Ozone use
- Thread starter ayrton
- Start date
This thread is amazing!
I just have one quick question... I live near the ocean and i will opt to use nsw (natural sea water) to fill my tank and use it for my water change. But my worries is that i cannot control pathogens and parasites (like ich...) to enter into my system. I'm planning to use ozone (36 watts) to run over my nsw for a week... but after reading this thread im contemplating if im going to use UV or ozone.
My question are can i use ozone without orp meter and let it run for certain amount of time and after awhile ill let the nsw rest for a week and assume that any excess ozone will be aired out into the environment? and is it safe to assume that any excess ozone in the water column will be exhaust in the environment if i let it rest for quite some time....
Thank you very much!
-christian
I just have one quick question... I live near the ocean and i will opt to use nsw (natural sea water) to fill my tank and use it for my water change. But my worries is that i cannot control pathogens and parasites (like ich...) to enter into my system. I'm planning to use ozone (36 watts) to run over my nsw for a week... but after reading this thread im contemplating if im going to use UV or ozone.
My question are can i use ozone without orp meter and let it run for certain amount of time and after awhile ill let the nsw rest for a week and assume that any excess ozone will be aired out into the environment? and is it safe to assume that any excess ozone in the water column will be exhaust in the environment if i let it rest for quite some time....
Thank you very much!
-christian
No, I do not think that you can assume that all ozone produced oxidants will disappear just becuase it is left for a week. Running enough GAC on the system may help solve that problem, however. 
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I would use a three stage filter for the seawater. First a 1 micron sediment, then a carbon filter, and finally a UV sterilzer. This can all be run on a single slow pass to assure a high zap rate (kill ratio). Mulitiple passes is even better.
Alternatively you could superchlorinate with sodium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite. Bring the free chlorine level to 50 mg. You only need two hours of exposure to kill everything in the water, but a longer period may assure a more thorough job of getting everything trapped in tight spaces etc. After you dechlorinate with sodium thiosulphite, test and assure a zero free chlorine reading, you should run this water through a carbon filter before it goes to the tank to remove Trihalomethanes (THMs) created by dead organic matter. I believe these (THMs) are the agents Randy is speaking of above, as they are a byproduct of a variety of sterilization methods. You can buy the chlorine and test kits at a pool supply shop.
Hydrogen peroxide is a more friendly chemical method of sterilizing seawater as it leaves only water and oxygen as residual chemicals. You would still need carbon to remove THMs, so it won't be much easier than ozonation.
Tony Romano
New member
Thanks for that informative answers Randy and Wilson... great help... ill try to calculate which path will yield lesser cost... thanks again...
Please post your findings, this is interesting stuff. I live close to Gulf...
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Tony Romano
New member
I'm sure BP would like the findings too
Took me a second to get that.......
My mind was thinking NP pellets..
Tony Romano
New member
henrystyle
Member
So the air going into the skimmer has to be carbon filtered and the water coming out of the skimmer has to be carbon filtered as well, correct?
What will happen if it is not filtered on either end?
You will smell ozone in the air, which may not be an issue but can also be an issue if it is to much. GAC/Carbon removes ozone form the air. In the tank there will be the accumulation of hypobromous acid, due to the oxidation of the bromide ion. The GAC/Carbon will reduce the hypobromous acid back to what it was, bromide. Hypobromous acid is the same thing as Chlorine bleach only it is Bromine bleach and does the same thing. So, in short, you are adding blench to you tank.
henrystyle
Member
ok, thanks for the answer
sea of cortez
New member
So what is ozone safe tubing
Is silicon tubing safe??
I think I read in here that ozone would not effect the silicone seal on the glass
Is silicon tubing safe??
I think I read in here that ozone would not effect the silicone seal on the glass
apt220
Member
Silicone tubing is excellent for ozone. As for the silicone seals, no ozone should be allowed to get back into the main display, so it is a moot point.
Here is part II of Randy's ozone article that lists the different materials and their compatibility with ozone.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php
Here is part II of Randy's ozone article that lists the different materials and their compatibility with ozone.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php
sea of cortez
New member
I was concerned about ozone fumes that may collect in the sump area under the tank affecting the silicone
jrpark22000
New member
Pressurized Ozone reactors
Pressurized Ozone reactors
Reviving an old and very informative thread with Pressurized ozone reactors.
The incoming water supply, air and ozone enter the reactor all under pressure, continue on to the carbon reactor under pressure, then the effluent tube discharges air and effluent.
The solution to scrub the air and water using the same carbon reactor is to plumb the carbon reactor in reverse(out to in, in to out.) This will cause the reactor to fill with air. The effluent then bubbles out and thru scrubbing both the air and water of excess ozone.
I have seen systems using this solution that use the large geo type media reactors and it works well, but I would like to use a cartridge style carbon reactor from BRS for example. I just like the convince of pulling and changing a cartridge of carbon vs having to remove the reactor to clean and refill.
Has anyone tried this? Will a canister style carbon reactor work in a similar fashion to fill with gas? I think it would but have some doubts.
Pressurized Ozone reactors
Reviving an old and very informative thread with Pressurized ozone reactors.
The incoming water supply, air and ozone enter the reactor all under pressure, continue on to the carbon reactor under pressure, then the effluent tube discharges air and effluent.
The solution to scrub the air and water using the same carbon reactor is to plumb the carbon reactor in reverse(out to in, in to out.) This will cause the reactor to fill with air. The effluent then bubbles out and thru scrubbing both the air and water of excess ozone.
I have seen systems using this solution that use the large geo type media reactors and it works well, but I would like to use a cartridge style carbon reactor from BRS for example. I just like the convince of pulling and changing a cartridge of carbon vs having to remove the reactor to clean and refill.
Has anyone tried this? Will a canister style carbon reactor work in a similar fashion to fill with gas? I think it would but have some doubts.
The solution to scrub the air and water using the same carbon reactor
You could do that see here
http://www.marinetechnical.com/page9.html
Dispense with the Carbon filter CAF-12 and run the air line line to SR-7. Your only issue with any set up like this is the added back-pressure from the air, which will have an effect on the water level in the reactor so one would need to bump up the PSI of the Ozone reactor to compensate for it.
I'm lost in your statement work in a similar fashion to fill with gas? If it is filled with gas were is the water. Even if said GAC reactor is mostly air there is still going to be increased internal gas pressure, as you added air pressure to it, where there is usually none on a GAC reactor, which still affects the ozone reactor water level and output, which will be worse than just mixing air and water as I stated. Then there is maybe a second issue. Will said gas cause the line to become air bound, where there may be zero water flow. This means one would need to put in a air-bleed-line in the GAC reactor to remove excessive pressure build up from air/gas. You are just better off using 2 cartridge style carbon reactors, one air and one for water.
I have seen systems using this solution that use the large geo type media reactors and it works well
Where got a link to how they work ? You seem to be taking about a degassing tower, where said gas is vented outside. That is a whole different beast.
You could do that see here
http://www.marinetechnical.com/page9.html
Dispense with the Carbon filter CAF-12 and run the air line line to SR-7. Your only issue with any set up like this is the added back-pressure from the air, which will have an effect on the water level in the reactor so one would need to bump up the PSI of the Ozone reactor to compensate for it.
I'm lost in your statement work in a similar fashion to fill with gas? If it is filled with gas were is the water. Even if said GAC reactor is mostly air there is still going to be increased internal gas pressure, as you added air pressure to it, where there is usually none on a GAC reactor, which still affects the ozone reactor water level and output, which will be worse than just mixing air and water as I stated. Then there is maybe a second issue. Will said gas cause the line to become air bound, where there may be zero water flow. This means one would need to put in a air-bleed-line in the GAC reactor to remove excessive pressure build up from air/gas. You are just better off using 2 cartridge style carbon reactors, one air and one for water.
I have seen systems using this solution that use the large geo type media reactors and it works well
Where got a link to how they work ? You seem to be taking about a degassing tower, where said gas is vented outside. That is a whole different beast.
