NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Looking for someone to look at my set-up and tell me if I did this right. This is my first go round with a reef tank. I put water in my tank for the first time last night. It wasn't "dead silent". My skimmer was making a lot of noise and there was a lot of splashing in the drain pipe. When I turned off the skimmer and adjusted the drain it did quiet down quite a bit but it wasn't dead silent. Here is my build thread if you would like to see it. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16482235#post16482235
And if not, here are a couple pics.
100_1442.jpg


100_1441.jpg


Bean, what am I doing wrong if anything?
 
Coyote, you might here a little water falling in the pipe for a while until a slime layer builds up. If you have any minute holes you might get a bit of air noise, i had a bit on mine until i glued all the pipes.
 
Coyote, you might here a little water falling in the pipe for a while until a slime layer builds up. If you have any minute holes you might get a bit of air noise, i had a bit on mine until i glued all the pipes.
Thanks jthomps123. I have it all drained but the display. Going to fix any leaks and give it another try. I've heard about the slime thing before. Once I put the RO/DI and salt water in for good, we'll see what happens.
 
Quick question:

My tank is coming with two bulkheads 1 1/2 and 1", I want to run this drain, but don't want an external return. So obviously I need to add another bulkhead.

Can I use the 1 1/2 as the main and 1" as the emerg, or should they be the same? I'll be adding another 1" for my return. Trying to keep the corner OF box as small as possible.'

THX
 
Just an observation.....
if your plumbing intakes on the siphon, open channel, and emergency drain were higher, the water will not have to fall as far ove the overflow - and that will help quiet the system.

Additionally - if you can put a ball valve on the siphon pipe - very near the exit in the sump, you will probably eliminate the rest of the noise. This allows the pipe to be full above the valve. Where your valve is placed now, is why you are hearing the water fall in the pipe.
I have a thread with a lot of pics - maybe one of them will give you some ideas?
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762906&highlight=Holy+Reefer!!!
Best of Luck
T
 
galoot:
Have you thought of - or is it possible to put an external overflow on one of the END panes of glass?
If you look at the thread in my post above it might give you some options

T
 
Ok, after reading all 47 pages, I am considering using this method for my 180.
My biggest question is for the folks with the bigger tanks (125+) with 2 overflows. Are you still having water level fluctuations in you're overflows and if not, what was your fix? If it was in the previous pages, I'm sorry if I missed it. My 180 has 2 corner overflows. Each one has a 1" drain and a 3/4" return and at the moment, the splashing sound in the sump is louder than the pump. I'm looking at installing a gate valve into both 1" drain lines near the sump, run the 3/4" lines to the sump, and make my return go up and over the back of the tank (haven't figured out how that will look at the moment). Is there anything else I need to look at doing or consider before I start the project? Thanks.

The fix is to to tie both drains together. Adjusting two valves on two drains is difficult to match. Tie the two 1" drians into a 1.5" line and use a 1.5" inch gate valve. The emergency drains can still be independent or tied together, but that does not really matter.
 
T, I want to keep everything internal at this point. I wanted to do a "coast to coast" originally. Now it's too late. I don't want the tank further off the wall with the depth that it is.

So do you think two bulkheads drains of 1 1/2(main) and 1in(emerg) will be ok along with the 1in return? I can still change or move the overflow. My tank is 48x24x20. I will have a low flowing sump to boot.


galoot:
Have you thought of - or is it possible to put an external overflow on one of the END panes of glass?
If you look at the thread in my post above it might give you some options

T
 
The fix is to to tie both drains together. Adjusting two valves on two drains is difficult to match. Tie the two 1" drians into a 1.5" line and use a 1.5" inch gate valve. The emergency drains can still be independent or tied together, but that does not really matter.

Hi Powerman,

Thanks for the feed back. That sounds like a good fix. :) Would you have any recommendations on how to run the return lines over the back? I was thinking of running a flexible line from the pump to the top and center of the tank into a T and have pvc run the length of the back using the 2 loc lines I have, or, just making it a spray bar. Thanks. :)
 
T, I want to keep everything internal at this point. I wanted to do a "coast to coast" originally. Now it's too late. I don't want the tank further off the wall with the depth that it is.

So do you think two bulkheads drains of 1 1/2(main) and 1in(emerg) will be ok along with the 1in return? I can still change or move the overflow. My tank is 48x24x20. I will have a low flowing sump to boot.


When you say it is too late...? Meaning the holes are drilled ? Or...?
Have you considered the end overflow rather than back of tank overflow?

If you are doing a Herbie - or a Bean, I am not sure that they will function correctly by "Y"ing the drains together. I am certain that will not work witht the Coast to Coast, or Bean style.
I have a 360 gal display that was moved and set up by wyeing the 2 stand pipes (Herbie set up) together - it is NOT silent. It has been ...tolerable....but - it really sepends on what you are willing to accept as "quiet". Some people don't have much tolerance for noise ( READ: WIVES:thumbsup:) and some actually like the sound of a little water going over the overflow....
If you have a low flow sump - you plumbing size is fine. The carrying capacity of even a 1'' submerged siphon ( Bean style) would be all you would probably want in a low flow sump.
T
 
Hi Powerman,

Thanks for the feed back. That sounds like a good fix. :) Would you have any recommendations on how to run the return lines over the back? I was thinking of running a flexible line from the pump to the top and center of the tank into a T and have pvc run the length of the back using the 2 loc lines I have, or, just making it a spray bar. Thanks. :)

When it comes to plumbing, there really is no "best" way. I have a90g with a Ehiem 1262. I used 1" flex pvc, to the bottom of my tank. Teeded it to 3/4", ran them along the bottom, elbowed up, 90/90 over. I just put a LineLoc nozzle on the end and sent the flow down the back of my rock work. I actually have a wye connector with two nozzles on one end, and a spray bar nozzle on the other side.

As always, it's best to minimize 90s, but oversizing helps eliminate restriction. I mean I have a lot of 90s, but I gained a ton of flow over the 3/4" setup it replaced. I have to throttle my pump back. So I have all the flow I need.

Your way sounds good. Mine is in an equipment closet too, so it ids not underneath. Just remember, if you use flex, it is flexible, but still pretty rigid. So it might not go where you want it to. You might have to tie it down some where or anchor it.
 
Thanks Powerman, I appreciate it. I like the idea of increasing the diameter size to compensate for the 90s. I think that will work out well. :)
 
The fix is to to tie both drains together. Adjusting two valves on two drains is difficult to match. Tie the two 1" drains into a 1.5" line and use a 1.5" inch gate valve. The emergency drains can still be independent or tied together, but that does not really matter.

Cool beans! Thats what I did. I changed my plumbing over to a Herbie style an it works nicely. The over flow is abut 4" down and there is some waterfall noise but not much. That will be fixed once I can get a gate valve. No body around here carries them so I'll have to look on line. Any recommended vendors? I have a ball valve on it now and its working, but I can't fine tune it like I would like. Here are some pics.

Here is a stand pipe with an emergency overflow.

plumbingHerbie6.jpg



Here are 2 of the drain lines and the return line going into a flexible 1" tube.

plumbingHerbie4.jpg



Here are the 2 drain lines going into 1 1/2" pvc and a ball valve on the T.

plumbingHerbie5.jpg



The return up the back.

plumbingHerbie9.jpg



And the return over the back. I decided not to go with a spray bar at the moment.

plumbingHerbie3.jpg



Its nice to have some quiet in the sump. Thanks to every one for sharing. :)
 
Excellent. I ordered mine from U.S. Plastics online. You can order them locally from Ace Hardware if you have one. Since I had to order mine, and didn't want to do it again, I got a threaded valve instead of a glued slip fit in case I needed to undo it or reuse it in the future. The gate valve will fix you up.
 
Excellent. I ordered mine from U.S. Plastics on line. You can order them locally from Ace Hardware if you have one. Since I had to order mine, and didn't want to do it again, I got a threaded valve instead of a glued slip fit in case I needed to undo it or reuse it in the future. The gate valve will fix you up.

Thanks Powerman, I appreciate your help. I just called the last Ace Hardware store in the area and they have a 1 1/4" gate valve. I'll give it a try and see it it works. I almost want to stick to 1 1/2" because I wont have to use adapters and it is already much quieter. Even with out a valve in place. If it doesn't work I'll order one from U.S. Plastics. I like the idea of using a threaded one so you can change it out and reuse it. :)
 
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