PBT help

ThrowinRoost89

New member
i got him from hector while he had one, he said it would be fine to hold in a 55g for a bit till i got the 120 up.

well he came down with ich about 5 days after i got him, and ive been battling it for a week or so with garlic soaked nori. it went away, but 3 days later when i stopped soaking the food it came back. so i started again and its starting to go away again.he eats like a pig. and has a belly on him.

whats a safe nitrate level for a PBT?


what steps do i take when i set up my 120?

i plan on hypo'ing the fish for 6 weeks in the 120 DT, and putting corals/rock/sand/inverts in the 55g sump.
how do i keep the DT ammonia, and nitrates down? i read that hypo kills all the bacteria. ro do i put some sand and rock in the hypo tank?
does the new DT need to cycle before i put the fish in?
a guy told me it still needs to cycle, because its new water and stuff?

im getting the tank this weekend, and hope to be able to fill it sunday.

i have a post in reef fishes, but its not much help
 
Hello from Chicago!
Not much help? Your questions were answered and you got angry at the answers.
When large amounts of people are asked a question and for help you will get lots of views, explainations, and even some bad advise. But when you are given all of that, its up to you to sift though it to find what is helpful to you.
Your questions about how to set up a tank and how to take care of your ich problem were answered. You became defensive and angry and started calling people names when you were not given the answers that YOU wanted to hear. If you want people to clap you on the back and say that you are doing the right thing and that you are making all good decisions whith your new fish that is dieing of ich, you came to the wrong place. Reef Central is full of people that are here to help with questions like yours because we have all been through the same obsticals in this hobby as you.
Basic social skills are needed to interact with others here and in the real world. Here you are able to hide behind a screen name.
The answers you are looking for here in this local club forum are all found here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1207328&perpage=25&pagenumber=1 in your origional post.

Sorry, but I dont like being called a name. I was trying to help. I know that there were others that gave you problems about the size of your tank and that tang but i was just tring to help with the ich problem. From experience, setting up a bigger tank in one day will not rid you of ich only cause more problems especially the way you planned on cycling the tank.
 
i dont get mad at the usefull info i get, i get ticked off when people say "your fish is doomed" and crap like that.


as for your post, you did not answer a thing about why it needs to be cycled or how to set up a hypo tank. which was the answer i was looking for. all you did was tell me about what im doing wrong. and thats not fixing the problem, thats just helping it. and you act like im sitting on my *** watching the fish die, "because im not doing anything to help it"

and no my questions are not all getting answered, it all just goes back to a tang in a 55g. i know i need to hypo the fish, i got that. but i need the details of how to set the tank up for doing it. NOBODY IS TELLING ME HOW!


dont clutter my new post with non-sence.
negativity is not wanted, and the fish will live weather i have to give him mouth to mouth or not.






so can someone answer the qustions in post #1 with no BS attached to it....

it would be very much appreciated.
 
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Ok, sorry you didnt understand.
I tried to help you. The reason I said your fish was doomed is because of the way you are doing things. we tried to explain that you need to intervene with treatment and waiton the tank upgrade. Moving the fish to a brand new un-cycled tank would be way too much stress on an already sick fish.
As far as your comment on why the tank needs to be cycled, that is basic information that is found in the New to Hobby forum. I dont need to get into it here.
Using caps and explaination marks and telling me not to clutter your post is not helping. I really was trying to help by sending some info your way in your origional post.
As for the 2 members of your local reef club that PM'd me calling you names and laughing about your attitude, post your comments here and try to help your fellow club member not make fun of him. i know its easy but give him a hand, he needs it.
 
"As for the 2 members of your local reef club that PM'd me calling you names and laughing about your attitude, post your comments here and try to help your fellow club member not make fun of him. i know its easy but give him a hand, he needs it."

oh no.......






the 120 is not a new tank, and basically my established 55g with some more water, explain to me why it needs re-cycled?

this is what ive been trying to ask for the last 5 post's..... but all you say is its basic info
 
HMMMMMMM Here is my 2 cent answer. In my opinion it doesn't matter what size tank you put him in or how you landscape it. (not saying put them in a real small tank). PBT are one of the most notorious tangs for getting ich all the time. I have a 300 gallon tank with plenty of live rock in it and from time to time my PBT gets ich. It seems to me that when they are smaller they don't seem to be so territorial/aggressive but as they get bigger they tend to get more territorial/aggressive and fight with every new fish in the tank, which stresses them out and causes them to come down with ich. I run UV sterilizer's on my tank to prevent the ich out breaks and it seems to work. I also put garlic in my food which seems to help as well. Honestly my Hippo tang gets stressed just looking at her wrong and comes down with ich at least every other month. I just ignore it as it always goes away. I guess what I am saying is it's not always the size of the tank or the landscaping. Some fish no matter what you do are more susceptible to ich then others. Also to be wary of his tankmates. They could be stressing it out.
 
well his tank mates are 2 percs, 1 1" small blue damsel and a diamond goby... so im pretty shure he isnt stressed from other fish.

and about 40lb of rock? around that.


garlic also is helping mine, its what im doing now to help him fight it off untill i can do hypo.



but the main thing i need to know, and reason for this post. is how do i set up the hypo tank?


do i put my live rock and live sand in it?
do i put my hob filter on it?
^^both for nitrates^^

how fast do i de-crease the salinity? 1.09 right?
why will the tank need re-cycled, with the lr and ls in it? with the same bioload




thank you FD

and engine 7
im not on here to argue, im here to help my tang, if you dont wanna stick to the point, quit posting.
 
ok, thank you. that is what ive been trying to find out.

well on the site, it says the live rock will live, its just the inverts that may be in it.


so it would be worth a shot to put my hob filter on it then and maybe the sand?
 
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That I cannot help you with. Sorry!!! I would NOT put live sand/rock in a hypo tank as you will only kill it eventually. I would make it barebottom and maybe 1 piece of base rock for the fish to hide. Refer to what chicago sent you. Seems like that might help you. Personally I think an empty 10-20 gallon tank with a piece of base rock in it. Put a heater and a HOB Filter in it and there you go. Thats all I have done and works fine for me. Just make sure you do plenty of water changes in it.
 
i was afraid a 10g would be to small.
but there will be the other 4 guys in with him.
2 percs
small blue damsel
4in diamond goby



should i just do a 10g? i have access to one.
 
If he was in there alone I would say go 10g but if he is going to have tankmates I would do like 20g. It's cheaper to medicate a 10-20 tank. The PBT will be fine in there for a few weeks until he is better.
 
there are other places to find information then from people here on reefcentral. setting up a quarentine with hypo is not an undocumented thing. a simple search on google would return all you need. when you use reefcentral to ask for "help" youre asking for trouble IMO. just do some reading and searching with google. people get easily frustrated with those that wont help themselves first.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10798225#post10798225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fdfiremedic
If he was in there alone I would say go 10g but if he is going to have tankmates I would do like 20g. It's cheaper to medicate a 10-20 tank. The PBT will be fine in there for a few weeks until he is better.





i have a 22g rubbermaid tub i use for salt mixing, would that suffice?

then i can put some lr and ls in the DT, with my damsel in it so it starts cycling, while my corals are in the 55g sump.


hows that sound?




or i can stop out at aquatic tech and see if he has a used 20-30g tank for cheap
 
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I know I am gonna get some grief but I would just set the 10 gallon up and deal with them in there while you are setting up. For a week or so they will be fine. Just put a few small pieces of rock in there for them to hide.
 
Okay so let me get this straight, so i'll set up a 20-30 g tank to put the fish in to hypo, meanwhile ill set up the 120g, with all of the contents of the 55g.

i should ghost feed the tank to keep the bioload up. and that would be cyclin for 6 weeks while the fish are in hypo.

by doing this it would kill all ick in the DT and kill all the ick on the fish.

this sounds about right. right?

Is the coral an GBTA going to be alright in the DT while i do all of this???


Sheffield Lake... I'm not sure how far that is, but im going to check a local fish tank bone yard.
 
with the price of gas, if i can get a 30g for $15 up the street ill prolly do that, but the guy also thinks everything in his store is gold..... like a used 1998 ro unit for $75 : )



how far are ya tho?
thanks for the offer, if your close i will take you up on it. i just have ZERO time anymore with school. all i have is weekends basically and an hr a day of freeplay to work on my tank.
 
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