Permanent Quarantine Set Up Ideas

[shellsea]

After 30 years in reefing I have decided to set up a quarantine tank. I have rolled the dice for many years and have been blessed with minimal loss from ick velvet etc. Anyhow I'm converting a Frag tank that never really proved to be beneficial to a quarantine. 30 gal. Going to have permanent set up and looking for ideas such as permanent residents / plants / macros to keep it from looking too antiseptic. I have read that bare bottom is recommended and intend to pull substrate out and start with fresh water but a bio-wheel seeded from my display tank. Any other thoughts are welcomed. Thanks.


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[shellsea]

After 30 years in reefing I have decided to set up a quarantine tank. I have rolled the dice for many years and have been blessed with minimal loss from ick velvet etc. Anyhow I'm converting a Frag tank that never really proved to be beneficial to a quarantine. 30 gal. Going to have permanent set up and looking for ideas such as permanent residents / plants / macros to keep it from looking too antiseptic. I have read that bare bottom is recommended and intend to pull substrate out and start with fresh water but a bio-wheel seeded from my display tank. Any other thoughts are welcomed. Thanks.


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So, my fellow reefers, with zero replies to my post above am I to assume that a "quarantine" tank that would have "permanent" resident animals, plants or macros making it somewhat of a display tank is a bad idea?

 

[microlady]

Aseptic is the whole point of a quarantine tank to most of us, so I wouldn't bother adding substrate, rocks, or inverts to one.

 

[shellsea]

Ok thanks micro lady, I grasp that aseptic concept. No substrate, rocks or inverts works for me. What about a fish or two that would consider the Q tank their "forever" home? If we were confident that they were treated with copper or whatever could they remain in tank without jeopardizing any new fish introduced at a later time? Other part of my op asked about macro algae. Can it survive a copper treatment if tank needed it?


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[m0nkie]

What is your QT procedure? That will decide alot of things.

I have a permanent 100gal QT. Inside I have some rocks, PVC and a BTA that split a few times.

My QT procedure works like this. All fish go into a 20gal for Formulin bath. Then go into the 100gal for 3 months observation. I fatten them up during this time and also dose Prazipro and feed Metro food. Then i take them out into 20gal for a series of TTM in hyposalinity. Survivors make it into my DT..

So my permanent 100gal has some anemones that survived everything and doing well. I never dose copper. Prazi and metro is fine for BTA.

For awhile i had 5 clowns in that BTA. They stayed there while other fish passed through. They probably have ich but never showed symtoms, i do ich treatment last.

Big downside is i need decent lights for the BTA. I use Kessil AP700. And it's harder to catch some fish. Also if you encounter things like uronema, you probably need to start over on the QT. Im fairly picky when i purchase fish and havent encountered it yet. (knock on wood)

 

[m0nkie]

Forgot to mention i also have inverts in there. Shrimp, snails, giant cowrei, urchin..

Also have a 60gal fishless coral qt. "Everything else wet" goes in there for 3 month qt.

 

[m0nkie]

Your permanent home fish needs to be mellow. Cant be picking on the weaker new fish. They will also get whatever disease your new fish has.

 

[shellsea]

Your permanent home fish needs to be mellow. Cant be picking on the weaker new fish. They will also get whatever disease your new fish has.

Thanks m0nk. Exactly kind of info I was looking for.


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[scooter31707]

My permanent QT consist of a canister filter, a heater and couple pieces of PVC. I open the blinds up during the day for light. I do have an ATO for it also.