Ocean In A Box's Nano Reef Journal >>>PICS!!!<<<

are u going to close up the gap above the tank? i would suggest doing this as it would max. the light reflection into the tank! i rate this project is going to look really cool when it is complete! where did u get your cube from?
 
yeah, plan on closing it all in on top (sides too i think to hide the fishroom behind, etc)

bought the tanks at Petco during their $1/gallon sale...what a deal
 
Overflow damn update:
mcmaster.com had black acrylic...great price. Ordered today. Will be making overflow from that.
Black silicone to match:
bigalsonline.com for only $6!
Sump update (few pages back in post):
Bought some Weld-On #3 and 1/8" clear acrylic from mcmaster.com as well and plan on doing patch job soon.
System pump: Eheim 1260 has confirmed shipping...should have it soon

DRAIN/RETURN SIZE QUESTIONS:

I've never done this before but believe the best rule of thumb is to have your drain DOUBLE your return. Is that correct?

If I have a 1" drain then .5" returns (one or two returns, not sure) correct?

However, I'd planned on 3/4" returns originally...does that mean I should have more than one drain? Say two 1" drains and one or two 3/4" returns would work?

If this isn't making sense, sorry, just wanted to make sure I had this all straight and got some inputs from folks who have plumbed a system before, as my last tank was all "HOB" and I didn't have to set anything up from scratch. I'd like to make sure all is figured properly before I lay that diamond bit to the glass...

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Any inputs appreciated! - Matt
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OK -
I'm going to use my 45mm diamond saw to drill the hole for 1" bulkhead and I'm going to put a strainer and maybe a sponge over the strainer on it also. That's it as far as what's in my overflow. Position of hole will be as near to the bottom of the tank as possible.
Any feedback / comments on this?
I'm hoping to keep the overflow and drain pretty simple.
As for returns, I guess I can experiment w/ either 1/2 or 3/4 as I was going to have them come over the back wall and I won't be drilling holes for those.
 
Remember, your pump is limited in how much water it can return to the tank by the diameter of your returns...so, if you go with 1/2" returns you may end up finding out that the size of the returns effectively throttles back your return pump, just like if you would put a ball valve in and close it partially...

If you have a 1" drain...and 3/4 returns...you can pretty much rest assured that you will have enough flow coming back from your pump to the tank...still put a tru-union ball valve in for cleaning and if absolutely necessary you can throttle it back if needed...you would be sorry if you put in the 1/2" return and that throttled back the pump and you didn't need to...
 
Ocean in a Box, 1/2" return would produce more pressure (velocity) at the head, but will reduce the volume of water returned to the tank per unit time when compared to the 3/4" return. I'm assuming the goal is to turn over the total tank volume as frequently as possible, in which case 3/4" return would be preferred, with the ball valve installed as Hopeful Reefer indicated for maintenance. HTH!
 
Mark & Jason - THANKS!!! ;)

I don't know if I want more velocity or more turnover...to be honest, I'm not sure how this whole thing's going to "feel" once hooked up for real. I plan on having minimal headloss from the pump in general (Eheim 1260...~600gph) as it will be near to the display cube and not much lower in height than it. Won't be sitting directly on the floor but will be raised up a bit. I'll have one 1" drain near the bottom of the overflow that will be about 23" tall. I plan on using flex tubing to reduce hard angles and turns, among other reasons. I guess I can go with 3/4 returns...loc line. The sump was described few pages back and is approx 20 g. I hope this setup as described will be properly "powered" with the Eheim I've chosen.

I'm considering drilling some additional holes for a small closed loop? Is that crazy on a tank of this size? I'd REALLY love to get away from any powerheads visible in the tank. I only have the one 45mm diamond saw so was thinking of 1" buildheads on those as well but guess I could reduce to smaller closed loop tubing and a small pump to turns some water over in the closed loop.

Appreciate any comments from anyone reading this! Thanks -
 
NEW TANK PARTS ARRIVED TODAY

NEW TANK PARTS ARRIVED TODAY

Tank Parts from local home improvement store...

Ball valves, spa-flex, bathroom fan w/ tubing & duct:

ball valve & fittings 1:

ball valve & fittings 2:


Bathroom ceiling fan (tanks down in basement and I don't want any problems):



mcmaster.com ROCKS...great prices, nicely shipped, fast delivery for just $7...all got here today from mcmaster.com...

Box arrived nicely:


Nicely packed inside:


WHATS INSIDE...clear 1/8 acrylic for doing sump repair noted earlier in the post, black almost 1/4 acylic so I can make custom overflow dam, Weld-On #3, some small brushes to apply, and also a squeeze bottle with needle dispenser for the Weld-On.:



Now need black silicone, bulkheads. and screens/sponge...then need to construct overflow and drill tank. Getting closer to getting this thing going. - Matt
 
Looks great...you are getting closer...

One suggestion though...since you didn't get tru union ball valves and got regular ones instead...you aren't going to be able to take apart your plumbing later on because it will all be hard plumbed...for example, if your return pump goes out you have to deal with the entire return plumbing to replace the pump...

You can put unions on both sides of the ball valves...this way you can shut off the flow of water, save some of your water, and remove just the section needed for repair work, cleaning or whatever...

Just a though... :)
 
jason - have link or pic of union or valves described? can't quite picture what u r saying...if pumpwent out why couldn't I close the ball valve I have? tx 4 your help!
 
OK...been awhile.
This thread will be more intersting with more pics...will post soon.
I'm going to drill my tank soon, most like this weekend or next:
- 1 drain in the overflow.
- Then just 2 returns over the back corners or perhaps front corners (hidden by canopy).
Also thinking of closed loop...my Q to all of you before I start drilling, is:
- would you drill one drain in the middle, and maybe two return holes thru the back glass at mid-height on each side of the center drain?
- Anyone have any pros/cons on where to place holes for CL's and can speak from experience?
- I also wondered...are there any CONS to having CL's at all?

I'm really looking forward to ZERO powerheads visible in my tank...I Hope the CL is the way to go!

Opinions please & welcomed... ;)

Tx, Matt
 
Matt, for the intake, make sure you don't put it too close to the sandbed. Mine are about 3" above and every once in a while they will pull some sand through. I would to it like you said, but for the return from the sump, I would reccomend going over the top instead of through the back. This will allow you to keep more water in the tank when you shut off the main pump. This will allow you to use more of the sump for actual water volume as well as to get your aquascaping/corals a little higher in the tank. You need to get that thing done so I can come up and have a beer.
 
I agree with Joe, go over the top/back for the return...the only time I don't do this is when it is a pre-drilled tank with a return coming up through the bottom of the tank through the overflow...

Get some pics in here man!! :D
 
GrandeGixxer & Hopeful Reefer -

I don't understand yoru reply...but maybe I wasn't really explaining things too well.

1" drain will be in the back glass pane, and be IN the overflow box I'll make out of acrylic; there will be a return split into two 1" returns that would come back into the display tank over the edges...maybe one over the front & one over the back. So this would be turbulence near top of water column.

For the closed loop, was planning on drilling 3 holes for 3/4" bulkheads or spa-type jets for the middle/lower water column turbulence, spaced equally across the back pane of glass. The middle one would be the drain into the closed loop pump, and the other two be returns into the display tank.

Planning to use spa-flex tubing for everything...also the unions & valves, etc pictured in prior posts.

Any opinions then on the number or size of drains/returns, and, placement of drain/returns to main sump in combo with closed loop at about 1/2 point of the back of the tank?

Two sides are viewable, and two sides are facing the rear fishroom so I may change this a little to have two rear facing panes of glass drilled with all these holes...in order to space them most evenly.

Thanks in advance for the inputs on this...don't want to change my mind after I've drilled the holes!! ;)
 
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