One Year Anniversary Of Tidal Zone Aquarium

Dan_P

New member
Keeping Long Island Sound tidal zone flora and fauna. Before moving to CT, I owned 7 marine aquariums housing fish, soft coral and LPS. About 600 gallons of water in total. I was bitten badly by the reef aquarium bug. Ten years after moving, I decided to set up a salt water aquarium to keep local flora and fauna. I thought I would start with tidal zone creatures figuring they might not have temperature needs that would require a chiller.

The set up. Forty gallon breeder tank, glass top, two T5 lamps, small powerhead for circulation, Sterilite sump, DIY GAC reactor, DIY skimmer, 165 gallon per hour circulation from tank to sump, two 120 watt equivalent 5000 K CFL bulbs over the sump, local macro in sump. There is a two inch silica sand bed and a collection of granite stones.

Stocking history. Started with local macro algae on rock. Could not keep it alive. Who can't grow algae?!? Snails, hermit crabs and Asian Shore crabs went in next followed by grass shrimp. Continued to attempt keeping macro algae. Then came the Killifish and Pipefish. Moved inverts to the sump because the fish were harassing them. Here is a link to a short aquarium video taken around day 120.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n1TzPQzFS2Y

Here is the nitrate and phosphate chemistry and stocking history.

Stocking%20Rate_zpswxwluh1e.png


How's it going now. Fish are growing. Killifish are mating. Pipefish are eating larger food and learning to keep it away from the other fish. Macro alga is finally growing well. It stopped dying after fish were introduced and now growing vigorously. Undetectable nitrate and phosphate levels.

Surprises or things I learned along the way. Even stocking an aquarium with everything straight from the Sound, the tank went through all the phases new salt water tanks go through. I never figured out why macro algae, including hair algae, wouldn't grow until fish were added and nutrient levels became undectable.

Nitrates did not start to accumulate until snalis and crabs were in the tank. No amount of dead macro algae resulted in detectable nitrate. Phosphate started accumulating with onset of regular feeding. Nitrate level went to undetectable even though there was no live rock or algae. The sand bed from the beach was apparently enough to set up denitrification. This not surprising in light of the work reported by Toonen's on substrates and plenums. In this studies nitrates did not accumulate as fast as ammonia was consumed, indicating that even shallow sand beds are acceptable environments for denitrifying bacteria.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/6/aafeature

Cyanobacteria started in earnest after the fish went in, and in this set up, it has resisted all standard "remedies" to date. I did not try Chemiclean, or Dr. Tim's yet. The use of GAC seemed to have no impact on cyanobacteria growth and GFO while it brought phosphates down to an undetectable level, had no impact on cyanobacteria growth. Macro algae and hair alga started to grow well after nitrates and phosphates became undetectable and after GAC and GFO were in place. This could be just a coincidence but the timing is interesting.

Very recently, I siphoned off some interstitial water from the sand bed and measured the chemical levels. To my surprise, it contained 1-2 ppm of phosphate, no ammonia or nitrate, and 0.1 ppm of iron, even though the system's water has undetectable levels of iron and phosphate! Did I finally discover why my cyanobacteria did not respond to standard remedies? Is the sand bed condition the reason algae finally started growing?

Since the sand bed is my denitrification system, I did not want to disturb it by vacuuming it so I am in the process of using airline to siphon one gallon of interstitial water everyday. The first question to answer is whether I can reduce the phosphate level in the sand bed without disturbing the denitrifying bacteria, and if I do, will this finally choke off the cyanobacteria growth? After removing twenty gallons, the iron level seems down, phosphate level is about the same, cyanobacteria growth significantly diminished and nitrates still undetectable. I plan to continue removing water and measuring nutrient levels a bit longer.

What is next. In the coming year I would like to finally defeat the cyanobacteria growth (it's just not very nice to look at) and be able to grow a wider range of macro algae in the display tank while keeping the fish healthy. I also want to understand what's happening in the substrate to produce the high phosphate level.

Dan
 
Tanks looking good. If the sand is LIS beach sand, there is a fair bit of iron in it, which helps with the algae growth, along with the constant input of nutrients from having and feeding the fish ;) You might want to get rid of those Asian Shore Crabs before they get large...very destructive critters.
 
Tanks looking good. If the sand is LIS beach sand, there is a fair bit of iron in it, which helps with the algae growth, along with the constant input of nutrients from having and feeding the fish ;) You might want to get rid of those Asian Shore Crabs before they get large...very destructive critters.

The crabs were out before the fish were introduced.

Really, iron in the sand! I assume iron oxide is in the sand, and presumably, bacteria are reducing it to Fe++. I would have assumed iron would have been precipitated by the phosphate or rapidly return to rust or GFO. Looks like I need to hit the books again. Thanks.

Dan
 
That's interesting! I didn't know that there were pipefish along the US coast like that.

Couple of species. Though up in LIS it is only the Northern Pipefish (Syngnathus fuscus), with some southern species as strays in the summer.

Really, iron in the sand!

Yup, iron. It's a large component of the black sand grains, along with some garnet that lends a somewhat reddish hue.
 
Really, iron in the sand! I assume iron oxide is in the sand, and presumably, bacteria are reducing it to Fe++. I would have assumed iron would have been precipitated by the phosphate or rapidly return to rust or GFO. Looks like I need to hit the books again. Thanks.

Dan

That's a really neat tank! BTW - I'm pretty sure that all of the iron that might be in your sand would be in the GFO form (Fe2O3) rather than the hematite mineral (Fe3O4).
 
Actually magnetite ;)

Hmm - I was under the distinct impression that in the ocean, the precipitated iron was almost entirely in the form of Fe2O3 (hematite), while terrestrially or in freshwater systems, one encountered magnetite (FeO/Fe2O3). Is this not the case?
 
The sand found along the CT coast and making up LI is all terrestrial in origin. Glacial scrapings left at the foot of the last ice glacial formations ;)
 
The sand found along the CT coast and making up LI is all terrestrial in origin. Glacial scrapings left at the foot of the last ice glacial formations ;)

Well, yeah, but I was thinking that magnetite would rapidly convert to all hematite in the ocean. Learn something new every day. ;)
 
Very cool tank. I will be following along since I'm doing a more southern version of this (Chesapeake Bay). Maybe a turf scrubber will out compete the cyano?
 
Turf scrubbers are good for removing nitrates and phosphates. Cyano also chows down on organics, which turf algae doesn't. Hence it's quite possible to have low nitrates and phosphates, while still having cyano issues.
 
Turf scrubbers are good for removing nitrates and phosphates. Cyano also chows down on organics, which turf algae doesn't. Hence it's quite possible to have low nitrates and phosphates, while still having cyano issues.

So, what.....in your opinion will remove cyano?? There are many ideas, such as flow and what not. Yet, is there really a true root cause? In your opinion?

Should one run carbon really aggressively? Water changes every couple days or on the time frame of said system showing cyano growth?

Or will each system be different?
 
There are lots of approaches that seem to work, at least in some tanks, but every tank is different. Activated carbon probably won't do much, but many nutrient control methods have been effective.
 
So, what.....in your opinion will remove cyano?? There are many ideas, such as flow and what not. Yet, is there really a true root cause? In your opinion?

Should one run carbon really aggressively? Water changes every couple days or on the time frame of said system showing cyano growth?

Or will each system be different?

A couple of things to consider before battling cyano. It is the oldest known life form from the fossil record...which means it has be around quite a long time, over 3.5 billion years. It can fix atmospheric nitrogen, it photosynthesizes, it also consumes organics for energy...so it can even live in the dark and utilize the N absorbed into the water from the air. It is also found in most every habitat on the planet, including some rather extreme habitats. This is the organism your trying to control. A real survivor.

That said, it can be controlled (though not eradicated) in our aquariums. There is on one single magic bullet, but rather over all husbandry practices that can keep it at bay. Good current, excellent filteration (such as protien skimming, GAC, ozone use, etc. etc.), keep the pH up around typical reef levels, control food waste and thereby organics, nutrient control (especially phosphate and carbon), etc.
 
A couple of things to consider before battling cyano. It is the oldest known life form from the fossil record...which means it has be around quite a long time, over 3.5 billion years. It can fix atmospheric nitrogen, it photosynthesizes, it also consumes organics for energy...so it can even live in the dark and utilize the N absorbed into the water from the air. It is also found in most every habitat on the planet, including some rather extreme habitats. This is the organism your trying to control. A real survivor.

That said, it can be controlled (though not eradicated) in our aquariums. There is on one single magic bullet, but rather over all husbandry practices that can keep it at bay. Good current, excellent filteration (such as protien skimming, GAC, ozone use, etc. etc.), keep the pH up around typical reef levels, control food waste and thereby organics, nutrient control (especially phosphate and carbon), etc.

Interesting bit of info. Thank you. It is a real PITA. For sure.
 
There are lots of approaches that seem to work, at least in some tanks, but every tank is different. Activated carbon probably won't do much, but many nutrient control methods have been effective.


Isn't carbon a means of nutrient control?
 
Yes, activated carbon will bind some organics, but it doesn't seem to remove enough to help in a lot of cases. Every tank is different, though.
 

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