ojonas JBJ 28g build thread

I have it set to about 505 of full power. Did test it on 100% power and it did not create a sandstorm but my corals did not really appreciate the high flow.
 
I wouldnt worry about the toadstool too much, softies shrink on their own at times but come back. If you just want to run GFO, get 1 reactor, the 2nd would be for carbon.

And, IME the MP10 won't create a "sandstorm" per se in my tank, but over time it will "dig" out holes in the sand on the opposite side of the tank. The right side of my tank probably has 1/2" less sand than the left side :) I run mine at 80-90% reefcrest. Oh, and the placement really has a big impact on this as well, even moving the MP10 up or down an inch can drastically change what happens with the sand. Just have to find the sweet spot.
 
ange062: Thinking of placing an order for the TLF Phosban reactor (one to begin with). What else besides the reactor do I need to order? Media? plumbing parts etc?
 
ojonas81 said:
ange062: Thinking of placing an order for the TLF Phosban reactor (one to begin with). What else besides the reactor do I need to order? Media? plumbing parts etc?
Click to expand...

If you order a TLF - you'll need media (gfo, and carbon, if you want [you'll have to change the media a little more frequently if you split the reactor with two types of media, but you'll also get the added benefits of carbon]), 1/2" I.D tubing and a pump.

The pump, ideally, would be something very small - 20 to 40 gph, but if it's a slightly larger pump, that's ok, because the TLF reactor comes with a ball valve to control flow.


Taken from MD spec's: "Recommended flow rate: 20-30 gph for 130 grams PhosBan, 30-40 gph for 200 grams."
 
iFisch said:
If you order a TLF - you'll need media (gfo, and carbon, if you want [you'll have to change the media a little more frequently if you split the reactor with two types of media, but you'll also get the added benefits of carbon]), 1/2" I.D tubing and a pump.

The pump, ideally, would be something very small - 20 to 40 gph, but if it's a slightly larger pump, that's ok, because the TLF reactor comes with a ball valve to control flow.


Taken from MD spec's: "Recommended flow rate: 20-30 gph for 130 grams PhosBan, 30-40 gph for 200 grams."
Click to expand...

+1 on that, I use a MaxiJet 400 to power both of my reactors. 3-4ft of 1/2" ID tubing (prefer black color to clear), and the media. Phosban really works great, but is expensive and wears out quickly. I am currently using BRS HC GFO but thinking I may switch back to Phosban because it works much better.
 
Can I plumb the reactor directly from one of the return pumps using a Y-connection instead of having a separate pump?

How expensive is expensive and how often do have to change it out?
 
ojonas81 said:
Can I plumb the reactor directly from one of the return pumps using a Y-connection instead of having a separate pump?

How expensive is expensive and how often do have to change it out?
Click to expand...

I think you can, but whats the pump rated for?

What are you asking in terms of "expensive"? And different media will last longer then others and some media will be more efficient then others. Need to figure out what gfo/carbon you want to run, and can afford.
 
You can get Phosban for about 9c per gram or BRS HC GFO for 7c per gram. For a tank our size, you use 50-60g in the reactor. BRS you change every 4-wks, Phosban every 2-wks.

That means (by loose calculation) that Phosban will run you about $9 a month, where BRS HC GFO will run you $3.50.
 
The Toadstool extended its polyps yesterday again so I guess everything is OK for now.

Planning to head to my LFS and get my first SPS. Not sure which one(s) to get yet though.
 
So back from the LFS and got a few more corals than I expected. Got a good deal I could not pass up. Anyway, here are pictures of the new additions.


Finally found a Green Hammer Coral. Have been looking for this for some time now.


A SPS coral. I think it is a Humilis Acropora but I'm not sure. Anyone that can confirm this?


Another SPS. This one is a little bleached out and I got it for a good price, $15. Have no idea of the name of it. Anyone?

I also got a Starburst Polyp but it still has its polyps inside so picture has to come later.

Finally a FTS of how the tank looks like today.



I still have way too may small particles floating around in the tank making the water less clear. Have no real idea on how to get rid of that.
 
That looks like it may be a green bali slimer acro. The larger SPS is a green stylophora.

Are you using filter floss in the top of your media basket? That should help remove debris from the water.
 
Thanks for the names.

Yes I am using floss in the first chamber. Clean it out every other day now and replacing it on a weekly basis. Not a terrible issue but a little irritating that the water is not as cleas as I know it can be.
 
Dont reuse floss, replace it daily untill the water clears. I have also found that cutting up a 100 micron filter sock works well too if changed daily.
 
I'll try that. Do you have a good souce where to buy filter floss? I am getting a filer pad from my local Petco but it is very expensive.

For the two SPS frags above, would it be possible to cut them off the plug using a sharp knife or would that damage the frag too much? I don't really like the look of the plugs in my reef.

Last night i checked the aquarium after dark and found a long worm looking thing. Is this a big bristle worm? Should I be worried?

<iframe width="960" height="720" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/s_Sbgzmorrk?rel=0&hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Think I know partly what is causing my water to be "cloudy". I think it is my spaghetti worm that now and then "blows out" sand from his hole. Think I will try to get rid of him even though I know he is good for the tank. The downside with a constantly cloudy water does not get weighted up by the advantages he brings. So, the question is how I best get rid of him. I know which hole he is living in. Can I just try to pull him out with a pair of tweezers or do I use something else?
 
Took a video of the tank last night, first with daylight on and then with the dusk/dawn light. Sorry for the crappy quality, used my cell phone. the daylight part was shoot just before a water change and the dusk/dawn part just after. That's why some corals are not fully extended.

<iframe width="960" height="720" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/GueafAJvxaU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Decided to move my torch down to the bottom of the tank. One of its head died after I added the MP10. Too much current I think. Looks very good and healthy now at its new location. Also decided to move my Toadstool out of the direct current from the MP10. Hopefully it will like its new location better.

Here are two FTS of the current status of the tank.

Front


Left side

I need a new center piece, something that catches the eye and can withstand high light and very high water currents. Any suggestions?

Also, does anyone know why my 2 clowns always swims up front against the glass at the surface? They are most of the behind the tank frame. I don't think I have ever seen them anywhere else but up against the glass.
 
No suggestions for a new center piece in the tank? I want something that will stand out, can tolerate high light and high water movement. Since I have realized that I already have a lot of green in the tank I think the color of the center piece should be something different that stands out.
 
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