poolkeepers LED build

Does anyone have a pic of a red planet under LED's?

ORA Red Panet
DSC_0262.jpg

best i can do still working on getting the right setting down on my camra with leds
 
Looks great Bill! I'm sure with Brandon's helping hand, the fixture is going to turn out great. I would love to come over and see how the C channels are working out. If they keep the LEDs cool enough, then that would really help reduce the costs.

For reference, these were the PAR readings I got from when I borrowed the meter a few weeks ago. Mixture of 40/60 optics, dead center of fixture.

6" - 650
12" - 470
18" - 350
22" - 230

Although these were the numbers I was getting, I believe it probably produced much more. I had some bleaching at 18". A more accurate assessment would be a PUR reading (usable radiation). But your values will probably be pretty high due to the number of LEDs you're using.
 
Looking Good

Looking Good

Looks great Bill! I'm sure with Brandon's helping hand, the fixture is going to turn out great. I would love to come over and see how the C channels are working out. If they keep the LEDs cool enough, then that would really help reduce the costs.

For reference, these were the PAR readings I got from when I borrowed the meter a few weeks ago. Mixture of 40/60 optics, dead center of fixture.

6" - 650
12" - 470
18" - 350
22" - 230

Although these were the numbers I was getting, I believe it probably produced much more. I had some bleaching at 18". A more accurate assessment would be a PUR reading (usable radiation). But your values will probably be pretty high due to the number of LEDs you're using.
Donny
Those numbers look real good and I would be happy with that, Did you run your led the same amount of time or slowly ramp up the photo period? as from your old lighting.
Bill
 
I ramped up both time and optics. I only had a 70w MH over it before, so I had to. But I started with no optics, then 80, 60, 40....
 
Pandarian what size tank do you have and how many leds gave you that par reading? how many would you suggest for a standard dimension 75 gallon?
 
Brandon - I did them length-wise by rows, just to distribute the colors more evenly.

gannmann9876 - I had this fixture on a 34g solana (20" cube basically) with 24 LEDs. The PAR was that high in the center and was less near the edges of the tank. For a 75g, I would have to play with it, but would probably start with at least 72 or so LEDs. Bill's tank is 4ft and I believe he's running 96. It's a little wider though. But realistically, a diy LED set up is pretty cheap compared to running MHs. I've built 3 fixtures so far am pretty satisfied with them.
 
New soldering iron comes in tomorrow. I'm going to Bill's on Thursday to break it in. :D

Donny, did you add any extra colors or anything yet? Also, that C-channel ends up being fairly expensive in the end, but like Bill mentioned, it may be possible to source it somewhere other than Lowes where its $8 for 4ft. I'm also looking at doing 1/4" aluminum plate. 12"x12" piece is only $20 shipped. I'm planning on putting a computer heatsink or two on top of it to aid a little bit in cooling. :)

Brandon
 
Par

Par

Looks great Bill! I'm sure with Brandon's helping hand, the fixture is going to turn out great. I would love to come over and see how the C channels are working out. If they keep the LEDs cool enough, then that would really help reduce the costs.

For reference, these were the PAR readings I got from when I borrowed the meter a few weeks ago. Mixture of 40/60 optics, dead center of fixture.

6" - 650
12" - 470
18" - 350
22" - 230

Although these were the numbers I was getting, I believe it probably produced much more. I had some bleaching at 18". A more accurate assessment would be a PUR reading (usable radiation). But your values will probably be pretty high due to the number of LEDs you're using.

OK i got the Par Meter today and with the fixture only running 2/3 of what i have and still 38 more Led's to add to that Im getting a Pretty good 350-360 par at 10" under the water line and around 1400 just under the cool whites but did not want to base to much on this until we get it all complete and everything working.
But to say the least Im Stoked already! Thanks To Brandon....
Bill:beer:
 
Remember what I told you about par on LEDs. Your par won't go up much with blue LEDs. The parameter don't pick that type of spectrom from blue LEDs. We will need a pur meter like Donny said. With LEDs its all about the lumans.

Also I've read some people post that they are going to put red LEDs. Why? In the ocean red spectrum only goes 15-20' down so most coral don't use the red much. Natural white or cool white LEDs have eough what you'll need. If you put tomuch red you will brown out or kill them. Red LEDs are really used for hydroponic growing. Just my 2 cents.
 
Red LEDs in and of themselves are overkill. Its really more about the amber/orange stuff. Check out the aesthetics thread over at Nano Reef. It will give you far more detail than I can. :)

Brandon
 
In short, though, many people are reporting things similar to what Tomoko mentioned... lack of a few colors... this is being resolved in varying degrees and various methods through the use of warm white LEDs (what we're doing with Bill's build), neutral white LEDs (what I'm doing in my build), and using blue LEDs (regular blue, not to be confused with royal blues).

Brandon
 
Its a great read. Let me know what you think. I would have just given you a link, but for obvious reasons I can't. :)

Brandon
 
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