PAR Readings for 6x54 Tek T-5 fixture vs Iwasaki 15k 175 MH Bulb

[raynist]

I posted this in the lighting forum, but it may be relevant here:

These are on an unshielded Tek light with the following bulb combo from front to back:

UV Lighting Super Actinic
D&D Blue Plus
D&D Aqua Blue
D&D Aqua Blue
D&D Aqua Blue
UV Lighting Super Actinic

These lights are about on average 6 months old.

The Iwasaki is housed in a Lumenarc 2 fixture using an Icecap 175w electronic Ballast and the bulb is about 2 months old.

I took measurements at several points in the tank and on the rocks with the t-5 lights and the Iwasaki 15k 175w light mounted on my 75g SPS tank. Here are the results based on my Apogee Quantum meter calibrated for electric lights:

The Tek lights are 4 inches from the water level (lowest it can be with mounting legs), the Iwasaki is 8 inches

Directly under lights at surface, above water

Tek - 650
Iwasaki - 1730

Directly under lights, just under water level

Tek - 410
Iwasaki - 1120

Halfway down tank on rocks

Tek - 170
Iwasaki - 450

Bottom of tank - Barebottom

Tek - 125
Iwasaki - 310

I think the bottom of the tank measurement is pretty much in line with what Grim tested, I think his was around 135 or so, but I have no sand in my tank so I am probably down 2 inches or so further than his test was.

Also notice that the shield on the Tek light reduced the light by about 20 percent based on my readings from last night.


---Ray

 

[raynist]

I just did another test using a regular piece of glass to cover the MH light. At the surface, just above the water, the reading was 1780 without glass and 1680 with glass. A difference of 6%.

--ray

 

[zapata41]

nuff said, yet people will still try and argue which puts out more light. i saw similar numbers with my 400w setup, well compared to a t5 setup that is, only the 400w 10k xm was pulling over 2200 at 8" under the bulb.

no wonder why my corals grow better with the 400's

Tim

 

[gcarroll]

Re: PAR Readings for 6x54 Tek T-5 fixture vs Iwasaki 15k 175 MH Bulb

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8106805#post8106805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raynist
I think the bottom of the tank measurement is pretty much in line with what Grim tested, I think his was around 135 or so, but I have no sand in my tank so I am probably down 2 inches or so further than his test was.

Great Job Ray! The difference is that you compared a good T5 system and a good metal halide system. You did not copare a MH system that was one of the worst ever tested. (BTW: PFO pulled the same shenanigans when they compared their solaris LED system to MH.

 

[old salty]

Wow, does this mean that if I remove the acrylic shields, I can get 20% more par into the tank?

 

[NuclearReefs]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8108144#post8108144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by old salty
Wow, does this mean that if I remove the acrylic shields, I can get 20% more par into the tank?

safe with SE bulbs,, NOT with DE ........Dont even try it . Toast city !

 

[Mchava]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8108251#post8108251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NuclearReefs
safe with SE bulbs,, NOT with DE ........Dont even try it . Toast city !

I think he was reffering to the T5 setup. Cuase a mh setup would toast the acrylic reallly fast

 

[Mchava]

Re: PAR Readings for 6x54 Tek T-5 fixture vs Iwasaki 15k 175 MH Bulb

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8106805#post8106805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raynist


The Tek lights are 4 inches from the water level (lowest it can be with mounting legs), the Iwasaki is 8 inches

Directly under lights at surface, above water

Tek - 650
Iwasaki - 1730

Directly under lights, just under water level

Tek - 410
Iwasaki - 1120

Halfway down tank on rocks

Tek - 170
Iwasaki - 450

Bottom of tank - Barebottom

Tek - 125
Iwasaki - 310

I think the bottom of the tank measurement is pretty much in line with what Grim tested, I think his was around 135 or so, but I have no sand in my tank so I am probably down 2 inches or so further than his test was.


---Ray

Thats about what I got from my t5 set up and It was 3 AB and 3B+. But I am more surpriced at what the Iwasaki is doing at the bottom of the tank. I meen I was only able to get about 250-275 with the 14k phoenix. Do you know if they make the Iwasaki's in a 250DE set up yet. Would be nice to see what they put out.

 

[DrBDC]

The 175w Iwasaki 15,000K's are a par making machine. They have more than many 250 watt bulbs. I hear they will release 250 watt versions about Christmas time and the 400 watt versions in the spring.

 

[beapeams]

I see that Iwasaki has a 50,000K halide. What would be the benifit of 50,000K for SPS and the aquarium?

 

[dvanacker]

Thats incredible...has sanjay run tests on the IWASAKI.??

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8108990#post8108990 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dvanacker
Thats incredible...has sanjay run tests on the IWASAKI.??

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/12/review/view

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8108144#post8108144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by old salty
Wow, does this mean that if I remove the acrylic shields, I can get 20% more par into the tank?

That was on the Tek light, and the shield was very dirty.

I put a random piece of glass over the Iwasaki and it dropped output by 6%.

--Ray

 

[DrBDC]

You don't need to have glass over the mogul based bulbs, only the double ended. That is the UV shield. If you remove it from the de's your tank will be sorry but you won't be able to tell because your retina's will be burned and varying degree's of radiation poisioning.

 

[piercho]

has sanjay run tests on the IWASAKI.??

Yes. PAR and spectral info on Sanjay's Reef Lighting Info page. Try the bulb comparison application under Spectral Plots.

I see that Iwasaki has a 50,000K halide. What would be the benifit of 50,000K for SPS and the aquarium?

The 50000K bulb is the origonal EYE (Iwasaki) AQUA. EYE also makes a 20000K AQUA2, and the 15000K AQUA2/HOR. Info on bulb packages for each bulb is available from EYE Lighting. Right now the 15000K bulb is only available in a 175W SE package. All three bulbs put out much of their light near 450 nM (blue). For those 3 type bulbs at 175W or 150W, the 15000K AQUA2/HOR will be the bulb of most interest to SPS keepers due to its higher PAR, IMO.

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8109285#post8109285 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DrBDC
You don't need to have glass over the mogul based bulbs, only the double ended. That is the UV shield. If you remove it from the de's your tank will be sorry but you won't be able to tell because your retina's will be burned and varying degree's of radiation poisioning.

I don't use glass on this bulb, just wanted to test it out.

 

[old salty]

I was indeed referring to the TEK fixtures. I try to keep them rather clean, but I had no idea that I could get much more light if I removed the plastic. I may do this and bring the fixtures up another 1/4 inch to reduce the build up.

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8109523#post8109523 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by old salty
I was indeed referring to the TEK fixtures. I try to keep them rather clean, but I had no idea that I could get much more light if I removed the plastic. I may do this and bring the fixtures up another 1/4 inch to reduce the build up.

I did not test when the shield was cleaned. I will try to do that this weekend. Remember, the shield was pretty dirty.

I would keep the shield, the tek reflectors stain pretty easily.

--Ray

 

[old salty]

Thanks a bunch. I will eagerly await your results before doing this. I am kind of hesitant as the shields to get dirty within a week. I'm really not the type who would regularly clean bulbs and reflectors.

 

[ahchung]

If the shield is really dirty, it can reduce light intensity by 40% or more.