Eduardo Lúcio
New member
"Bravo !!!!!!!!!"..................one of the most impressive reefs........congratulations
Duka..from Brazil
Duka..from Brazil
Pictures - 800 gallon reef - 7+ years in operation
- Thread starter hcrk
- Start date
.........
For example, I worked out the design of the aquarium stand with the person who was responsible for the actual fabrication of the stand. However, before starting the fabrication process, I forwarded the design to an engineer for approval and modifications.
Another example involves the skimming system. The preliminary design was done by the individual who was ultimately responsible for it's fabrication. However, after examining the preliminary design, I asked for modifications that were ultimately incorporated into the final product.
The water flow pattern was an amalgum of my design with modifications suggested by some experienced hobbyists that I discussed my plans with.
I worked out the electrical together with the electrician.
The shape, location, height dimensions of the tank and sump, the rockwork, basement and adjacent area designs are all mine.
The objective was to create a realistic looking scene of "living" shape, texture and color which would all blend together. Glass and pvc had no place in this scene and, accordingly, the intention was that these "distractions" would be visually absent.
The question of what I would do differently is a bit complex. The complexity arises from the fact that the reef and it's support systems are dynamic in the sense that they have evolved over time . In other words, to the extent that I decided that something should/could be improved, I improved it.
For example, the lighting that I started with has changed. I started with 8 x 400 watt metal halides and 4 vho actinics. After considering the matter for some time, I decided to move to the present arrangement. Accordingly, the changes were made some 3 years ago.
On the issue of structural changes "if I had to do it over again", I quite frankly, cannot think of a significant change that I would make to the basic structure and attributes of the aquarium.
On the issue of approach, I would be even more patient in the sense that the pace of my introductions would be even slower, more careful and more measured than was the case with this reef.
Also, I would, at an earler stage, have stopped "fighting the natural flow of the aquarium".
To be more specific, what I have noticed is a curious tendancy among hobbyists (myself included) to continually try and impose our will on our creations. Rather than going with what appears to work, we appear determined to try and force our systems to accomodate the difficult and even the unworkable.
To use the appropriate metaphors........I would "go with the flow" "right from the start" (sounds a bit like a song title, doesn't it.........:dance: )
Finally, I have seen Mike Paletta's book (which I very much enjoyed) and I thank you for the compliment.
However, I should note that, when I ordered the live rock (which I did directly from the diver) I asked for and received some rather large pieces which, of course, have made a difference in terms of "ease of placement".
In my optinion, the two most vital "survival essentials", are aeration and heat. This translates to auxiliary power for an air pump(s) and an auxiliary heating source for the area (to keep the temperature constant (in cooler months).
...and yes, my area has experienced power disruptions...and no, I have never lost any animals even though my precautions are simple and basic.
The flow from the sump is generated by 2 Iwaki 70's located at opposite ends of the 10' sump (which is partitioned lengthwise). I believe that they are rated at 1,500 gallons each. You should however note that I also have
- 4 other Iwaki pumps (on closed loops)
- one internal magnetic pump
in order to supplement flow.
......As the whole house in well air-conditioned, the air conditioning seems to take care of the humidity in summer (it also helps to keep the temperature in check).
Have only noticed what I would characterize as a reasonably minor humidity problem in winter (have large central humidifiers that seem to have little to do).
Must admit, however, that I have at times considered isolating the tank areas from the rest of the house using, a heat exchange system, for example (like the idea, in theory, but the problem, such as it is, doesn't seem to warrant this sort of expense)....
I should perhaps add the following:
- that when I get an opportunity, I may add a fan to the outside via an adjacent and presently hidden window (you can see the window in one of the "before" pictures that I posted previously).
- that we actually have two complete heating/cooling systems in our home (one which services the basement and first floor and one that services the second floor). I believe that this feature likely helps control any excess humidity.
Whenever I notice an aiptasia, I simply take some cement (the material that people use to affix coral to rock) and close up the hole. Unless the aiptasia has a "back door", that simple measure effectively deals with the problem.
I'm not sure how common this practice is......however, it originally struck me as a simple and pretty obvious solution and it has now worked for me for several years.
Bubble algae seem to largely be controlled by my Foxface. If I see a larger bubble (almost invariably in a location where the Foxface cannot get at it), I remove it. I use a syphon, if the bubble is l ikely to burst on removal.
Red algae (which I havn't seen for quite some time) only seems to accumulate in stagnant areas.....so I make sure not to have any.
The tangs will, of course quickly consume any other algae.
..........
Finally, I would again like to thank all of the posters who have been so positive in their comments on my system....your compliments are very much appreciated....
Note.........additional pictures of sump, etc. to follow shortly
.
Yes. The 3 metal halide fixtures are suspended from a 3/4" x 10' tube that runs along the length of the reef. Accordingly they can be moved, if necessary. However, I should add that this is rarely necessary.Travis said:
I did a substantial portion of the design work. Nevertheless, where I believed it appropriate and necessary to do so, I employed the services of professionals.dvlhzdu said:
For example, I worked out the design of the aquarium stand with the person who was responsible for the actual fabrication of the stand. However, before starting the fabrication process, I forwarded the design to an engineer for approval and modifications.
Another example involves the skimming system. The preliminary design was done by the individual who was ultimately responsible for it's fabrication. However, after examining the preliminary design, I asked for modifications that were ultimately incorporated into the final product.
The water flow pattern was an amalgum of my design with modifications suggested by some experienced hobbyists that I discussed my plans with.
I worked out the electrical together with the electrician.
The shape, location, height dimensions of the tank and sump, the rockwork, basement and adjacent area designs are all mine.
The final product that you see is very much the the aquarium that I envisaged during the planning phase of my reef. As I indicated previously my goal was to try as much as possible to create a "window on the ocean".jumboshrimp18 said:
The objective was to create a realistic looking scene of "living" shape, texture and color which would all blend together. Glass and pvc had no place in this scene and, accordingly, the intention was that these "distractions" would be visually absent.
The question of what I would do differently is a bit complex. The complexity arises from the fact that the reef and it's support systems are dynamic in the sense that they have evolved over time . In other words, to the extent that I decided that something should/could be improved, I improved it.
For example, the lighting that I started with has changed. I started with 8 x 400 watt metal halides and 4 vho actinics. After considering the matter for some time, I decided to move to the present arrangement. Accordingly, the changes were made some 3 years ago.
On the issue of structural changes "if I had to do it over again", I quite frankly, cannot think of a significant change that I would make to the basic structure and attributes of the aquarium.
On the issue of approach, I would be even more patient in the sense that the pace of my introductions would be even slower, more careful and more measured than was the case with this reef.
Also, I would, at an earler stage, have stopped "fighting the natural flow of the aquarium".
To be more specific, what I have noticed is a curious tendancy among hobbyists (myself included) to continually try and impose our will on our creations. Rather than going with what appears to work, we appear determined to try and force our systems to accomodate the difficult and even the unworkable.
To use the appropriate metaphors........I would "go with the flow" "right from the start" (sounds a bit like a song title, doesn't it.........:dance: )
Finally, I have seen Mike Paletta's book (which I very much enjoyed) and I thank you for the compliment.
Nothing whatever is fastened. Everything is carefully balanced. Early on, I experienced some minor "avalanches", but this "unpleasant experience" stopped long agoslapshot said:
However, I should note that, when I ordered the live rock (which I did directly from the diver) I asked for and received some rather large pieces which, of course, have made a difference in terms of "ease of placement".
In a power blackout, it would be unnecessary to keep everything going; just certain fairly basic "essentials".rufio173 said:
In my optinion, the two most vital "survival essentials", are aeration and heat. This translates to auxiliary power for an air pump(s) and an auxiliary heating source for the area (to keep the temperature constant (in cooler months).
...and yes, my area has experienced power disruptions...and no, I have never lost any animals even though my precautions are simple and basic.
The flow from the sump is generated by 2 Iwaki 70's located at opposite ends of the 10' sump (which is partitioned lengthwise). I believe that they are rated at 1,500 gallons each. You should however note that I also have
- 4 other Iwaki pumps (on closed loops)
- one internal magnetic pump
in order to supplement flow.
To quote my May 17 post on this issue (which you likely missed given the ever expanding volume of this thread)...tang_man_montreal said:
......As the whole house in well air-conditioned, the air conditioning seems to take care of the humidity in summer (it also helps to keep the temperature in check).
Have only noticed what I would characterize as a reasonably minor humidity problem in winter (have large central humidifiers that seem to have little to do).
Must admit, however, that I have at times considered isolating the tank areas from the rest of the house using, a heat exchange system, for example (like the idea, in theory, but the problem, such as it is, doesn't seem to warrant this sort of expense)....
I should perhaps add the following:
- that when I get an opportunity, I may add a fan to the outside via an adjacent and presently hidden window (you can see the window in one of the "before" pictures that I posted previously).
- that we actually have two complete heating/cooling systems in our home (one which services the basement and first floor and one that services the second floor). I believe that this feature likely helps control any excess humidity.
At this time I don't really have any sort of significant nuisance algae problems.BAJA272 said:
Whenever I notice an aiptasia, I simply take some cement (the material that people use to affix coral to rock) and close up the hole. Unless the aiptasia has a "back door", that simple measure effectively deals with the problem.
I'm not sure how common this practice is......however, it originally struck me as a simple and pretty obvious solution and it has now worked for me for several years.
Bubble algae seem to largely be controlled by my Foxface. If I see a larger bubble (almost invariably in a location where the Foxface cannot get at it), I remove it. I use a syphon, if the bubble is l ikely to burst on removal.
Red algae (which I havn't seen for quite some time) only seems to accumulate in stagnant areas.....so I make sure not to have any.
The tangs will, of course quickly consume any other algae.
As my answers to your questions are a bit complex and as I am a bit pressed for time, I will leave them for my next post..mmgm said:
..........
Finally, I would again like to thank all of the posters who have been so positive in their comments on my system....your compliments are very much appreciated....
Note.........additional pictures of sump, etc. to follow shortly
.
Carl_in_Florida
Active member
I understand that you took your time with this setup by why did it take you 8 years to let us know about this? Did you just stumble on this site or did you decide you were now able to put up with our non-stop questioning?
Did you just not realize that there would be 15000 hits on the thread in the first 3 weeks?
Did you just not realize that there would be 15000 hits on the thread in the first 3 weeks?
.....
Overflows:
The aquarium was constructed with exterior overflow boxes located at both ends of the tank.
The two 1 1/2" pipes leading from the right hand side of the overflow box lead to one side of the sump (which is divided lengthwise).
The 1" pipe on the bottom of this overflow box leads to an Iwaki 30 pump which then pumps water to the skimming system.
Sump:
The dimensions of the sump are - 120"l x 36"w x 18"h
It was constructed on site (entirely of glass) together with and immediately below the aquarium.
The capacity of the sump is approximately 336 gallons. However, as part of the capacity is reserved for overflow to accommodate drainage from the upper tank when the main pumps are shut down, the sump usually only contains about 200 gallons of water.
The sump is divided lengthwise into two halves by a pane of glass.
Each half, in turn, consists of two sections: a 6' section containing a series of "over & under" baffles; and a 4" section with a large spunge (at the start of the run) and a three and one-half foot unobstructed run to the pump inflow.
The baffles are there to eliminate bubbles and the 42" runs serve as settling chambers where detritis accumulates and can easily be syphoned out.
Five 2 1/2" holes have been drilled into the middle of the pane of glass that divides the sump lengthwise. This is necessary in order to equalize water levels between the two halves of the sump.
An Iwaki 70 pump located at the opposite end of each 10' run (opposite to the input of the overflow box) returns the water to the tank.
What this arrangement means is that water must run 10' before it is picked up by the Iwaki 70 and pumped back into the aquarium.
Please note the following in the picture:
- glass bracing to prevent splashing and bowing;
- an alarm contact on the left hand side (white mechanism) which sets of the house alarm if the level of the sump rises too much.
- a simple top-up system (also on the left hand side) which consists to a basic mechanical valve and which is connected to the RO system in the auxiliary room some 20' away.
The black cord on the right leads to a small pump that pumps water to the calcium reactor (through the green tube).
Alarm System:
You may also want to note that the aquarium area is outfitted with water sensors connected to an alarm system and is centrally monitored. I should add that the addition of these relatively inexpensive sensors and their connection to our home alarm system has proven invaluable as it has, on several occasions, alerted us to minor leaks (usually related to the skimming system)which, if left undetected, could have evolved into enormous problems.
..........
Overflows:
The aquarium was constructed with exterior overflow boxes located at both ends of the tank.
The two 1 1/2" pipes leading from the right hand side of the overflow box lead to one side of the sump (which is divided lengthwise).
The 1" pipe on the bottom of this overflow box leads to an Iwaki 30 pump which then pumps water to the skimming system.
Sump:
The dimensions of the sump are - 120"l x 36"w x 18"h
It was constructed on site (entirely of glass) together with and immediately below the aquarium.
The capacity of the sump is approximately 336 gallons. However, as part of the capacity is reserved for overflow to accommodate drainage from the upper tank when the main pumps are shut down, the sump usually only contains about 200 gallons of water.
The sump is divided lengthwise into two halves by a pane of glass.
Each half, in turn, consists of two sections: a 6' section containing a series of "over & under" baffles; and a 4" section with a large spunge (at the start of the run) and a three and one-half foot unobstructed run to the pump inflow.
The baffles are there to eliminate bubbles and the 42" runs serve as settling chambers where detritis accumulates and can easily be syphoned out.
Five 2 1/2" holes have been drilled into the middle of the pane of glass that divides the sump lengthwise. This is necessary in order to equalize water levels between the two halves of the sump.
An Iwaki 70 pump located at the opposite end of each 10' run (opposite to the input of the overflow box) returns the water to the tank.
What this arrangement means is that water must run 10' before it is picked up by the Iwaki 70 and pumped back into the aquarium.
Please note the following in the picture:
- glass bracing to prevent splashing and bowing;
- an alarm contact on the left hand side (white mechanism) which sets of the house alarm if the level of the sump rises too much.
- a simple top-up system (also on the left hand side) which consists to a basic mechanical valve and which is connected to the RO system in the auxiliary room some 20' away.
The black cord on the right leads to a small pump that pumps water to the calcium reactor (through the green tube).
Alarm System:
You may also want to note that the aquarium area is outfitted with water sensors connected to an alarm system and is centrally monitored. I should add that the addition of these relatively inexpensive sensors and their connection to our home alarm system has proven invaluable as it has, on several occasions, alerted us to minor leaks (usually related to the skimming system)which, if left undetected, could have evolved into enormous problems.
..........
carpetride
Premium Member
So when do we get to see the Batcave? I'm not for sure which is more impressive the tank or the equipment.
Peter Schmiedel
New member
Exterior overflow is somthing I have never seen here in Europe and could be a good solution for my next system. Can I have more detailes about it. Size? Picture form the tank size? Is it a silent solution or do you here a quite some water flowing?
Beside your perfect tanks I really like the way you express yourself and how carefull you are taking care of all the life inside it. I wish more people would think that much about the needs of the fish and corals they keep.
Beside your perfect tanks I really like the way you express yourself and how carefull you are taking care of all the life inside it. I wish more people would think that much about the needs of the fish and corals they keep.
Peter Schmiedel
New member
Exterior overflow is something I have never seen here in Europe and it could be a good solution for my next project. Can I have more detailes about it. Size? Picture from the tank (front) side? Is it a silent solution or do you here a quite some water flowing noise?
Beside your perfect tanks I really like the way you express yourself and how carefull you are taking care of all the life inside it. I wish more people would think that much about the needs of the fish and invertebrates they keep.
Beside your perfect tanks I really like the way you express yourself and how carefull you are taking care of all the life inside it. I wish more people would think that much about the needs of the fish and invertebrates they keep.
order_of_the_spam
New member
great tank, i really liked all the fish you had (extra points for the flame hawk) seems like these days i see a lot of corals but not so many fish in the big tanks which is too bad because the fish always compliment the corals so nicely.
im not sure if you already posted a list of fish, think you could put on up again?
and good job keeping up with the posts and answering all the questions
im not sure if you already posted a list of fish, think you could put on up again?
and good job keeping up with the posts and answering all the questions
scroll back a couple pages, he listed the fish on page 4:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=373673&perpage=25&pagenumber=4
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=373673&perpage=25&pagenumber=4
order_of_the_spam
New member
thanks
