OK something is changing...

[oneradtek202]

I HAVE to change something in my basement sump. I think its my plumbing because i dont know if you all remember my original post of my pan world pump failure, but i swapped into a NEW panworld pump and its still failing.

It will just suddenly stop pumping water and be making a higher pitched louder noise coming from the pump. It must be something to do with my plumbing setup. I have a 7 ft return and i have a T on it to draw water off and back into my sump because i do not need all of that flow that the pump produces.

im going to swap out my 90 degree elbow intake and do a straight shot to my pump now, but im thinking it has to be something to do with my return. Is there an issue with T-ing off of the return line? Could i just have a return line only with a ball valve? i dont wanna put back pressure on the pump right? or does it not matter? because i dont need all the water i can put out, and i dont think my overflow would handle it. so if i only have a return line with a ball valve and i close off teh line a bit with teh valve would this have a negative affect on my pump? (stress) well here it goes again! bring on the ideas lol

 

[mr86mister]

I've seen many times of people cutting the flow a bit on the return line from the pump using a ball valve. I personally haven't tried it. Hopefully tomorrow a few people will get you a few good experiences.

 

[pascal32]

From what I read the line from the tank to the pump should be wide open. You cam put some restriction on the output of the pump, though it is better to put in a tee and have the excess dump back into th sump. One of the guys near me has his panworld running that way with no issue.

I will say that depending on the fittings you use, there can be a serious loss on throughput. For the 1" pipe I used a union would reduce the line to about 3/4". To overcome this I used a 1 1/4" union with slip adaptors. Same problem with ball valves.

Spa-flex helps increase flow and makes running the line easier.

 

[reefboarder]

OK something is changing...

I work with large pumps daily and pumps are designed to work under specific pressures. I am not familiar with panworlds but I have 16 50 hp pumps on site and if they are ran for prolonged periods outside of their curve (designed operating pressure) they will lose their pumping capacity and eventually fail the motors will be fine but the pump itself is the issue. Losing the pumping capacity would make the motor run at a higher pitched sound as it is under less strain. Also how far from the 90 is the pump actually situated on the influent end of the pump if it is too close that could lead to issues as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pascal32]

OK something is changing...

That's some good information! Sounds like you need more resistance!

 

[oneradtek202]

badda bing badda boom....lol that might be the issue, i sure hope so.....should i close off my return to provide a small amount of resistance?

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

it's a pressure rated pump

it's a pressure rated pump

restricting the output side shouldn't harm that pump.

I would still recommend eliminating the 90 (or any other restrictions) on the input side of the pump and make sure it's got the proper amount of water pressure on it's intake.

 

[khaosinc]

I would also check the input side of the pump, is it possible that its either sucking air, or getting blocked somehow?

 

[oneradtek202]

nah not sucking air, i have a bubble trap and its about 12 inches deep of water. its got to be a pressure issue. so a pressure rated pump should have some pressure to have it operating appropriately?

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

so a pressure rated pump should have some pressure to have it operating appropriately?

no-

back pressure shouldn't be necessary for such a pump to operate appropriately.

Pressure rated pumps can handle back pressure. There's a big difference between requiring back pressure and being able to handle it.

 

[oneradtek202]

but do u think that it could be contributing to the issue?

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

from your descriptions

from your descriptions

I don't see how anything on the output side would be a contributing factor to the problem you're experiencing.

 

[oneradtek202]

ok here is my plan, get rid of my 90 before the pump, and then put the slightest bit of back-pressure on the pump....we shall see. Its obv nothing wrong with the pump because this happened to the last pump....has to be in the setup....maybe too much head on it? only 6-7 feet though?? it has a max head of 12ft supposedly

 

[scott473]

You sure its only 6 or 7 feet? Figure your return on your tank is about chest high give or take, theres about 4 feet there.


BTW I took your advice, I bought a drilled tank. lol

 

[pascal32]

OK something is changing...

You mentioned the 90 BEFORE the pump (intake) - for my wahoo I read not to put a 90 before the intake. I believe it was on the reeflo site (I'm out of town on a phone)

 

[Conesus_Kid]

Have you disassembled/cleaned the pump and impeller?

 

[oneradtek202]

i did on the last one,and didnt fix it. but its only a few months old! and its doing the same thing the old one was...

 

[mr86mister]

Hmmmmm....

 

[solRNY]

this is probably far out, with a kila-watt meter it can give you an idea rather your input AC voltage is nominal, and with power or current(P=I*V) you can pick on the pump's graph of where it thinks its head pressure is just to check if things makes sense,

 

[reefboarder]

With the amount of head you have, the pressure on the pump would be good. As Gary M. has stated the issue is more likely to be in the suction end of the pump. I also believe that throttling back the pump to achieve the proper amount of flow that you desire would be better for the pump in the long run unless you have it shut way down like 1/2-3/4 closed.