OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

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My point was directed at your post, sorry if you took it that way.

This is just whats popping up in my mind with this whole topic in general. If I had an acrylic tank I would hesitate in purchasing a vortech. And I think they're very cool, innovative, and well made.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11430913#post11430913 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris wright

IF the tank is faulty through materials and construction, then no, they shouldn't.

I still don't see how though, that if heat from MH lights can deform an acrylic tank, how these pumps creating a point heat source can not do the same. This tank obviously didn't have this problem until these unit's were used,

You are still leaving out the most important aspect here and that is the underbuilt aspect of the tank. If the tank was built to spec. neither the metal halide heat or pump heat should have caused crazing if they are used properly. This aspect is just an issue that acrylic tank owners should understand and know how to deal with if they choose acrylic over glass.

I think bmwaaron temp. test shows that the 140 degree measurements are misleading because they are being read from the heat sink which is actually being directed away from the tank. The temp. dropped 15% when it was measured near the area that actually touches the tank. If this is the case with all Vortechs and the actual temperature was close to 120 degrees and still caused the tank to craze then I would be more concerned about the integrity of the tank long term if metal halides are also being used.

One last thing that I want to say to everyone who is questioning the customer service level of Icecap and Eco tech and that is we shouldn't be so quick to pile onto a business just for the sake of doing so. I see this all to often on forums such as ours when a mob mentality seems to develop due to friendships and the familiarity that we all aquire between each other. Unfortunetly this develops shared opinions and bias thus making us blind to the actual facts of a situation which seems to be what is happening here.
I have no ties to either Eco Tech or Jonathan so I am only seeing this as a black and white situation and from what I have read and heard, the business end of this situation has offered reasonable solutions to rectify this situation IMOP. I honestly don't know of any business that would replace a 1000g USED tank given the circumstances surrounding this issue and anyone who thinks that is the only acceptable solution is being very unrealistic IMOP.
 
This is the reason I didn't buy them.I was going to buy two but after seeing the damage they caused do I need the hassle.I wouldn't take that kind of a gamble.Imagine I had to dismantle my tank.The live stock,what would you do with it,all the plumbing would need to be redone.Having to buy another tank.More than likely you would lose some livestock in the transfer.Now imagine that with a 1000 plus gallon system.I think it would be a nightmare.Do you think for any moment that ecotech will admit they have a faulty product.It won't happen this is why 18 months later this is still a problem.Its a very big problem.How do you replace a 1000 plus gallon tank?where do you place all the livestock?Who is responsible to do all the work?(Jonathan)The guy has a life he has to work so now he would have to take time off to do all this,re set up another tank,test everything for leaks,place all the livestock back.Hopefully he doesn't lose anything.Do you realize how much work is involved in this.Even if ecotech admits some fault and buys Jonathan a brand new tank the amount of time and work that goes into setting it up,never mind having to spend more money because you will run into something(plumbing parts)If they had half a brain they would have tried to settle and bought him a new tank have him sign a non disclosure agreement and saved themselves the hassle of being sued.I would have taken them to court.I know its not cheap but neither is a system of this size.I don't think that you could prove 100% that Jonathans tank was defective.It held water for this long and never had any problems.Just the fact that he has been this patient and tried to work this problem out between the company shows you something about his character.I wouldn't have been this nice about.I see some bull s h i t flying around.Lets face it you will never see this company admit any wrong doing,after the bottom line is its all about money and no company wants to lose it.They lost some from me and other due to this thread and I would think that they will lose more in sales.There will always be others that will still buy there product,just not me.
 
Here is an interesting thread that shows what can happen when heat is applied to underbuilt or incorrectly built acrylic tanks.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack

Was the light manufacture at fault in this situation or was the the tank owners fault for not spending the extra money and using 1" on the top as apposed to 1/2". I would say the later. At the time this issue was a big deal and I know for a fact that the tank was not replaced by the lighting manuf. and people continue to use metal halides on their acrylic tanks.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack
 
Here is an interesting thread that shows what can happen when heat is applied to underbuilt or incorrectly built acrylic tanks. Was the light manufacture at fault in this situation or was the the tank owners fault for not spending the extra money and using 1" on the top as apposed to 1/2". I would say the later. At the time this issue was a big deal and I know for a fact that the tank was not replaced by the lighting manuf. and people continue to use metal halides on their acrylic tanks.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack
 
Here is an interesting thread that shows what can happen when heat is applied to underbuilt or incorrectly built acrylic tanks.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack

Was the light manufacture at fault in this situation or was the the tank owners fault for not spending the extra money and using 1" on the top as apposed to 1/2". I would say the later. At the time this issue was a big deal and I know for a fact that the tank was not replaced by the lighting manuf. and people continue to use metal halides on their acrylic tanks.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack
 
What most people fail to recognize is that there is no such thing as "up to spec" and industry standards in this hobby. What is "to spec"? It's not like we have some sort of consortium that tested and quantified what parameters are acceptible and what aren't. It's not like we have a certification and licensing requirement of some sort for such products or manufacturers thereof. All we hobbiests have to go on are the claims of the manufacturers.... More and more often nowadays I find them to be hogwash.

A properly engineered product also doesn't mean it's overbuilt. Infact if it was properly designed and engineered, it shouldn't be overbuilt. IMO/IME overbuilding is often to compensate for poor engineering.

I am not saying that Jonathan's tank was in any way a perfectly engineered product. But if I was Eco-Tech, given the stakes involved, I would have at least sent someone qualified out to the site in order to investigate the issue in person, not over the phone or over the net. How can it be so easy to say one thing and convince yourself that it's not your problem when you have never actually even seen the problem first hand in the first place?
 
Dude are you serious??? You don't think there is any engineering work done when someone builds a tank? They have formulas that help them (manufacturers) figure out what size thickness to use.

What's interesting to me is that the person who gave the 140 degree rating for acrylic under pressure rating has already stated that the pump was not the sole cause and he is an expert in the field but yet people use that and quote him as the exact rating but don't listen to him when he states that the pump was not the sole cause!

If you don't want the pumps fine just don't make it seem like this happens all the time and everyone should beware or that customer service has been horrible with both Ecotech/Ice Cap. Since when do we base our opinion on the minority because it's definitely not the majority.

Anyone try to find a legit manufacture that would build that tank with those dims using that thickness of acrylic material and give you a warranty?
 
I'm really looking at this as an outsider. I don't own an acrylic tank or the Ecotech pumps. When I first started my build I looked at the pumps I wanted, did some comparisons and went with the brand that gave me the power and what I could afford. I would have NEVER thought to check to see how hot the pumps would get. This is from MarineDepot:
Ecotech Marine VorTech Propeller Pump/Powerhead
High flow, low heat, easy, efficient and controllable technology. Bracketless Design, No Heat Transfer, Controllable, No AC Current in the aquarium, Run-Safe Design, etc.
I guess they fixed the problem - if this is your same pump???
 
lamarine -
Prove to me that J's tank was underbuilt. You're making a lot of assumptions when you have never seen this tank nor even know anything about how it was built.

I also never said engineering is not involved in designing and building a tank :rolleyes: Merely that overbuilding is not the same as well engineered.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11432896#post11432896 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
lamarine -
Prove to me that J's tank was underbuilt. You're making a lot of assumptions when you have never seen this tank nor even know anything about how it was built.

The fact that the sides are built out of 3/4" proves that it is underbuilt.
Cyro Industries has a acrylic thickness calculator that "recommends" more than 1.35" thick panels and this calculator does not take into consideration any other stresses. That is almost 2 x the thickness on this tank.
 

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Yes I realize that but I definitely don't want pumps in my fish room producing 140 degrees!"

I am not an engineer but I have burned my hand on my metal halides...anyone have any idea how hot those get?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11432400#post11432400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by triggerfish1976
Here is an interesting thread that shows what can happen when heat is applied to underbuilt or incorrectly built acrylic tanks. Was the light manufacture at fault in this situation or was the the tank owners fault for not spending the extra money and using 1" on the top as apposed to 1/2". I would say the later. At the time this issue was a big deal and I know for a fact that the tank was not replaced by the lighting manuf. and people continue to use metal halides on their acrylic tanks.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=986338&highlight=acrylic+crack

This article is completely unrelated to my situation. Why post that?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11432897#post11432897 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
Yes I realize that but I definitely don't want pumps in my fish room producing 140 degrees!

All pumps produce heat. So do lamps. I have a T-5 Array that gets above 180F, and I would bet dollars-to-donuts my halides are WAY hotter than that. But they don't make contact with my tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11433225#post11433225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by triggerfish1976
The fact that the sides are built out of 3/4" proves that it is underbuilt.
Cyro Industries has a acrylic thickness calculator that "recommends" more than 1.35" thick panels and this calculator does not take into consideration any other stresses. That is almost 2 x the thickness on this tank.

I don't understand how you filled that out. My tank is 33"h x 96" long by 60" deep and I don't see any way to enter the dimensions in accurately. Also the question regarding open or closed top is answered incorrectly. I do not have a closed top. The tank is open topped right? That form doesn't take into account the actual water volume.

So I get a tank wall thickness of 2" based on fillng that out. It looks to me that you changed the maximum pressure? So I don't understand how this equation matches my tank, nor how you got the 1.35" answer. Nor do I understand how it relates to my tank since we don't know that it is made with Acrylite GP.
 
Actually, I have looked at that a little more and figured out what you did. I don't understand how they can produce a formula that doesn't take into account total dimension though. Seems strange to me.

I will post my results soon.
 
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