NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
Reefer08
New member
I currently have a 1" Durso standpipe that makes the draining noise silent. But my sump is very noisey. I hear a noise every 10 seconds a huge bubble burst noise and noises. Ive tried adjusting the durso air line tubing but it hasn't helped.
Any help would be appreciated. I do not have an emergency drain btw.
Thanks
Any help would be appreciated. I do not have an emergency drain btw.
Thanks
Beenalongtime79
New member
Yep. A gate valve on the primary drain with a backup drain that would drain at a higher level if the primary drain were to get clogged. Simple.
Cheers,
John
PowermanKW
New member
U.S Plastics. Just google. they are there.
dzhuo
Active member
Great but before I cut my plumbing and install the gate valve, I just need to confirm one more thing. Other than the gate valve, another essential element of the Herbie overflow is the ability to create enough head pressure as the water level in the overflow box raise. I have mentioned that my external overflow box is only 7.5" tall so does anyone know if there will be enough head pressure to handle the extra water from the return?
PowermanKW
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15245687#post15245687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rufio173
Yep. A gate valve on the primary drain with a backup drain that would drain at a higher level if the primary drain were to get clogged. Simple.
Cheers,
John
My suggestion to you would be to read the opening post of this thread. It explains everything.
PowermanKW
New member
There is no specific value involved. You already have probably 4 feet of head from the surface of the overflow to the water level in your sump. I probably only have 7 inches of variance. The point is that whatever difference you do have, gives you a measure of self regulation.
PowermanKW
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15247468#post15247468 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
Nowhere near 4'. I just took a quick measure and it's about 27" to the sump. This is the difference you refer to?
How did you only have 7" of variance?
BTW, Any chance you can snap a couple of pictures of your setup? This thread is 37 pages but less than 10 pictures!
From the bottom of the primary inlet tube where it would suck air, to the bottom of the emergency drain stand pipe.
I did a write up on 3Reef. Yuo can see my primary drain tube there.
http://www.3reef.com/forums/i-made/my-herbie-overflow-write-up-pics-beware-60239.html
dzhuo
Active member
OK. I feel bad about this because I don't understand this statement:
From the bottom of the primary inlet tube where it would suck air, to the bottom of the emergency drain stand pipe.
I think a picture will help so here is a (bad) sketch of my overflow. The scale isn't right but you can see the back up drain in the far left, middle is primary drain and the return from the sump. There is also no teeth in the overflow. The whole overflow box is external and is about 7.5" tall. So what's the variant difference here?
From the bottom of the primary inlet tube where it would suck air, to the bottom of the emergency drain stand pipe.
I think a picture will help so here is a (bad) sketch of my overflow. The scale isn't right but you can see the back up drain in the far left, middle is primary drain and the return from the sump. There is also no teeth in the overflow. The whole overflow box is external and is about 7.5" tall. So what's the variant difference here?
Beenalongtime79
New member
dzhuo, what he means is from the primary drain hole to the back up drain hole. The difference in height between the two is how much wiggle room you have.
With a gate valve you can pretty much adjust the height of the water column in your overflow to any height you want so the greater the difference in height that you have in between the top of your primary drain and the top of your backup drain, the more "play" you will have to adjust the water level so that your primary drain doesn't suck any air.
Cheers,
John
With a gate valve you can pretty much adjust the height of the water column in your overflow to any height you want so the greater the difference in height that you have in between the top of your primary drain and the top of your backup drain, the more "play" you will have to adjust the water level so that your primary drain doesn't suck any air.
Cheers,
John
Beenalongtime79
New member
It should be.... it is nice to have more though. A gate valve will be almost essential for you to make it work to dial it in. Once you get a gate valve. I'm sure you will realize how easy it can be.
Cheers,
John
Cheers,
John
PowermanKW
New member
On my Primary drain stand pipe, you can see I have about 5-6 inches of holes for water to flow through. So any where along that distance, I will have a water level above the drain that will not allow air in. A silent drain
Don't get hung up on this distance or that. The only point about the water hight, is that it provides some self regulation. You do not have to adjust the gate valve to a gnat's *** to get it perfectly balanced.
With out taking into account of head pressure, you would have to set the gate valve absolutely perfect to match what is coming from the return pump, and what you are draining from the tank. But you don't have to.
If you close it a "little" too much, water level will rise giving more head pressure, allowing more flow, and matching flows. Take head pressure out of that and the tank will just continue to raise water level and over flow.
My only advice to you is where you set your emergency drain. You tank overflows to your box. Set you emergency drain right above your normal overflow height. Say your overflow is 2 inches below the top of your tank. You set your emergency drain just below the top of your tank to prevent overflow. Well now you just allowed 1.5 inches of water across the whole surface of your tank. That is a lot of water. Could be half your sump. For me, it is much more than the return section my return pump sits in.
So, I put my emergency drain just a bit more taller than my normal overflow water level. If the water level in my overflow box goes up too high, say because something got in the valve, then I don't raise the level of my display tank before my emergency drain kicks in. All my difference in water level stays in my overflow box. Does that make sense?
Don't get hung up on this distance or that. The only point about the water hight, is that it provides some self regulation. You do not have to adjust the gate valve to a gnat's *** to get it perfectly balanced.
With out taking into account of head pressure, you would have to set the gate valve absolutely perfect to match what is coming from the return pump, and what you are draining from the tank. But you don't have to.
If you close it a "little" too much, water level will rise giving more head pressure, allowing more flow, and matching flows. Take head pressure out of that and the tank will just continue to raise water level and over flow.
My only advice to you is where you set your emergency drain. You tank overflows to your box. Set you emergency drain right above your normal overflow height. Say your overflow is 2 inches below the top of your tank. You set your emergency drain just below the top of your tank to prevent overflow. Well now you just allowed 1.5 inches of water across the whole surface of your tank. That is a lot of water. Could be half your sump. For me, it is much more than the return section my return pump sits in.
So, I put my emergency drain just a bit more taller than my normal overflow water level. If the water level in my overflow box goes up too high, say because something got in the valve, then I don't raise the level of my display tank before my emergency drain kicks in. All my difference in water level stays in my overflow box. Does that make sense?
PowermanKW
New member
And sorry, I miss quoted you above I was suggesting Reef08 read the opening post.
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