Pete's 280 log

Status
Not open for further replies.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14815567#post14815567 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Your corals don't seem to mind the change at all, they're looking great!

Now tell us all how much you miss dosing two part every day by hand.

the birds nest STN has continued and will have to be cut up. I have no idea if the change out from 2 part to Ca reactor contributed by stressing the coral or not

I didn't mind adding the 2 part (gave me an excuse to check things out) but it was a pain to mix a new batch each week. Now, my wife is very pleased she wont have to deal with it while I'm gone.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14816014#post14816014 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
Nice Pete. Corals look awesome and I'm glad you got your CA reactor pretty dialed in... In a few months or so I'll probably be joining you... tank is way outpacing the Kalk topoff.... I went a week or so without dosing 2-part or testing and alk dropped to 6.7dkh... thankfully the corals didn't seem to notice, full color and PE the whole time. Its back up to 9 but it's definitely a chore keepin it there :)

Thanks Ryan,

Yes it seems pretty close to set, the DKH just tested at 8.8ish. the 8.8 only being one reading it could very well be within the tolerance of the kit, or variables in consumption, or even Kalc dosing with the ATO. So, nothing that would merit me making any changes yet.

If I missed dosing a week, who knows where it would be, considering even with the Kalc I'd drop 3-4 in a day.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14815922#post14815922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
I've just been adding additional magnesium every time I do a water change, maybe a cup's worth of it. Mag has been sticking up in the 1400s, which is just fine. Alk and Calcium have been spot on since I started.

Your PH swing appears to be exactly where mine is, the kalk topoff tends to keep it above 8.


sounds like a good plan - I'll have to wrk in a routine once I see what the readings are and determine how much they change weekly.

Ph was 8.24 when I got home, and I know I need to refresh my Kalc so it may work itself back up a bit.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14816471#post14816471 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henryreef
wow you have a really cool tank and so many beautiful corals. Love the tank :) good luck with keeping your alk up.

thanks :)
 
one of those interesting nights

my wrasse decided to check out the pod population in the overflow

I carved up my birdsnest, tossed about 1/3 of it (mostly dead stuff and some recent STN). I cut all the pieces past the STN areas, I then gave it a good dip in ReVive. Now I just hope the STN stops

and while my hands were in the tank placing several of the smaller birds nest pieces, my LMB (Jabba) decided to perch between a rock and my thumb. So, I proceeded to pet him and he just sat there. Wish I had a camera :)
 
Petting fish, they must trust you. Mine know better... if I could only get my hands on that springer's dottyback.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14822169#post14822169 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
Petting fish, they must trust you.

Pete's lawnmower blenny doesn't trust him so much as he is too fat and lazy to move. He's called "Jabba the Hutt" for a reason. :lol: Maybe Pete will post up some pics, that fish is huge.

How's the alk still holding up Pete?

Where's your bubble count and reactor PH sitting?

Did you find any reef cooties on the STN'ed birdsnest?

PS: Thanks a million for the heads up on the 1/2" OD black vinyl tubing. I'll be switching that out this weekend during the water change. How did you soften it up to fit it so well on your barb fittings?
 
Get a cup of boiling water, insert the tubing into it for 10-15 seconds, and slip the tubing over the barb.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14822458#post14822458 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Pete's lawnmower blenny doesn't trust him so much as he is too fat and lazy to move. He's called "Jabba the Hutt" for a reason. :lol: Maybe Pete will post up some pics, that fish is huge.

How's the alk still holding up Pete?

Where's your bubble count and reactor PH sitting?

Did you find any reef cooties on the STN'ed birdsnest?

PS: Thanks a million for the heads up on the 1/2" OD black vinyl tubing. I'll be switching that out this weekend during the water change. How did you soften it up to fit it so well on your barb fittings?

Dkh was 8.4 so it dropped about 0.6 in two days, not bad though. I thought I'd just up the flow a bit but when I checked, it was barley a trickle. Not sure why but I upped it some and dosed to bring it back up to just over 9.0

bubble count is still about 3 per second

Ca ph was 6.30 as set, but increased when I upped the flow so I'm adjusting down the flow some and watching it. Looks like it's dropping back to where it was. I head out of town in a few minutes and will be calling the wife to check it again later tonight.

Nothing on the birdsnest worth noting. The dead areas had the typical, pods, stars, algae and a couple mojano anemone's. On a positive note there does not appear to be any more STN (keeping fingers crossed)
 
the water change tank came in today. I can't wait to get home to get it in place and to see how it looks. I want to get the plumbing roughed out so I can easily get to valves and still have clear access to the reactors. I'll also be working in an electrical panel with timers and indicators as I posted earlier.

I had my wife check a few things and apparently the flow through the Ca reactor slowed down again. I suspect the needle valve may not be able to hold accuracy with a large pressure differential across the plastic needle. I may try to get the flow close with the ball valve and fine tune it with the needle valve to see if that takes care of the issue. I know TJ and BigJay both are using the same valve and need to check with them to see if they are having the same issue.
 
Pete, I'm running that little gate valve on the output side of the reactor. I have it dialed in from the ball valve into the reactor at a steady trickle, and then down to a smaller trickle after the reactor with the gate valve. That keeps a small amount of pressure inside of the reactor pushing water out, but the korallin is clear PVC so it can handle it.

Another thing that helps: The korallin (like yours) has a second output valve on the top that you use when you first fill the reactor. Korallin's instructions say to keep the top valve open a little, at a few drops per minute into the sump. That way all of the air that gets trapped in the top of the reactor can bleed off.

I can't wait to see your new water change/circulation tank in action. I'll give you a call this Friday when you get back. This is going to be awesome.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14834533#post14834533 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psteeleb
the water change tank came in today. I can't wait to get home to get it in place and to see how it looks. I want to get the plumbing roughed out so I can easily get to valves and still have clear access to the reactors. I'll also be working in an electrical panel with timers and indicators as I posted earlier.

I had my wife check a few things and apparently the flow through the Ca reactor slowed down again. I suspect the needle valve may not be able to hold accuracy with a large pressure differential across the plastic needle. I may try to get the flow close with the ball valve and fine tune it with the needle valve to see if that takes care of the issue. I know TJ and BigJay both are using the same valve and need to check with them to see if they are having the same issue.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14834533#post14834533 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psteeleb
tI had my wife check a few things and apparently the flow through the Ca reactor slowed down again. I suspect the needle valve may not be able to hold accuracy with a large pressure differential across the plastic needle. I may try to get the flow close with the ball valve and fine tune it with the needle valve to see if that takes care of the issue. I know TJ and BigJay both are using the same valve and need to check with them to see if they are having the same issue.
I have the same problem... I feed mine initially via a ballvalve out of the manifold, then fine tune it with the needle valve right before the reactor.

I need to adjust the flow a tiny bit about once a week. Another guy told me he thinks it has something to do with feeding the reactor off of the manifold... beats me though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14836521#post14836521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Pete, I'm running that little gate valve on the output side of the reactor. I have it dialed in from the ball valve into the reactor at a steady trickle, and then down to a smaller trickle after the reactor with the gate valve. That keeps a small amount of pressure inside of the reactor pushing water out, but the korallin is clear PVC so it can handle it.

Another thing that helps: The korallin (like yours) has a second output valve on the top that you use when you first fill the reactor. Korallin's instructions say to keep the top valve open a little, at a few drops per minute into the sump. That way all of the air that gets trapped in the top of the reactor can bleed off.

I can't wait to see your new water change/circulation tank in action. I'll give you a call this Friday when you get back. This is going to be awesome.

thanks Jay - I think I'll try to dial it in with the ball valve and fine tune it with the needle. I did not see a flow direction on the valve but no that I think about it for some reason I thought they were flow direction sensitive. but it's a cheap valve and you know what they say
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14838872#post14838872 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
Another suggestion Pete, if you have the cash to throw at it:

http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=0323013
A flow meter will tell you exactly what your effluent rate is at all times without having to guess or see how fast it can fill up your measuring cup.

thanks Jay, I like the idea but not hte price. I may try one but I like the price of this one better. :thumbsup:

http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...low-Meters/Inline-flow-meter-5-250-gph-scale/


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14839209#post14839209 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty
I have the same problem... I feed mine initially via a ball valve out of the manifold, then fine tune it with the needle valve right before the reactor.

I need to adjust the flow a tiny bit about once a week. Another guy told me he thinks it has something to do with feeding the reactor off of the manifold... beats me though.

thanks TJ, I appreciate the feedback

I don't see how the manifold would have anything to do with it, unless it's a pressure differential issue and the needle valve just doesn't like the higher pressure pump supplying it

I'll try to dial in the ball valve so the needle valve can be more open. but sounds like you are having the same issue anyway. I think I'll also turn it around to see it that changes anything.
 
here's the new 37 gallon water change tank. As you can see I need to get my Brute empty and out of the way before I get it in place. So, ironically I need to do a water change before I can install the water change tank.

more to come
waterchangetank.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14840076#post14840076 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Neat. What did that vessel cost? I like it. How much does it hold?

It's rated as 37 gallons. The inside dimensions are 12" wide, 24" long by 30" tall. You can buy them in just about any size in 6" or less increments, but the prices can be all over the place.

the tank cost $91 plus shipping ( I think shipping was another $25)

It's made of food grade polypropylene plastic and has a large lip on it for strenght but it also provides a nice seat for a lid.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14839907#post14839907 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psteeleb
thanks TJ, I appreciate the feedback

I don't see how the manifold would have anything to do with it, unless it's a pressure differential issue and the needle valve just doesn't like the higher pressure pump supplying it

I'll try to dial in the ball valve so the needle valve can be more open. but sounds like you are having the same issue anyway. I think I'll also turn it around to see it that changes anything.
Sounds like a plan... be sure to keep me posted if you figure something out. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top