Optimized Beckett
- Thread starter Waylander
- Start date
NitroxBreather
New member
I made a mod with my MRC 2 and I am really impressed with the performance up grade. With my mod I did not fill the stock holes I simply added 3/32 holes to the existing stock holes.
My thoughts are that since I am using a pressure rate pump (pan world 150) the velocity of the water & air at the venturi will strip the air into fine bubbles in the pressure zone of the Beckett.
From my observations my bubble sizes at the base of the foam column are the same as before the mod. The BIG difference is the amount of air being stripped into foam column. IMO you can simple add additional holes to the stock holes with a pressure pump and the pressure at the point of venturi will do the rest.
All in all great mod.
My thoughts are that since I am using a pressure rate pump (pan world 150) the velocity of the water & air at the venturi will strip the air into fine bubbles in the pressure zone of the Beckett.
From my observations my bubble sizes at the base of the foam column are the same as before the mod. The BIG difference is the amount of air being stripped into foam column. IMO you can simple add additional holes to the stock holes with a pressure pump and the pressure at the point of venturi will do the rest.
All in all great mod.
dngspot
Premium Member
I have a scfh meter on order that will give me an accurate reading of how much air is drawn in. I will test a stock beckett and the mod, then post the results. As I mentioned I think I am getting 60 and 80 but the test may not be very accurate because I was at the lowest level of the meter I used to check it. I have not tested a stock beckett and the large meter, now that tool is at work.
Last edited:
Buganddoug
X NJRC Vice President
My stock Beckett on my MRD-2 with Blueline 55 I am pulling 45 SCFH
dngspot
Premium Member
My modified beckett is pulling 60 SCFH. The meter came in the mail. I still need to seal the lines. The reading may be higher. I used a piece of tubing I had and it did not fit as snug as I would have liked. When I turned off the valve on the gauge air was leaking around the hose.
I have been following this tread very closely and I have a couple of questions that I would like insight on. First, the skimmer I have. I have a MRC MR-2R Recirculating Skimmer with Dual-Becketts.
Questions: Is this Mod necessary if I have a Dual-Beckett like the skimmer I have? And, can anyone lend me some insight on the exact equipment needed for measuring the effectiveness of the becketts?
I really enjoy testing equipment and would like to purchase the one needed for my skimmer. And pictures and/or explaination would be greatly appreciate. I just purchased a used MRC skimmer and would to educate myself on how to get peak performance.
It is MHO that the becketts get looked over as a great skimmer now that everyone is chasing the Needle Wheel. Does this opinion hold water to other that enjoy using becketts?
Thanks a bunch and look forward to your replies.
Questions: Is this Mod necessary if I have a Dual-Beckett like the skimmer I have? And, can anyone lend me some insight on the exact equipment needed for measuring the effectiveness of the becketts?
I really enjoy testing equipment and would like to purchase the one needed for my skimmer. And pictures and/or explaination would be greatly appreciate. I just purchased a used MRC skimmer and would to educate myself on how to get peak performance.
It is MHO that the becketts get looked over as a great skimmer now that everyone is chasing the Needle Wheel. Does this opinion hold water to other that enjoy using becketts?
Thanks a bunch and look forward to your replies.
NitroxBreather
New member
FYI..I have a MRC-R2, pan world 150 driving it.
I made the mods..really like the results. I also dumped the valves. I did not like the restrictions and notice considerable air flow increase when I removed them to clean.
I simply put 90 degree 1/4 x 3/8 elbows in the becketts and angled them up. I did this to manage any water blow by. This improved air flow quite a bit. I don't have a flow meter (yet) but visibly it really bumped the air mixture up to the point I had to re-adjust the water level in the reaction chamber(down).
I made the mods..really like the results. I also dumped the valves. I did not like the restrictions and notice considerable air flow increase when I removed them to clean.
I simply put 90 degree 1/4 x 3/8 elbows in the becketts and angled them up. I did this to manage any water blow by. This improved air flow quite a bit. I don't have a flow meter (yet) but visibly it really bumped the air mixture up to the point I had to re-adjust the water level in the reaction chamber(down).
NitroxBreather
New member
There are great pics already on this thread (better than I can give you). The 90 degree elbow is just the standard white pvc quick connect fitting from Lowes/Home Depot.
-1/4 inch male thread to 3/8 inch female quick connect, if you get confused asked for the ice maker fittings.
-1/4 inch male thread to 3/8 inch female quick connect, if you get confused asked for the ice maker fittings.
Thank you for your reply. So are you saying that the stock air valve assemblies are too restrictive? The 90 degree JG elbow 1/4" x 3/8" opening allow for full air? Just trying to gain an understanding on way I should scrap the factory air valve and go with an open 90 ell?
Thanks.
Thanks.
NitroxBreather
New member
Yes, IMO that is correct. If you examine the factory valve the valve assembly is much more restrictive than the 90 elbow. You will also go from <1/4 opening to 3/8" opening with smooth, less drag resistance on the walls.
You'll notice a reduce air noise level as well (less whistle).
You'll notice a reduce air noise level as well (less whistle).
HippieSmell
Occupy Reef Central
I haven't run my skimmer for about a month, because I was tired of baby snails getting stuck in the beckett every day and having to clean it, so I took the ball out because of what you said. I really wish I had done it sooner, because now there isn't anywhere for the snails to get stuck and it works fine. It still pulls plenty of air, but there is a lot more flow through the skimmer (I wonder how that will affect it). I have an Iwaki MD55RTL running it, so I'm not sure how a lesser pump will fare.
thephoenix48
New member
skimmer results
skimmer results
I took an old beckett and plugged the holes. Then drilled 34 1/16" holes and tried it out. I actually think I am getting less air but the foam head is very stable and dry. Less air is a relative term as the beckett makes the 5 foot column look like milk anyway it is just that the bubbles are just as small or smaller. There are no large bubbles at the top. The sound of air being sucked in the valve is less so that makes me think there is less air. There is definitely less turbulence and I think this contributes to the foam head being thicker and more stable.
I think I should enlarge the holes to 3/32 or drill another row. I would have never believed that the beckett would work at all without the ball/divider assembly inside but several folks in this post have said it will so I might try that as well. Any other suggestions?
I am running an iwaki 55rlt (japanese model). I tried a blue line 1000 with the unmodified becket but that was too much pump. Maybe with the modified beckett but I think it is still overkill. It is a 5 foot tall DIY skimmer , 6 " in diameter designed like an overgrown Lifereef countercurrent with the output at the bottom so total travel distance for 90% of the bubbles is approximately 15 feet. This gives plenty of contact time.
skimmer results
I took an old beckett and plugged the holes. Then drilled 34 1/16" holes and tried it out. I actually think I am getting less air but the foam head is very stable and dry. Less air is a relative term as the beckett makes the 5 foot column look like milk anyway it is just that the bubbles are just as small or smaller. There are no large bubbles at the top. The sound of air being sucked in the valve is less so that makes me think there is less air. There is definitely less turbulence and I think this contributes to the foam head being thicker and more stable.
I think I should enlarge the holes to 3/32 or drill another row. I would have never believed that the beckett would work at all without the ball/divider assembly inside but several folks in this post have said it will so I might try that as well. Any other suggestions?
I am running an iwaki 55rlt (japanese model). I tried a blue line 1000 with the unmodified becket but that was too much pump. Maybe with the modified beckett but I think it is still overkill. It is a 5 foot tall DIY skimmer , 6 " in diameter designed like an overgrown Lifereef countercurrent with the output at the bottom so total travel distance for 90% of the bubbles is approximately 15 feet. This gives plenty of contact time.
Say what is everyone doing about the the connection to the nozzel. Are you guys removing the inner collar to try to maintain 3/4" or what. It appears most of you all are using straight PVC fittings to tie to the housing. Some of you appear to be using 1" fittings.
My houseing is 2" PVC pipe and Fittings. But I drilled through the 2" cap to slip the inside collar of the beckett through. So I'm less than 5/8" ID at the beckett.
Dan
My houseing is 2" PVC pipe and Fittings. But I drilled through the 2" cap to slip the inside collar of the beckett through. So I'm less than 5/8" ID at the beckett.
Dan
gary faulkner
New member
Great pumps. I use one for the Beckett and one for the return.
