Now normally this would really worry me. Not anymore!

Would this suggest the ph is unable to draw in enough water from the holes on the side and is therefore drawing it in from the front as well?

I think so...It's creating a vacuum. I think if there were more holes, it would possibly fix this problem.
 
I really like these. I'd much rather have something nice and clean like this than a sponge or something.
 
Here's a quick photo to show how I handled the vents on the body. They're .25in wide. Both the base and the cap have grooves slotted into them to accept some screen for a little extra protection. There's an inch between the outside of the body and the closest point on a 6095's body, which borders on good enough on its own, but the screening should make it fairly fool (aka H. magnifica) proof.

 
I disagree. Close loop are terrible. The water output is just an outlet. Propeller type pumps are much better for water flow. Intake of the close loop is much worst for chewing up anemone unless you can defuse them, similar to the box around the propeller pumps. So a box to defuse the intake then a huge device to defuse the output. You end up with a bunch of plumping and two boxes instead of one.
False wall are good for nothing other than take up space unless you can hide everything behind it. That is why we have sumps. You cannot put PH behind the one false wall only. Just does not work well having all your PH on one wall for an anemone tank.

You're not seeing the comcepts I'm talking about and not being very imaginative.........try to think outside the box, so to speak.

Powerheads are obtrusive and making them bigger with a cylinder around them makes them more of an eye sore.

You can have as many outlets as you want with a closed loop. The intake can be covered in a black box in the corner. or across the back

Of course a false wall is going to take up space, but so what? False walls are used on nanos and no one complains.

If I'm designing an anemone tank I'd have no problem taking 6" from each side to create walls for pumps. Basically you're taking a rectangle shaped tank and making it a cube instead of buying a cube and putting powerheads in full view.

My thoughts and designs have NO chance of the nems being sucked in or damaged.

To each his own I guess...............I'll leave you guys to designing your giant cylinders.
 
I have used close loop in my large aquarium before. Huge close loops with multiple out put and automated valves that redirect the flow to different outlet. Pump that put out 6000 gph. Higher the out put the larger the area need to be defuse out. I can tell you that close look does not improve the appearance of the equipment inside the aquarium because of the defuse needed for the intake and output. Put the intake of a close loop behind an overflow box does not works well unless the box is very large. Turbulence flow in the overflow box cause the loop to suck in air. Anemone can get stuck and shred by the teeth of the overflow box also
Anemone are different that SPS and LPS tanks due to the mobile nature of the anemones.
If you want to chop 1/2 of you aquarium volume to hide equipment's, be my guest. If you do this, you should put the aquarium behind wall also to hide the false wall area. Similar to what is done at public aquarium.

Ed,
Perhaps you should show us some of your aquarium. How much space dedicate to hide your equipment's and how you hide this space from a viewer.
 
Here's a quick photo to show how I handled the vents on the body. They're .25in wide. Both the base and the cap have grooves slotted into them to accept some screen for a little extra protection. There's an inch between the outside of the body and the closest point on a 6095's body, which borders on good enough on its own, but the screening should make it fairly fool (aka H. magnifica) proof.


Wow...those are very nice! I would wrap them in Epoxy coated mesh and be done!

Now, how can I cut the acrylic like that?
 
You're not seeing the comcepts I'm talking about and not being very imaginative.........try to think outside the box, so to speak.

Powerheads are obtrusive and making them bigger with a cylinder around them makes them more of an eye sore.

You can have as many outlets as you want with a closed loop. The intake can be covered in a black box in the corner. or across the back

Of course a false wall is going to take up space, but so what? False walls are used on nanos and no one complains.

If I'm designing an anemone tank I'd have no problem taking 6" from each side to create walls for pumps. Basically you're taking a rectangle shaped tank and making it a cube instead of buying a cube and putting powerheads in full view.

My thoughts and designs have NO chance of the nems being sucked in or damaged.

To each his own I guess...............I'll leave you guys to designing your giant cylinders.

Ed, I'm working on getting these perfected. This is a starting point. Still testing.

I think on the third pair, I'm going to buy a sheet of acrylic and make some that are smaller with larger holes using more mesh.

Right now I'm trying to see what works the best as far as hole size, material, distance from pump, etc..

These are 4" length X 5" diameter. I can go with a 4.5" or 4" diameter, but problems come with it. Just bare with us and we'll get these things dialed in. We'll try to get them as small as possible.
 
Okay really very interesting idea. Power heads are the reason why I never put a nem in my tank! I may have to reconsider and make a few of these for my tunze 6105s.
 
Wow...those are very nice! I would wrap them in Epoxy coated mesh and be done!

Now, how can I cut the acrylic like that?

By hand? It'd be pretty tough. Do you have a router or jigsaw, preferably table mounted? The arcing slots would be tough to pull off that way, but they could be done straight pretty easily.

Both the base and the lid for it (not in that diagram) have matching slots for a mesh cylinder that sits just inside of it. That way cleaning the mesh is is easy as pulling the cap off and sliding the mesh out to give it a quick rinse.

After getting a couple of these built, I think I'm also going to try an alternative version that's almost completely open that basically just serves as something to hold the mesh in place. We'll see what ends up being functionally and aesthetically better.
 
By hand? It'd be pretty tough. Do you have a router or jigsaw, preferably table mounted? The arcing slots would be tough to pull off that way, but they could be done straight pretty easily.

Both the base and the lid for it (not in that diagram) have matching slots for a mesh cylinder that sits just inside of it. That way cleaning the mesh is is easy as pulling the cap off and sliding the mesh out to give it a quick rinse.

After getting a couple of these built, I think I'm also going to try an alternative version that's almost completely open that basically just serves as something to hold the mesh in place. We'll see what ends up being functionally and aesthetically better.

I have a jig saw and a skill saw. Have a plastic blade for the skill saw.

What would be the absolute easiest way to cut the acrylic?



So what you're talking about is a cylinder inside a cylinder with mesh?

Explain that a little more so I can get the idea in my head.
 
I have a jig saw and a skill saw. Have a plastic blade for the skill saw.

What would be the absolute easiest way to cut the acrylic?
IMHO, the absolute easiest is a tablesaw with a plastic cutting blade. Either a jigsaw or a plastic side-cutting bit on a dremel or router would be next I think.



So what you're talking about is a cylinder inside a cylinder with mesh?

Explain that a little more so I can get the idea in my head.

In the picture I posted, there will be a layer of mesh just inside the plastic cylinder.

The other idea I mentioned will basically just be a mesh cylinder with a plastic "frame" that holds it in place.
 
IMHO, the absolute easiest is a tablesaw with a plastic cutting blade. Either a jigsaw or a plastic side-cutting bit on a dremel or router would be next I think.





In the picture I posted, there will be a layer of mesh just inside the plastic cylinder.

The other idea I mentioned will basically just be a mesh cylinder with a plastic "frame" that holds it in place.

That's what I'm making next, because I'm almost done with the 2nd ones. I had to send the magnets back because they were so tiny that you would need fine tweezers to grab them. I had to order some that were 4x their size. To give you an idea of how small the first magnets were, just cut a normal house fly into 4 pieces and pick up one piece. Exactly, tiny...I couldn't hold or grab them. I'm about to order a sheet of acrylic. Trying to design the plastic frame in my head. I already have some mesh, but not sure I have enough. Talking to some friends about were to get acrylic locally. Not sure if it's cheaper to buy it local or online and have it shipped. I only need a 3' square sheet.
 
Grokthecube,

On that drawing that you did, how would I cut the slots? I think a router would work, but I've never used one. Would it be hard to free hand it?

I guess the swirl patterns would need to go in the direction of the flow or the direction the propeller is turning?

We're on to something good here...

I just need to figure out how to build it and what size. You can see that 1/4" holes are obviously too large from the pic above. The screen is too big as well. We can do 1/4" holes or slots and bigger, but was just have to use the smaller mesh. I have some now. Even with the 1/4" holes and larger screen on the front, the nem hasn't got chewed yet. Not even one finger. He's been camped out on that PH for 4-5 days now. Thank God they work!
 
IMHO I would try a dremel before I would try a router if we're just talking everyday house equipment.
 
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