Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
LOL, oh the good ol days!! Iv'e had like 7 cars/trucks since then...I actually am a partner in a car lot in Fargo now.
North Dakota Mini-Ocean
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Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
A couple updates:
Both tanks have fully cycled and are growing coral very well. I have added a 4-stage filter system (with UV) to each tank and have hooked up a Tunze top off (SPS tank) and Litermeter III (LPS tank) for dosing. The SPS tank will have the calcuim reactor and kalk reactor for dosing. I am also dosing vodka, amino acids, bioplankton, and reef chili.
I have also added a light to the sump for my Cheato.
Scott has the sumps for the 600 almost ready and has made me a media reactor (carbon) as well. The 6-6201's should be to him shortley so he can fit up some brackets for the tank.
I have started a list of fish and coral for the 600 and I will post that in the next few days. I have budgeted $6k for the startup livestock on this tank (around 80 fish and 110 frags). I have around 20 frags in my tanks now.
Also, I have decided not to do a seahorse tank in the bar area. Logistics and access made this decision easy. The aggressive tank will be housed in the upper floor of the house. The main reason for the changes is because we are having an artist doing a mosaic around the fishtank area (3 walls) as well as some other paintings (3 walls).
Once I get my fishroom in order i will take some more pictures. Thats all I have for now!
Both tanks have fully cycled and are growing coral very well. I have added a 4-stage filter system (with UV) to each tank and have hooked up a Tunze top off (SPS tank) and Litermeter III (LPS tank) for dosing. The SPS tank will have the calcuim reactor and kalk reactor for dosing. I am also dosing vodka, amino acids, bioplankton, and reef chili.
I have also added a light to the sump for my Cheato.
Scott has the sumps for the 600 almost ready and has made me a media reactor (carbon) as well. The 6-6201's should be to him shortley so he can fit up some brackets for the tank.
I have started a list of fish and coral for the 600 and I will post that in the next few days. I have budgeted $6k for the startup livestock on this tank (around 80 fish and 110 frags). I have around 20 frags in my tanks now.
Also, I have decided not to do a seahorse tank in the bar area. Logistics and access made this decision easy. The aggressive tank will be housed in the upper floor of the house. The main reason for the changes is because we are having an artist doing a mosaic around the fishtank area (3 walls) as well as some other paintings (3 walls).
Once I get my fishroom in order i will take some more pictures. Thats all I have for now!
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
That's the reason I got the best, of the best for my tank, and did the research. There are countless tanks that have just as many fish as I am proposing and I have just as good or better equipment that theirs.
jnarowe
New member
Well, I know there are many successful reefs with so many fish, but I just wouldn't try that for quite some time. I imagine you won't bring them all in at once right?! 
Anyway, equipment cannot make up for expert husbandry skills, and I just don't have that level yet. I am working on it though!
Anyway, equipment cannot make up for expert husbandry skills, and I just don't have that level yet. I am working on it though!
reefkoi
Premium Member
You are right, I have phosphate and I'm sure it's linked to my feeding of so many fish My colors are great so I am willing to sacrifice some growth so I can watch all the fish swimming and filling up the tank.
I do run Prodibio and if I didn't I'm guessing the tank wouldn't look very good overall with this many fish.
C
reefkoi
Premium Member
Well, my tank is spotless, the colors are great and the water is very clear. I don't run a refugium, just a good skimmer and strong lights (3-1K watters)
2 years ago when i didn't use Prodibio the tank looked like crap, i added too many fish too fast and everything was brown basically. I can't say the Prodibio id completely responsible but i'm not about to stop using it and risk seeing some film on the rocks or the colors darken.
Anyway I shouldn't be hijacking the thread, but every new large tank runs the risk of being overrun by diatoms, cyano, bryopsis, etc. if things are pushed too fast so maybe my little bit of info will help this awesome build
Anyway, heres a recent picture just for the heck of it.
[/IMG]
2 years ago when i didn't use Prodibio the tank looked like crap, i added too many fish too fast and everything was brown basically. I can't say the Prodibio id completely responsible but i'm not about to stop using it and risk seeing some film on the rocks or the colors darken.
Anyway I shouldn't be hijacking the thread, but every new large tank runs the risk of being overrun by diatoms, cyano, bryopsis, etc. if things are pushed too fast so maybe my little bit of info will help this awesome build
Anyway, heres a recent picture just for the heck of it.
SERVO
New member
Beautiful tank Reefkoi, although I personally would never put over priced mystery solutions into my tank! But I'm not critical of you, your tank does look good, there are however associated horror stories. There is no substitute for good husbandry.
Reefaquariumnut
This set up is really going to be awesome. I wish that you lived around here. I could hook you up with some pretty awesome frags. I would highly recommend the pegging technique to mount your corals. This is a technique that I wasn't familar with when I set up my 400 gallon in 2005, but is really easy, stable and hidden. Most know that displaying corals in a tank can be frustrating trying to place each piece in the exact place and displaying the arrangement you want. Furthermore, nothing is more frustrating than a frag falling off the rocks, getting lost in the tank or falling against another coral and dying/bleaching.
This technique really works great while it gives you a lot of flexibility in your display. To summarize;
1) you don’t always have to have perfectly flat surfaces to place a frag on top of
2) you don’t always have to have perfectly shaped gaps between other rocks to wedge the frag into
3) snails, urchins and starfish will no longer bulldoze or otherwise push your frags around and knock them to the sandbed in the far back corner where you can’t possibly reach them with 3’ long tweezers...
4) you can use display space very efficiently by mounting frags on the side or slope of live rock, where it would have been impossible to place a frag before. This gives you more of a natural look for tabling acros and certain montiporas.
5) you can move the frag around to one of many possible places, not just a very few available places where it might fit
6) you can achieve some very eye-catching display positions
7) if you are unlucky enough to have a tank with AEFW or other parasites, you can easily pull them out of the tank, treat them and put them right back where they were, with no trouble
Drill the display live rock.
1) I drilled holes in my live rock with a ¼†masonary drill bit.
2) Holes of this size make it easier to slide a peg into the rock and slide it back out.
3) Make sure you have a bucket of water handy to rinse the rock in after drilling, or else your tank will get cloudy with rock grunge. This is more of an issue with a BB tank, with sand, you'll never know the difference
4) Depending on the size of each rock, I drilled 5, 10, up to 20 holes in the display rock, at basically all different angles, including straight down from the top and into the side. It is obviously easier to do this when the rock is out of the water, or the tank is aquascaped without water.
Drill the rubble rock.
1) I used 3/16†rigid airline tubing for the pegs. A 3’ piece is about $2 at Petco or any other business.
2) You can mount frags on chunks of rubble rock. The peg can be mounted to the bottom or side of the rubble rock and placed in the holes of your live rock. Personally, I don't like this look. I put the rigid airline tubing into the coral base or if I have a frag, I use a small piece of zip cable tie to hold the frag to. I'll put the rigid airline tubing against the frag and oppose them. I snip off the excess plastic, while after one month the coral will encrust over the plastic. THis gives great flexiblity.
Unfortunatly, I was only able to peg about 1/3 of the corals in my tank because I could only get a drill into the top portion of the rock.
Reefaquariumnut
This set up is really going to be awesome. I wish that you lived around here. I could hook you up with some pretty awesome frags. I would highly recommend the pegging technique to mount your corals. This is a technique that I wasn't familar with when I set up my 400 gallon in 2005, but is really easy, stable and hidden. Most know that displaying corals in a tank can be frustrating trying to place each piece in the exact place and displaying the arrangement you want. Furthermore, nothing is more frustrating than a frag falling off the rocks, getting lost in the tank or falling against another coral and dying/bleaching.
This technique really works great while it gives you a lot of flexibility in your display. To summarize;
1) you don’t always have to have perfectly flat surfaces to place a frag on top of
2) you don’t always have to have perfectly shaped gaps between other rocks to wedge the frag into
3) snails, urchins and starfish will no longer bulldoze or otherwise push your frags around and knock them to the sandbed in the far back corner where you can’t possibly reach them with 3’ long tweezers...
4) you can use display space very efficiently by mounting frags on the side or slope of live rock, where it would have been impossible to place a frag before. This gives you more of a natural look for tabling acros and certain montiporas.
5) you can move the frag around to one of many possible places, not just a very few available places where it might fit
6) you can achieve some very eye-catching display positions
7) if you are unlucky enough to have a tank with AEFW or other parasites, you can easily pull them out of the tank, treat them and put them right back where they were, with no trouble
Drill the display live rock.
1) I drilled holes in my live rock with a ¼†masonary drill bit.
2) Holes of this size make it easier to slide a peg into the rock and slide it back out.
3) Make sure you have a bucket of water handy to rinse the rock in after drilling, or else your tank will get cloudy with rock grunge. This is more of an issue with a BB tank, with sand, you'll never know the difference
4) Depending on the size of each rock, I drilled 5, 10, up to 20 holes in the display rock, at basically all different angles, including straight down from the top and into the side. It is obviously easier to do this when the rock is out of the water, or the tank is aquascaped without water.
Drill the rubble rock.
1) I used 3/16†rigid airline tubing for the pegs. A 3’ piece is about $2 at Petco or any other business.
2) You can mount frags on chunks of rubble rock. The peg can be mounted to the bottom or side of the rubble rock and placed in the holes of your live rock. Personally, I don't like this look. I put the rigid airline tubing into the coral base or if I have a frag, I use a small piece of zip cable tie to hold the frag to. I'll put the rigid airline tubing against the frag and oppose them. I snip off the excess plastic, while after one month the coral will encrust over the plastic. THis gives great flexiblity.
Unfortunatly, I was only able to peg about 1/3 of the corals in my tank because I could only get a drill into the top portion of the rock.
erics3000
Active member
Good to see you still around Servo. I love your piano hinge, it is up and coming on my list. Great info. I think there are some videos about this process at www.reefvideos.com It is called mounting pegging.
Reeftanks6
Active member
Great looking tank. Cant wait to see some more fish in there. Reefkoi great fish tank.
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