Owners Thread: Innovative Marine Fusion 40

I do not have a tds meter. Is this a good one to buy? http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TD...d=1430008009&sr=8-1&keywords=tds+tester+meter I have 2 clown fish and 1 damsel. I feed every 2 days and not too much. I don't think feeding is the issue. I do have a lot of coral. I have mostly softies. My son broke down his tank and gave me what he had. I have had this algae issue before I added what my son gave me. It dosen't seem to harm the corals. They all look healthy.

It doesn't happen overnight.

I would suggest trying Phosban in your reactor if you have one, Start with about a cup. This is the tough part. change it every three days.religiously. Even if your phosphate test says zero, every three days it must be changed. Continue using the cpe and purigen. Continue feeding light. Skim wet, to the point of emptying the cup each day. Make sure you have good circulation. Do your water changes every 2 weeks. It will subside. It takes time. When you think it's gone, cut the Phosban down to 1/2 cup. Run that for a week. If it stays away, you have it beat. If it comes back, go back to a full cup.

Also make sure your nitrates are well below 0.20.

The algae eats the phosphates before you can test for it. You'll read zero even if it's .20 or 20!

If you recall I was having a similar issue with mine. I just, last week, stopped using Phosban. I have very little gha left. Bed is clean. Tank is actually too clean. I started feeding the corals twice a week just to dirty it up a little.
 
I have officially lost my backyard corner to my two year old daughter today....ordered a playground set. I told her that if she tries to take my grilling space, I putting her up for adoption :)

I returned my last clown to the lfs..working on trying to get a snowflake pair. One lfs has a nice pair that an employee had in their tank for a year. Has even a little blue in them..want 250 for them... trying to work them down to 250 with the rbta (guess i will get another one) that is hosting them.

Woohoo....playground...I'll be over when it's built! Nice daddy. I wouldn't give up my grill/bbq space either. Thems fighting words.

Snowflakes are nice. They get a bit territorial. Might be the last fish you get to add,,,I'd think about it....unless you already ordered that 120?
 
I need some help. I know this could go in the chemistry forum, but you all have been so helpful before. I am still battling an algae issue. my water is testing fine, both by my tests and LFS. I am using RO Di water and using coral pro salt. I have tried everything. Right now I am running Chemipure blue, phosban and charcoal. I have tried ROWAphos, phosban, Acurel phosphate removing media, Chemipure elite, chemipure blue, two little fishies hydrocarbon and purigen in all different combinations. My tank is 1 year old. This algae looks like red/brown on the sand. It is not slimy or stringy.
It is also on the back wall. I can take a tooth brush and take it off the back wall with little effert. It does not grow on my corals or rock. My corals are doing great through all of this. I could use any other suggestions on what to do to help get rid of this.


I'm sorry, I see you tried Phosban. But how much and how often did you change it? That's the important part. About a cup for our tank is right. Evey three days will deplete excess phosphates. In about 3-5 weeks. It's either leeching from your sand, rocks, or rodi is failing. It's not easy but it can be done...
 
Reduck I used the Phosban in a bag, not a reactor. I did not change it as often as every 3 days, more like every 3 months! I am going to check my source water as suggested. What reactor are you using? Is it easy o set up? Which chamber do you have it in? I am skimming and emptying the cup every 2-3 days. How do I get more of a wet skim? Thanks!!
 
What is on the other long wall by the poker table? Might work better over on that wall. Tank by stairs is no good. And since you are working with a projector that is not good either.
This is what comes after playground sets, I have two teenage boys.
4250008c0552821e9cd46e72e6f3f8b9.jpg
 
Trying to find the best flow in my tank. Prior, I had the two MO10's directly across from one another, though at different heights. Fed the tank and realized, duh, the back corals don't have much flow. So just tonight I went ahead and moved the left MP10 higher in the tank, skimming the top of the corals high on the rocks, where as j moved the one on the right lower, getting the whole front of the tank. Hope this works out good and doesn't slam my corals.
Here's a picture of their placement.
 
Well. Decided to put off food for this month and I ended up getting the laser cutter/engraver too... I don't think there's anything left in my house I havent cut or engraved yet..

Going to be using my old Biocube for a Quarantine tank and wanted the media basket for it. Rather than buy it I decided I would try to make one.. This ought to be fun.
 
Well. Decided to put off food for this month and I ended up getting the laser cutter/engraver too... I don't think there's anything left in my house I havent cut or engraved yet..

Going to be using my old Biocube for a Quarantine tank and wanted the media basket for it. Rather than buy it I decided I would try to make one.. This ought to be fun.

Sweet man! How're you planning on making the basket? 2 or 3 chamber?
 
Sweet man! How're you planning on making the basket? 2 or 3 chamber?

Probably fairly similarly to InTank's. But I could probably make it for about $6 as opposed to $50.

I'm not saying I don't love InTank's baskets, they're awesome. I'm just saying I could make my own for a heck of a lot cheaper.
 
Reduck I used the Phosban in a bag, not a reactor. I did not change it as often as every 3 days, more like every 3 months! I am going to check my source water as suggested. What reactor are you using? Is it easy o set up? Which chamber do you have it in? I am skimming and emptying the cup every 2-3 days. How do I get more of a wet skim? Thanks!!

Bagged Phosban is expensive and not being used to it's full potential for this issue.

Try and find a used innovative marine mid size reactor. I saw a few on the classifieds recently. it would go in either second chamber. Aquarium care center stocks them I think...

Yea, if you have normal levels of phosphate, maybe once a month is ok.but in our cases, we have ultra high levels. Any medium would exhaust in days, not months. That's where I was going wrong too. Especially if it's bound to your live rock. It gets to be a pain changing it so often but it really only take 5 minutes to dump the old, fill with new and rinse. Keep the flow low to give the water dwell time with the Phosban. It does not need to tumble like gfo.

So try to get a reactor, and order a tub of Phosban from Amazon. It's fairly cheap and the tub will get you through this, and last for another year.

Starting point is a cup of Phosban. Don't back down on volume or changes until you see it clearing up.

Set your skimmer cup lower and the air valve open most of the way and you'll skim more wet. This will help remove the bound nitrates and phosphates.
Continue all normal maintenence. When you do your water changes, don't be discouraged if it looks like it gets worse for a day or two. Fresh sw will spike the bloom, until the reactor and skimmer catches up.

Also lets not forget nitrates. The purigen will help but if you have nitrates the reading is probably off too. Due to algea consuming it, the measurement is inaccurate. There are many schools of thought on how to lower nitrates. The easiest is massive wc. Like 80%. Changing 10g EVERY day will also work just slower. To keep them under control, chaeto works, but you have to start a fuge. There is also purigen and other nitrate absorbing media you could use. Again the problem is volume and capacity. 100ml bag of purigen isn't going to drop nitrates .3 to .2 without depleting quickly. Growing chaeto isn't difficult if you can set up a fuge. Since you can't get to the back of the tank, intank makes a small submersible led. I wouldn't think about starting a fuge until the phos and nitrates are in control. I tried it, my chaeto all died in a week. It needs somewhat decent water parameters to start growing, then it will eat your nitrates. I went the massive water change route. Did it twice.
It will lower your nitrates by 75% if you do 3/4 of the tank volume.
It will not help the phosphate issue though...

And as everyone said, get a Tds meter so you KNOW it's not your rodi. I think you bought your rodi not long ago and it's probably ok now, but being in NJ, your incoming water could be very high in Tds and its clogging the first few stages. It's not likely but the only way you'll be sure is to measure it.

All of this will not be without cost, both financially and possibly coral health. In the long run, corals will bounce back happier than ever. Financially, Phosban in a tub I think is about $45. A reactor new is about $100. Water, well depending on how you buy it, or make it, is cheap enough.

Also for your regime, you might want to change out the CPE more frequently. That could be exhausting prematurely too. Maybe once a month. Same with the purgen. (once you have the nitrates down)

Finally, cuc are great. BUT, they die. Once a week pick up your snails. Hold them to a light and see if anyone is home. Empty shells mean death or they've been eaten.get them out as soon as you find them, or they will add to your problems.
Replenish them as often as you need to. You don't need to buy a whole cuc package. Get 10-15 at a time. ultimate sells them as does acc and Aqua Oceans.

It sounds like a lot, but it really isn't...
Now get to work. You will win this battle.
And remember, I'm not far if you need help!
 
Trying to find the best flow in my tank. Prior, I had the two MO10's directly across from one another, though at different heights. Fed the tank and realized, duh, the back corals don't have much flow. So just tonight I went ahead and moved the left MP10 higher in the tank, skimming the top of the corals high on the rocks, where as j moved the one on the right lower, getting the whole front of the tank. Hope this works out good and doesn't slam my corals.
Here's a picture of their placement.

You are just about opposite of what I did. But it should work. Just watch your flow rates. The lower pump will need to run at a fairly low speed or you'll kick up a sand storm or get the dreaded divot from the suction...
I came home last night to the sound of pump rattle. A snail decided to crawl into the left mp and seized it. Didn't break but fell off into one of my scolys. It was ****ed but is ok. Snail..well he became food for the shrimp...
Glad I have the dry side mounted to the tank....it did its job...
 
Well. Decided to put off food for this month and I ended up getting the laser cutter/engraver too... I don't think there's anything left in my house I havent cut or engraved yet..

Going to be using my old Biocube for a Quarantine tank and wanted the media basket for it. Rather than buy it I decided I would try to make one.. This ought to be fun.


Cool! Food is over rated. Tools, never over rated. Always fun!
 
I have officially lost my backyard corner to my two year old daughter today....ordered a playground set. I told her that if she tries to take my grilling space, I putting her up for adoption :)
.

My pride and joy..old pics...nobody is taking my grill or bbq..not without a fight..

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864a1461847a709c784eae3805e4cd9e_zpssc3v6mgk.jpg
 
Nice! I want to work on getting a smoker this year. Part of me wants to do it, the other part reminds me I have a two year old daughter.

I love grilling. It is my therapy. Got the skydrop all set up next to the nest. Ready to go!
 
Nice! I want to work on getting a smoker this year. Part of me wants to do it, the other part reminds me I have a two year old daughter.

I love grilling. It is my therapy. Got the skydrop all set up next to the nest. Ready to go!

Don't ask me what smoker to get or you'll be sorry you asked. I considered competing for a while. We are very loyal to our pit builders. Mine came from David Klose. He builds insanely great pits. That thing weighs close to 800lbs. 1/2 thick steel. $$$ and you get what you pay for.

The Viking otoh was me telling my wife that since she had a Viking stove in the house, I should have one outside. 100,000 btu. Close to 1k lbs of stainless steel...we cook all year round on it...

BBQ is my therapy. That and mowing the lawn...grilling is just cooking outside...
We also have a weber kettle...one can never have enough variety in food prep!

Never made it out to lowes yesterday. House is being power washed. Maybe today if I can get the car out before the trucks pull in...busy making rodi before they suck up all the water pressure!
 
Bagged Phosban is expensive and not being used to it's full potential for this issue.

Try and find a used innovative marine mid size reactor. I saw a few on the classifieds recently. it would go in either second chamber. Aquarium care center stocks them I think...

Yea, if you have normal levels of phosphate, maybe once a month is ok.but in our cases, we have ultra high levels. Any medium would exhaust in days, not months. That's where I was going wrong too. Especially if it's bound to your live rock. It gets to be a pain changing it so often but it really only take 5 minutes to dump the old, fill with new and rinse. Keep the flow low to give the water dwell time with the Phosban. It does not need to tumble like gfo.

So try to get a reactor, and order a tub of Phosban from Amazon. It's fairly cheap and the tub will get you through this, and last for another year.

Starting point is a cup of Phosban. Don't back down on volume or changes until you see it clearing up.

Set your skimmer cup lower and the air valve open most of the way and you'll skim more wet. This will help remove the bound nitrates and phosphates.
Continue all normal maintenence. When you do your water changes, don't be discouraged if it looks like it gets worse for a day or two. Fresh sw will spike the bloom, until the reactor and skimmer catches up.

Also lets not forget nitrates. The purigen will help but if you have nitrates the reading is probably off too. Due to algea consuming it, the measurement is inaccurate. There are many schools of thought on how to lower nitrates. The easiest is massive wc. Like 80%. Changing 10g EVERY day will also work just slower. To keep them under control, chaeto works, but you have to start a fuge. There is also purigen and other nitrate absorbing media you could use. Again the problem is volume and capacity. 100ml bag of purigen isn't going to drop nitrates .3 to .2 without depleting quickly. Growing chaeto isn't difficult if you can set up a fuge. Since you can't get to the back of the tank, intank makes a small submersible led. I wouldn't think about starting a fuge until the phos and nitrates are in control. I tried it, my chaeto all died in a week. It needs somewhat decent water parameters to start growing, then it will eat your nitrates. I went the massive water change route. Did it twice.
It will lower your nitrates by 75% if you do 3/4 of the tank volume.
It will not help the phosphate issue though...

And as everyone said, get a Tds meter so you KNOW it's not your rodi. I think you bought your rodi not long ago and it's probably ok now, but being in NJ, your incoming water could be very high in Tds and its clogging the first few stages. It's not likely but the only way you'll be sure is to measure it.

All of this will not be without cost, both financially and possibly coral health. In the long run, corals will bounce back happier than ever. Financially, Phosban in a tub I think is about $45. A reactor new is about $100. Water, well depending on how you buy it, or make it, is cheap enough.

Also for your regime, you might want to change out the CPE more frequently. That could be exhausting prematurely too. Maybe once a month. Same with the purgen. (once you have the nitrates down)

Finally, cuc are great. BUT, they die. Once a week pick up your snails. Hold them to a light and see if anyone is home. Empty shells mean death or they've been eaten.get them out as soon as you find them, or they will add to your problems.
Replenish them as often as you need to. You don't need to buy a whole cuc package. Get 10-15 at a time. ultimate sells them as does acc and Aqua Oceans.

It sounds like a lot, but it really isn't...
Now get to work. You will win this battle.
And remember, I'm not far if you need help!
 
Do you have a tds measuring system? You could run cheato, but we want to know the cause of it. How many fish and coral how much do you feed? Your test could test "fine" the algae is feeding off of the nutrients.

1. Tds on rodi water?
2. Fish/coral?
3. Feeding?


I borrowed my son's TDS meter and tested the water I am making salt with. It is testing 007. I buy my rodi water from a lfs.

Reduck I am looking into buying an IM media reactor. I found one in the classifieds.
 
I borrowed my son's TDS meter and tested the water I am making salt with. It is testing 007. I buy my rodi water from a lfs.

Reduck I am looking into buying an IM media reactor. I found one in the classifieds.

.007 Tds isn't bad. 000 is better but I don't believe that's your problem. Get the reactor going as I mentioned before and let the Phosban do its job. It'll work. Just don't panic. It will get better.

Don't forget while you are waiting on the reactor to attack the nitrates! Do the big water change. Test for nitrates a day later. Then a week later do another big water change. Then again, test nitrates the next day.

Don't know what test kit you are using for nitrates but my new favorite is the Red Sea pro nitrate kit. Very straightforward and very accurate.
 
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