No one can figure this out so far........
- Thread starter luv2dive
- Start date
So you have a TDS meter and it was reading 0 ppm on the RO/DI water?
And could it be a water problem if I have been doing so many water changes?
How many of what percentage? Even 10 ten percent changes would not solve a significant poison problem.
Is there a test that can tell me if there is just traces of copper?
You can find a lab to do low levels of copper. I've never used them, but ENC claims to be able to do it for reefers:
www.enclabs.com
And could it be a water problem if I have been doing so many water changes?
How many of what percentage? Even 10 ten percent changes would not solve a significant poison problem.
Is there a test that can tell me if there is just traces of copper?
You can find a lab to do low levels of copper. I've never used them, but ENC claims to be able to do it for reefers:
www.enclabs.com
if this started about 8 months ago...... did something in the house change? how close is the tank to your bathroom? kitchen? did your wife change cleaning products, hairspray? if the air intake for your skimmer is close to anything like that could that be the problem? i think i might be better to find what changed 8 months ago. lighting did you add a lot at once? if your tank did great for 3 years then died is the sandbed full of toxins? (if you have one) with all the nitrate and phosphate you have do you have a bad algae problem? and are all your tests the same after your water changes as they were when you started or, is that what they are now? if thtas your readings after 3 weeks of 1/3 changes your water must have been real bad.
Marty
Marty
boxfishpooalot
Active member
Perhaps the best way to solve this problem is to get a detailed report first on how the corals looked when they died. Were the corals loosing flesh slowly? Or fast? Did they bleach?
How long did it take for the corals to die?
How long did it take for the corals to die?
If the alkalinity is OK, there is no problem with pH causing carbonate/bicarbonate to become unavailable if the pH is not above about 8.6.
A calcium level of 500ppm is not really very high. Not high enough to cause any real problem.
A calcium level of 500ppm is not really very high. Not high enough to cause any real problem.
Randy, the TDS meter is reading 001 out of the RO/DI. I have been doing about a 25 or 30 percent water change once a week.
I just checked out the lab web site. $260.00 is a bit steap for a water test. It might be cheaper to just start over from scratch.
freed, I tested the alk and it was good according to the color strip.
marty , good questions but my set up is in the basement. The air intake is closed up under the cabinet. As far as lighting, I added the MH lights at once but why would that kill snails and sand stars? They don't care about more light do they? BTW, the test snail died yesterday. I put it in the tank thurs and dead by sat morn. But the clam and star pollop rock still look healthy. What kind of toxins could be in the sand bed all of the sudden? I vacuum the sand every time I do the water change and no algae problem at all. The trates and phos are lower now also. When things started slowely dying, the phos and trates were very low. This is why I can't figure out what is happening.
If there are small traces of copper can I ever get it out with water and charcoal changes? I have also been using Magnavore PURA Filtration Pads. They are also supposed to take out trace metals.
I just checked out the lab web site. $260.00 is a bit steap for a water test. It might be cheaper to just start over from scratch.
freed, I tested the alk and it was good according to the color strip.
marty , good questions but my set up is in the basement. The air intake is closed up under the cabinet. As far as lighting, I added the MH lights at once but why would that kill snails and sand stars? They don't care about more light do they? BTW, the test snail died yesterday. I put it in the tank thurs and dead by sat morn. But the clam and star pollop rock still look healthy. What kind of toxins could be in the sand bed all of the sudden? I vacuum the sand every time I do the water change and no algae problem at all. The trates and phos are lower now also. When things started slowely dying, the phos and trates were very low. This is why I can't figure out what is happening.
If there are small traces of copper can I ever get it out with water and charcoal changes? I have also been using Magnavore PURA Filtration Pads. They are also supposed to take out trace metals.
You can get a lot of copper out using skimming and carbon and water changes. Some may be bound to rocks and sand, however.
Of course, we still don't know that the problem is copper.
Of course, we still don't know that the problem is copper.
Randy, very true, since I really value your opinion, should I consider discarding all of the rock and sand, draing the system and starting a new cycle over again with all new rock and sand? Would It be worth my while instead of the headaches I'm dealing with now?
A friend brought over some zenias yesterday, in the afternoon and they are almost dead today. I also just finished a 1/3 water change this morn. I changed the carbon too. I just tested for copper again and still nothing. The tube is totally clear. I'm about to lose my mind!
A friend brought over some zenias yesterday, in the afternoon and they are almost dead today. I also just finished a 1/3 water change this morn. I changed the carbon too. I just tested for copper again and still nothing. The tube is totally clear. I'm about to lose my mind!
I'd first try what I suggested above:
One suggestion is to set up a 10 gallon QT tank with new artificial salt water and maybe some new live rock (possibly just borrowed from someone) and see if you can keep a snail or crab in it.
Assuming that works, swap in your current tank water and possibly some existing live rock and see what happens. That will show it it is a water problem, or something else.
One suggestion is to set up a 10 gallon QT tank with new artificial salt water and maybe some new live rock (possibly just borrowed from someone) and see if you can keep a snail or crab in it.
Assuming that works, swap in your current tank water and possibly some existing live rock and see what happens. That will show it it is a water problem, or something else.
Yes, that's a good idea on the polyfilter. 
gussy, I have been using the drop style kit for copper, phosphates and calcium testing. I have been using the test strips for just ammonia, trates, trites, and alk.
gudwyn, I have been using a certain style of poly filter but they're not white. They are black and are supposed to remove metals. I can try a white one and see what happens.
thackray, I used a fluke and put one end on a round outlet ground and the other in the tank. The meter was reading .003 and it was the same for the tank and sump. was this right?
gudwyn, I have been using a certain style of poly filter but they're not white. They are black and are supposed to remove metals. I can try a white one and see what happens.
thackray, I used a fluke and put one end on a round outlet ground and the other in the tank. The meter was reading .003 and it was the same for the tank and sump. was this right?
thackray
Premium Member
Luv2dive,
Those reading should eliminate an electrical problem. If you want to make one more measurement, put the meter on ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œACââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and put both probes in the tank at opposite ends. If you are in the 0.001 to 0.003 volt range that's indicative of no electrical problems.
Phil
Those reading should eliminate an electrical problem. If you want to make one more measurement, put the meter on ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œACââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and put both probes in the tank at opposite ends. If you are in the 0.001 to 0.003 volt range that's indicative of no electrical problems.
Phil
bigfoot610
New member
one note polyfill and commercial filter pads release large amouts of po4 into your system lose the test strips they are never accurate take your water to your best LFS and have them test everything i lost some corals due to a lack of iodine and magnesium iodine and iodide showed up at 0 mag was extremely low too alk was 6 dkh and ca is about 600-640 but im still kinda a noob on water chemestry the tests were the best 20$ i ever spent now things are returning to normal...i kinda wondered why after a month with switching to halides i didnt get even 1 new zoa to grow or after 11 months zero corraline growth check everything with good test kits and loose the polyester filters the are horrible! you can test them though cut a piece and put it in a test tube and let it sit for a hour with fresh new IO saltwater and then run your po4 test its actually quite interesting to see usually sky rockets off the chart just my 2 cents good luck
Luke
Luke
