NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
igvm
New member
+1
I know this is very old thread. Can someone please re-post a link to pictures describing the idea ?
Thanks !
Quick questions
If this is run for awhile would the slightest difference in return pump and the amount of water you tuned the return to be able to take with the gate value were off by even... 1 or so GPH would it not end up gurgling after awhile. I just don't see how it says stable enough over time ? Could be a stupid question anyways thanks.
If this is run for awhile would the slightest difference in return pump and the amount of water you tuned the return to be able to take with the gate value were off by even... 1 or so GPH would it not end up gurgling after awhile. I just don't see how it says stable enough over time ? Could be a stupid question anyways thanks.
bllfish
New member
Since there are no longer any active links to pictures of this silent system. could someone let me know if this is correct? I should run the primary drain from about 6 inches below the waterline inside the overflow and the second overflow pipe about 1 inch above that waterline. In the sump , the down pipe should be below the water level and inside a sock. The second overflow should be above the water in the sump so if it is being used there will be noise from the water rushing down. Use a GATE valve to adjust water flow so water pumped in and water draining out are the same.
TheFishMan65
New member
Tsmit,
Yes variation (pump, blockage, evaporation) in flow will change the height of the water in the overflow. The larger height difference in the two drains means more room for change. I think this is one reason why the BeanAnimal design incorporated the third pipe. It did not have much height.
bll,
You could have no pipe on the main drain. More height the better IMHO. I think you want to initially set you water level high. Evaporation, blockage, etc. will flow less water (I can't think of any case that would increase water flow) so over time the level may go down. Sock is your choice.
MJNT,
Never heard that before. I don't think it is needed since I think all overflows would have a hole if it it is required - do you have a reference to this? I don't see the flow in the overflow box of a Herbie being much different than any other overflow configuration. In fact I would not recommend it since it means more water drain to a sump in the event of a power failure.
Yes variation (pump, blockage, evaporation) in flow will change the height of the water in the overflow. The larger height difference in the two drains means more room for change. I think this is one reason why the BeanAnimal design incorporated the third pipe. It did not have much height.
bll,
You could have no pipe on the main drain. More height the better IMHO. I think you want to initially set you water level high. Evaporation, blockage, etc. will flow less water (I can't think of any case that would increase water flow) so over time the level may go down. Sock is your choice.
MJNT,
Never heard that before. I don't think it is needed since I think all overflows would have a hole if it it is required - do you have a reference to this? I don't see the flow in the overflow box of a Herbie being much different than any other overflow configuration. In fact I would not recommend it since it means more water drain to a sump in the event of a power failure.
bllfish
New member
mr.maroonsalty
New member
Bill: that would all depend on how much water spills over your weir when the power shuts off. A larger sump is always more convenient as far as workspace is concerned, but spacial limits usually dictate what we can and cannot do.
Last edited:
mr.maroonsalty
New member
That would be +++ the amount of water in the overflow chamber of course!
ridetheducati
20 and Over Club
ridetheducati
20 and Over Club
mr.maroonsalty
New member
Certainly it wouldn't take a 300 gal tank an hour to drain through a 1" bulkhead; I would have to see it to believe that it would take an hour for 36" of 1" to drain 300gal. Maybe the benchmark is there to cover ones liability, nevertheless, its safest to perform a complete series of wet tests before rushing any plumbing through.
TankArchitect
Member
Hi. Think I've read most of this thread, but sorry if this question has been asked before:
Would like to set up a Herbie on a 120 gallon Perfecto corner flo tank. The overflow has two holes, each sized for a 1" bulkhead. I would like to have the return pump set to flow at a rate of about 600 GPH.
From what I can gather, the emergency drain is set about 1/2" to 1" below the bottom teeth of the overflow. From my own measurements this puts the top of the emergency drain at about 2" to 2-1/2" below the rim of the tank.
In the event of a complete blockage of the gravity/full siphon main drain, is this 2"-2-1/2" enough distance for the full siphon to develop on the emergency drain before the tank overflows? Has anyone tested this kind of scenario? (I would be running this emergency drain almost straight down to a sump about 3 feet below with the line terminating about 1" above the waterline of the sump.)
My concern is that from what I have read a 1" drain can safely handle about 300 GPH in a non-siphon situation. So, if the siphon on the emergency drain doesn't have enough "head" on it to develop or takes too long to develop, my tank would run the risk of overflowing?
Thanks for any help on this. Trying to decide whether I should go with a strict Herbie on a reef ready tank, drill another hole in the side of the overflow as a second emergency (although seems to defeat the purpose of a Herbie since it was intended for reef ready tanks without having to drill holes), or bite the bullet and go the Beananimal route if I'm going to drill anyway.
Would like to set up a Herbie on a 120 gallon Perfecto corner flo tank. The overflow has two holes, each sized for a 1" bulkhead. I would like to have the return pump set to flow at a rate of about 600 GPH.
From what I can gather, the emergency drain is set about 1/2" to 1" below the bottom teeth of the overflow. From my own measurements this puts the top of the emergency drain at about 2" to 2-1/2" below the rim of the tank.
In the event of a complete blockage of the gravity/full siphon main drain, is this 2"-2-1/2" enough distance for the full siphon to develop on the emergency drain before the tank overflows? Has anyone tested this kind of scenario? (I would be running this emergency drain almost straight down to a sump about 3 feet below with the line terminating about 1" above the waterline of the sump.)
My concern is that from what I have read a 1" drain can safely handle about 300 GPH in a non-siphon situation. So, if the siphon on the emergency drain doesn't have enough "head" on it to develop or takes too long to develop, my tank would run the risk of overflowing?
Thanks for any help on this. Trying to decide whether I should go with a strict Herbie on a reef ready tank, drill another hole in the side of the overflow as a second emergency (although seems to defeat the purpose of a Herbie since it was intended for reef ready tanks without having to drill holes), or bite the bullet and go the Beananimal route if I'm going to drill anyway.
TheFishMan65
New member
blfish,
I have a 40 gallon breeder I use a a sump. Yes test for overflow, I was just saying that the lower th siphon is the easier it will be to tune and stay tuned.
John Fidler,
When in doubt test. I think that I would be enough, but there are some ting you can do to prevent air from breaking the siphon. Add a U bend with a small hole so air can get out and the opening is that much deeper. Add a piece of plastic over the top so the sir has to come from the side rather than straight down.
I have a 40 gallon breeder I use a a sump. Yes test for overflow, I was just saying that the lower th siphon is the easier it will be to tune and stay tuned.
John Fidler,
When in doubt test. I think that I would be enough, but there are some ting you can do to prevent air from breaking the siphon. Add a U bend with a small hole so air can get out and the opening is that much deeper. Add a piece of plastic over the top so the sir has to come from the side rather than straight down.
TankArchitect
Member
Fishman,
Thanks. Searched some more and found a thread where someone mentioned that about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the emergency was enough to get the siphon going. I'll just test like you said and then adjust/mod as you mentioned. Could also probably just lower the emergency a tad more if needed without creating a noise issue in the overflow.
Thanks. Searched some more and found a thread where someone mentioned that about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the emergency was enough to get the siphon going. I'll just test like you said and then adjust/mod as you mentioned. Could also probably just lower the emergency a tad more if needed without creating a noise issue in the overflow.
Powederblue
New member
Hey all i have a plumbing question that i couldnt find the answer to in the Ultra quiet drain thread. I have a 40b drilled on both back corners and would like to not have to run a overflow box. With just the 90 elbow as the drain i cant seem to get a good smooth flow going through the pipes, just loud and splashy noise in the sump. Any thoughts?
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