NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Here is a pic of the overflow with 1" bulk head. If I drill the back, where and what size drain hole would be recommended? Keep in mind this is a 40g breeder with 20g long sump and BlueLine 40 hdx return pump.


I would use a 1 1/2" primary and a 1" emergency. What's your Head Height? Your return pump seems a bit over kill for a 40 breeder. If you drill keep the two drains as far apart as you can for ease of adjustment.



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Here's my Herbie:

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20L 15g sump mag 3 return:ball valve open full, drain valve is approximately 50% open 3/4" plumbing for for drain and return. Thanks Herbie.
 
Head pressure (ft loss) = 5.58
Head pressure (psi) = 2.41
Total Flow Rate (gph) = 944.63
Exit Velocity Per Exit (ft/sec) = 5.84

I don't think these figures are 100% accurate considering I have a SCWD wavemaker as well as the return lines going into the tank are 3/4" bulk heads. So I'm guessing between 800-900 gph, which is what I was hoping for when I set the tank up.
 
Ok, I need some Herbie help here...

I just got water in my new 110 and I'm having a really hard time getting my Herbie dialed in. The water level in the overflow basically cycles back and forth between sucking air and running over into the backup drain. It'll suck air for maybe 30 seconds, then the water level will slowly rise until it overflows the backup drain for 30 seconds, then goes back down to sucking air. Of course, this also means the water level in the retun section of the sump fluctuates as more or less water is held in the overflow.

I have a 1" main drain and the top of the pipe is about 12" from the bottom of the tank (I have one of those 8" tall high capacity suction screens on top of it). The backup drain is about 14" above the top of the main drain and is about 1" below the level of the overflow teeth. So, that means the water level in the overflow is cycling up and down 14".

I'm running an OceanRunner 6500 return pump which puts out about 1700 gph - I tee'd off about 300 gph for the fuge, the 1" SCWD then probably knocks off another 20-30%, bringing me down to 1000 - 1100 gph or so running through the Herbie. I know I'm not maxing out the drain line because, if I open up the gate valve and turn off the tee to the fuge (to put 100% of the flow up to the DT), the drain handles the flow just fine (just noisy since I lose suction).

So, I figure I must have something set up wrong. What should I try?
 
I incorporated the Herbie Method to my tank and wowie it's silent! What I did was plumb my two one inch drains into inch and a half and teed it into a gate valve. I used the other 3/4 inch bulkheads as emergency backup drains and plumbed the return line up ond over the back of the tank. Here's a pic or two.

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In order to control the volume of the two overflows I had to run the left side to the right side and then use a tee and ending in the gate valve.

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Just a shot of how I thought to myself I should have this level with a slight slope to the right.

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You can see the gate valve and the pipe from that is submerged in the sump.

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Now with the two gate valves I can easily dial in the max flow from the pump and the levels I want in the overflows so as to not go into the E-drains. So easy with gates instead of ball valves. Oh did I mention it's completely silent? All I hear is the hum from the pumps. This on a day the wife is out of town and I was tasked to shut this freaking tank up or I would not have a tank in the living room.
 
Ok, I need some Herbie help here...

I just got water in my new 110 and I'm having a really hard time getting my Herbie dialed in. The water level in the overflow basically cycles back and forth between sucking air and running over into the backup drain. It'll suck air for maybe 30 seconds, then the water level will slowly rise until it overflows the backup drain for 30 seconds, then goes back down to sucking air. Of course, this also means the water level in the retun section of the sump fluctuates as more or less water is held in the overflow.

I have a 1" main drain and the top of the pipe is about 12" from the bottom of the tank (I have one of those 8" tall high capacity suction screens on top of it). The backup drain is about 14" above the top of the main drain and is about 1" below the level of the overflow teeth. So, that means the water level in the overflow is cycling up and down 14".

I'm running an OceanRunner 6500 return pump which puts out about 1700 gph - I tee'd off about 300 gph for the fuge, the 1" SCWD then probably knocks off another 20-30%, bringing me down to 1000 - 1100 gph or so running through the Herbie. I know I'm not maxing out the drain line because, if I open up the gate valve and turn off the tee to the fuge (to put 100% of the flow up to the DT), the drain handles the flow just fine (just noisy since I lose suction).

So, I figure I must have something set up wrong. What should I try?

Your cycling is mostly caused by inconsistent levels in the sump drain chamber or in the sump return chamber. Keep those 2 static, and the only variance in your overflow box level will be due to any gradual restrictions in the lines due to plugging.
 
I have read this thread extensively and understand everything pretty well. However, due to all the contradicting views I am not sure what to do with DUAL OVERFLOWS. So, is it best to Tee them together with 1 gate valve OR is it best to not tee them together and use 2 gate valves? I am obviously wanting to take the route that leads to the least amount of fluctuation.

My tank is 300 gallons with dual overflows and a 3600 GPH Reeflo pump that will run as a return and pump for my skimmer. Each overflow box has a 1" and 3/4" hole. The plan is to have a main 1" drain in each overflow box and a 3/4" emergency drain. I am also unsure on pipe sizes to use, especially if I tee them together. I am also unsure if I should make my emergency drain a durso pipe and run it with a very small amount of water entering it like I have seeen some people do to help with fluctuations.

Any help would be nice. Initially I was thinking to tee them together but am now second guessing myself, here is a quick pic I drew up of what I was thinking.

Texastravis
 
Looks good to me, I would do the durso as well. Is there a way to 100% balance drains between overflows and gate valve?

As far as size, just use a very big bulkhead, then plumb dow to size that seems to work.

Sounds like a new build is the tank drilled?
 
Looks good to me, I would do the durso as well. Is there a way to 100% balance drains between overflows and gate valve?

As far as size, just use a very big bulkhead, then plumb dow to size that seems to work.

Sounds like a new build is the tank drilled?

I think this quote is for me? What do you mean by 100% balance the drains? Like make them same length/shape? I think I could.

Semi new build here is my build thread

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1802407

I am not sure what you mean by use a big bulkhead and plumb down to size...Each overflow box has a 1" and 3/4" bulkhead.

To join the drain lines or not to join the drain lines...that tis the question.

:beer:
 
How do you guys use a return line? Do you use PVC or braided nylon tube on the return?

I use both. pump, braided nylon, pvc, tank. The braided nylon allows you to move the pump a few inches if necessary when working under the cabinet.
From the top of the stand up, is pvc.
I'm still new. Maybe after I learn a few more tricks, I won't need as much space to work and will learn an easy method of getting to the skimmer to clean it. Right now, I need everything to be able to move as much as possible.
 
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