Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[slief]

Hi Slief,

I always learning something from you . Thanks a lot for your brief details.

How about the flow rate ? I wonder if choosing a peristaltic pump is this also a criteria for selecting the right pump for us ? As you mentioned generally speaking, we end up 25 ml/ min to 50 ml / min. So in the model of Masterflex it said flow rate 0.001 to 3400 ml / min and I believed this can not be done by a 100 rpm motor ?

I ask this question as I am also considering this option but his specs as ff;

Can you further give advises and in case any comment on this pumps?

Cheers,


MD

From looking at the specs, you would need to build or use some sort of 0-5v controller to control the speed/rpm of the pump. Perosnally, I would stick with the Masterflex as they are proven to work very well and the Masterflex pumps are designed for the medical industry and as such are built to last. Do it right the first time so you don't end up wasting your money experimenting.

As for whether a 100 rpm pump would work. Sure as long as it's variable. You only need 17.8 rpm (with LS17 tubing) to get 50ml/min which falls well under the 100 rpm max of a Cole Parmer 0-100 rpm pump.

 

[machodik]

Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

From looking at the specs, you would need to build or use some sort of 0-5v controller to control the speed/rpm of the pump. Perosnally, I would stick with the Masterflex as they are proven to work very well and the Masterflex pumps are designed for the medical industry and as such are built to last. Do it right the first time so you don't end up wasting your money experimenting.

As for whether a 100 rpm pump would work. Sure as long as it's variable. You only need 17.8 rpm (with LS17 tubing) to get 50ml/min which falls well under the 100 rpm max of a Cole Parmer 0-100 rpm pump.

Thanks for prompt reply ,

One more thing I forgot to ask , is the flow rate 0.001 to 3400 ml/min relevant in our selecting of Masterflex models? Because the L/S models specs said it is that flow rate while as you mentioned normally flow rate we require will be between 25ml/min to 50 ml/min range . And how is the flow rate will be affecting with various sizes and tube materials : nonprene , silicone , vitorn or pharmed ....etc.?

For Masterflex pumps which model is the basic or low end model that you can suggest perhaps can ease a little bit of my "wallet pain"? Anyway , I wish to compare between the economical model vs the well suggested model that requires higher more $$$. But of coarse I am looking at one time investment rather than changing new model due to not able to work well later on.

So may be some comparison details will help easier to decide which model I should buy at the end .

Cheers,


MD

 

[slief]

Thanks for prompt reply ,

One more thing I forgot to ask , is the flow rate 0.001 to 3400 ml/min relevant in our selecting of Masterflex models? Because the L/S models specs said it is that flow rate while as you mentioned normally flow rate we require will be between 25ml/min to 50 ml/min range .

For Masterflex pumps which model is the basic or low end model that you can suggest perhaps can ease a little bit of my "wallet pain"? Anyway , I wish to compare between the economical model vs the well suggested model that requires higher more $$$. But of coarse I am looking at one time investment rather than changing new model due to not able to work well later on.

So may be some comparison details will help easier to decide which model I should buy at the end .

Cheers,


MD

Just look for the cheapest L/S one in your Masterflex list above. Any of those pumps would work. Some obviously are better like the model I mentioned but any of those newer Masterflex pumps are good choices. If you can get one that is up to 600 rpm, that would be best whether you choose brushed or brushless because the motor itself will be running at a lower rpm because of the gearing but again, even a 0-100 rpm pump will work. It's just that the motor will be spinning faster and as a result will have more wear and tear.

 

[machodik]

Thanks and how about the noise factor? I presumed no gear with spinning faster may create louder sounds than those spinning slower. I don't have fish room and my tank and sump is located at my living room .

 

[slief]

Thanks and how about the noise factor? I presumed no gear with spinning faster may create louder sounds than those spinning slower. I don't have fish room and my tank and sump is located at my living room .

Yes, the slower the motor turns, the quieter it will be. That said, if noise is really a concern, I would spend the extra money on the brushless unit as that will be the quietest solution regardless of the RPM.

 

[machodik]

Thanks and let me Check prices with local distributor . Much wonder if you have some price idea over there of this kind of pump ? May be as my price guidance here (if ok with you guys to share ) thanks

 

[slief]

The new ones like you are consider range from $1100 US for the brushed versions to $1900 US for the brushless ones. There are others that are more expensive.
http://www.coleparmer.com/Category/Masterflex_L_S_Tubing_Pumps/4440

 

[machodik]

Thanks Slief for the feed back .
By looking at the webpage ; what is your idea about this one;

EW-07554-90
Masterflex L/S economy variable speed drive , 20 to 600 rpm , 115 VAC
I think I need to buy pump head separately with this model?

And how is your assessment between following model ;

Ew-07522-20
Masterflex L/S digital drive , 600 RPM , 115/230 VAC

EW - 07528-10
Masterflex L/S variable -speed drive w/remote I/O; 600 rpm

 

[slief]

Thanks Slief for the feed back .
By looking at the webpage ; what is your idea about this one;

EW-07554-90
Masterflex L/S economy variable speed drive , 20 to 600 rpm , 115 VAC
I think I need to buy pump head separately with this model?

And how is your assessment between following model ;

Ew-07522-20
Masterflex L/S digital drive , 600 RPM , 115/230 VAC

EW - 07528-10
Masterflex L/S variable -speed drive w/remote I/O; 600 rpm

Like I told you yesterday. The 7522-20 would be my first choice. It's 600 rpm and brushless.

The 7528-10 isn't brushless but it will work fine. It will make more noise and need the brushes replaced every now and then. This would be my 2nd choice but I'd still much prefer the 7522-20 because it's brushless and in a room like yours, the noise could be an issue with the other pumps.

The 7554-90 is much lower quality as far as control. It has a lower power motor so it may not last as long. You don't have the benefit of knowing the exact rpm/ml/min. You turn a know and that's it. It makes adjusting more difficult since you don't know exactly where you are at and are left guessing. Granted you ultimately go based on reactor pH but it's still nice to know exactly where you are at as far as flow. It's also not brushless so it will be noisier too. I'd pass on that if the others are on the table.

 

[machodik]

Great ! Your assistance in my selection and evaluation definitely a plus plus to me . If I go high end , definitely 7522-20 will be my first choice too .

For my budget I am thinking of not over usd 1,500 (all in) , which I already added usd 500 to my initial budget target in buying this pump .

 

[machodik]

one questions here....is there any so called different between AC and DC peritaltic pump ? if so, then what we should chooese AC or DC? why? sorry if this come to you as a lousy questions.

 

[slief]

one questions here....is there any so called different between AC and DC peritaltic pump ? if so, then what we should chooese AC or DC? why? sorry if this come to you as a lousy questions.

AC plugs directly into the wall. DC requires an AC Adapter and adds an additional point of failure. The higher end Masterflex pumps sold today are AC. AC pumps are more powerfull too. Stick with the pumps that have been mentioned if you are buying new.

 

[machodik]

Not really sure why you are asking. We keep directing you to your best options and alll are AC powered. AC plugs directly into the wall. DC requires an AC Adapter and adds an additional point of failure. All the higher end Masterflex pumps sold today are AC. AC pumps are more powerfull too. Stick with the pumps that have been mentioned if you are buying new.

Thanks and well noted

 

[BrettH]

Don't do this...

Don't do this...

Last night I finally set up my cole parmer dosing pump 7520-50 and pump head 7518-10. Wahoo!

So the setup was fairly easy, not much to do and fairly intuitive, except for this one little potential gotcha....The gotcha (in my case) is the little black lever (see pic below) located on both sides of the head unit. Not the lever that is silver with the black knob, the small little black lever below it...

This little black lever is what prevents the tubing from being pulled through the unit as the head turns. I was afraid to set it too tight in fear that it would tear the Tygon tubing. That was a mistake...

By about 10pm last night I had everything set up and running. I go upstairs, catch up on some Californiacation and fall asleep on the couch. At about 4:30am I wake up and decide to stumble upstairs and into bed. On may way upstairs I pass by the tank and with one eye open I notice that there is no flow and the main pump has shut down. Ok, so what happened? I detour to down stairs, now with one and half eyes open and then I see water on the floor. Thank god my Apex shut the system down due to a low sump alarm, but I lost about 20 gallons. Well it turns out I didn't push that little black lever down hard enough to hold the Tygon tubing in place and the cole parmer pump sucked the Tygon tubing through the head unit and tore a hole in the tubing.

I adjusted the clamp and put a little black mark on the tubing so I can confirm that the tubing is not slowly being sucked through the pump head over time.

Here is a shot of the clamp that holds the tubing in place. I really have it clamped down now. A lot more than I thought I should clamp it.

Good news is that I keep freshly mixed saltwater and RO water to handle problems like this one. The apex did its job and I had the tank back on line within about 15-20 minutes of finding the problem.

cheers
brett

 

[dcmartinpc]

Yeah, those are pretty important. Mine have marks on the side showing where to set it for each tubing size. Not sure if yours rubbed off or are in a different place, but they were very helpful for me.

Don

 

[BrettH]

Yeah, those are pretty important. Mine have marks on the side showing where to set it for each tubing size. Not sure if yours rubbed off or are in a different place, but they were very helpful for me.

Don

I found that out the hard way! Lol.

I don't see any marks on either side.

 

[tkeracer619]

Interesting about the marks, never seen that before. Could you post a pic?

Those are probably still too tight. You want to only use a short section of tubing and connect it to regular john guest poly tube. The fitting should also prevent the tube from pulling through.

Nice setup!

 

[BrettH]

Those are probably still too tight. You want to only use a short section of tubing and connect it to regular john guest poly tube. The fitting should also prevent the tube from pulling through.

Nice setup!

Thanks!

I am not taking any chances this time on the tightness. The fitting was basically pulled off the tubing, it didn't stop it. I am actually using a short section of the tygon, albeit I did make it a little longer than the prior piece I used so I would have more time to catch it slipping. The 3/8 tubing that I am using post the male adapter is regular 3/8 tubing, not tygon.

 

[Mike S]

Last night I finally set up my cole parmer dosing pump 7520-50 and pump head 7518-10. Wahoo!

So the setup was fairly easy, not much to do and fairly intuitive, except for this one little potential gotcha....The gotcha (in my case) is the little black lever (see pic below) located on both sides of the head unit. Not the lever that is silver with the black knob, the small little black lever below it...

This little black lever is what prevents the tubing from being pulled through the unit as the head turns. I was afraid to set it too tight in fear that it would tear the Tygon tubing. That was a mistake...

By about 10pm last night I had everything set up and running. I go upstairs, catch up on some Californiacation and fall asleep on the couch. At about 4:30am I wake up and decide to stumble upstairs and into bed. On may way upstairs I pass by the tank and with one eye open I notice that there is no flow and the main pump has shut down. Ok, so what happened? I detour to down stairs, now with one and half eyes open and then I see water on the floor. Thank god my Apex shut the system down due to a low sump alarm, but I lost about 20 gallons. Well it turns out I didn't push that little black lever down hard enough to hold the Tygon tubing in place and the cole parmer pump sucked the Tygon tubing through the head unit and tore a hole in the tubing.

I adjusted the clamp and put a little black mark on the tubing so I can confirm that the tubing is not slowly being sucked through the pump head over time.

Here is a shot of the clamp that holds the tubing in place. I really have it clamped down now. A lot more than I thought I should clamp it.

Good news is that I keep freshly mixed saltwater and RO water to handle problems like this one. The apex did its job and I had the tank back on line within about 15-20 minutes of finding the problem.

cheers
brett

How do you like the 7520-50 so far? I've been looking for a pump and that model seems to be coming up frequently on eBay.

 

[d2mini]

So i noticed something was leaking in my garage last night.
Ends up it's my AWC pump that runs for about 45 mins every days.
The tubing split in the middle where the rollers contact it.
But unlike Brett, my clamps were down hard enough, the tubing didn't shift.