Over the tank sump

7. Now the low baffles (overflow) side panes go in.

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8. And the front overflow pane.

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9. The front pane.

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10. The covers aren't glued.

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weldon # 3 for the solvent and weldon # 16 for the thick stuff. The front panels are all thick solvent joined.

The inflow box front, the internal overflow front, and the main tank front... these will be glued using # 16.
 
I think if you are going to use 16, you might as well do the rest in a more standard order... I would:

Bond the short baffles to the front baffle.

Bond the ends, long baffles, short baffle assembly and input dividers onto the back face.

Flip the thing onto the front face and bond the joints on the ends and baffles.

Lay the whole assembly on the bottom and bond everything that touches: faces, ends, short baffles, and input dividers to the bottom. Here its more important to get the outside faces and ends properly bonded than the baffles/dividers. You can fillet those if they don't come out great.

Using 16 add the face to the dividers.

I just wouldn't want to use 16 for anything on the outside tank walls...
 
There is one more restriction.

The assembly will likely have to happen in place - on the wooden platform over the tank. There are four 3/8" threaded rods that hold the platform up. They run every 2ft or so and I can probably only removed one of them during this work. That'll give me room to remove the existing surge and take material up.

I can't assemble the tank, and then position it up there. I need to build it where it needs to go. The tank is 19" high and the total available height is 28" to the ceiling. So that gives me 9" to work from above...

That's why I'm working from the front.

I agree on using wet solvent on the outside. All the edges should be accessible front outside except the raised baffles' front edges. Those are less critical anyhow.
 
Ok - This takes a while to read through and (try to) get my mind around, but here are questions/thoughts I had:

  • How will an ATO work? They are generally designed to work in a static, steady state situation. By definition a surge system isn't. You're planning on having the surge inactive at night, so perhaps you could just have the ATO on at night.
  • Having the sump on top will make if difficult to do maintenance. Hopefully you won't need much, but there's always some, and definitely more than you have now with just a water tank. Is there enough room to get the DSB buckets out if you need to?

    Is it possible to rig a temporary support so you can remove the verticals and slide the surge/sump tank in place instead of having to build it in place? That process would worry me - one mistake in the construction and you're screwed, and you can't check the integrity of the tank in a safer location before installation.
  • How are you planning on tuning the overflow in the DT? What kind of overflow will it be? Again, not having a steady state makes it difficult.
  • Why the pipe from the overflow up to the surge tank?
  • Will there be anything in the top tank that could conceivably clog the emergency overflow?
  • Where there be any flow from the under tank sump to the DT, or just up to the surge tank? Trying to think if there's any advantage to having an emergency drain from the surge down to the sump. Don't think so.
  • What will happen if one of the actuators gets stuck and the surge gets left on? The entire volume of that side of the surge tank will drain down. Can the DT and overflows handle the volume? What if both actuators fail open?
  • you mentioned decreased flow rate from the surge d/t a lower head height. If this is an issue can you increase the pipe size?
  • why did you decide to go with 5 pipes?
  • I'd skip the top over the chaeto section at least. Acrylic tops are notorious for blocking light
  • will the humidity up by the ceiling be an issue? I'd consider putting some sort of plastic panel on the ceiling to protect the sheet rock (like you can get at Hope Depot to go on bathroom walls, etc.
  • Make sure the emergency overflow is big enough to handle all the flow if necessary. Is a 1" height above it enough?
  • Will having the surge trigger height above the refugium overflow baffle cause chaeto or other undesirable material to make it into the DT? The flow is high enough that you probably don't need the 'surge' action on the chaeto. Either way, the current setup will likely have significantly less of a surge to the chaeto than you have now.

I think thats' about it. It's a cool idea, but a major undertaking! There are not many if any people who have experience with a setup like this, so most advice you get is not going to be from experience, but I'm sure you realize that already.
 
THANKS SLEEPYDOC! Great to have so many awesome questions.

So, I have an actuated surge now, so some of these I've already gotten working. I answered in BLUE below.


  • How will an ATO work? They are generally designed to work in a static, steady state situation. By definition a surge system isn't. You're planning on having the surge inactive at night, so perhaps you could just have the ATO on at night.

    I have an ATO sensor in the sump set at the lowest level when the surge reservoir is completely full. This means that while I'm filling up the reservoir, the sump is artificially high. That's ok - the ATO just doesn't run during that time, but once it's full, if the water level is too low, the ATO kicks in and runs for 10 minutes (hold up time). I'm essentially running ATO intermittently whenever the reservoir is full, but that works really well.

  • Having the sump on top will make if difficult to do maintenance. Hopefully you won't need much, but there's always some, and definitely more than you have now with just a water tank. Is there enough room to get the DSB buckets out if you need to?

    YES. That's exactly what I designed it for. The ATO buckets are 7" high and I left 10" to allow clearance to work in there. A full reservoir weighs so much that my weight is a fraction in comparison.

  • Is it possible to rig a temporary support so you can remove the verticals and slide the surge/sump tank in place instead of having to build it in place? That process would worry me - one mistake in the construction and you're screwed, and you can't check the integrity of the tank in a safer location before installation.

    I'm going to remove the middle two threaded rods and replace the supports with a 2x4 frame. The difficulty is in rethreading them. They were painful to install the first time, so I'm dreading that already. Doing all 4 is a nightmare, but it's worth rethinking.

  • How are you planning on tuning the overflow in the DT? What kind of overflow will it be? Again, not having a steady state makes it difficult.

    My current surge has that problem too. I use a BA but it really only works at night during steady state. During a partial surge (one outlet), the secondary can keep up a little, but it never goes full siphon before the emergency kicks in. I have two emergency overflows. This is actually the only source of bubbles since the actuators are fully submerged and bubble free. I don't have a good solution for this yet (I have a bad solution, but more on that later). Having it in the garage minimizes any noise.

  • Why the pipe from the overflow up to the surge tank?

    There's really no point running from the sump to the reservoir. It's less distance and height, so I get more flow starting from the overflow instead of going down to the sump. I do this now and it works pretty well. This also reduces the bubbles created from the sump emergency flows. In this new setup, the sump is really only there are a catch for the surge to flow down into. Without it, the tank level would fluctuate.

  • Will there be anything in the top tank that could conceivably clog the emergency overflow?

    Not that I can think of unless a thick matt of chaeto were to break free... maybe I should have two openings in the top, just in case. I'll add a tee and a secondary elbow.

  • Where there be any flow from the under tank sump to the DT, or just up to the surge tank? Trying to think if there's any advantage to having an emergency drain from the surge down to the sump. Don't think so.

    There will be some. I have a slow flow UV that goes from sump to DT. I also have my skimmer return in the sump second stage and I'll be moving that up to my DT too. I have a GFO too, I might return that back to the DT. As far as an emergency drain to the sump, I don't see it doing anything that running to the DT won't do. I like having it in the DT so I can see it.


  • What will happen if one of the actuators gets stuck and the surge gets left on? The entire volume of that side of the surge tank will drain down. Can the DT and overflows handle the volume? What if both actuators fail open?

    Yes. I designed the sump to be able to handle all the volume in the DT surge sections. I also have an aux sump on the side that can handle all the volume. If open fails open, it turns into an open loop where all the flow up becomes flow down - lots of bubbles, but no major harm. In fact, the flow rate will be the same as the pumps and less than a surge flow. In this case, the sump and DT would essentially be operating like a conventional tank.

    The ATO might stop and salinity might start to go up if this is the case for an extended period (like a month).


  • you mentioned decreased flow rate from the surge d/t a lower head height. If this is an issue can you increase the pipe size?

    Wow.. I'm at 2". At 3", the pipes become a significant part of the DT. The reduction in flow is actually ok. My current surge is probably excessively fast.

  • why did you decide to go with 5 pipes?

    I have 5 pumps and I want to maximize flow.

  • I'd skip the top over the chaeto section at least. Acrylic tops are notorious for blocking light

    I agree. My latest iteration removes it. I will likely add a coat of paint or plastic to the ceiling given the potential for excessive humidity and condensation though. That'll be behind the lights though.

  • will the humidity up by the ceiling be an issue? I'd consider putting some sort of plastic panel on the ceiling to protect the sheet rock (like you can get at Hope Depot to go on bathroom walls, etc.

    Aha! I answered one before you asked. Really, I didn't read these all the way before I started answering.

  • Make sure the emergency overflow is big enough to handle all the flow if necessary. Is a 1" height above it enough?

    A 2" open PVC pipe should be able to handle 5000gph. That's if all pumps are on at full blast. With 1" over it, it should support the flow. I think I'll add an emergency sensor at the surge tank top level JUST IN CASE! If it ever gets triggered, the pumps shut down.

  • Will having the surge trigger height above the refugium overflow baffle cause chaeto or other undesirable material to make it into the DT? The flow is high enough that you probably don't need the 'surge' action on the chaeto. Either way, the current setup will likely have significantly less of a surge to the chaeto than you have now.

    In my current setup, the chaeto is constantly flushed and backflushed. This has been very valuable is shaking detritus free and keeping the sump healthy. It's also been good at moving living things moving up.. tiny starfish and pods come flying out of the returns. some chaeto too. My tangs consider it feeding time.

    I have an eggcrate structure that holds the chaeto in place so only fine breakings ever get shaken loose.

 
ok. added a 2x3" PVC reducer to the emergency overflow and doubled up on it...

paranoid much?

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ok. on to my bad bubble reducing in the sump idea...

The bubbles are created when the surge drives through the emergency overflow in the DT down to the sump... and then when the surge volume crashes over the high baffle in the sump.

My sump is narrow - only 24" wide. That constriction only exacerbates the bubbles.

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So, my idea is to change the slope of the flow from the high baffle across the full length of the sump.

I'm adding a 4' eggcrate section that pivots at the top of the high baffle. It's covered with a fine mesh to allow some flow (like a classic wet dry). At the far end, there are two sponges that help it float so that it rises and falls with the water level in the sump.

This creates a slow gradual decline from the baffle top to the water level.
 
I have an ATO sensor in the sump set at the lowest level when the surge reservoir is completely full. This means that while I'm filling up the reservoir, the sump is artificially high. That's ok - the ATO just doesn't run during that time, but once it's full, if the water level is too low, the ATO kicks in and runs for 10 minutes (hold up time). I'm essentially running ATO intermittently whenever the reservoir is full, but that works really well.
Yeah, that should work fine. The ATO only has to keep salinity changes small enough so the critters don't notice, so having it functional part of the time would work just fine
YES. That's exactly what I designed it for. The ATO buckets are 7" high and I left 10" to allow clearance to work in there. A full reservoir weighs so much that my weight is a fraction in comparison.
How big is the new sump? Even if it's 100 gallons, say 1000 lbs including the tank, you could easily add 20% to that. Either way make sure the support can handle the weight. (I'm sure you've done this, but a failure here is more than a disaster!
I'm going to remove the middle two threaded rods and replace the supports with a 2x4 frame. The difficulty is in rethreading them. They were painful to install the first time, so I'm dreading that already. Doing all 4 is a nightmare, but it's worth rethinking.
How do you have them attached? Have you considered coupling nuts? If you have to unthread the entire rod, could you use a drill?

I have two emergency overflows.
Good idea to have 2 overflows. In reality, you have to have the capacity to handle the peak flow into the tank, not the average flow. In your case, the peak flow is very high.
There's really no point running from the sump to the reservoir. It's less distance and height, so I get more flow starting from the overflow instead of going down to the sump. I do this now and it works pretty well. This also reduces the bubbles created from the sump emergency flows. In this new setup, the sump is really only there are a catch for the surge to flow down into. Without it, the tank level would fluctuate.
Ok - I didn't see a pump for that pipe. How do you keep it from vortexing and creating bubbles?

Not that I can think of unless a thick matt of chaeto were to break free... maybe I should have two openings in the top, just in case. I'll add a tee and a secondary elbow.
I wouldn't think that chaeto could clog it - the pipes are big enough and the flow strong enough that I would be really surprised.

There will be some. I have a slow flow UV that goes from sump to DT. I also have my skimmer return in the sump second stage and I'll be moving that up to my DT too. I have a GFO too, I might return that back to the DT. As far as an emergency drain to the sump, I don't see it doing anything that running to the DT won't do. I like having it in the DT so I can see it.
I don't have a feel for overall flow rates/patterns between the sump/display/surge tanks. Any concern that the flow/turnover in the bottom tank will be too low for filtering/water conditioning? Would it be better to have these up top since that's where the majority of the flow will be?
Yes. I designed the sump to be able to handle all the volume in the DT surge sections. I also have an aux sump on the side that can handle all the volume. If open fails open, it turns into an open loop where all the flow up becomes flow down - lots of bubbles, but no major harm. In fact, the flow rate will be the same as the pumps and less than a surge flow. In this case, the sump and DT would essentially be operating like a conventional tank.
:thumbsup:
Wow.. I'm at 2". At 3", the pipes become a significant part of the DT. The reduction in flow is actually ok. My current surge is probably excessively fast.
Ok - that's big enough!
A 2" open PVC pipe should be able to handle 5000gph. That's if all pumps are on at full blast. With 1" over it, it should support the flow. I think I'll add an emergency sensor at the surge tank top level JUST IN CASE! If it ever gets triggered, the pumps shut down.
My main concern was that it would likely be vortexing and entraining air, reducing the capacity. I don't have a good feel for whether this would be significant or not.


Interesting idea on the 'bubble trap' I can't totally picture it, but would the mesh tend to trap detritus? How much flow do you have through your sump? Would something similar, like a chute for the water to travel down on its way in reduce the bubbles?
 
On the surge platform...

The current surge reservoir is 100gal ~ 800lbs. The new one is 220gal. So that's a total weight of 1800lbs. I'm 200 something... so 10%. LOL

The tank is bolted into the wall studs in the back and side. The long side is bolted into a 2x12 that was put up when I took the wall down to make the opening for the tank. That holds up about half of the weight ~ 900lbs.

The front ~900lbs is held up by four 3/8" threaded rod. That's 4 x 600lbs = 2400lbs strength - so lots of margin. Less margin than when it was just carrying 800lbs, but the math is still more than 2x margin.

I use coupling nuts to connect them. I used 3/8" wood screw rods and then coupling nuts to the threaded rods. The screw sections are screwed into the load bearing ceiling trusses that I believe are 2x6s and they're connected to a 2x12.

The rods go through the 2x4s making up the frame of my platform and then washers and nuts.

I used a drill to get them through the holes in the wood frame originally. The rods were a little off center so they were digging into the wood... the long side of the 2x4 is 3.5"... so that was a lot of friction to drive against by hand.

I'm going to use a 2x4 frame while I load it up the first time...
 
I have one emergency overflow now and the only time it ran is when I was first programming the surge actuators and would do something that kept them closed with the pump running... like if the water level sensor was stuck or I had a bug in my code.

It is VERY important. I will never design any tank or system without emergency overflows.
 
On the return pumps from the overflow to the surge...

Each pump in the overflow is only running about 1000gph. So with a downturned elbow and about 4" of water above it consistently, it never creates a vortex.

If the water level in the overflow drops... that's when it sucks air.

But the bubbles go into the surge reservoir and that is basically non-moving for minutes at a time while it fills up, so most of the bubbles dissipate before they're released into the DT.
 
There's no filtration in the sump. It's really just a large overflow catch for the surge events.

I use the first stage to feed my skimmer, hold my heaters, test my water params (salinity, pH, temp), a small GFO, a 40W UV, and feed my chiller.

The rest holds my chaeto and DSB buckets now and that'll transition to the surge.

I have no mechanical filtration. So the rest of the sump will just be dedicated to bubble removal and ATO level sensing.

Currently, half of my flow goes up to the surge from the DT overflow. The other half goes to the sump and is returned back up to the DT. About 1000gph each. So the tank sees a total of 2000gph.

The new setup will have 2000gph up to the surge from the DT and 3000gph from the sump to the surge for a total of 5000gph. The surge into the DT will have both a continuous flow return at about 4000gph and a surge flow return at an average of 1000gph (intermittently much higher, of course).
 
If the emergency overflow is activated, I WANT a vortex. I want plenty of bubbles as an immediate visual alarm that something is wrong and I need to get on it...
 
On my sump bubble catching "floating" platform...

today my sump sees about 1000gph. When I first started the setup, I used my dolphin and had 5000gph running through the 24" width and the bubbles were insane. The new setup will have about 3000gph through the sump.

The mesh should be a large opening mesh - I don't want mechanical filtration. If it starts to trap detritus, I'll convert it to a flat 1/8" acrylic sheet over eggrate with a grid of small holes (like a classic wet dry used to have). The idea is to have a thin layer of water sloping gently into the water level vs. a crashing waterfall that traditional baffles have.

The reason I like the dripping water like a wet dry is that I remember that it used to reduce my bubbles by controlling the size of the droplets impacting the water surface on the bottom. It created decent gas exchange but without generating fine bubbles.

This is my "bad" idea because I have no idea how much of this will work, but there will be nothing else in the sump, so I can experiment.
 
On my sump bubble catching "floating" platform...

today my sump sees about 1000gph. When I first started the setup, I used my dolphin and had 5000gph running through the 24" width and the bubbles were insane. The new setup will have about 3000gph through the sump.

The mesh should be a large opening mesh - I don't want mechanical filtration. If it starts to trap detritus, I'll convert it to a flat 1/8" acrylic sheet over eggrate with a grid of small holes (like a classic wet dry used to have). The idea is to have a thin layer of water sloping gently into the water level vs. a crashing waterfall that traditional baffles have.

The reason I like the dripping water like a wet dry is that I remember that it used to reduce my bubbles by controlling the size of the droplets impacting the water surface on the bottom. It created decent gas exchange but without generating fine bubbles.

This is my "bad" idea because I have no idea how much of this will work, but there will be nothing else in the sump, so I can experiment.

The things that worry me about it are the 'wet dry' aspect - wet dry filters were notorious for causing high nitrates - and the dripping part. Even if it isn't causing large bubbles, that seems like a setup for a lot of salt creep.

you have a lot of flow going through a pretty narrow sump, so any sort of bubble trap will be problematic; the flow will tend to pull the bubbles down under the trap. Would something like a filter sock or piece of sponge work? You'd still have to change them regularly to prevent nitrate buildup, but I wonder if a mechanical filter might work better for the bubbles.
 
I firmly believe in no mechanical filtration of any kind.

They're the real dirt traps.

I tried socks and they trapped tons of pods.

The wet-dry were nitrate factories because the bio balls had large surface areas of oxygen/water interfaces. Without power denitration, this became a nitrate factory.

The drip really didn't do much imho, except oxygenation. The drops actually coalesced the micro bubbles.

Having said that, I've never tried it with this level of flow.
 
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