NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

The gate valve should be close to the sump. So you would decrease the overall resistnce in te length of the pipe, but probably not enough to worry about.
 
Will 3/4" siphon line be large enough to do ~250gph? The emergency would be 1", but the 3/4" gate valve would be significantly cheaper, so if I could be just as well off with 3/4 i'd much rather do that...
 
Will 3/4" siphon line be large enough to do ~250gph? The emergency would be 1", but the 3/4" gate valve would be significantly cheaper, so if I could be just as well off with 3/4 i'd much rather do that...


Others have stated that gate valves do not open all the way like a ball valve does. On a smaller diameter pipe, they have chosen to go up a size on the gate valve to allow for full water passage. Just a thought.
 
So based on that I will be fine, correct? under half of full flow...

By no means am I the mathematician. Here is another site you can look for some answers.

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx

You can run plenty of water through a 3/4" pipe. The problem lies where there are 90 degree elbows and gate valves. If you look through a gate valve when it is fully open, it is not fully open. Now imagine algae buildup or a small snail blocking even more. Your 3/4" pipe is no longer 3/4". Keep those factors in mind before building.
 
I have 180g tank with 2 built in overflows. Each side has one 1" and one 3/4" bulkheads. What's the best way to set this up using the Herbie style?
 
I have 180g tank with 2 built in overflows. Each side has one 1" and one 3/4" bulkheads. What's the best way to set this up using the Herbie style?

My 180 has the same bulkheads. What worked for me was using the 1" for the main drain lines and I tied them together with a T. Below the T I placed a gate valve and was able to control both drains. I used the 3/4" for the emergency overflow and had each one empty directly into the sump. I did not tie them together. The return is a 1" tubing going up and over the back of the tank. HTH
 
Would there be any adverse affects if the 2 mains drain lines that are T together are not the same distance from the T back into the tank? I am asking because my Skimmer chamber is on one side but each drain is on each end.
 
It shouldn't matter. Worst case there might be a small dfference in height in the two overflow boxes. If the only diffference is more pipe you probably won't notice. If one side has a lot oextra turns then that pipe will have more resistance and may back up. IMHO there would have to be a lot of extra turns, but I don't know my fluid dynamics.
 
Would there be any adverse affects if the 2 mains drain lines that are T together are not the same distance from the T back into the tank? I am asking because my Skimmer chamber is on one side but each drain is on each end.

No, it won't make much of a difference. Mine is like that where one side almost runs the length of the tank and the other side is only a few inches. When I first started running it there was some height difference between the left and right overflow box but that seemed to level out over time.
 
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Setting up a 120 RR with dual overflows.

1. Is the reason to run a standpipe on the full syphon to avoid sump overflow in power outage? I have a 20 gal sump. So, this is a concern for me. I know that traditionally the standpipe is to raise the water level to reduce water fall. But, it seems the gate valve serves the purpose of raising the height of the water.

2. Is it better to T the drain lines and adjust with single gate valve or run separate with two gate valves? I've been planning to run separate lines.

3. I planned to take 1" drains to 1 1/4" to reduce back pressure in elbows. Is this necessary?

4. Alternatively, I already have one single 1" gate valve. Is this too small to run two 1" drains T'd together?

Thanks
 
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1.yes, and potentially to reduce the pressure on the overflow itself, if the overflow were to drain completely.

2.not sure

3.using 45 degree elbows would help as well, but you may not need either one, as you will be controlling the flow anyway, so the pressure would just be part of that control, would limit slightly at the upper limit of the flow range that you can run.

4.I am no expert, but I think it would depend on how much flow you are looking to achieve through those drains, a 1 inch pipe in full siphon can handle quite a bit of flow, but it just depends

JMO
 
Actually .... gave it some more thought.

Run the standpipe to decrease water fall while decreasing the volume entering sump during a power outage. Use the gate valve to increase height above standpipe to eliminate air. If your sump is large enough, you can run without the standpipe and use the gate valve to increase the height in overflow until noise is eliminated.

Run the syphon drains to a Tee, increasing the exit side to next larger size. Use single gate valve after Tee for easier adjustment of water levels. There could be a difference in the overflow water levels between dual overflows. But, it's easier to adjust the single gate valve. There is no increase in failure potential since the pipe will only grow larger. A failure should happen before the pipes join.

Has anyone installed eggcrate in the sump to make a platform? You could run with an emergency standpipe and bulkhead under full syphon. Live rock could be added to decrease the volume while adding biological filtration.

Thanks,
Jason
 
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