PAR Results HQI vs T5

[DEEP BLUE SIX]

Tom at TRS was saying how the T5's PAR readings were blowing the MH's away. Looks like the #'s don't lie. Tank looks awesome John!....even if it is thru a glass top......:worried:

On my current 125 set up I'm only using T5's as supplemental.

However, Tom from TRS is completely correct in my opinion- from my experience with what I've seen in my tanks.

The MH in a way are much more visually intense looking light to the eye and the shimmer is much better. BUT- T5's light up my whole tank, where MH are missing little spots here and there on the ends.

The T5's have a pretty wide put out.

So I can only imagine how good there actual tested PAR is. I'm not bothering to check.

I prefer to use both MH & T5 for the combined look I prefer.

But I will agree- T5's ROCK!!!

 

[DEEP BLUE SIX]

no offense but I have not posted here much since this thread because the way people acted, you would not believe some of the PM's I received I was shocked because people are different behind a keyboard but need to remember they are talking to real people here and should act as if they were standing in front of them, thats OK though people showed me what they really were about.

As far as the update my coral has never had more color, growing as much and fast as it is and oh yea my chiller has not came on once

I may be selling it

Just to back up this and what many people have said about posting here.
FYI(I know people who love this site and don't post or introduce themselves because they want to avoid the drama they have seen here)

Guys & Girls:
Continue to offer advise people, because it helps a lot of us.
Sharing on this site is part of the good nature to it.

However, some of us could stand to be a bit nicer toward each other.
Often why a lot of people don't post here.

We can disagree sometimes perhaps.

But attitudes flair when people can't compose their replys without negativity. Causing sometimes return negativity back. Then things get personal because of someone's commentary that looks inflamatory on purpose and sometimes seemingly a personal attack.

A lot of talented and knowledgable people here in multiple and different ways though.

Remember:
There is often more than just one way to do something right.

'An sometimes when someone could be wrong about something, you should learn to have tolerance and patience with them.

But often it's just differences in close opinions that I have seen-
that tend to direct people negatively after a while. Unfortunate.

If you can't get along just be big enough to end it and move on.
We all want to enjoy this hobby and site together without too much negativity. Stop talking about it if you can't get the person to agree with you. "If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all".

It's not just newbies either that don't know where to stand. Often some that have been here for years can't stop after enough is enough.
Is it really that important to continue pushing an arguement over opinions?

Let's grow up and have fun.
NO BS

 

[Conesus_Kid]

I'm all for T5's, but your experimental methods are really biased.

If you read the thread, you would understand that this was not an "experiment". It was a thread to show what his lights looked like and their PAR when he was using his MH/actinic combo vs. what they look like and their PAR with his new fixture.

There was never any claim that this was a controlled experiment. Just a basic documentation of before/after a lighting change; nothing more, nothing less.

 

[Tank14]

I don't know why people have to get defensive about things. This thread was an awesome example of how one person was able to see the difference in their tank based on the different lighting systems. We all know that every system is unique and will respond better to different types of lighting. Personally I was glad to see the information laid out. Will it change my mind in getting MH + PC for my tank...no. Most things we do in our tanks are by trial and error. Others' experiences simply help us on our own path with our tanks. Who cares what is "better", as long as the slice of the ocean we have in captivity is thriving.
:beer: my .02

 

[DEEP BLUE SIX]

+1

AMEN to that!! :thumbsup:

(Hopefully + 1000 + everyone)
Infinity..................................................:spin2:

 

[superkat]

i also hold firm to the belief that what works well for one may not work as well with another. My Dad used to say, "one man's junk is another man's treasure." FWIW, i am finding an incredible amount of family atmosphere here...and that includes some minor disagreements...but one thing holds us together...and that's the love of our little ocean in a box......:love2:

 

[Gravesj1s]

Hmm, I just read this whole thread. Pretty cool to see the differences of the original poster.
As to some of the responses and I dont want to come across as picky but I disagree with some of them.Discussing some of these is productive to a good forum.IMO.

You donot need 6-8 bulbs to compete with metal halide,I think its more specific to tank size than anything else.Some tanks its more efficient to halide ,some t-5.

I think their is some misconception as far as GrimReefers testing goes,atleast from what Ive read in this thread.Grim (per.comm.2 years ago)told me that the apogee meter he used misread (actually under reads the blue spectrum) He was unaware until discussions he had with someone who owened the LIcor meter.From memory here I believe it was Sanjay.
So the T-5 par results as per Grim are thought to be slightly higher.

Lastly and this is just in opinion but I think to much thought goes into Par as indicative of something of more than it is.Nutrients have most likely more effect on growth and color.

 

[PCIALF]

If you read the thread, you would understand that this was not an "experiment". It was a thread to show what his lights looked like and their PAR when he was using his MH/actinic combo vs. what they look like and their PAR with his new fixture.

There was never any claim that this was a controlled experiment. Just a basic documentation of before/after a lighting change; nothing more, nothing less.

Thank You Conesus_Kid for the defense

This was my point initially when I started this thread. People just amaze me

again this is why I don't post much anymore what a shame

 

[Henry Colf]

It's a shame John, you have alot of experience and alot of good sound advice to give based on your knowledge of reef keeping. We need another strong voice on this forum.

 

[PCIALF]

It's a shame John, you have alot of experience and alot of good sound advice to give based on your knowledge of reef keeping. We need another strong voice on this forum.

Henry you do a great job yourself!!

Well an update
Other than losing the shimmer which I do like it is nice not having all that extra heat and electric with the halides and I am very happy with the T5'5 the tank is brighter overall. My coral and fish are doing great. I have tried some of the led's to try and add the shimmer but they seem to create to much of a hot spot in the tank

 

[superkat]

some of us are playing with the moonlights from Marine Depot...

 

[Henry Colf]

John, I get a decent shimmer effect with just my T-5's by creating a good ripple effect on the top of the water column aiming my two K3's twoards the waters surface.

 

[Gravesj1s]

- FWIW,and not directed to anyone in particular.

Apology to OP for temp sidetrack.

Some of the problems with bulbs burning out early are actually related to temperature.T-5's will not last if not cooled properly.If they are overcooled they lose par.I know grim and some others have toyed with this using a par meter and thermol probe.I think this can be a big problem with diy units as most just stick a couple fans in their and assume its cooling properly.It doesn't seem to be the case with T-5's.The ballasts need to be cooled as well.
Also, bulb orientation has another effect, their is a cold spot on all flourescent bulbs and you actually want this toward the power supply it will increase par slightly.Decrease slightly if oriented to the opposite end.The cold spot would be where the writing on the bulb is located so,(i.e.- ati blueplus ect...

 

[Gravesj1s]

Henry you do a great job yourself!!

Well an update
Other than losing the shimmer which I do like it is nice not having all that extra heat and electric with the halides and I am very happy with the T5'5 the tank is brighter overall. My coral and fish are doing great. I have tried some of the led's to try and add the shimmer but they seem to create to much of a hot spot in the tank

Hi john,
I hate to pry here but anything more you could add when trying out the leds,I am currently thinking about it myself.I have zero experience with any of them.Looking for the shimmer as well.
I assume you mean corals react negatively, is that what you mean by hotspot?

 

[belgian_waffleman]

- FWIW,and not directed to anyone in particular.

Also, bulb orientation has another effect, their is a cold spot on all flourescent bulbs and you actually want this toward the power supply it will increase par slightly.Decrease slightly if oriented to the opposite end.The cold spot would be where the writing on the bulb is located so,(i.e.- ati blueplus ect...

Could you explain this a bit? both ends of the bulb attach to the ballast


btw, I replaced my T5's last week, after 18 months of operation. Boy, what a difference the new bulbs make. but even with the old bulbs I had good coloration and growth. I can't wait to see what will happen in the few weeks in terms of color and growth.

Waffleman

 

[Gravesj1s]

-Waffleman,

Hi,From GrimReefers huge thread the information I was relaying can be found in there but I cant remember where.

As Im thinking about it now Im not sure it would apply to all fixtures but where the power supply cord exits the fixture is where you would want the coldspot end of the bulb to orient.The cold spot located by the writing on the bulb ,orient this end towards the end of the fixture where the power cord comes out of the fixture.

Grim and some others were using a par meter and thermol probe when discovering it made a difference in par.I cant remember much more about it but hopefully by posting this information it might draw someone else into discussion that may have more to share.

Hope this helps,

 

[PCIALF]

Hi john,
I hate to pry here but anything more you could add when trying out the leds,I am currently thinking about it myself.I have zero experience with any of them.Looking for the shimmer as well.
I assume you mean corals react negatively, is that what you mean by hotspot?

I mean that it creates a real bright spot because they are very focused. Corals did not sleep properly if I used them as moon lights and the white ones I tried seemed to bother the fish they would avoid the area where they were. I toyed with setting up a 70w MH for the shimmer but I guess that defeats the whole project that said I am much more happy with the t5's for lighting

btw very true about keeping them cool. I have a small fan that blows across the bulb ends when they are on to reduce the temp and prolonge bulb life. I don't replace my bulbs for at least a year and only do 4 at a time for cost and shock reasons works very well that way