Reefaquariumnut
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North Dakota Mini-Ocean
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Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
To answer the "spider" question...first and foremost the spider was designed to diffuse the waterflow throughout the tank without drilling a bunch of holes on the bottom of the tank. Each spider leg has (7) holes that are equipt with loc-line and a nozzle. This way i can plug the ones I am not using and have the capability to change my aquascaping without regard to any holes on the bottom of the tank (other than the drains). with all that said, basically it boils down to having more flexibility with this application than other "closed loops".
glassbox-design
New member
Just my opinion so take it as that:
The overall shape of the structure is actually quite nice, but I feel there are too many pieces "stacked" upon one another, almost like bricks or tile. You do want the pieces to work and connect with one another, but not while filling too many gaps and voids. Also the channels you've made (which are very nice) seem a bit tight. Once corals grow they may be eliminated.
If you look at the lines and placement of most of the rocks they are perfectly flat. Look at the shadows of created by each rock to give you an idea. If one were to draw them in with red lines you would see a lot of parallel, flat, red lines
I also feel like there is a bit too much rock. There are many smaller rocks that are "filling" in that could be eliminated. This will make more room for the corals and lessen the visual "weight" of all that rock.
Take it for what it's worth. You've done a beautiful job on the planning of this system :thumbsup:
The overall shape of the structure is actually quite nice, but I feel there are too many pieces "stacked" upon one another, almost like bricks or tile. You do want the pieces to work and connect with one another, but not while filling too many gaps and voids. Also the channels you've made (which are very nice) seem a bit tight. Once corals grow they may be eliminated.
If you look at the lines and placement of most of the rocks they are perfectly flat. Look at the shadows of created by each rock to give you an idea. If one were to draw them in with red lines you would see a lot of parallel, flat, red lines
I also feel like there is a bit too much rock. There are many smaller rocks that are "filling" in that could be eliminated. This will make more room for the corals and lessen the visual "weight" of all that rock.
Take it for what it's worth. You've done a beautiful job on the planning of this system :thumbsup:
reefkoi
Premium Member
I agree, it looks great with no corals but imagine it all grown in, the valleys will be lost, I'd cut back the rock about 30%-40% and that way in 3 years the shape will look about like it does now when the corals fill in. The spider and waveboxes and everything you guys have done is really awesome, I can't wait to hear how it all works!
C
C
Spooky208
New member
I think it looks great. I aslso think that if you do a lot of acros which I understand will only make up of about 40% of your corals the stepping in the rock will do the colonies justice. Although you would definetly have to keep the backs of colonis trimmed not to bother the corals above on the next step.
matt & pam
Member
Do you have any tunze pumps on the right side of the tank? If so, are they obstructed by the rock? Do the tunze pumps just snug fit in the chambers or will you need to manipulate anything on the tank side to get them out for cleaning?
Matt
Matt
johnnybravo234
New member
Looks good to me. Love the towers.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
There are (6) tunzes in the tank hidden in acrylic boxes covered by rock. No, I do not need to manipulate anything in the tank to remove the tunzes for work. The tunzes are held in place by a tab around the nose and I am thinking also wedging something behind the tunze (that can be easily removed) so it will firmly hold them in place. Lastly, the rocks are strategically place around the tunzes so they can perform to 100% of their capabilities.
what I might do today is "mock-up" some corals and fit them in the tank to see how it might look in 3 years. The struggle for everyone who has commented (which i appreciate) is not being able to see that tank in person. The valleys and open areas which we created will mostly stay that way because of the tremendous flow in those areas. We will try to manipulate coral growth in the directions we want and trim accordingly. We tried to simulate a true reef environment as far as flow patterns and rock structure (which are different in all parts of the world) goes. I think the templated corals will help to see if your comments hold true about everything growing over into the valleys. One of the nicest valley tanks I have seen is Steve Weast's tank. I am not sure if he trims or keep high flow down the middle or what, but he has a ton of corals and yet still has a pretty defined valley between both rock structures.
what I might do today is "mock-up" some corals and fit them in the tank to see how it might look in 3 years. The struggle for everyone who has commented (which i appreciate) is not being able to see that tank in person. The valleys and open areas which we created will mostly stay that way because of the tremendous flow in those areas. We will try to manipulate coral growth in the directions we want and trim accordingly. We tried to simulate a true reef environment as far as flow patterns and rock structure (which are different in all parts of the world) goes. I think the templated corals will help to see if your comments hold true about everything growing over into the valleys. One of the nicest valley tanks I have seen is Steve Weast's tank. I am not sure if he trims or keep high flow down the middle or what, but he has a ton of corals and yet still has a pretty defined valley between both rock structures.
jnarowe
New member
hmmmm. The spider is interesting but I am not sure I would get invloved with loc-line. I don't trust the stuff. This same result could be made with pipe as I did in my tank, but the spider is lower profile. I just hid my pipe with rock but I am intrigued by this innovation.
I am interested to see how this goes for long-term maintenance. Since the spiders are clear, they may accumulate algal matter inside and require cleaning periodically. And the nylon screws will absorb quite a bit of water being submerged like that.
Have you guys done any testing to see how much the bolts swell and whether they can be removed without snapping off after being submerged for an extended period?
I am interested to see how this goes for long-term maintenance. Since the spiders are clear, they may accumulate algal matter inside and require cleaning periodically. And the nylon screws will absorb quite a bit of water being submerged like that.
Have you guys done any testing to see how much the bolts swell and whether they can be removed without snapping off after being submerged for an extended period?
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Jnarowe - Please think about your question before you type it. Honostly, pretty much every question or comment you have had is negative or doesn't make sense.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Closed Loop and sump connection plumbing:
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Scott and I will do some adjusting after all the plumbing is finished and loc-line in place. Once there is sand in place and fish in the tank I feel it will give me a little better vision on how we would like it to end up.
matt & pam
Member
How deep of a sandbed do you plan?
How much flow will you have with the closed loop?
How much flow will you have with the closed loop?
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