trilinearmipmap
New member
I made 2 perforated standpipes from pvc pipe, one I sawed 2/3 way through every 1/4" or so, the other one I drilled with about 200 holes, I think the one with holes is better because it is less likely to block.
NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
reef_enthusiast
Member
Hi everyone,
I believe marine depot carries the perforated stand pipes you guys are looking for.
Marine Depot Screens/Overflow Strainers
Just scroll down past the bulkheads and overflow strainers. The items I'm talking about is about the 6th category on the page under the heading SCREENS/OVERFLOW STRAINERS. They come in 3/4", 1", & 1.5". They offer either 3.5" or 6.5" lengths and prices are not bad on them either.
Unfortunately for me they don't make 2" versions of these
Hope that helps...
Joe
I believe marine depot carries the perforated stand pipes you guys are looking for.
Marine Depot Screens/Overflow Strainers
Just scroll down past the bulkheads and overflow strainers. The items I'm talking about is about the 6th category on the page under the heading SCREENS/OVERFLOW STRAINERS. They come in 3/4", 1", & 1.5". They offer either 3.5" or 6.5" lengths and prices are not bad on them either.
Unfortunately for me they don't make 2" versions of these
Hope that helps...
Joe
reef_enthusiast
Member
8mpg
New member
I cant seem to get my gate valves to match my pump...Im gonna go crazy. Im waiting on my back up float switches to arrive. These will be my back since I dont have a backup drain. Im putting in a switch that will shut off the pump if the water level gets too high in the main tank and one in the sump of the water gets too low in the return area...
Greg Hiller
New member
After reading through this I understand (I think) how it all works, and it makes great sense...thanks Herbie. Question is...suppose you have TWO overflows on a large +400 gallon system. It might be a bit tricky? balancing the flows and still keeping everything full of water?
ninjafish
New member
I know that this is an older thread but I just wanted to write and thank Herbie for his great info. It is past midnight and I have been fiddling with my Durso for a couple hours, wondering why my sump was boiling and splashing. I can't wait to impliment this design - silent, simplified, and safe. Thanks!
- Chad
- Chad
Qdoggie
New member
With my ampmaster 2100 w/4 outlets and eductors, the sump silencer does its job well. I use all 4 as returns and have a check valve coming from the pump. I had to adjust to a 3" T in the sump to accomodate all the flow from the returns, as sandman suggested. I drilled a hole in the cap. It goes into a section with liverock to help dispersing the bubbles. Did wonders...
Beenalongtime79
New member
I've been using a similar setup for quite awhile. I don't have the backup standpipe, but from what I understand. A durso can still handle more waterflow due to it's ability to create a suction of sorts....
The system is good in that there are NO bubbles injected into your sump. Although on my overflow box, it is a bit more difficult to reach the perfect balance because I don't have as much height to play with... we're talking like 1 to 2" of up and down, but once you've got it set, then it's good to go and then you just clean the overflow teeth or the J tube in my case, and you are set again.
However, on my new system I will be utilizing durso standpipes because it is possible to get a quiet setup with it, although it is not as quiet as the one described in this thread. Plus a durso standpipe can drain more water I believe due to the semi-siphon action due to restricted air input.
Please correct me if I'm wrong...
Peace,
John H.
The system is good in that there are NO bubbles injected into your sump. Although on my overflow box, it is a bit more difficult to reach the perfect balance because I don't have as much height to play with... we're talking like 1 to 2" of up and down, but once you've got it set, then it's good to go and then you just clean the overflow teeth or the J tube in my case, and you are set again.
However, on my new system I will be utilizing durso standpipes because it is possible to get a quiet setup with it, although it is not as quiet as the one described in this thread. Plus a durso standpipe can drain more water I believe due to the semi-siphon action due to restricted air input.
Please correct me if I'm wrong...
Peace,
John H.
Rip Current
Member
so do you get a total siphon with a durso? the way Im doing it gets about 800- 930 gph out of a 1" line no bubbles or sound
Beenalongtime79
New member
Rip current,
That's good to hear! Thanks for the update. How do you know that you are getting that kind of flow though? Hey Rip current, I don't think it is possible to get a total siphon from a durso because you are letting a little air in so that you won't create that complete siphon effect.
Normally a 1" PVC pipe would not be able to handle that amount of flow just using a gravity drain, but with a siphon, you can squeeze a little more out of the tube.
Peace,
John H.
Peace,
John H.
That's good to hear! Thanks for the update. How do you know that you are getting that kind of flow though? Hey Rip current, I don't think it is possible to get a total siphon from a durso because you are letting a little air in so that you won't create that complete siphon effect.
Normally a 1" PVC pipe would not be able to handle that amount of flow just using a gravity drain, but with a siphon, you can squeeze a little more out of the tube.
Peace,
John H.
Peace,
John H.
Beenalongtime79
New member
Hey ripcurrent,
I'm looking at your current tank specs and they seem to be very impressive, do you mean that you have tunze stream wavebox or do you just have surge towers and a tunze stream?
Peace,
John H.
I'm looking at your current tank specs and they seem to be very impressive, do you mean that you have tunze stream wavebox or do you just have surge towers and a tunze stream?
Peace,
John H.
freedomverse
New member
Bye bye bubbles
Bye bye bubbles
Thank you for a great idea! I just tried it and bye bye bubbles! I have been pulling my hair out trying different things for the last two weeks.
The gate valve allows me to adjust the level in my overflow box very precisely so that no air gets pulled into the drain. I have only a few large bubbles coming into the sump that are easily taken care of by my baffle.
Now I can get on with building my reef.
Regards,
Jared
Bye bye bubbles
Thank you for a great idea! I just tried it and bye bye bubbles! I have been pulling my hair out trying different things for the last two weeks.
The gate valve allows me to adjust the level in my overflow box very precisely so that no air gets pulled into the drain. I have only a few large bubbles coming into the sump that are easily taken care of by my baffle.
Now I can get on with building my reef.
Regards,
Jared
Beenalongtime79
New member
Gate valves give the best results although I use a very nice true union ball valve and it works just fine for me.
Peace,
John H.
Peace,
John H.
ninjafish said:
I agree.
something else that I have noted: If I change the water level in my sump, the water level in my overflow also changes. The total resistance to flow (that's what keeps the water level up above the standpipe) is a combination of the valve resitance and the back pressure from the depth that the point of discharge in the sump. My point is that when the water level in the overflow changes, i first check the sump level before I mess with the valve setting. HTH.
EricI
Beenalongtime79
New member
The situation detailed by EricG can easily be avoided by setting up a baffle to keep one level of water in your compartment completely steady.
Peace,
John H.
Peace,
John H.
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