New Life Spectrum Ick Shield
- Thread starter jschultzbass
- Start date
Following. Added Ick Shield powder yesterday. Had removed as many snails as I could and all the coral except about 5 Palys on a big rock and a few yellow polyps. Same concerns as others - absorption by rock and sand and breakdown by UV. Latter is easy. Glass is 3/4 and will cut all UV and I can program my Radions to use only green and red for a while. Butt ugly but ok. The absorption is another story. I'm going to boost the dosage at one week and two weeks and see how it goes.
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
CP will work for flukes so I would assume it works with other worms... CP works for many other things than just ich and velvet but is only advertised for those two. The owner of NLS told me the same thing
The stuff decimated my bristleworm population so it will kill worms
Just spoke with Jeff (I think) from NLS:
* To remove you can just put on UV which breaks the IS down.
* Carbon also removes treatment so must take carbon etc. off line.
* Does not "stick" to rock or sand. (Confirms what grandpa10 was told as well. +1)
* Does not kill encysted organisms.
* Protein skimmers DO remove the chemical - it is an polar molecule so attaches to an air water interface - and thus skimmers must be taken off line.
* In QT 21 days is considered sufficient as you start with a clean tank with IS in the water there should not be any encysted organisms and it kills the free swimming stage.
* To remove you can just put on UV which breaks the IS down.
* Carbon also removes treatment so must take carbon etc. off line.
* Does not "stick" to rock or sand. (Confirms what grandpa10 was told as well. +1)
* Does not kill encysted organisms.
* Protein skimmers DO remove the chemical - it is an polar molecule so attaches to an air water interface - and thus skimmers must be taken off line.
* In QT 21 days is considered sufficient as you start with a clean tank with IS in the water there should not be any encysted organisms and it kills the free swimming stage.
Mishri
Active member
I'm curious, with CP, if you run it for say, 14 days, then transfer the fish to a new tank, wouldn't it be clear because all of the trophonts would have fallen off within 7 days and CP killed any that hatch. I'd think even 8 days would be good enough in most cases.
so, if you were transferring to a new tank, then you'd just have an un-medicated tank for observation, cutting the duration time way down (Especially helpful for fish reacting poorly to treatment)
so, if you were transferring to a new tank, then you'd just have an un-medicated tank for observation, cutting the duration time way down (Especially helpful for fish reacting poorly to treatment)
Deinonych
New member
Perhaps, but if you are going to treat for 14 days and transfer the fish, why not just run the fish through TTM and be assured the parasite has been eradicated?
Darrell Brady
New member
have you noticed any ick dropping off yet? I just turn my radions off an just used room lights.
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
Thick accent? The not absorbing in rock makes sense since it didn't hurt anything invert wise in my 220g
Mishri
Active member
because TTM involves more moves (more stress) more work, more expense(salt). and you are only 99.999% sure it's eradicated
I just think people are too obsessed with TTM on this forum. There are other solutions... plus I was thinking 8 days could do it.
Deinonych
New member
Not obsessed, we just like to advocate protocols that are effective. TTM is not stressful and not that much work once you do it a couple of times.
I think you'll find the regulars in this forum embrace multiple treatment protocols, provided they are supported by evidence. CP, copper and hypo all fall into this category.
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
+1 TTM and CP are the only two I use. Some fish you would be foolish to attempt to use anything but TTM on
Mishri
Active member
Yep, would certainly agree with that. I have limited experience with saltwater fish disease (somehow always got lucky-plus good LFS) . But so far I think CP is an excellent solution. And would only do TTM if the fish might not survive CP.. which is a bit backwards from what people on here typically recommend. I'm amazed that people claim TTM isn't stressful. Anytime you catch a fish it is stressful for them. Now if you are talking about stress compared to copper or some medications, yeah not that bad.
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Deinonych
New member
I always see "stress" as an objection to doing TTM, and it's really not a factor. It may cause some short-term (acute) stress during the actual transfer process, but if you do it properly you shouldn't have to chase the fish around the tank. I lower the water level in the QT to just a few inches and scoop them right up. Never have to chase them around. And, since transfers are typically done in the mornings before lights on, the fish aren't alert and they are easy to catch. I just ran a Kole Tang (typically a very shy fish that stresses easily) through full QT including TTM and he wasn't bothered by the process one bit.
I look at it this way: better a few instances of acute stress than chronic stress exposed to harsh chemicals like copper or (even worse) diseases. But hey, if you prefer other methods to TTM, more power to you.
Darrell Brady
New member
got home from work today flame wrasse is missing hope he is just hiding. makes me wonder if I should stop treatment at 21 days. he was eating fine yesterday. everything else looks fine though. man if anybody could come up with a reef safe cure for ick that was 100% they would be a millionaire.
Deinonych
New member
What is TTM?
TTM = Tank Transfer Method
More info here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
