Pete's 280 log

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jay was over while I was doing a water change, refilling my 2 part bottles and changing out the carbon in one of the TLF reactors. He was rather impressed just how fast a little acid cleaned off all the calcium buildup :) He also got his first look at AEFW's.

Go figure, just when everything in the tank is looking nice there always seems to be something. I'm a little concerned with not being here to do the every other day turkey baisting of the corals. I did dipped several of corals that I thought were high risk (like the tri colored nana) and didn't see any other then on the blob and my prostrata colony, but still these things are a real PITA

I may be doing a mass dip next weekend
 
Thanks for letting me watch Pete. It was interesting watching you do tank maintenance, I always learn something new.

I was surprised to see how a couple capfuls of pool acid can make a completely coralline-encrusted TLF reactor look brand new in less than five minutes. :lol:

I saw my first AEFW's while Pete dipped some of his corals. Now I know what to look out for.

I also learned to relax. A little tap water residue in the kalk reactor isn't going to nuke your corals. :)
 
Hey Pete, you ever consider getting an AC3 or a ReefKeeper Elite so you can watch your tank parameters while you're out of town?

You have Verizon FIOS, there's no reason you can't hook that up and keep your tank parameters right on your blackberry all week.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14731350#post14731350 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Hey Pete, you ever consider getting an AC3 or a ReefKeeper Elite so you can watch your tank parameters while you're out of town?

You have Verizon FIOS, there's no reason you can't hook that up and keep your tank parameters right on your blackberry all week.

I may eventually get the RK elite. I can hook up the RK2 to a PC to chart get the data on the My Reef software, I just need to run a cable over to my PC. Good idea now that you mention it.
 
Schematic diagram of water make up

Schematic diagram of water make up

here is a diagram of some of what I plan for the water change / reactor area

watersystems.jpg
 
Re: Schematic diagram of water make up

Re: Schematic diagram of water make up

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14735042#post14735042 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psteeleb
here is a diagram of some of what I plan for the water change / yule log area

Teeheehee!!!
 
okay - I'm confused, but what else is new :lol:

what's up with the yule stuff ? ( I see Hop also joined in with the change of avatar, etc) or is it just some evel 4/1 prankstership :lol:
 
You need to drink more coffee, or stop sleeping. Either one tends to keep a guy sharp.

So how's your sump? ;)
 
Excellent diagram Pete. As usual, I bet it's going to look even better in person.

1. I think the only thing you missed is the 1 gallon surge tank drain line back to your primary RO/DI reservoir. The aqualifter pump is doing a superb job of keeping that feed going as opposed to the gravity setup.

2. You also didn't mention where the drain line from your water mixing station is going. Are you going to pump it into yor septic system, or out to the driveway on my shoes? :lol: :)

Will you use separate containers for the drain and fill? Otherwise you'll have to wait forever between the time you drain the tank, pump out the bad water, mix the new water, and put it back.

Now that I think about it, I see a union between the water change container and the sump, but no way to fill the sump automatically. Maybe a second pump that gets turned on?

3. PS: Did you receive any shipments this week? Your regulator and USPlastics order should be in by now no? Fun stuff this weekend if all of your goodies come in.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14739071#post14739071 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
You need to drink more coffee, or stop sleeping. Either one tends to keep a guy sharp.

So how's your Christmas Tree stand? ;)

my Christmas Tree stand is way to small, I have no stockings and my treats are all near zero, so what does that tell you :lol:

And I don't drink (or add) eggnog :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14740973#post14740973 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Excellent diagram Pete. As usual, I bet it's going to look even better in person.

1. I think the only thing you missed is the 1 gallon surge tank drain line back to your primary RO/DI reservoir. The aqualifter pump is doing a superb job of keeping that feed going as opposed to the gravity setup.

2. You also didn't mention where the drain line from your water mixing station is going. Are you going to pump it into yor septic system, or out to the driveway on my shoes? :lol: :)

Will you use separate containers for the drain and fill? Otherwise you'll have to wait forever between the time you drain the tank, pump out the bad water, mix the new water, and put it back.

Now that I think about it, I see a union between the water change container and the Christmas Tree stand, but no way to fill the Christmas Tree stand automatically. Maybe a second pump that gets turned on?

3. PS: Did you receive any shipments this week? Your regulator and USPlastics order should be in by now no? Fun stuff this weekend if all of your goodies come in.

thanks Jay

1) I thought if I added that overflow drain it would get too busy and maybe confuse people. But on the flip side it's what controls the volume so people may need to know.

2) I haven't figured that out yet. I may run it to the driveway or to my septic system via an existing drain over in the kitchen or a bathroom.

3)yes the order form US plastics (the valves) came in. And no, to the regulator.
 
Jay

I see I didn't completely answer your question on the water change. First off it's not a "take water out and replace", it's more a "circulate in freshly mixed water".

Process starting with the tank empty

1) insert plug into overflow line - this will be inside the tank

2) fill with RO/DI - I'll install a ATO switch and timer switch. I'll just set the timer switch and the ATO will shut it off. In case of failure the timer should turn off. This way I can just start the water and not have to watch it fill.

3) with the RO/DI filled add salt - With a consistent set amount of water I will be able to use a pre-measured amount of salt.

4) Turn on water mix/drain pump with valves set for recirculating for mixing. This pump is only intended for mixing and draining, not for pumping water into the main

5) Test water, adjust as required

6) remove overflow plug and open valve from main tank. Let water run from main tank into the water change tank and let run for a few hours as the newly mixed water becomes part of the over all tank volume.

7) insert plug, close mixing valve and open drain valve to drain tank.


I may keep the tank in play during the week to act as a detritus trap.
 
Last edited:
a couple pictures from tonight

my blue tort, well maybe more a purple tort
tort4-4.jpg


the small chips acro fell to the bottom of the tank while I was away so my wife pulled it up and set it in the frag area. other then needing a haircut it looks like it survived the ordeal just fine
it kind of reminds me of "cousin it" from the 1960's Adams Family show
chipshairy4-4.jpg
 
I think you'll love having the actively circulated waterchange tank. Not fussing with the main return pump for waterchanges is convenient. Also I have found that with my similar w/c tank is that it is a great place to dose supplements like 2part if you are want to dose a larger amount all at once without spiking the pH too much.

You will be able to control that feed valve to mix in whatever additives you want as slow or fast as you want. I wouldn't pour in 200ml of alk into my sump all at once, but in the waterchange tank its no big deal because the overflow is so slow and the mixing is far more powerful.


One suggestion... in the diagram is that a union on the overflow? I would also suggest a valve on it as an extra precaution if for some reason the ATO for the w/c tank fails, which could lead to an overflow of RO water into the sump during a waterchange. Just close that valve whenever the tank isn't being circulated. Also you want to be able to fill the tank a bit higher than the drainage height before you circulate it. Otherwise the sump loses a bit of volume filling up the mixing tank to start overflowing.

If you already planned all that and just didn't want to clutter the designs I apologize :)
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14757712#post14757712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
I think you'll love having the actively circulated waterchange tank. Not fussing with the main return pump for waterchanges is convenient. Also I have found that with my similar w/c tank is that it is a great place to dose supplements like 2part if you are want to dose a larger amount all at once without spiking the pH too much.

You will be able to control that feed valve to mix in whatever additives you want as slow or fast as you want. I wouldn't pour in 200ml of alk into my sump all at once, but in the waterchange tank its no big deal because the overflow is so slow and the mixing is far more powerful.


One suggestion... in the diagram is that a union on the overflow? I would also suggest a valve on it as an extra precaution if for some reason the ATO for the w/c tank fails, which could lead to an overflow of RO water into the sump during a waterchange. Just close that valve whenever the tank isn't being circulated.

that's an excellent dosing process approach :thumbsup:, glad you pointed that out. I'll definitely be working that into mine
 
I love the idea of keeping the water change tank water circulating in the main system. That should add another 30-40 gallons of water volume to your system. It definitely will trap detritus too.

Brilliant idea.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14757712#post14757712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
One suggestion... in the diagram is that a union on the overflow? I would also suggest a valve on it as an extra precaution if for some reason the ATO for the w/c tank fails, which could lead to an overflow of RO water into the sump during a waterchange. Just close that valve whenever the tank isn't being circulated. Also you want to be able to fill the tank a bit higher than the drainage height before you circulate it. Otherwise the sump loses a bit of volume filling up the mixing tank to start overflowing.

thanks Ryan, I was thinking about just using a plug on the inside as my first thoughts on the pipe routing would have made it difficult to get a valve in there. But after reading your post and giving it some more thought I may reroute the overflow from the face of the tank or maybe even the other end so I can get a valve in the horizontal run before it runs under the tank to the sump (the tank stand is enclosed by plywood on the end and back)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top