Owners Thread: Innovative Marine Fusion 40

Pretty bulletproof plumbing ya got there! It's almost like your are preparing for a bigger tank!

That would be correct, sir! I've tried to purchase equipment that will scale with an eventual upgrade. The skimmer probably is the one piece of gear that has to be purchased "right-size" for the individual tank. And I'll probably switch over to the SpectraPure media reactors for carbon, GFO, and biopellets. I really like the way SpectraPure plumbs them with the valves that allow flow to each cartridge to be controlled individually.
 
So, may I impose on anyone who has a nicely organized and mounted system to please post some pictures of the handiwork as it would be, by me, much appreciated.

I don't think mine would win any awards but I don't believe it's a huge fire hazard either.

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I used 3M Command strips to mount everything except for the Energy Bar, and it's attached with the included screws. The only thing that I've had not work well with the Command strips is oddly the Netgear WiFi bridge - which weighs not much more than the strip itself. I'll chalk that one up to some sort of weird user error. You can see it just resting on top of the Apex controller in that photo above. Avast ATO sensor module is there on the back wall, right corner, below the Apex. The thin wire at the top on the left wall of the stand goes to the Apex display on the front of the stand. Lots of people, I think, place the display inside the stand. Really up to your personal preference, but it does offer a key lock to keep the small people from obliterating your tank. On the right side you can see the Energy Bar, the WXM module to control the Vortech, the ALD module, and the Vortech driver itself.

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If I had it all to do over again, I would have ordered every module and accessory at the same time. My install started out looking less messy but it starts getting difficult to manage all the cable runs, especially when you add things on piece by piece.

The pain is figuring out how to handle all the excess USB cabling. I've used twist ties wherever possible and left the cords rolled as they were from the factory as much as possible. Still a lot of cable slack there. I checked out a couple of sites that purportedly build custom-length USB cables. Yea... I think I'll be sticking with the rat's nest after seeing the prices...
 
If I had it all to do over again, I would have ordered every module and accessory at the same time. My install started out looking less messy but it starts getting difficult to manage all the cable runs, especially when you add things on piece by piece.

The pain is figuring out how to handle all the excess USB cabling. I've used twist ties wherever possible and left the cords rolled as they were from the factory as much as possible. Still a lot of cable slack there. I checked out a couple of sites that purportedly build custom-length USB cables. Yea... I think I'll be sticking with the rat's nest after seeing the prices...

I think I ordered everything and I will not start the build until I am firmly convinced that I have everything.

As for handling the excess wires, what I am thinking is employing a false wall of sorts towards the front of the cabinet. On the side facing the door (and me when I open said door), I will just mount the modules, with the wires "disappearing" behind the false wall thought appropriately-sized holes. On the back side of the false wall, I will zip-tie all of the excess wires and plugs (I also plan on putting the energy bar behind the false wall), etc. This way, when I open the cabinet, I will only see the control modules nicely mounted with the proverbial "rat's nest" as organized as possible behind the false wall. I plan on using hinges to allow that false wall to be opened from the front for access as needed for maintenance, etc.

At least, that is the dream in my head right now . . .
 
I like that plan. That should look really good. Somewhere along the way, I saw a build with a similar false wall and took note of the grommets. Look at Doug Mockett and Company - they have some really pleasant-looking wire grommets if you end up needing any of those. Excited to see your build progress! Take good notes so you can repeat the process and sell me one! :)

I think I ordered everything and I will not start the build until I am firmly convinced that I have everything.

As for handling the excess wires, what I am thinking is employing a false wall of sorts towards the front of the cabinet. On the side facing the door (and me when I open said door), I will just mount the modules, with the wires "disappearing" behind the false wall thought appropriately-sized holes. On the back side of the false wall, I will zip-tie all of the excess wires and plugs (I also plan on putting the energy bar behind the false wall), etc. This way, when I open the cabinet, I will only see the control modules nicely mounted with the proverbial "rat's nest" as organized as possible behind the false wall. I plan on using hinges to allow that false wall to be opened from the front for access as needed for maintenance, etc.

At least, that is the dream in my head right now . . .
 
So from what I've read and understand, I'm going back with the ammonia theory. A nitrate spike would most likely be tolerated by the life. I, along with other reefers prefer just a tiny bit of nitrates in my tank, the corals seem to like it and the fish don't appear to care. Ammonia otoh, is toxic to most. Some fish will tolerate small amounts, depending on the dissolved oxygen levels.
Thinking about your loss, there are two potential causes that probably interacted to cause the fatality. Fish were not 100% well. Treating for parasites will weaken their immune systems. The shrimp going south probably rotted a bit since the cuc didn't finish it off, which caused the rise in ammonia. The fish were added during this spike. And in their compromised condition, they perished.
Monday morning quarterback in me says better circ may have prevented this. The more water movement, the faster the recycle and better exchange of oxygen.
It sucks no matter the cause, but knowing why can help prevent it from reoocuring.

Ammonia was back to 0 today but yeah, my theory was ammonia spike. That said, i realized today (by testing a fresh mix) that the reef crystals salt mix has a dkh of 14-16. I think this has been my underlying problem as I have had trouble getting it back in range for a few weeks now. Testing a fresh mix is something I now believe in for sure. As for playing monday morning QB - been doing that non stop since things went south.

A slight bit of good news is that the blenny seems to be settling in and I'm now hopeful he will survive. I'm going to slowly lower my dkh with some Oceanic salt and hopefully I'll be able to post a video of a happy tank in a week or so.
 
I will not get sucked into a pic of my rats nest.
I will not get sucked into a pic of my rats nest.
I will not get sucked into a pic of my rats nest.

It's like Beetlejuice. If I say it three times it will happen.

LOL. When it's being installed, do it right and tie wrap everything neatly. Hang your modules neatly. Route your AC neatly.
Six months later, you won't do it. A year later, you won't do it.
Trust me. Once you close that door, it will not get done...ever.

On a somber note, I am pretty sure Frank is gone. Either he passed and was eaten by cuc, or he jumped and the beagle ate him off the floor.
Either way, he's gone. RIP funny fish....
 
On a somber note, I am pretty sure Frank is gone. Either he passed and was eaten by cuc, or he jumped and the beagle ate him off the floor.
Either way, he's gone. RIP funny fish....

Sorry for the loss, Reduck. Never pleasant. But I guess if there's a bright spot in the whole situation, it's that he passed before the big tank move. Whatever happened to him, at least it won't leave you wondering if it was related to the move.
 
Pics and equipment....

Pics and equipment....

Well, after about a week and a half of wiring, fiddling round, learning the Apex etc, I'm about 90% done. All the equipment is installed. I just need to hoof up the ATO to the breakout box, and get an RF module for my MP10QD. After that the bulk of the work is done. I'll be eying up mu SPS. I added some frogspawns, a hammer and 2 snowflake clowns earlier in the week. All the parameters are perfecto! Only complaint I'm having is that I can't seem to get the skimmer to get that nasty oily film off the top of my water. I have skimmate daily, and I'm working with it for consistency. It's a Tunze 9004. I turned up and moved up the MP10 to get to get more surface agitation, and I do have the spin streams. The water is flowing over the back of the tank, and I have the skimmer in the first chamber (all the way to the right). Any help would be appreciated. I'm, running 4oz of carbon in my Mini Max so the water is crystal clear, it's just the surface I can't seem to get clear. Thanks in advance.
 

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Anyone ever had the dry side of a Vortech just randomly fall off??? Mine just randomly fell off about five minutes ago. Busted out the flashlight thinking I would find a snail or something in the wet side, but saw nothing. Turned off the power long enough to get it reattached and it's fine now. No strange noises, nothing was moved around, absolutely no idea why it just randomly decided to fall off tonight.
 
Anyone ever had the dry side of a Vortech just randomly fall off??? Mine just randomly fell off about five minutes ago. Busted out the flashlight thinking I would find a snail or something in the wet side, but saw nothing. Turned off the power long enough to get it reattached and it's fine now. No strange noises, nothing was moved around, absolutely no idea why it just randomly decided to fall off tonight.

Yes. Either a snail got in it or its internally dirty.
Take the wet side completely apart. Behind the blade is a flat round plate and gunk builds up behind there. It binds the wet side and will cause the pump to shudder off. It's got three alignment pins on it. I always find a white yuk coating there.
give it all a vinegar soak and rinse it off in hot water....
While it's out scrape the glass clean too!
 
Well, after about a week and a half of wiring, fiddling round, learning the Apex etc, I'm about 90% done. All the equipment is installed. I just need to hoof up the ATO to the breakout box, and get an RF module for my MP10QD. After that the bulk of the work is done. I'll be eying up mu SPS. I added some frogspawns, a hammer and 2 snowflake clowns earlier in the week. All the parameters are perfecto! Only complaint I'm having is that I can't seem to get the skimmer to get that nasty oily film off the top of my water. I have skimmate daily, and I'm working with it for consistency. It's a Tunze 9004. I turned up and moved up the MP10 to get to get more surface agitation, and I do have the spin streams. The water is flowing over the back of the tank, and I have the skimmer in the first chamber (all the way to the right). Any help would be appreciated. I'm, running 4oz of carbon in my Mini Max so the water is crystal clear, it's just the surface I can't seem to get clear. Thanks in advance.

Did you soak all the new hardware in white vinegar prior to use? Skimmer, pumps etc? Usually what you are describing is what happens when introducing a new part that has been handled a lot. Human skin oils etc. Always wash your hands before diving in. Don't use soap or if you do, rinse and rinse and rinse.

If u turn off circ, does the film remain? If so, use your wc syphon to manually remove it. Or skim very wet for a couple of days,
 
I started a wet skim last night, this morning it looks beautiful! I'm gonna let it wet skim a couple days, then back it down to a dry dark skimmate which I much prefer
 
I'm interested if you guys/gals could give me a list of your livestock in your tank. No clean up crew or corals. Just fish, inverts, clams etc. Again this is the smallest tank I've ever had so I want to make sure not to overload, but I do want some livestock. I don't mind (and am religious about) weekly water changes, sometimes 2. So I can go a little heavy on the bio-load. Right now I have two snowflake clowns.
 
I'm interested if you guys/gals could give me a list of your livestock in your tank. No clean up crew or corals. Just fish, inverts, clams etc. Again this is the smallest tank I've ever had so I want to make sure not to overload, but I do want some livestock. I don't mind (and am religious about) weekly water changes, sometimes 2. So I can go a little heavy on the bio-load. Right now I have two snowflake clowns.

I have a couple OC clowns. And a maxima clam. And a very small yellow tang.
The tang should not be in this tank though. I got him knowing my upgrade was in a very short while. A pair of peppermint shrimp, and a harlequin shrimp.
There my be a few hermits creeping around too..

I also had a sailfin blennie, and a diamond watchman goby. Not at the same time though and they are both gone... :(
 
Well, after about a week and a half of wiring, fiddling round, learning the Apex etc, I'm about 90% done. All the equipment is installed. I just need to hoof up the ATO to the breakout box, and get an RF module for my MP10QD. After that the bulk of the work is done. I'll be eying up mu SPS. I added some frogspawns, a hammer and 2 snowflake clowns earlier in the week. All the parameters are perfecto! Only complaint I'm having is that I can't seem to get the skimmer to get that nasty oily film off the top of my water. I have skimmate daily, and I'm working with it for consistency. It's a Tunze 9004. I turned up and moved up the MP10 to get to get more surface agitation, and I do have the spin streams. The water is flowing over the back of the tank, and I have the skimmer in the first chamber (all the way to the right). Any help would be appreciated. I'm, running 4oz of carbon in my Mini Max so the water is crystal clear, it's just the surface I can't seem to get clear. Thanks in advance.

I run the 9004 in the 1st chamber to the left and it works perfectly. I have no film - never had it. The skimmer is all the way up against the lip in the chamber if that helps. Water flows perfectly into it from the overflow. I'm still running a media basket in the chamber on the right (with a filter block and chemipure blue). I am testing one spinstream right now but the results with the stock returns was fine as well. Spin stream does a nice job aggitating the surface.

Are you using the stock pump? How high is your water level? Mine is just about 2" from the top of the glass. The reason I ask is I recently tested an Eheim pump and it was pushing less water. The level in main tank dropped a bit. I will be switching to the Sicce pump in the next few days thanks to Reduck who traded me for my Eheim.
 
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