NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

I booked marked this post when it first came out and have read over the info several times. I just moved into a new house and of course found this a excellent opportunity to replumb both of my tanks. I decided to try this new overflow method on my 120 Starphire tank, I wanted to put a Ampmaster 3000 on this tank.

This tank is 4x2.5x2.5 with a single overflow box centered on the back. Two 1" drains and two 3/4" returns. I reversed the bulkheads on the returns and now have 4 drains. I setup the ampmaster to split and return at each side of the tank with 1 1/2" PVC the entire way. The ampmaster is of course much to strong to be run wide open so it has a valve to throttle back.

I put the tank on a wall that has a full length mirror 7' x 8' The reason I mention this will be clear in a minute.

After running the tank for a couple weeks with this New overflow method I pulled them and put durso's back in. Here's why.

First, they do suck air in, any drain has to suck air in, Basic physics, it caused a lot of gurgling, So much that I actually turned off the pump at night and had just a couple powerheads running in the tank so I could sleep. They were that loud! I tried changing the distance the water would drop into the overflow before going down the drain, slowing down the ampmaster to the point it was only running aprox 1000 gallons an hour. Nothing worked.

Second, The water flow splashing and gurgling in the overflow box created so much spray that my mirror behind the tank required me to clean and wipe it down daily, almost twice daily. This was not acceptable.

Third, this overflow method did not silence the sump, Neither does the durso, Sump noise can be silenced in other ways, one was mentioned above. But I did notice that with the durso and those Little air holes that you can actually create a syphon effect and push more water down the drain than normal.

With the durso I have had very little splashing on to my mirror, I've only wiped it down once over the past week. To reduce the water noise in the sump I raised the water level on one end so the overflow pipes sit under water, causes more bubbles in the sump but almost eliminates the sump noise. There are plenty of ways to eliminate bubbles in the sump.

I now have the ampmaster pushing aprox 2300 gallons per hour and I can sleep at night.


My conclusion, While this method of overflow while does work and could be quiet under some conditions is not a Fix All.



John
 
Aquaman,

I have to respectfully disagree based on actual experience. First you have to set the intake drain about half way down the overflow box. Then, using the gate valve, you restrict the flow through the drain to adjust the water level in the overflow so the intake is covered by 8" or more of water (I set mine right to the bottom of the teeth). If you do this, there is no air in the drain line. I am running 2000 gal/hr through this system without a single bubble entering the system, and it is totally silent. It is not basic Physics that a drain requires air. I did have some air entering the system when I first set it up, but it turned out to be air being sucked in through a joint in the plumbing that was not completely sealed. Also, you can get a few air bubbles if the water falls too far inside the overflow. Maybe that is what you experienced. Anyway I would try tweaking the system again because done correctly it really does work.

Thanks again to Herbie for the great idea.
 
I am wondering how this method can suck in air, when the top of the drain pipe is several inches below water level. I have not run it myself yet but as long as the top of the drain pipe is well below water level, I can't see how there can be any air sucked in. And as long as the water level in the overflow chamber is only a few inches below the top of the overflow, there shouldn't be any noise from that either.
 
Aquaman,

Kruussell is right. All you need to do is fine tune yours so the water in overflow is 1" below teeth and your drain pipe is covered by a couple inches of water.

Air is not needed in a drain to make it go down. It is a complete siphon. The drain pipe needs to be completely full at all times with no air, that is why it is silent. If you have ever siphoned a fluid from a higher source to lower, you will understand that no air is needed in the line.

If set correctly your overflow and sump should be completely silent using this setup. I am using the Dolphin 2700 wide open and mine is dead quiet and without one bubble.
 
Hey Herbie

I really want to try your idea.

Can you post the parts you use

Recommended size

Cost

Where the parts can be found

And since you quite your overflow, how did you make your sump quite too? What technique did you use to eliminate bubbles and quite the water flow?
 
recently fooled a bit more with my set-up and getting better and better. I left my durso up, and left the tee with air hole (sump durso) set up, but then added a ball valve going down to the sump. It restricted the water just enough so it slows the water down and doesn't splash when it hits the bottom any longer. I had placed a couple inches of plastic tubing from the tank to the ball valve, so I can watch the water. and air is still entering the pipe, however the velocity of the water is slowed tremendously and the air is churning in the pipe instead of the sump. Hard to explain, but very little noise
 
Digging this one back up... I just set my tank up with the two drains and external return as outlined in this thread. It has nearly eliminated all my noise and micro-bubbles. Anyone else still running there tank this way? Seems like a pretty good solution for us 58-65'ers with small sumps.
 
I want to make one too but the screen can not be found. Where can I buy all the parts needed. HD has the PVC but where do I get the clear screen???
 
GoTRiCe19 said:
I want to make one too but the screen can not be found. Where can I buy all the parts needed. HD has the PVC but where do I get the clear screen???

I too am looking for this. At this point, I have an acrylic cap on my overflow with air holes. It serves two purposes. 1.) keep out snails. 2.) stop algae growth. ( it is not transparent ).

I've been running with this cap for about 4 months with no snails, and very little if any algae.

My pipes are open. Here are pics for those interested. Please pardon the rats nest of wire that is my next project.

http://www.skvarcius.com/gallery/album11
 
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kskvarci, the acrylic lids probably silence the overflows but do you think potentially they could cause tank a tank overflow say if the the "teeth"were to clog or the flow to increase to a point where the water level would try to rise over the top of the overflow but then be prevented from going down since the acrylic could block it? Just playing devils advocate. I know on my last set-up if i turned up the pump too high the water level would rise above the teeth anf then flow down into the overflow. Looks like a good idea thought if it works.
 
in2deep said:
kskvarci, the acrylic lids probably silence the overflows but do you think potentially they could cause tank a tank overflow say if the the "teeth"were to clog or the flow to increase to a point where the water level would try to rise over the top of the overflow but then be prevented from going down since the acrylic could block it? Just playing devils advocate. I know on my last set-up if i turned up the pump too high the water level would rise above the teeth anf then flow down into the overflow. Looks like a good idea thought if it works.

Its possible.. The cap isnt exactly tight fitting however. It would probably float off if the water got that high. If it was a major concern, some foam on top or bottom would ensure that it floated off.
 
For the screen, I used black plastic gutter guard that comes in a roll. I cut a piece about 4" long, rolled it into a cone shape, and zip tied it to the top of the pipe. I also used a second zip tie on the top of the cone shape to keep it closed. Works great.
 
On Herbie's sump return pipes there are a couple rt angles. Does this aid in the quiet/turbulance aspect or can I just go straight into the sump with the gate valve? Thanks.
 
I would guess that you could go straight in if you want. Only drawback I can think of is that you may have to back down the gate /ball valve more if you do it that way. Angles are a good way to slow dow the flow without obstructing the path of the water.
 
You're probably right. There just isn't much space under a 58. I'll try it straight first and see what happens. Thanks kskvarci.
 
Well I just did a plumbing test on my new 120 gallon reef-ready. With Dursos the overflows are quiet (not silent) but the sump is terribly loud. I could make the "T" mod but I know this will just muffle the sound but not eliminate it. So I bought all the parts today for Herbie's Silent Overflow System, will get it running in the next couple of days.:rollface:
 
I Have been having the same overflow/ sump problems as everyone else. I have a 75 gal RR that has been up and running for about 2 months. I started with a stockman standpipe, which worked well in the overflow box, however I had a lot of noise and bubbles in the sump.

I have been follwing this thread and decided to give it a try. I could not be happier with this setup. I have a 1 inch stand pipe cut so it comes up to about 10 inches in the overflow box and then I have a ball valve attached to some 1" flex tubing into my sump. The 3/4" bulkhead is used as a backup (emergency) drain.

It is completly silent and no more bubles. Now all I hear is my Mag 7 and Euroreef skimmer.

Thanks for the idea.

Eric
 
I reached the same result by adding a 1" soft tube gravity siphon from my overflow box into the sump. I already had 2 x 1" downs hard plumbed (the noise makers). If the siphon ever breaks these suckers will take over. No noise and very little bubbles. Very simple.
 
EricG said:
I Have been having the same overflow/ sump problems as everyone else. I have a 75 gal RR that has been up and running for about 2 months. I started with a stockman standpipe, which worked well in the overflow box, however I had a lot of noise and bubbles in the sump.

I have been follwing this thread and decided to give it a try. I could not be happier with this setup. I have a 1 inch stand pipe cut so it comes up to about 10 inches in the overflow box and then I have a ball valve attached to some 1" flex tubing into my sump. The 3/4" bulkhead is used as a backup (emergency) drain.

It is completly silent and no more bubles. Now all I hear is my Mag 7 and Euroreef skimmer.

Thanks for the idea.

Eric



Can you post the parts you bought. And where you got it from? Thanks. I been wanting to make one for about 2 weeks but can't find the parts.
 
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