"Phil's 125 Semi-Aggressive Reef"

[Duke4life]

After more research here's a list I've come up with so far:

2 - chainlink eels (get small/juvenile) will add towards the end
5 - pajama cardinals
3 - lyretail anthias (1male & 2 females)
2 - a pair of long nose hawkfish
2 - wrasses unsure of what type yet
3 - chalk bass

Maybe:
An orchid dotty back
A royal gramma

I feel like the fish should be okay but it's the eels that this is being designed around that I'm unsure with as I have no experience with them. If I was doing any type of grouper I wouldn't even consider any of these, but can I get away with these since the chainlink isn't as aggressive towards fish and the only thing I find a solid "NO" to are crustaceans.

Am I on track, partially on, or way off?

 

[Duke4life]

Could the chainlinks be added 1st? Or would they see the other new additions as food?

 

[Pastey]

Congrats on dropping the smoking but your team of choice is really unfortunate Good luck with tank plans!

 

[Duke4life]

Kyuss after rereading your responses I realize these should be ok with the list above. I was overthinking things a little to much, just like how a qt tank doesn't cycle as compared to a dt ( customer service at LiveAquaria finally helped on this, another overthinking).

 

[jjk_reef00]

just like how a qt tank doesn't cycle as compared to a dt ( customer service at LiveAquaria finally helped on this, another overthinking).

Not sure what exactly that statement means, you have to have a cycled qt or you will not have much success. A few peieces of live rock work or some filter pads that have been in your sump also work. Throw away the filter pads when you are done and place new ones in your sump. I also find that large frequent water changes on my QT tanks helps since I am often overfeeding them while trying to get new fish to eat.

 

[Duke4life]

So many contradictions on QT tanks

So many contradictions on QT tanks

Not sure what exactly that statement means, you have to have a cycled qt or you will not have much success. A few peieces of live rock work or some filter pads that have been in your sump also work. Throw away the filter pads when you are done and place new ones in your sump. I also find that large frequent water changes on my QT tanks helps since I am often overfeeding them while trying to get new fish to eat.

:headwalls::headwalls::headwalls::headwalls:

That's how I feel on this subject. I've done tons of research on this alone, and could give you a ton of different answers.

Here is my QT tank plans:
20 gal long
Hang on back filter w/bio wheels
Pvc
power head

 

[jjk_reef00]

I've done tons of research on this alone, and could give you a ton of different answers.

There is only one answer, your QT must be cycled unless you are doing tank transfer or something where the fish is in the tank for a very short period of time.

 

[Duke4life]

There is only one answer, your QT must be cycled unless you are doing tank transfer or something where the fish is in the tank for a very short period of time.

Is it a good idea to setup a QT tank so that it can cycle b4 setting up my DT? Such as setup DT up 2 weeks after the QT is up? Im estimating 4-6 weeks 2 cycle.

 

[jjk_reef00]

Is it a good idea to setup a QT tank so that it can cycle b4 setting up my DT? Such as setup DT up 2 weeks after the QT is up? Im estimating 4-6 weeks 2 cycle.

Yes that is a good idea, that way you can QT fish and have them ready for the DT when it is cycled. I usually end up QT'ing a fish for 8+ weeks.

 

[kegogut]

Is it a good idea to setup a QT tank so that it can cycle b4 setting up my DT? Such as setup DT up 2 weeks after the QT is up? Im estimating 4-6 weeks 2 cycle.

You can always use Prime or Smart Start to speed the cycle up as well. Ive used Smart Start alot and love it.

 

[Duke4life]

Yes that is a good idea, that way you can QT fish and have them ready for the DT when it is cycled. I usually end up QT'ing a fish for 8+ weeks.

I feel more on track now. Gonna get the QT up and running this weekend.

So next up is stocking list and order.

 

[Duke4life]

Question about lighting:

Thinking of getting the advanced led strip light from Marineland. Would 2- 36 in. work?

 

[Kyuss]

I don't know anything about that particular fixture, but if you're not planning on trying any corals you can use whatever works for you to see the fish. IMO less is more in that case as it'll just help nuisance algae to grow and you'll be the bulk of the CUC.

 

[Duke4life]

Good to know, I should be good then. Kris what else do you have with yours?

Philllip

 

[Kyuss]

Livestock wise just a niger trigger that's currently around 4-1/2" with his streamers, and about a 3" kole tang that likes to follow the eel around when he's out. There was also the 6" harlequin tusk that's still on time out in the sump due to some aggression he showed towards the tang, but again he tended to follow the eel around as well with no issues. I also have some snails in there ranging in from quite tiny, to about 2" and the eel pays them no mind. In fact the tusk is the only one that bothered the snails if he caught the small ones out during the day.

The chainlink has been at the top of the tank during feeding time with each of them and no big issues there either. I do use a feeding stick to get food to him specifically though to keep biting accidents down as I said their sight isn't the best, and it seems he's learned he doesn't have to chase the food around with the fish and will just come up to the spot I feed him at. If it's something bigger like clams off the shell I just hand feed him. He's also quite adept at hunting down any scraps the fish miss. He has made some pretty impressive ambushes from the rocks on larger pieces tumbling across the substrate. I also have some softies, zoas, & LPS in the tank and he hasn't disturbed them at all. If I can re-acclimate the tusk without any aggression toward the other fish, that will pretty much be it for my stock list fish wish.

 

[Duke4life]

How does this list look?

How does this list look?

2 - chainlink eels (get small/juvenile)
5 - pajama cardinals
3 - lyretail anthias (1male & 2 females)
2 - a pair of long nose hawkfish
2 - wrasses unsure of what type yet
3 - chalk bass

This is the list I've come up with. Anything I should remove? Is this overstocked? Trying to go with swimmers in all phases of the water column.

 

[Duke4life]

Livestock wise just a niger trigger that's currently around 4-1/2" with his streamers, and about a 3" kole tang that likes to follow the eel around when he's out. There was also the 6" harlequin tusk that's still on time out in the sump due to some aggression he showed towards the tang, but again he tended to follow the eel around as well with no issues. I also have some snails in there ranging in from quite tiny, to about 2" and the eel pays them no mind. In fact the tusk is the only one that bothered the snails if he caught the small ones out during the day.

Thanks for the info and 1st hand advice. Thinking about adding a few crabs after tank cycles so the chains will already have prey available.

 

[tkeracer619]

Hah, thats a pretty good trade of addictions. Congrats on quitting! I'm just about 14 years to the day. Never look back!

 

[Duke4life]

Hah, thats a pretty good trade of addictions. Congrats on quitting! I'm just about 14 years to the day. Never look back!

Thanks! I'm a little day dreaming at this point. Patience there's that damn word again lol.

Starting to think I've gotten away from an aggressive predator tank....

 

[Duke4life]

Here we go again, I was just sitting a little dazed and was trying to figure out what do I already own that is fish safe and allow the good bacteria to colonize on. Then it hit me, why not use the bio-balls that I'm no longer using.

So here's my ? Can I use bio-balls floating loose or place in a container and keep a flow at to get the good bacteria in my QT?