Panic AND FRUSTRATION !!!

UH_OH_5_OH

New member
Help me out here people !!!!


How do I get rid of this stuff ?????


I have a green algae problem AND a red Cyanobacteria problem !!!

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and here's the algae growing on the heater as well !!! What the heck do I do.....?


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more, larger water changes, less feeding, run carbon and phosban, remove all of it that you can, repeat removal..

tell us what all your perameters are
 
You press 1 for english because this country is composed of all races. not just one. Ever wonder what the American Indian - The only true Americans have to say about English? All races have gone to war for this - OUR COUNTRY - I for one served in Vietnam and never ran to hide in Canada. I am an EX Marine that served the front lines.
 
Okay, now that I vented, here is what I would do my brother...
Not sure how long you run your lights but I would cut back for a while until you get this under contraol. Also, cut back on some of the feeding. you may be overfeeding your fish. Also, I would rcommend that you invest ina reverse flow reactor and use media such as RowaPhos to get phosphates under control and finally, water change, water change, water change. Do this religiously and you will avoid a lot of frustration and headaches.
 
Okay.....to address each recommendation...I really should have mentioned what corrections I have attempted already !


I have been running a phosban reactor for about 6 months now and aboooooout....2 weeks ago replaced ALL of the media with one large and one small tub of reactor media !

As per my tank description below vvvvvvvv I am running a ASM G2 PS and it was recently cleaned thoroughly with vinegar by running for a full 24 hours with straight white vinegar in a huge tub.

I cut back my feeding to once a day and only about a half teaspoon of mixed frozen foods.

My parameters are SG 1.026, all others are 0 with KH of 4 and a CA of 269....(that SOOOOO needs to come up !)

I plan on doing a 40 gallon water change every week for the next 4 weeks.......advisable or not?
 
Hey UH_OH, just a couple quick questions. First I didn't see a mention of a RO/DI for your water supply, and if you do use one have you checked your TDS readings. Second is your fuge, Do you get good algae growth, what is the lighting scedule compaired to the main tank?
And to saabore, No I shouldn't have to press 1 for English. I am Native American and also served in Vietnam. If you want to live here, either learn the language or you should be the one that has to press a button to get the language you want!
 
up your flow to get rid of the cyno and buy a molly to eat the hair algae.

cyno cannot handle high flow as the extra oxygen kills it.
 
Misled...........I do use an RO system but I'm afraid to admit that I don't think the other cartridge is a DI cartridge !!!! How do I check ?

How many Mollys will I need to buy for a 135 and is there a specific kind?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9681351#post9681351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by UH_OH_5_OH
Misled...........I do use an RO system but I'm afraid to admit that I don't think the other cartridge is a DI cartridge !!!! How do I check ?

How many Mollys will I need to buy for a 135 and is there a specific kind?

1 can clean up incredible amounts of algae there are some great threads on here and even some videos.

think the sailfin was the type used.

just bring the salinity up very very slowly over a good few hours.
 
Hey UH_OH, Sorry it took so long to get back to you, but you know that work thing. About the sailfins, yes they eat like crazy, and I would drip acclimate him over night. Your not only raising the sg but most likely the ph too. But even once the algae is gone, the underlying problem still exists. Also if you haven't got to the LFS yet you can get Margarita snails that will take care of the cyno. They are fairly large and 3 or 4 would take care of it in a few days. After it's gone I would remove them because they are large and tend to knock things over and they also like cooler water temps. Now for whats causing the algae to grow, is phosphates. They may not show up in tests because it becomes locked up in the algaes that are growing. That's why IMO siphoning out as much as possible helps alot. If a fish or snail eats it, it comes back as waste. I think a 40 gpw water change would be a bit much. At most maybe 20-25 gpw.
Here's a pic of my DI unit. It should be the last cartridge type filter, and the should come after the RO membrain.
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The DI is the cartrige on the right.
Also if you don't have a TDS meter to check your RO/DI unit you should get one. Here's a pic of mine, got it off ebay for 25 bucs.

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Hope this helps!
 
Shouldn't be an option to choose number 1 for english AND I shouldn't have to wait any longer for the recording to repeat everything in those other languages that shouldn't even be on there cause everyone should know ENGLISH in the first place if they are going to live in the good 'ol US of #$%^%$$ A. I am thru.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9675878#post9675878 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saabore
You press 1 for english because this country is composed of all races. not just one. Ever wonder what the American Indian - The only true Americans have to say about English? All races have gone to war for this - OUR COUNTRY - I for one served in Vietnam and never ran to hide in Canada. I am an EX Marine that served the front lines.

Someone has issues lol. Race and nationality are two different things. Congrats on being a marine :) I for one am not impressed that you wear that extreme honor like a badge. Boasting does not make you an expert.

Oh, and more flow is the key for the cyno problem :)

Jeff
 
Oh-oh, your pristine sand and rock is still there under the gunk: when cyano goes away it goes in a hurry and leaves things as clean as if it had never been there. Hair algae and green film---those are a phosphate problem and there are two good ways to fight it---one being a refugium, which sops up the nutrients that would feed that stuff, and the other being Phosban, that soaks up phosphate chemically. Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt. THere are some quick cures for cyano, like Chemiclean, but try everything else first: they're pretty rough on a tank, particularly a new tank, because they don't discriminate among bacteria they kill: [cyano is a bacterium]; they take out your good bacteria you cycled your tank to cultivate along with the bad stuff, so try the other methods first.
 
brown crud?

brown crud?

Rats! Just flip the rocks over and keep your water perameters good, feed less, lights off after 8 hours and it will go away. After a month or so you can flip the rocks back over if you want to.

the green algea get a couple of snails that hang around on the glass. Watch then at the store before you buy them and make sure they stay on the glass. If you've got it on there rocks watch for the kind that crawl on the rocks too. Hermit crabs(blue knees) will help. There are some nice little florida crabs that'll do wonders on algea but after it's gone they will march around the perimeter looking for algea if you don't keep their supply up. They are cool though. I'll find a picture.
 
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crabs

crabs

Phimochirus holthuisi or Clibanarius sp

http://users.skynet.be/ThomasD/article/hermit.htm

It is in French, but it is clearly an excellent view of crab selections.

I'm not sure which of the two it is, probably the first, but it does not get very large and I believe it comes from Florida. I had it in my reef and the worst it did was trample everything. If you have everything securely attached, you will soon know it with this guy. He is sweet and eats all the undesirable (at least the green kind)algea.

I don't have him anymore because he pole vaulted up the side of the tank. He is very strong so don't pile rocks up the side for him to launch himself out of your tank or he will use them to leave.
 
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