OT - Finally some pics with my new Canon Xsi

nightOwl

Premium Member
So a box of goodies arrived today and in it was my new Canon 100 mm macro and some hood covers. I was excited to finally be able to take the camera out and play around with it so I went walking along the trail and the following pictures are some of the shots I captured today. I will get around to taking some tank shots soon.

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They all look overexposed (too bright) to me. Try switching to manual mode and knock that exposure down a notch! Probably -2/3 or maybe even just -1/3 on some.
 
TitusvileSurfer,
Thanks for the feedback. Should the Exposure Compensation always be on the negative side instead of zero? I am still waiting on my understanding exposure book to arrive but got a little excited when the lens arrived today.
 
No it should not always be in any certain place. If that were the case, automatic settings would rule and Manual mode would have no point. You will have to observe the situation and decide if it should be less than 0, 0, or greater than 0. The Understand Exposure book is all about that. I also have that book and he talks about "Mr. Blue Sky" and "Mr. Green Jeans". Mr. Blue Sky is...well...the sky. But you will want to meter a certain distance from the Sun.
Mr. Green Jeans refers (basically) to plants. Your camera sees light way different than humans do. To the camera everything looks like different shades of gray. Take a peek at a black and white picture of some trees. Unless the photographer does something to prevent it, the leaves on those trees will be very dark, almost black. The camera sees those dark leaves and brightens the exposure to make them gray. The result is a very bright picture.
So for "Mr. Green Jeans", you make the image -2/3 of a stop darker than the camera thinks it should be. This balances everything out to how we think it should be.

Have you even noticed gray snow in a picture? It probably wouldn't be hard to find an example. The camera thinks the snow should be gray...so it recommends an exposure which is too dark. You need to go on the + side of 0 to balance everything out.
 
Thanks again for the heads up :). I think the exposure will be a big learning curve with the new camera. I can already see the difference in the picture quality versus my old Olympus so I am still excited about that. I think I will hold off on any more pictures until my book comes and I get to read about Mr Blue and Green Jeans. I think that will help me get some good pictures of the tank :).
 
I can already see the difference in the picture quality versus my old Olympus so I am still excited about that.

Congrats on the new lens. After using my 50D and 100mm macro lens, when I use my S5IS or S70, the first thing that strikes me is the loss of optical sweetness. Makes me want to get that 24-70 L lens so I can use my 50D for just about everything.
 
I took few pics with the kit lens and was not that impressed. That has been the main reason my camera has been sitting around...lol. When I pulled this baby out the box I could tell the difference in build quality. I have the 50 mm f1/4 coming...it was on back order. What's the S70? I think I am a bit torn on my next purchase for this camera. I have a lens line up...lol the 24-70 mm or something comparable, the 70-200 mm f2.8 IS and recently added I want a 10 -20 mm. I have been lurking on a photography forum and just seeing the pictures some of these lenses can take is amazing.
 
This is not POTN. You do know that here you're not required to post a duck picture. :D



Congrats!
 
The S5IS and S70 are my point and shoot cameras.

Yes, seeing the amazing pics some of those lenses can take reinforces for me how the lens is the primary instrument of beautiful image capture. The camera back is important too but it's the lens that deposits the image on the image sensor. Without quality and resolution there, how well it gets recorded is not important.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14659134#post14659134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nightOwl
I took few pics with the kit lens and was not that impressed. That has been the main reason my camera has been sitting around...lol. When I pulled this baby out the box I could tell the difference in build quality. I have the 50 mm f1/4 coming...it was on back order. What's the S70? I think I am a bit torn on my next purchase for this camera. I have a lens line up...lol the 24-70 mm or something comparable, the 70-200 mm f2.8 IS and recently added I want a 10 -20 mm. I have been lurking on a photography forum and just seeing the pictures some of these lenses can take is amazing.
I have every lens you just mentioned and love them all (especially the 24-70 & 70-200 f/2.8 IS WOW)
 
beerguy - Yea I have been hanging out on that forum a lot lately :) along with a few others. I posted it here since it had some color in it. I think I will eventually get around to posting a duck picture on POTN once I get the hang of the camera.

Reef Bass - LOL I was thinking the S5IS was some new slang for the kit lens. I read it as 55 IS as in 18-55mm image stabilization...lol. Thanks for clearing up they are point and shot cameras. I guess now that I have a real camera there are so many things I have to and am able to work on when taking pictures. Exposure, aperture, composition, etc. I have been afraid to go manual since I am so using auto on my old camera.

TitusvileSurfer - I find my list is steady growing. I love photography and will never be any good at it but I plan on looking good while taking my photos...lol. It's bad when you make a wish list of lenses and then sit down and calculate how many frags you have to sell to buy a new lens...lol. I think I may need a lens budget...lol.

General question for you all did any of you calibrate your monitor when you purchased the new camera and if so what software did you use? After TitusvileSurfer's comment on my exposure of the photos I noticed that in Photoshop, Windows Picture and Fax Viewer and Canon's Digital Photo Professional I notice some slight differences. I have to figure out which one is giving me the truest color of the photos and stick editing in that one.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14659856#post14659856 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nightOwl

General question for you all did any of you calibrate your monitor when you purchased the new camera and if so what software did you use?

I borrow the Spyder3 Pro at work to calibrate my monitor. It was a HUGE difference maker and it actually takes getting used to.
 
I purchased Datacolor Spyder3 Pro from B&H and it made a large positive improvement in my desktop monitor's picture. I also installed and ran it on my laptop and it improved the picture there as well.
 
Thanks for the input on the monitor calibration software. I have been checking the prices of the Spyder3 Pro and think that is something I will definitely add to my list of items...lol. This new camera is turning out to be a new money pit :). In the long run though I think it will all pay off.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14672060#post14672060 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nightOwl
This new camera is turning out to be a new money pit :).
Nobody can say I don't take every opportunity to warn people that this is NOT for those with a $500 budget. These are $2000 budget cameras.
 
Reef Bass,
Thanks for the welcome :). I tried out some macros yesterday and have two questions for you.

1. How far away from your tank are normally set up when taking photos?
2. Are you cropping your pictures in post processing?

I looked at my pictures and so far I am not happy with the quality of how close and they are getting :(. Currently I am attributing that to user error :). So any tips you can give would be helpful.


TitusvileSurfer,
You are right in your warning to everyone which is why my budget for the camera in excess of $2000 :). It's like setting up your first saltwater tank. You do you research create your budget and the items you "need". While reviewing you find out if you spend a weeeeeee bit more you can purchase item "x" which is better than item "y" or see some item someone else is using and you "need" that as well. Balancing my "needs" and wants is the money pit part :).
 
My distance from the tank generally varies from right up against the glass to 3 feet away, depending on how much I'm trying to get in frame and how far back from the front glass the subject is.

My lens has a minimum distance to focus of about 6 inches. When I'm that close to a coral, about one square inch of the subject is in frame. When I was trying to get a shot of my entire peach Millepora (about 8 inches across?), I had to move about 3 feet back to get it all in frame.

Yes, I crop pretty much every image but the amount of cropping varies tremendously. Ideally the image I seek is perfectly composed in the viewfinder with every last megapixel of optical goodness devoted to the image. That happens about once a year for me. Usually I crop for aspect ratio. My camera shoots 1.5:1 in the mode I use and I often make 5x7 prints, so I crop the 1.5:1 original to 1.4:1 (5x7). A small amount of cropping.

Occasionally the only part of the captured image I want is a fraction of the original image. With a 15meg+ original image size, I can crop a lot out and still end up with a decent pic for monitor display though prints suffer tremendously. When I notice I've cropped out more than 1/2 or 2/3rds of the original image, I usually try to reshoot so that the part I want is doing a better job of filling the frame in the image capture.

One shot I took I noticed a postage stamp size area of the original image that I liked. After cropping I had too few pixels to work with, so I went back and shot a viewfinder full of just that area. Much better!

My usual suggestions include using a tripod (to hold camera still for longer exposure), a remote shutter release or timer (to keep from jiggling the camera while pressing the shutter release on the camera), shooting straight through the glass (to avoid clarity and sharpness ruining distortion) and focusing manually.

A common user error with point and shoots especially is getting too close to the subject or zooming in too much to the point where the camera is simply incapable of focusing on the subject. Simply taking one step back can resolve much of that. I'd rather see an image that's sharp but not incredibly close up than a close up blurry image.

Please also post a pic that's giving you trouble. The people here are very kind and usually quite helpful. While producing a stellar image can induce a wonderful feeling of pride and accomplishment, I find working with troublesome images helps me to learn more.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14679537#post14679537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef Bass
A common user error with point and shoots especially is getting too close to the subject or zooming in too much to the point where the camera is simply incapable of focusing on the subject. Simply taking one step back can resolve much of that. I'd rather see an image that's sharp but not incredibly close up than a close up blurry image.
Here-Here!
 
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