Newbie Corner Feedback-Reefkeeping 101

Hi everyone
I have two 10 gallon tanks that are right now being used as Platy fry tanks. I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank and my 12 year old bought me a Platy. It was of course prego. In about four more weeks one of the tanks will be empty. I would love to start a small reef tank in it. I have been reading a lot and now am more confused then when I started LOL!! If I use the ten gallon do I just add the wave maker, salt, sand and a skimmer?? One book said I should have a 10gallon sub for a 10 gallon tank too. Then I would also need to change the light because it can't sit ontop of the tank. Oh and will i need a different kind of bulb too for the coral it just has the one it came with. The last thing I'm really confused about is do I need a fan too. If so is it for the water or something else??? Sorry I know newbie questions :spin2:
My Last question for tonight is....... would it make a huge difference if I go up to a twenty gallon in what I would need to get besides what a freashwater tank needs????
:confused:
THANK YOU so much in advance :mixed:

The large vs small debate boils down to how precise you can be. Most beginners fail at small tanks because they don't do enough research, and aren't precise enough, and slight changes in a smaller system can have big consequences. I wanted to start a 3 gallon. I went to buy a few pounds of live rock from a local guy and he practically begged me to get at least a 10 gallon. I got that, soon realized how limited i was, and got a 20 gallon, and used a 10 gallon for the sump. I still feel pretty choked with that system, because there are so many things you can't do with it.

You need different lighting for coral because they get energy from the light. Most coral has to greater and lesser degrees, symbiotic algae living with in it's body that produces energy via photosynthesis and shares it with the coral. Then the coral itself also feeds on nutrients in the water column, like tiny crustaceans, plankton, and organic debris.

If you want coral, you have to get proper lighting, which is expensive. If you do fish only you only need what light you need to bring out the color of the fish and let them know when it's day and night.

You mix the salt separately because freshly mixed salt water is caustic. Give it 24 hours before adding it to the aquarium.

There are very few wavemakers appropriate for a 10 gallon, that is one of the problems with smaller tanks, you can't create the turbulent water that a lot of coral like with a massive wavemaker that turns over 1000gph+. It will make a 10 gallon tank into a toilet bowl. A hang on filter generally provides an erratic enough current to make coral happy in that small of a tank.

You can use a lot of freshwater items in salt water, just make sure the packaging says "works in marine of freshwater." You can use a hang on filter and re-purpose it to what you need. For instance you can silicone in a few piece of plexiglass to divide up the inside, and pack some algae in there, then fix a tiny bulb in there to help the algae grow, and then have a spot to stuff a bag of filter media if for instance you need to run something like activated carbon. A compartment that grows algae to help filter the water and provide a safe place for organisms to grow is called a refugium. Many people design their sumps to include a refugium, or they have a separate tank that is a refugium that also circulates through the sump.

The problem with having a sump for a 10 gallon, i found, is that the glass is so thin and fragile on a 10 gallon tank, it's difficult to drill, and the pressure put on the tank having any sort of plumbing hanging off of that hole can crack it. It's amazing how much thicker the glass is just going from a 10 gallon to a 20. The only other way to have a sump without drilling the glass is to use a siphon overflow. I haven't used one so i can't tell you if they work well. I've heard some people recommend them and some people bash them.

You don't HAVE to have sand unless you intend to have organisms that like to burrow in sand. If you're doing fish only, and none of them burrow, you don't need sand. Sand does provide a place for some things to grow that will feed the tank, but it apparently can also be a source of nitrates later down the road as it becomes more laden with waste material.

I hope i answered some of your questions, just keep reading, it starts to make sense after a while.
 
clowns belong to the same family as damsels so they will fight and stress each other out--this is what damsels do.

I would add an anemone to your tank first and see if the clown fish will host in it, This will give it protection from the damsels. If this occurs then you can add another clown fish.

Aren't anemones kind of hard for beginners to keep? I've heard a lot of disaster stories about newbies and anemones.
 
I do not have any livestock in the tank so can I add cleanup crew?

Yes, you can start adding things to clean the tank, but when you say clean-up crew, most people by that mean, dump a million hermit crabs and snails in. Not only is that hellaciously wasteful money-wise, but if you overstock a tank with cleaners, they will eat all the waste, and then sit there with nothing to do until they starve to death. Then the deaths result in poor water quality. Plan ahead and buy what you need to keep the tank clean long term, and if you will have anything ornamental that competes with cleaners for food, you have to take that into account. If you want a fancy starfish that eats the same food as snails, you don't want 100 snails. Your sea star will be out-competed for food by 100 hungry snails and starve to death.

As always, do things slowly. Add whatever cleaners you think you need, or would like, a little bit at a time, until you're satisfied with their performance.
 
Hello All,
I recently setup a three chamber sump/refugium and had a question regarding my skimmer and return pump. My protein skimmer is old and rated for 296 gph and my return pump is a mag drive 9 rated for 500 gph. How will this affect my sump water level and should I keep this in mind when setting the sump/refugium up? ANy help would be greatly appreciated

Your question is confusing me. The return pump, and the pump for the skimmer shouldn't have anything to do with one another. All that matters on the skimmer is if it provides adequate waste removal for your system. Outside of the gph, most skimmers are rated for the size of the system, like 100 gallon or 150 gallon. Given this information, can you clarify what it is you're confused about?
 
I have been reading this all day. I am very new to the saltwater game. I have learned alot today. THANK you to all who have posted
 
Your question is confusing me. The return pump, and the pump for the skimmer shouldn't have anything to do with one another. All that matters on the skimmer is if it provides adequate waste removal for your system. Outside of the gph, most skimmers are rated for the size of the system, like 100 gallon or 150 gallon. Given this information, can you clarify what it is you're confused about?

I was concerned with the water level in each area in my sump. However, after running my sump with my protein skimmer I sort of answered my own question. Thanks.
 
if i plan on using my sump as refugium, how high up can the water be in the sump - all the way to the top or little lower?

i have a 90g tank with30 gallon sump
 
sorry im new to reefs and forums so i dont know protocal. can anyone tell me how to harvest or stimulate growth of local reef speces in the north atlantic near new jersey?
 
sorry im new to reefs and forums so i dont know protocal. can anyone tell me how to harvest or stimulate growth of local reef speces in the north atlantic near new jersey?

Don't worry about protocol but I am not sure what you are asking. I live on Long Island and do keep a local NY tank but there are no reef species here in the north east.
You can collect many specimins here and put them in a tank and they wil live forever but I am not sure if that is what you are asking.
Paul
 
the problem of our region is not that theres no coral, its that theres so much sand n mud that its hard for it to find any foothold. i work literally in the water as a clammer year round ive worked inthe raritan bay in the past but clammin in south jersey is different cuz were in the water, not rakin from the boat so when ur face is at water level n its clear i see such ... well ... things i cant describe. every broken shell every piece of wood every brick becomes home for numerous mullusks n whatnot.
not many people realize that there r more things living in cold water than warm. theres no exception to coral. lophelia for instance has made up some of the largest coral stuctures in the world. in the north atlantic alone its host to more than seven hundred other corals as foothold.
im tryin to capture tube worms n anemonys n whatever else will grow on some small statues n rocks i have submerged in the wild like redbeard finger coral n other strange colorful n unique specimens i find at work on a regular basis.
its a scary world beneath the surface but extremely fascinating n im finding myself watching my tank morethan anything else. currently my tank is host to about $2000 worth of fines n i plan on much more but even if i have to buy things i cant find here it wud still have to be native to here. but to elaborate, im seeking help trying to influence these things to bond to these rocks iv planted out there n im wondering if there are things i can do to help this along
 
p.s. im also tryin to design a mud filter using local bay mud n plants out of a 20gal tank n incorporate a protien skimmer while also being a secondary display tank in the next room any input there is welcome too
 
not many people realize that there r more things living in cold water than warm
There is much more life in cold water than the tropics, that is why all the major fisheries of the world are in northern, cold water. I have been diving in New York waters for over 40 years and you can't see much life in the distance because you can only see a few inches, but if you could see 100 yards like in the tropics you will notice that these waters are just filled with life. The tropics are basically dead. If you take a glass or northern water and look closely you will see all sorts of things swimming in there but the tropics you would see nothing. The northern waters are not poluted, that is life and mud that obscures vision, not pollution.
ChizleFX I have been using mud from local waters in my reef for 40 years. My tank was started with this water and I still use it.
As for corals, we do have a lot of soft corals but nothing photosynthetic. The water here gets to the upper 30s in winter and no stony corals live here
Local NY anemone
Anemone1.png
 
if i plan on using my sump as refugium, how high up can the water be in the sump - all the way to the top or little lower?

i have a 90g tank with30 gallon sump

The sump acts as a fail safe if the power goes off and the tank drains back into it. Therefore you need to test your system by turning the pump off and seeing if the sump can hold the back flush. That is one criteria for setting the level in the sump

The other criteria is the level that gives the Max effeciency of your skimmer. You can check the manufacturer for that. On average it is about 8 to 10 inches
 
Hello all. I have a question regarding my cycle. I have had my tank (75 Gal. w/ 50lbs/ of dry rock and 10lbs of live rock) cycling now for 2 1/2 weeks. I just tested my water and only show very little amount of ammonia (.50ppm) so far. Is this normal? Should it be higher by now. And what can I do to speed it along. I dont want to rush it but mabye there isnt enough live rock or something??????
 
Hello all. I have a question regarding my cycle. I have had my tank (75 Gal. w/ 50lbs/ of dry rock and 10lbs of live rock) cycling now for 2 1/2 weeks. I just tested my water and only show very little amount of ammonia (.50ppm) so far. Is this normal? Should it be higher by now. And what can I do to speed it along. I dont want to rush it but mabye there isnt enough live rock or something??????

That is a normal reading at this time due to the amt of dry rock you started with.
Suggest you stay the course. The ammonia will fall to zero and the nitrates will rise and fall to zero.
The bacteria that process the ammonia reproduce much quicker then the bacteria that process the nitrates and take even longer establishing within the pores of the dry rock
There is little you can do to speed this up
 
Thanks Capn.. I guess I thought it was odd that this was as high as my ammonia would go (.50ppm) and then start to fall. I believe it is starting to drop already. So you are saying that is normal??
 
I have been cycling my tank now for about 3 weeks and there seems to be diatoms on my fuge sand bottom but not in the main tank sand bed. Is this a good or bad thing? Also, does this sort of signify the end of my cycle? Do you think the diatoms will start on my main sand bed soon after?
 
I have been cycling my tank now for about 3 weeks and there seems to be diatoms on my fuge sand bottom but not in the main tank sand bed. Is this a good or bad thing? Also, does this sort of signify the end of my cycle? Do you think the diatoms will start on my main sand bed soon after?
It might not be diatoms. Algae blooms will come and go over the next 3 months. Hard to predict.
Occurring in the fuge is a good thing rather then the display
Do you have any macro algae in there yet to consume nitrates and phospates--the stuff fueling the current algae bloom?
 
No macros yet. Just live sand and a cup of the good stuff off the bottom of the rock pool at my LFS.. I don't think it could be from the nitrates since I my last water test indicated that my nitrates were 0. I didn't think I need macro yet. I am going to get some cheato. Yu think I should get it now? btW thanks for your input so far cap'n!, much appreciated
 
No macros yet. Just live sand and a cup of the good stuff off the bottom of the rock pool at my LFS.. I don't think it could be from the nitrates since I my last water test indicated that my nitrates were 0. I didn't think I need macro yet. I am going to get some cheato. Yu think I should get it now? btW thanks for your input so far cap'n!, much appreciated
Tks
Yes, get the chaeto going now.
Even if you test zero for nitrates the algae is evident that you have some. The algae will consume them as fast as they are being introduced so when you test you get a zero reading
 
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