PAR Results HQI vs T5
- Thread starter PCIALF
- Start date
thriceanangel
New member
Seems more like MH users from all over are jumping on this thread to "prove" their worth... People are always trying to justify their investment...
PCIALF
Active member
Well thats where the dilemma is. I need something to yes keep fish in (egg crate/screen netting) but now also need to keep spray and water off the individual reflectors, I do not see how you could ever clean them to original finish. So the options are glass tops or lens cover for the light I have read that with the lens cover the t5's heated up so much that 40% of par was lost so for now I am running this way but I am going to get the lens cover and actually test it.
PCIALF
Active member
Correct and that is why I am only posting this with the data to show what really is the difference in par between the lights and the coverings. Now the only thing really debatable is whether par matters or not. Now I really think that would be a silly position to take but the numbers are the numbers.
Also this thread has a wealth of knowledge and I consider the expert advise there I am no expert, but take the time and read the hundreds of posts in this thread there is a lot to learn. Grim is very generous with his knowledge.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12155313#post12155313
johnnybravo234
New member
I just clean the relflectors every couple of weeks. There are only little dots of salt on on it. Id rather have the par and have to clean it than not. It is a pain though. 6-8" would probably be safe.
PCIALF
Active member
OK so here is the PAR data
Black = Corallife Pro Aqualight at 4" w/2 - 150whqi ushio 10k bulbs 4 months old w/ 2 96w PC 460's w/ eggcrate
Red = TEK 8 bulb T5 HO at 5" w/ glass tops with the following bulb config
Front
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
ATI Procolor
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Green = TEK 8 bulb T5 HO at 5" w/ eggcrate with the same bulb config
Now I will say I surprised myself when I was done I took the eggcrate off and the par was very similar FWIW
Black = Corallife Pro Aqualight at 4" w/2 - 150whqi ushio 10k bulbs 4 months old w/ 2 96w PC 460's w/ eggcrate
Red = TEK 8 bulb T5 HO at 5" w/ glass tops with the following bulb config
Front
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
ATI Procolor
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Green = TEK 8 bulb T5 HO at 5" w/ eggcrate with the same bulb config
Now I will say I surprised myself when I was done I took the eggcrate off and the par was very similar FWIW
KurtsReef
Premium Member
The glass must be clean, but still surprised its not blocking more light.
The reason I asked what size tank it is (width) is that a single 400w MH will give much higher readings. If the tank would require two 400w MH's then you would need to compare with two 250w MH.
It looks like it would be two 250w bulbs for comparison of PAR, which I have not tested the PAR under where I switched out to 250w bulbs.
Do you get the shimmer effect with T5's? That is one of the big reasons I wanted to switch to the MH...I know that the LED fixtures provide the effect but not familiar with the T5's at all.
The reason I asked what size tank it is (width) is that a single 400w MH will give much higher readings. If the tank would require two 400w MH's then you would need to compare with two 250w MH.
It looks like it would be two 250w bulbs for comparison of PAR, which I have not tested the PAR under where I switched out to 250w bulbs.
Do you get the shimmer effect with T5's? That is one of the big reasons I wanted to switch to the MH...I know that the LED fixtures provide the effect but not familiar with the T5's at all.
PCIALF
Active member
I was surprised as well about the blocking of the light and yes the glass is clean and I keep it pretty clean so I am sure that helps
I had no reason to go to 250watts although I contemplated it but everything was doing good and as Tom at TRS keep telling me when I contemplated 250's he would say I wouldn't everything looks great
As far as the shimmer which I am experimenting with right now. Yes there is none but if you install moonlights you get that back. I am experimenting with a couple different ones right now.
PCIALF
Active member
To be honest heat was the reason I didn't go to 250's and is the reason I considered T5's. I will tell you I was surprised how hot these bulbs get but the heat transfer is nowhere near because the MH seem to be more focused. When I had my glass tops on with the MH It was very VERY hot to touch and now barely warm
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
did your halide fixture have internal fan cooling?
what cools your T5's?
what cools your T5's?
reefdogg1107
Steve
I agree you would have to compare your t5's to 2 250 watt MH to see the difference.. But nice readings with the T5's what ever works right.
PCIALF
Active member
Yes the halide fixture had 2 fans exhausting out the top. The T5 fixture has no fans but is ventilated from front to top so that the heat does exit the fixture. I always run a small fan off to one side blowing across the bulbs keeps them nice and cool I was told to get 2 of these and have them blow from back to front over the bulb ends I will try these at some point
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=17884
PCIALF
Active member
I am curious why would you have to agree with 250's when everything in my tank was doing awesome. These were 150 hqi's Tom let me borrow a 2 x 175w SE mh fixture till my light came in and the 150hqi's were much brighter
There are no rules that says you have to put 250's on a 120 and no 2 tanks are the same I am merely posting my experience and data to show the results
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I agree ALF- your comparison is what it is- take it or leave it.
Thanks for taking the time to do the comparison.
One thing worth mentioning (and I'm sure some of you are already aware of this) a point source of light (such as a halide lamp) creates a lighting "hot spot" directly below it and radiating outwards from it. (This is what produces the glimmer/shimmer lines.)
T5 lighting (and fluorescent lighting in general) produces a more even lighting the entire length and width of the aquarium.
T5 lighting is definitely here to stay- this isn't a 'flash in the pan' lighting format.
Thanks for taking the time to do the comparison.
One thing worth mentioning (and I'm sure some of you are already aware of this) a point source of light (such as a halide lamp) creates a lighting "hot spot" directly below it and radiating outwards from it. (This is what produces the glimmer/shimmer lines.)
T5 lighting (and fluorescent lighting in general) produces a more even lighting the entire length and width of the aquarium.
T5 lighting is definitely here to stay- this isn't a 'flash in the pan' lighting format.
shred5
Premium Member
People have and they are very close in par.
The thing about halides is they put out allot of par directly below the lamps and much less off to the sides.. They have a hot spot.. T-5 put out a much more even light all the way across the tanks. Better reflectors like the luminarc can help that. The key to t-5 is the individual reflector.
The t-5 put out pretty close to the same heat watt for watt.. The diference is usually t-5 are doing it with less watts. You save a little energy.
Dave
acdraindrps
New member
:lol:
Underwaterparadise
New member
Great stuff!!
