Nitrate control devices

I believe it is around 6.5:1 actually (from NASA and Cornell studies) but i have heard 6:1 and 8:1. Not sure it matters too much (just get some blue/violet in there) and who knows if that ratio is lumens, radiant flux, PAR??? But adding blue adds strength/girth to the algae, doesn't necessarily add growth in terms of weight, but it definitely holds on to the screen better.
 
What if gentlemen the whole process of nitrates in ATS doesn't work that way you see it.
Before I say anything I just don't want to upset anyone.
Biggest question is if Green stuff really taking out the all Nitrates?
Or maybe ATS helps nitrates exit from the water doing filtration process and water movement is responsible for the nitrates removal?
Personally I think that explain why some systems are more successful than another(open environment).
By adding small fan to ATS can We speed up the whole process?
Ty
 
There is no debate that algae uptakes nitrate as it grows. Any nitrate that would exit the water through water movement would only be doing so in the form of nitrogen gas, in which case something else has performed a denitrification step.

There is evidence suggesting that air movement across a scrubber screen increases growth (as well as evap and cooling, depending on air temp) but this extra growth is generally attributed to the additional availability of CO2 in the air moving across the screen. This incidentally is the claimed benefit of the upflow algae scrubber (UAS) that uses bubbles to create water movement and air (O2 and CO2) exchange
 
I'm sorry I have to disagree.
Only way this system will work if amount of screen in ATS Will be greater than the amount of water is in your system(inch^2).
Ty
 
I'm sorry I have to disagree.
Only way this system will work if amount of screen in ATS Will be greater than the amount of water is in your system(inch^2).
Ty

Have you ever ran an algae scrubber?

The current methodology is that the screen is sized roughly based on the amount you feed, not water volume, as feeding is the only (relevant) input that directly correlates (on average) to the necessary filtration required. It used to be based on tank size until people started noticing problems with growth being solved by feeding more, and on larger tanks with "undersized" scrubbers that were performing well. Also the feeding-based screen sizing guideline was based on fluorescent lighting sources and I have started to notice that with high-intensity (or density) LED scrubbers, you can get more growth/filtration than the current guideline.
 
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water movement is responsible for the nitrates removal?

I evaporate as much as 5 gallons per day in the summer with a 6' tall skimmer fed over a 4' weir with a dart pump and a 2000 GPH closed loop pump. I have more water movement and surface agitation in a 75 gallon tank than most folks have in a 275 gallon tank.

Sorry my friend but "water movement" is not the mechanism that is responsible for nitrate reduction :)


Floyd: Contact me via email if you don't mind. I have a gmail addy :)
 
I evaporate as much as 5 gallons per day in the summer with a 6' tall skimmer fed over a 4' weir with a dart pump and a 2000 GPH closed loop pump. I have more water movement and surface agitation in a 75 gallon tank than most folks have in a 275 gallon tank.

Sorry my friend but "water movement" is not the mechanism that is responsible for nitrate reduction :)
Very impressive reef set up you have.
"I evaporate as much as 5 gallons per day"wow that's a lot of water.
Just curious if this is caused by your ATS system?
I have 150Gl tank (mp60,mp40) large skimmer(250Gl)
Bio Reactor (1350g/h pump) and I only use 5 Gl every two weeks.
:)
 
Who said I had a skimmer?

I guess before I respond to the other stuff...

I'd have to say, you did. A 6' one at that. ;) Wasn't assuming, just was stating you have a skimmer :) Do you have some pics you could share with us of your set up? Sounds like you do have a very impressive reef set up! :)
 
I have only had an ATS for 6 months or so.

My only means of cooling is (was) forced evaporation by the use of an array of fans. On the worst of days, when the fans ran 24/7 to keep the tank at 85F, I could approach 5 gallons of evaporation. On an average day, it was well over a gallon. The fans were controlled by a Ranco temperature controller and placed over the display and sump.

Nonetheless, water movement is not what brought my nitrates down, it was the ATS :)
 
I guess you could not like the word "rules", and that's fine with me :facepalm:. But to be honest the word "guideline" is used much more... Regardless, all equipment people use differs slightly so using the guidelines and HELPING OTHERS adjust their system and fine tune it seems straight forward to me. I am sure you can understand how (if you aren't reading the words on the screen) you may have not understood why we would be telling someone to adjust something that would differ from the "rules".

If you can't hang with being a pioneer, blazing a trail and learning as we go... then its not for you. The algae scrubber is a collected effort... not great for "busy facebookers"...

If you followed the thread, the sizing has only changed once in the time the thread was started. The air bubbler design, is clearly a design "alternate" and is not meant to replace the waterfall design. (In fact in my post describing it, even used the word "alternate design".)

Besides we, I should say I don't want the help of people who's attention can't be focused enough to do this anyway... :uhoh3:

I have to run quick I think someone just updated their facebook status!!!

That was impressive, bashing me while I obviously support and use an ATS. I thought that wouldve shown I'm kinda on your side. You did however prove half of my point. When someone posts thier ATS and the resident self experts bash them and say NO! The current (all but manditory) guidelines are this, while you even admit it is an inventive and initiative taking project. Some people that are trying different things and not following the "guidelines" by you and the other self experts since you "I don't want the help of people who's attention can't be focused enough to do this anyway". To some of us this is a hobby and not a full time life, sorry. So I guess we should be quite, fall in line, not offer our setups since youre not interested, and I am the one that confused guidelines and rules. Sounds alot like you make the rules with your intent there.
 
khowst, 2 posts later he said this:

Sorry, after rereading this, it may have come off a bit strong.

As far as my opinion on your post to which he was responding:

I think what shy's people away from ATS's is the use of the "rules". I've only returned to the hobby about a year ago.... My past experience was with the utterly super advanced undergravel filters.

When I built my tank I elected to do an ATS, and as my bioload grew upgraded to a skimmer/ATS. Anyways in that time I have seen countless threads where the "rule" is a screen this size, lighting is "exactly" this and this many hours, only to see the self made experts change thier minds every couple months on screen sizing based on gallons, based on GPH, based on feeding in cubes, to even now where the recommendation is to build an insump screen with an air bubbler.

Is an ATS or any other piece of equipment the absolute end all bee all final answer the best thing? Nope, but like everyone has already said just another piece of kit. Hell, even the evil "nitrate factory" canister filter can be a great piece if used and maintained correctly.

Is the ATS an evolving piece of kit? Sure, absolutely. The downfall as I see it is in terminology. Use of the word "rule" and "must be". You have to remember peoples attention and memory span now adays is about as long as a facebook update. So when you say the sky is blue this month, and green the next simply based on the rule of cause I said so it will detract from you audience fanbase.

the algae scrubber is an evolving beast, I guess you could say. If you were to start reading threads now, get halfway through and them start building, you might get frustrated when you get to the point where the screen size change took place (which is why I put the pertinent posts in my signature, but not everyone looks there).

I agree with the "rules" and "must be" comment, to some extent. It was likely the change in the screen size that affected the most people (like in the above paragraph) for a good number of months, but it was a change for the better, and made a lot more sense - it also meant a lot more people could use a scrubber, because of the requirement for less room.

Not much has changed w/r to lighting, the guideline is still the same, with the exception that you can increase intensity (wattage) and use less hours, which also saves replacing lamps as often. It originally was suggested as a method to help power through high-nutrient systems with bad algae problems, LR soaked with N and P, etc. Then it was found that it could be used all the time because you could get algae growing better in a shorter period of time. This has led me to try out LEDs in a much higher concentration than the originally recommended minimum (which was recommended by me, actually, after querying as many people who ran LED scrubbers as I could).

There definitely are some hard-and-fast rules that have not changed much in years, mainly screen roughness and flow rate per inch of screen. The screen sizing based on GPH, I don't know where that comment comes from, except that if you are dealing with a certain flow rate and trying to size a screen accordingly you size the width based on the flow/35 to get inches of width.

The in-sump or in-tank UAS (upflow algae scrubber) is a new concept and IMO experimental, as no experiments have really been done to prove or dispute it's effectiveness versus a waterfall scrubber. It is an alternative for those with small tanks, sumpless tanks, not enough space, etc. Seems to me that it's geared towards small FW tanks personally.

Anyways, the Algae Scrubber has advantages and disadvantages, just like every other form of filtration.

PS I came back into this hobby in 2009 after a 5+ yr hiatus and started up my FW tank again with a UGF...and quickly ditched it once I got into the forums!! So I feel you!
 
Ok where do I start with this thread. I suppose one would expect me to start shouting how it's all magic and you are non-believers, and here's some tasty algae flavored Kool-Aid, drink it! Drink it NOW!

And one would not be disappointed.

I find this extremely humorous that someone would notice how there is a group of "followers" of some technique, and label them as a bunch of yahoos like this.

I've labeled no one "a bunch of yahoos". In fact, I believe I'm the only one in this thread that's been flamed in such a manner.


I run across this type of situation every now and again and I still have a hard time passing up on posting. it just irks me that someone would scoff at another group so easily.

I don't "scoff" at those that are misled. However, I do "scoff" at those that would make false statements in an attempt to lead people into believing something that they themselves don't understand.

you may have been reading some thread from a couple years ago, and you may have been reading a bunch of Santa Monica posts where he was jack slapping those who defied him then putting them on his "ignore" list. If that's all you read, then I understand where you're coming from. I read many of those too, found them humorous and yes in some cases offensive but I was still curious, and was able to read between the BS lines and flame wars and find out what this technique was really about.

I was studying this type of thing long before Santa Monica came along. I found nothing educational in those threads. Not even between the "BS lines".


Basically what is comes down to is this: you cannot compare any algae scrubber or any algae turf scrubber built any longer than about 4-1/2 years ago to one that is properly built and maintained using the current techniques. If you are, you are making a completely baseless comparison speaking from a purely scientific perspective.

From a "purely scientific perspective", until evolution has had time to change the reproduction, and other biological processes, of the organisms that are cultured on such devices, there will be no significant change in the way they effect the environment around them.

Also you cannot compare the effectiveness of a dump-style or surge-style or for that matter any horizontal or slanted-angle algae scrubber to a vertical screen, double-lit waterfall scrubber constructed using current guidelines. There is no comparison.

Sure there is. The only thing you've managed to do is grow the same quantity of nuisance algae in a smaller area. You have not changed the way these organisms effect the environment around them. You have not put evolution on a fast track, or created genetically altered organisms. You're culturing nuisance algae just as all the ATS's that came before, and the ATS's that are designed differently than yours. Your ATS is not magic. It will produce the same negative effects as all the ATS's designed by Dr. Adey, or any other. Until you change the organism you're culturing, you've made no significant change.

I'm not talking magic here, talking science. Almost every negative comment and connotation about algae scrubbers in this thread is based on experiences people had with old, outdated scrubber construction techniques.

No..... It has very little to do with the "construction techniques".

The comment about people taking a "step backward" to a technique from the 80s and 90s just shows how this technique is still absurdly misunderstood by some.

Now I agree with something you said. This technique is absurdly misunderstood by some.


Yeah we all figured that even though everyone came to a general consensus back then that the technique didn't work, everyone must have missed something, so we decided to try the exact same technique. Except this time, we sprinkled pixie dust in the tank and BAM it worked. In case you can't sense it, that's sarcasm.

We ran many, many, many different types, or styles, of ATS's back in the day. It was not the hardware around the ATS's that led to their failure. It was the life cycle/biology of the organisms being cultured. You are still culturing nuisance algae, so your ATS has no significant difference from the ones we ran back in the day.


Just because something didn't work quite right 30 years ago doesn't mean it didn't have a valid basis. Here's a short list of things that nobody tried before 5 years ago:

- high-flow vertical screen with lights on both sides

This may or may not have been tried back then. (I actually think it was though. I need to dig through some old FAMA magazines to be sure though.) Paul B., how good is your memory on this????:confused: Regardless......It is irrelevant. One square foot of algae growth is one square foot of algae growth.


- closed-box scrubbers for encouraging 3D growth

I'm not even sure what that is supposed to mean, or how it's claimed to be beneficial. If you have one square inch of algae growth, you have one square inch of algae growth. Flip it, twist it, turn it upside down, and you still have one square inch of algae growth.

- high-intensity fluorescent lighting (CFL and T5HO)

LOL..... What do you think we lit our scrubbers and tanks with back in the day???? Kerosene lanterns????:lol: We had MH, VHO, CFL....... We were in no shortage of high intensity lighting.



- algae growth spectrum specific color temperatures
- most recently, LEDs

We did not have LED's. We did have "growth spectrum" lighting though. We had "Growlux" florescent lights. We also had low kelvin temp MH's that grow algae like crazy. Do you have any documentation to showing that LED's are superior to the lighting we used back in the day?????

it doesn't seem like much, but these simple advances in technology and implementation made all the difference in the world when it comes to the type of algae grown and rates of growth, both of which directly affect the efficiency and efficacy of algae scrubbers in general.

What species of algae did I grow on my scrubber back in the day??? What species are you growing on yours today???? If you don't know the answers to these questions, how do you know you're growing a species I didn't? How do you know your algae is superior to the algae I grew? What makes your algae so superior?? Did you create a new species of algae? The truth is that I may have been growing a different species than the hobbyist down the street, and I may have grown the exact same species you grow today. Many different species have been grown on ATS's. You have absolutely no basis to make such a ridiculous claim.

Everyone has the right to make assumptions about things they don't know everything about. I do that quite often,

:lol: I guess so. :lol:

but I make an attempt to at least draw what I consider to be a logical conclusion, then I (usually) follow my conclusion with an statement stating to some effect that I may not have a clue what I am talking about.

Had you done that here, I wouldn't have felt so compelled to post.

Perhaps some of you should follow this method before you make assumptions, such as several of the ones on here this thread that are presented as fact.

:lol: The irony of that statement kills me. :lol:
 
From a "purely scientific perspective", until evolution has had time to change the reproduction, and other biological processes, of the organisms that are cultured on such devices, there will be no significant change in the way they effect the environment around them.

So still would love to read these studies that you seem to recall so well... where it explains how life growing on "such devices" has a negative effect...
 
That's where you're wrong, again. The conclusion you draw that the biology is what makes Algae Scrubbers inefficient is based on Red Turf Algae as a mechanism, which is, again, the old method.

Where do you get this stuff from? What makes you think we were all growing "red turf algae" on our scrubbers back in the day???? We did the same thing you do today. We lit the ATS, blasted water through it, and what ever grew, grew. I may have been growing the exact same species you're growing today. My neighbor may have been growing a different species. Which is still true today. The algae growing on your ATS may be different that the algae growing on someone else's ATS. You have absolutely no basis to make claims that your algae is somehow superior to the algae we grew back in the day.

The algae grown on a modern algae scrubber can, depending on the specific tank and construction of the scrubber, be comprised of several different strains of algae.

And this is different from older ATS's, how??? We were just as likely to grow "different strains of algae" as you are today.

Specifically, algae grows in reaction to intense light. Very intense light, more intense that most people assume they need to be.

We understood the importance of lighting to plant growth long before ATS's were thought of. Providing adequate lighting was never a problem.

All algae produces DOCs. Most people hear that term and immediately think "BAD!!" again this is based on a generalization of this term to mean stuff that damages your system, but this is not necessarily the case as some are good and some are bad. I haven't studied this factor enough to give you all the explanation, but for purposes of this discussion I don't need to.

So why are you admittedly making statements about things you have not studied??? Shouldn't you know what you're talking about before making such statements???

If you attempt to grow algae on an algae scrubber with too little light, the type of algae grown generally becomes darker, and this type of inadequate growth produces a higher level of DOC.

Please provide documentation to support this statement.

Plants require energy from light to produce organic carbon. Generally speaking, the more light/energy the plant has, the more organic carbon it can produce. Which is the complete opposite of what you just said.

It still absorbs DOC (N and P that we test for are in this category),

Again...... This statement is not accurate. Please do your research, and have a basic understanding of the subject you're talking about, before making such statements. These statements only serve to mislead and confuse others. You are obviously making things up as you go along, and adding to the pool of misinformation in this hobby.

but it doesn't as efficiently absorb other DOCs that we don't want in the system.

What are these "other DOCs" you're talking about?



When you provide algae with the proper spectrum and intensity level of light,

We did this.

along with proximity of light to growth substrate,

We did this.

screen material, roughness of screen material,

We utilized many different rough substrates to grow algae.


and appropriate flow rate of system water over the screen, etc,

We experimented with many different flow rates. There are so many variables associated with this that it's virtually impossible to come up with the appropriate flow rate. The conditions are simply to varied from system to system for such a determination.

the algae grows lush and green,

We grew lush green algae. Getting the algae to grow was never a problem. Learning how to keep it from growing was a much larger challenge.

and this type of algae does an excellent job of absorbing the harmful DOCs that are otherwise produced to a higher degree by algae that is not provided with these conditions.

Again, I'll ask for documentation to back this up, and an explanation of what DOCs you're talking about.

Furthermore, I already know several of the studies you are referring to that speak of harmful compounds produced by algae, and they deal with red turf algae (which is not the kind grown on a vertical scrubber) that are in direct contact with corals. One study showed a detriment upon direct contact, but when a permeable membrane screen was used, there was no damage (i.e. "toxins" causing damage was not happening). I expect you will bring up "yellowing of the water" too, which was due to not being able to remove the screen from the system to clean and rinse (not a problem now).

There have been many, many, many studies that show marine algae can, and do, produce toxins. Toxins that can be effective, and even fatal, to a wide variety of organisms. Including humans. We can not dismiss the potential harm associated with culturing such organisms in a confined system with some of the most environmentally sensitive creatures on the planet. Like the SPS corals the OP is asking about.

And yes, the "yellowing of the water" is another problem associated with ATS's. It has nothing to do with an inability to clean the substrate the algae grows on though. Why would anyone design an ATS that you couldn't clean the substrate on???? That is the whole idea behind an ATS, and always has been. Grow algae and harvest it to remove nutrients. I've never heard of anyone designing, or running an ATS they could not clean the substrate on. That doesn't even make sense.:wildone:
 
So still would love to read these studies that you seem to recall so well... where it explains how life growing on "such devices" has a negative effect...

Like Sprung and Delbeek said in their book, the more algae you have growing in a system, the more algae you grow.
This is due to the efficiency that plants insure the survival of the next generation, and their ability to recycle nutrients. Plants don't simply produce seeds and spores that are then left on their own. Plants sacrifice themselves, or portions of themselves, to provide nourishment (like nitrogen and phosphorous) to the next generation. Trees drop their leaves, grasses die, and individual turf algae die or fragment. These pieces of solid organic matter decompose, releasing the bound nutrients they hold, and nourish/fertilize the next generation. This is the process that takes place throughout the plant kingdom, and when we run an ATS. The adult algae growing on an ATS utilizes the energy from light and the nutrients in the water to produce solid organic material. High flow rates wash over the adult algae, and disperse much of this solid organic material throughout the system. Much of it will settle, where it rots, and returns the nutrients it hold back into the water, ensuring the survival of the next generation, or fueling more algae growth. This is why you see more algae growing in the photos on Dr. Adey's site than coral. This is why the photos I posted show such prolific algae growth. This is a method of retaining a given level of nutrients within the system, even if most of it is bound in organic form. It is a method that, over time, increases the overall nutrient level of the system. It is a very poor method to obtain a low nutrient environment, like those that stony corals prosper in.

The only feasible way, I can think of, to break this cycle, without removing the ATS itself, wold be to be extra diligent at removing this solid organic matter before it has a chance to break down. So...... Now we have a system where we must go through the labor and expense of replacing GAC fast enough to keep the water clear, and hopefully control some of the toxins produced by the alage, and we have to work harder at removing organic matter produced by the ATS. At what point do we say this system is far from anything we could consider efficient, so it needs to return to the junk pile where we got it?????? Personally, I don't want to spend money to run lights on a system that's going to make me spend more money on GAC, and work harder to keep my system clean.


Here's a link showing the reproductive portion of the solid organic matter produced by marine algae. This doesn't take into account the solid matter released by dead or fragmented algae.

https://www.google.com/search?q=alg...a=X&ei=K7QiUI6MNIa29QSX-4CwCQ&ved=0CEcQ_AUoAQ
 
So, you are using the nitrogen cycle to explain why an ATS is bad?

1) organics are INPUT to the system (fish food, dying tissue, etc)
2) algae grows, absorbing organics
3) algae is exported

The result, TOTAL nutrient levels are lower then what is input. They can't "rise" as a result of the ATS or the algae would not have grown. Even if they release 99% of what they uptake (they don't) the net gain of nutrient levels in the system would be lower.

We are not adding algae to the system, we are growing it FROM nutrients already IN the system.

Your logic is as circular as is the nitrogen cycle... Frankly, this discussion has become absurd.

You have discounted evidence of healthy systems running ATSs as "rubber ducky science" and at the same time use that same logic to say examples of unhealthy systems running ATSs are proof that they are bad.

Lets be clear: You have demanded proof that ATS systems are not bad, yet fail to realize that the burden is on you to provide proof that they are bad.
 
EC,

While I can respect your viewpoints and would like to learn more about your experiences of the past, it seems you have made up your mind based on your past experiences and seem pretty closed off to any potential differences between what you did and what many are currently doing. I, however, made the mistake of assuming the experiences you have had based on what I have encountered from others making similar statements.

I can appreciate your wanting to get answers to the posed questions, because it means that you're trying to find out if there is something that has been learned that you didn't already know, and you're asking me to prove it. Well here's what I will admit - I've read many studies in whatever spare time I've had, but with owning a consulting business and having 4 kids at home, I don't have a lot of spare time to really dig deep into this information and I don't have anything bookmarked to whip out and post. So your statements that I should know what I'm talking about before making various statements is only partially applicable in my opinion. I can't reference the information offhand but it doesn't mean that I didn't read it and decide if it was pertinent or not enough to consider or discard when I was learning about scrubbers. Much of the information I read was mind-dulling scientific papers that I read years ago, so I didn't "study" it enough to be able to recall it and give you an explanation which you appear to desire. Sorry I just don't have the time - if I didn't have a full time job and a full time family, I would probably have all the answers - I am the type of person who does want to know this information because I get into this kind of stuff and obsess over it. Unfortunately I don't have the free time to obsess anymore without making my wife very upset LOL.

I have had similar discussions in person and what it comes down to is that I have done enough and seen enough to have what I consider to be a very good grasp on what works and how to make it work. Admittedly, due to lack of obsession time, I don't have all the information that folks such as yourself really want to hear with regards to the precise mechanism that makes it work and why it works the way it does - my knowledge in that respect is much more of a general understanding, so you are correct that some of the statement I made may have overstepped my bounds of recollection and interpretation of what I have read and found to be pertinent.

I do appreciate the fact that you tried many different approaches of this method in the past. It shows that you are/were open to new concepts. The algae scrubber was a new concept to me that I read about after I joined the online community (which didn't really exist when I got out of the hobby 12 years ago) after I got back into the hobby a few years ago. So while you approach this subject with experience from the past, I have been approaching it from only knowing what I have read about the way most people did it in the past compared to how it is done now.

That certainly puts me at a bit of a handicap when it comes to me assuming that you did the same thing - perhaps my mistake. However, a few things you mention piqued my curiosity and other things were telling of you not being aware of a few differences:

- From most of what I have read, yellowing of the water was caused by people removing the algae from the substrate without removing it (substrate) from the system first. It is also caused by the "roots" of the algae dying from lack of light, flow, or both. In the middle of writing this, you posted about the algae life cycle, and mention algae insuring it's own survival by fractionating to decompose and provide the next 'generation' with nutrients. I put to you that if you provide a situation by where the algae grows fast enough and is harvested frequently enough, part of this life cycle can be cut off. Meaning that if you allow the algae to grow at close to the rate at which nutrients are provided via the water flow, and your lighting/etc is set up properly, you will have less of this "death" occurring, and if the algae is harvested before it gets thick enough to start dying, you have significantly reduced the "death" portion of the life cycle. Perhaps I am missing something, but that would explain why what I am doing now seems to work so much better that what others experienced in the past. I have ran an algae scrubber almost exclusively on one particular system for almost 2 years, and when/if I ever pull water out of the system into a white bucket, it is as clear as freshly mixed saltwater. While I have not compared this to, say, water from a tank running ozone or made a before and after comparison of the water before the scrubber was installed vs after, I can say from general experiences with look and smell of water pulled from a system that the algae scrubber does a very good job of keeping the water clean and clear (excluding particulate matter, just talking about color of the water). So I guess my question is that you experienced yellowing of the water and you were removing the substrate from the system to clean/remove the algae, and you were doing so before there was any death of roots, why am I (and almost everyone else currently running algae scrubbers) not experiencing the same thing? Keep in mind that most people running horizontal or even slanted scrubbers have a much, much higher incidence of problems that are typically attributed to ATSs, and this is specifically related to the fact that single sided screens (horizontal, slanted or even vertical (lit on one side)) have a much higher rate of death at the roots due to lack of light. Vertical double-lit screens can go much longer between cleanings before this happens.

- You bring up references to biology of the organisms, type/strain of algae grown, etc. This goes back to my lack of time to obsess, so my answer can only be less specific than what you desire. From my understanding, most older devices were dump-bucket or surge-style scrubbers. I believe that this is what most people who have just a passing knowledge of the old ATSs think of. Those devices, again, from what I understand, were prone to growing the slower-growing red turf algae mainly, because red turf grows well in those conditions, whereas green hair algae does not fare as well. My experiences with this concur with this assumption, because in certain areas of certain scrubber setups I have maintained, I will get red turf growth and it is difficult to scrape off when compared to GHA.

- W/R to lighting: this has been a field I have been involved with outside of the aquarium world more than in (until I got back into the hobby). Specifically I have attended several lighting seminars that were focused on commercial/architectural/industrial subjects, and while that doesn't directly translate, it has a strong parallel to aquarium & plant growth lighting w/r to technological advances. While I don't doubt that there was available light of good intensity and I don't doubt that you were able to grow large amounts of algae, the lumen/watt output of various light sources has steadily increased over the past few decades. This means more intensity using less lamps, and when proximity of lamps needed to achieve a certain lumen level, you reach a point of diminishing returns with respect to reflectors being too small to maintain efficiency. Smaller and/or more efficient sources such as T5HO allow more efficient use of the light. When it comes to LEDs, there is more than enough data from the plant growth community to show that the levels of light provided by LEDs in the specific spectrum needed in order to grow plants is in a world of it's own, both from a power usage standpoint and from a growth output standpoint. When it comes to algae scrubbers, this again is more of a parallel course than a direct correlation. I can't say with definitive certainty that one particular LED spectrum performs better than another when it comes to algae (because there has been no study that I have found that directly correlates to what we are doing), but based experiences by myself and others, it certainly seems to be that the case with plants is the case with algae - it grows very well under LEDs, and the potential level of intensity is in a class of it's own, due to not having to deal with reflectors to re-direct the light from the back of the lamp around to the front.

- W/R to types of algae. Really what I was referring to is the color and consistency, as I will try to explain in more detail. I am not claiming to have created anything new. I am also not claiming to know exactly what species everyone is growing. It just may be that via the recent surge in use of this method and the speed of information sharing today has allowed more collaboration of this information through trial and error, and it just very well be that this allowed those of us using algae scrubbers to really narrow down exactly what conditions are needed to make the growth as optimal as possible, while minimizing or eliminating the problems of the past. So I do not have documentation to support this, however I do have the collective experiences of countless others whom I and others have assisted in troubleshooting various issues with the algae scrubbers. There is a direct relationship to the amount of algae grown and the amount of food provided to the system. There is also a relationship to how this algae grows, depending on the size of the substrate, and the duration and intensity of the light provided to it, and the flow rate of water provided to it. Keep in mind that this is mainly applicable to the vertical double-lit scrubber. What happens is that if you have too much substrate and too much light when compared to the amount of feeding, the algae tends to turn a yellow or caramel color and it rather gooey to the touch. If you take the exact same setup (system/tank, etc) and more properly match the screen size, lighting duration & intensity, flow rate and feeding, the screen will grow mainly GHA. If you take the same system and provide too much food compared to the capacity of the scrubber, it tends to grow a darker brown algae, and in extreme cases (poorly maintained, high nutrient tanks) it can grow black and oily. The darker algae and yellow algae tend to block light to the substrate, causing the "roots" to detach and release algae (and likely toxins) into the tank (see previous paragraph). The green growth has less propensity to block light, until it grows very thick. So with this taken into consideration, a square inch of algae does not necessarily equal a square inch of algae. On that subject...

- The 3D enclosed box method is something very different and I do not believe it was ever tried in the past. Basically the vertical screen is in a placed in an enclosure that is open on top (for access) with a drain on the bottom. This allows you to place the light very close while keeping it protected, but the primary effect is that if the chamber is narrow enough when the algae growth becomes thick enough it spreads out horizontally, and when it touches the windows, it traps water and allows the growth to become suspended while still allowing water to flow by fast enough to minimize boundary layer effects. The act of suspending the algae in this fashion allows better penetration of light to the base substrate, keeping the roots alive longer.

- DOCs. I can't remember where I read it, but basically if you compare the levels of harmful compounds produced by algae under high-intensity, short duration photoperiods versus lower-intensity, longer duration photoperiods, the latter will tend to grow more brownish or darker and produce overall less efficient results, while the former will tend to grow more green algae, until the photoperiod becomes too long in which case the algae turns yellow/rubbery. Again, this has to do with type of growth and the light-blocking tendencies of that growth, which correlates to roots dying and thus the problems associated with ATSs of the past (generally). Also GHA filters better than the other extremes, for many of the above reasons.

- N and P - written too quickly. What I meant was that N and P are absorbed by just about any algae that you can get to grow.

- What do you mean when you wrote "We grew lush green algae. Getting the algae to grow was never a problem. Learning how to keep it from growing was a much larger challenge."? Keeping it from growing where? In the tank?

Over the past couple of years, I have helped many others work through issues they have had with their scrubbers and systems in general so that they are getting the desired results. I can't tell you how many people have told me how quickly their system conditions improved after implementing a scrubber. There is certainly a distribution of experiences, but the vast majority of them are positive. Very rarely do I come across someone who had a bad experience. Occasionally I come across someone who tried it but just preferred another method over it. In terms of the ratio of positive to negative experiences that I have seen, current users of algae scrubbers on average seem pretty satisfied with the method.

You do make a valid point about long-term issues. But who is to say that some of these issues have been eliminated due to current practices?

And, while I have to agree that you see tons of algae in Dr. Adey's tanks, why is it that I have no such algae growing in my system, and very rarely have had any of any significance? Why is is that countless people using this method today have eradicated algae out of their tanks on a consistent basis? This is why I keep going back to saying that there indeed are major differences in the means and methods of yesterday and today.

So all in all, you state that back in the day, you tried pretty much everything that is being tried today. After reading this, do you still feel this is the case? Can you at least accept the fact that, at least based on the circumstantial evidence, something is being done better now?
 
Like Sprung and Delbeek said in their book, the more algae you have growing in a system, the more algae you grow.

Does that really make sense to you? Really? Like, that in your head, this is your understanding of algae?

As others have said, the "method" in which Sprung and Delbeek used for their algae scrubber is different from how the modern method maintains its scrubber, in addition to design. As we all know ANY filter method NOT properly maintained will fail. The following things "I believe" lead to the method we have today...

1) It was discovered the surging mechanism wasn't needed, something Dr Adey thought was of major importance... Just producing rapid random flow simplified the construction and increased filtering time. (slot tube construction)

2) The harvest schedule for the traditional 70's, Dr Adey bump bucket design was around 3 to 4 weeks and in some cases longer. The current design harvest schedule is weekly, never allowing the algae life cycle to get past the first or second stages... Also the current design allows the algae screen to be removed entirely from the system. Harvested, rinsed, and replaced into the system... Preventing yellow water, believe me, I tested this and got yellow water to come and go (using the same water bucket test Floyd described). Rinsing the screen before replacing it back into the system.

Why this makes sense to me is, tangs and other algae eating fish "transfer" nutrients from the reef by eat this algae that in nature is being consumed and preventing corals for being smothered.

"The reason seemed clear: abundant fish. When coral bleaches, seaweed can grow out of control, stifling reef recovery. But fish eat the algae, keeping it from smothering the coral. Because fish populations had been protected here, the reefs remained surprisingly resilient even after suffering one of the worst bleaching events ever recorded."
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/01/phoenix-islands/stone-text/3

When I harvest my algae scrubber it simulates tangs or other fish consuming algae and releasing the "nutrients in another part of the ocean"

3) Lighting on both sides... This changes the type of algae b/c of higher light intensity, so we have created a place in which algae has to earn its right to grow here...

4) all these changes lead to the slot design, in which the water must "ride" the algae down the screen, increasing contact time for the water/algae...

All these things have been proven to me by first hand experience with my own tank. Which from its start has only had an algae scrubber as its filtration...

NO other filtration maintains BOTH nitrates and phosphates at these levels, at this rate, none... Which cant even be rivaled by the use of live rock itself.
 
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Why does it matter which tool(s) we use to get the job done? If you use WCs to have a balanced system great, use a skimmer great, fuge great, ATS great, a hands off approach well that can work too or a combination of these then great for you. Be happy and enjoy your tank.

My tool box has many tools that can be used for the same purpose but I try and choose the right tool for the job.

I can use a hammer or a monkey wrench to drive a nail into a board but one does a better job than the other. I guess I could use the hammer to drive a screw in too but I would rather use an electric drill for that purpose though I bet I could use the drill to hammer the nail in.

Why is it so hard for people to accept it when someone posts I had this issue and I did this treatment and now my issue is gone? The issue may happen again and it is up to the tank owner to deal with it and re-balance the system.

It isn't like someone is saying 1+1=3 though there have been some of those threads here in the past.

Though this hobby is structured around science and most of our discussions are based upon observations with some quantifiable data such as nitrate levels before and after a treatment, it isn't like some lab exercise for chemistry class where you do steps 1 - 5 and get a product and everyone else in the lab has the same pretty blue solution. If it was, we would all have TOTMs level tanks and no problems would ever happen.

Again why do so many of these discussion take a left turn and have nothing to do with the original focus?
 
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