Nick's 225G Deep Sea Aquatics Project - FINISHED (almost)

Four months ago I put my house on the market so that I could make a local move within the greater Tampa Bay area. I figured what better time to upgrade from a cramped 120G to something a little larger. (More room for my corals and the ability to own larger fish ethically) After talking to John down at FAOIS I decided to go with a 225G (72"x27"x27") Deep Sea Aquatics tank. The tank has some really cool features I wanted without the added expense of going custom. I absolutely wanted a center overflow (coming off of a marineland corner system and is not optimal for herbie or bean overflows) and have it drilled for 3 drains for the bean overflow system and 2 returns. I placed my order for the tank and diligently began work on the custom tank stand and the fish/equipment room (located directly behind the display tank) while I waited for it to come in. I originally planned on documenting the whole process like some of the build threads I have seen on here, but that quickly fell off as I put all my time and effort toward the planning, layout and construction of the fish room. So waalaa, after three months of waiting for the tank to come in and four months of building all the systems required to run it I give you this:


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Not hooked up yet, but this is a solenoid valve controlled by my Neptune apex that will be programmed to turn the water on and off for my RODI system. I already have a mechanical float that turns off the water when the barrel becomes full, but this solenoid adds a measure of safety by only letting the RODI system run for x amount of hours every day or other day and also prevents the RODI system from 'short cycling' by coming on every time the topoff pump kicks on.

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Plumbing and wiring entering the fish room.

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Looking in the door at the fish room.

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1st stage of the sump system, dumps into my custom 40G breeder, hits my skimmer, goes through baffles with mangroves in it and then dumps into my 100 gallon rubbermaid sump.

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Here you can see my mangrove light (on during night hours), door bell to start an automatic water change (more on that later), a variety of different gate valves and an extra large 80W emperor UV Light.

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A picture of my dosing system. Drews dosers and 3 gallon containers. For me two-part is the easiest method of keeping your parameters in check!

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A shot of a cyclone fan for hot days (Cools up to 20 degrees! Who needs a chiller? Warning causes LOTS of evaporation), another shot of the UV and GAC & GFO reactors.

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My 40G breeder dumping into a sock and then a 100G rubbermaid sump. Who likes my custom made sock holder with attached float switch level sensors? (Made out of PVC boards and acrylic).

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A picture of my reef filler twin head pump. It pumps in new saltwater and the same rate it pumps out the old stuff.. Talk about easy! Love these pumps! (They do not cause a siphon when used with the pictured injector heads which is just awesome!)

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Another reef filler pump for adding top off RODI water. Also you can see I use ESV salt. I switched from Instant Ocean and I will never go back. This stuff mixes 100% clear with no grimy residue.
 
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RODI unit. Enough said.

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My mixing station. Some cool piping work there right?

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A full shot of my mixing station setup.

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Exhaust fan with baffles that pushes hot humid air out of the fish room and into the garage when temps rise.

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My chemistry fragging area!

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My Iwaki mixing and system pumps are outside the fish room in the garage. They just get too darn hot and I don't need them warming the water.

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Another shot of the exhaust fan with baffles



AND THEN........ My Tank:
(It is a little bare, but it has potential!!)



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I'm liking the rock work!

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Selling these MP40's and getting the new Tunze 6255's


If you guys are interested I will make another post to overview the brands and models of the equipment I used. Thanks for taking the time to look at my project that is jusssssttttt about finished. :beer:
 
Love it!!

wish i had the space to do something like that. the fish room is incredible!

oh and if you got more on the doorbell that'd be cool :)
 
The door bell is just an ordinary momentary contact switch (mounted on an exterior PVC box purchased at Home Depot) that is hooked up to a breakout box, which in turn is hooked up to my apex. When the apex senses that the switch is closed it executes a command.

In this case, I created a virtual outlet named Button_1 and wrote the following code:

Fallback OFF
If Switch6 CLOSED Then ON
If Switch6 OPEN Then OFF
Defer 010:00 Then OFF

For the physical out that the Reef Filler pump is hooked up to I wrote the following code:

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet Button_1 = ON Then ON
 
Soooo, I didn't tell you guys why I have two sumps...

Added water volume is a bonus, but that was not the driving reason.

I wanted an internal skimmer, but I hated how if the water level of my sump changed (even very small changes) my skimmer output would also change. This would often mean overflows.

I also hate micro bubbles and wanted to keep the skimmer as far up stream as possible.

Third, I wanted an area far away from the return pump to add my daily dosing.

So I created this system. The water level always stays the same in the 40G breeder sump, even if the pump is turned off or if you doubled the flow. A massive 2" drain handles anything you throw at it. Micro bubbles have to go through 3 baffles and a filter sock before having a chance to make it to the display and any chemicals that I am dosing are thoroughly mixed before being returned to the tank.

I had the space to do it and it works very well for me!
 
Tank looks great but i'm calling BS on the last line of your post. No tank with that much potential is ever juuuuuuust about finished.......lol Even when you think you're done you're really not. I really admire the setup you have in your fish room and the amount of thought and planning that went into it. Really inspiring to those of us that are relatively new to reefing. Can't wait to see this tank in a year so keep us posted on how it progresses and fills in.
 
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Thanks guys! TankJunkie, I hope to be MOSTLY done with equipment changes for a while. And spend my time inside with the tank. Will be constantly changing things in there attempting to fill it up!

Side Note: The reason I was able to use a brass solenoid valve and hose spigot is because it was before the RODI system. I'm sure most of you already know, but for those of you who don't, never use brass hardware or fittings near your reef tank!
 
Love the FR. Cant wait to build one myself when me and the wife get into a new house in a few years. Lot of great ideas I'll be "borrowing" in these large tank builds for my own
 
Nice setup!

I am ver intrigued with your Reef Filler Twin Head Pump. I have seen those before. How do you program it?

Send me a pm with what you want for your MP40's.
 
Ya mine was the 225 Pro. I believe the 'pro' denotes that it is predrilled and comes with and overflow box. Mine was predrilled with (3) 1" holes for drains and (2) 3/4" holes for returns.

Mine did not come with a plumbing kit and I was not aware that DSA offered them?
Regardless I would not be interested in one since I implemented the Bean Overflow System.
 
Nice setup!

I am ver intrigued with your Reef Filler Twin Head Pump. I have seen those before. How do you program it?

Send me a pm with what you want for your MP40's.

The Reef Filler pumps have a knob that adjusts output.

You can hook it up to a mechanical/digital timer and program it when to come on or you can hook it up to a controller such as a Neptune Apex as I did.

It has two separate heads that each have a dial that allow you to calibrate it and match the flow rates.
 
That is the pro system and they do offer the plumbing kit. I'm not exactly sure how its set up, suppose ill just have to wait and see.
 
Very nice and clean setup. Are you using the reef-filler for auto water changes or continuous water changes?
 
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