the pulleys this weekend. I'll hit Target first.

Anyone have thoughts on more rock? I will be pulling all of our live rock out of the 75g and have been considering ordering some dead rock for base. I want some pretty open very porous rock.
 
Hi Doug,

Thanks for the response once again ! :D

I'm not quite sure what kind of stress you are talking about ?

Wouldn't it be less stressfull if the overflow was supported by the stand ? Is your overflow in glass or acrylic, in your plans it seems to be made of 1/2" glass.

If the 2 x 1.5" returns from the 4-OM are covered by rock..wouldn't this degrade the flow ?

Hope I don't sound to negative, just trying to understand from the experts ! :p
 
Ginzo,

You aren't being negative. I started this thread to be informative and learn as much from others along the way.

The overflow is built from 1/2" glass and siliconed to the back of the tank. A sheer (or sliding) stress will already be present just by the nature of having the overflow hang off the back of the tank. Given the relatively small total surface area and volume of water, we shouldn't have any problems holding the overflow on the tank. Technically a supported stand under the overflow and tank should work just fine. We just chose to move it up a bit to minimize any interaction between the overflow and the main tank at the stand interface.

We will stack rock around the returns in the bottom of the tank to allow for good flow. The 1.5" returns will come through the bottom of the tank and split in to a TEE with 45Ã"šÃ‚° and 90Ã"šÃ‚° fittings to allow us to move the return flows around.

-Doug
 
Hey Doug,

That seems like a great plan ! :)

I'm from Canada and I'm looking at getting my tank done by either AquariumObsessed or Miracles Aquarium.

Any reason why you went for Miracles ?

Is it to private to ask you how much you paid for the tank from Miracles, without shipping ?

I'm looking at getting the same setup, but with the following dimensions: 49 1/2" x 22" x 25"

Thanks !
 
Ginzo,

I talked to both Will (Obsessed) and Derek (Miracles) about our design a number of times. They both seemed more than capable. Ultimately, I went with Miracles and have been very happy with the service and end product.

Realize if you go with some really strange dimensions, you could incur more scrap rate so be sure to have clean quotes for what you are looking at. The drawing I provided Miracles is EXACTLY what I received. The dimensions and numbers are dead on.

I'll shoot you a PM with some other details,

-Doug
 
Slight change in plans on the refugium/sump configuration. In looking at the 30g stock tank we had for the stock tank, it wouldn't leave us much water depth once we added a DSB to it. I also didn't like having to build a stand in the main sump to hold the smaller stock tank up.

Tonight I stopped off and picked up a 54g round stock tank that will fit nicely into the 110g oval sump. The shape tucks into the end of the sump and won't require a support to hold it off the bottom. It's a little bigger than I wanted, but should work well enough. The kicker will be once we start our wet testing and see how much drain off we have from the main tank during power outage conditions. Once we figure out the power on/off differential in the sump, we will mount a Kent float in the sump to keep us topped off. I'd like to find a solenoid to put on a timer in order to create a better interlock to minimize our exposure to flooding.

Here is the new refugium;
circutub.GIF
 
Anyone have thoughts on HiRocks or Reefer Rocks? The price point from HiRocks is definitely better, but the Reefer Rocks look more open and porous. Of course we will be supplementing the base rock with some of our live rock, but it would be nice to get some base going too.

Thoughts?
 
Nice setup! Just read through all 11 pages.

I'm planning my next setup right now and it will have to be a custom build due to the dimensions I'm looking at - either 42 x 24 x 18 or 48 x 30 x 18 (or maybe somewhere in between). Shipping is probably going to kill me unless I get it made locally, but I'm highly impressed by Miracles Aquariums workmanship. However, I'm not wild about the trim on the top. Could you have gotten it without the trim? I'm much fonder of trimless tanks, especially if you have eurobracing.

As far as live rock, check out Ocean Pro Aquatics, they receive massive amounts of LR daily direct from Walt Smith into their warehouse in LA. Great prices, good variety and they've been getting good feedback here on RC! You can get 66# of base Fiji for $90 + shipping. They also have Fiji Premium, Kaelini, Buna, Marshall, Tonga and rubble in various sizes. They prefer air freight as well - which is definitely more cost effective. Whenever I finally save up enough money and make it out of the planning stage, OPA is who I'll go with. Check them out!

www.oceanproaquatics.com
 
ReeferMonkey said:
Nice setup! Just read through all 11 pages.

I'm planning my next setup right now and it will have to be a custom build due to the dimensions I'm looking at - either 42 x 24 x 18 or 48 x 30 x 18 (or maybe somewhere in between). Shipping is probably going to kill me unless I get it made locally, but I'm highly impressed by Miracles Aquariums workmanship. However, I'm not wild about the trim on the top. Could you have gotten it without the trim? I'm much fonder of trimless tanks, especially if you have eurobracing.
Thanks ReeferMonkey - The shipping is a killer. Ours ran right at $575 from Canada to Idaho. When I was shopping, even domestic shipping from GlassCages was nearly $400.

I agree on the trim for euro-braced tanks. I checked with Miracles and they said it was cosmetic and easily removed. I'll leave it there until we get ready to slide the tank into the wall on the 9th.

ReeferMonkey said:

As far as live rock, check out Ocean Pro Aquatics, they receive massive amounts of LR daily direct from Walt Smith into their warehouse in LA. Great prices, good variety and they've been getting good feedback here on RC! You can get 66# of base Fiji for $90 + shipping. They also have Fiji Premium, Kaelini, Buna, Marshall, Tonga and rubble in various sizes. They prefer air freight as well - which is definitely more cost effective. Whenever I finally save up enough money and make it out of the planning stage, OPA is who I'll go with. Check them out!
Thanks for the lead on OPA. I will check them out. I have 70-80# of Marshall Island coming in Wednesday and will save my water change from tonight to start curing it out.

As a general update, the house is nearly complete. We were just there and they were tearing out the railing and ballisters leading up the stairs because they didn't like the finish work on them. First class builders from our experience.

The plan is to close on the morning of Wednesday the 8th and immediately primer, texture, and paint the reef room. We already have it rocked in green-board and finish taped. Thursday night, my team is headed over after they get off work to help lift the tank into place. If my calculations are correct, we are looking at about 346lbs for the tank and overflow. The trick will be lifting it off the pallet, rolling it 90Ã"šÃ‚° to get it through the door, rolling it back up, and then lifting it to a stand height of ~45".

Once in the wall Thursday, we will spend the rest of the evening plumbing so the glue can set overnight. Friday we plan to load the tank with tap water and start wet testing everything while I work on the garage and move more of the house over. If everything goes as planned, we will load the sand, saltwater, and new rock on Sunday or Monday. Then we will move the existing tank inhabitants over Thursday or Friday (16th or 17th).

We will take pictures as we go. Should be entertaining...

-Doug
 
Doug, make sure you get lots of pics of the tank being put in. And lets have some pics of the house and fish room!
 
I got my 280 from them with no trim on the top euro but got it on the bottom for help in moving it. I may or may not take it off. It will be covered by the stand so im not worried. Shipping for mine was 575 as well I think. But after pricing anything local...the tank from Canada with the shipping was LESS than any local #'s I saw. Also I got more things with my tank than I could have gotten locally...like starphire and external overflows. Also remember this...you dont pay sales tax on it...you go to a local shop and you might have to cough up a little more cash for tax.
 
Rock is on order... We should have ~70# of Marshall Island later today. I'll post pictures once we get everything broken and washed up. We did a water change last night and picked up a new trash can so we can start cooking the rock for a couple of weeks before the tank is ready.

I hope it looks good...

-Doug
 
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