Potassium level 100 ppm

Sawen

New member
Just bought a salifert potassium kit and did the test twice and got 100 ppm result. How is this even possible? I also watched tutorials on Youtube just to make sure I was doing things right. It seems I did. Anybody?

I have a mixed tank. I dose 2 ml of vodka daily.

Alk: 8.0
Calcium: 420
Magnesium: 1300
Nitrate: 20 ppm
Salinity: 1.025
Temperature: 78
Phosphate: traces
 
that sounds too low to be correct! try testing a fresh sample of newly mixed salt water, if that tests low too, then either the salt you're using is low or something is wrong with the testing procedure or kit.....
 
that sounds too low to be correct! try testing a fresh sample of newly mixed salt water, if that tests low too, then either the salt you're using is low or something is wrong with the testing procedure or kit.....

Excellent answer. I use AquaForest Reef Salt which should test around 400.
 
Carbon is known to deplete potassium.

I did read that as well but 100 down from a normal 400 seems to be too big a jump to be explained by vodka dosing. I will prepare some water for a water change tomorrow and test this new water like outssider said.

My red montipora seems washed out though. I also have some potassium ordered online and it should be here in a couple of days.
 
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I am not sure why carbon should deplete potassium. That sounds like a testing problem to me. I agree with testing some freshly-mixed saltwater, and working from there.
 
I am not sure why carbon should deplete potassium. That sounds like a testing problem to me. I agree with testing some freshly-mixed saltwater, and working from there.

Bacteria that import nitrate, phosphate (or other types of negatively charged ions) also need to import a positively charged ion to maintain ion balance. The cation that is used the most for this role is potassium. Sodium is more abundant but it causes protein precipitation in high amounts, so it is not used extensively for this process.

NO3- and PO4- import is either conducted by a K+ symport or an other membrane pump independently pumps in K+. Most common pump for this would be a H+/K+ antiporter that pumps H+ out and K+ in. Passive pumps like these are very sensitive con concentration gradients but there are also pumps like the Na+/K+-ATPase antiporter that pumps Na+ and K+ in while spending ATP energy. Since it spends energy it can work well against the concentration gradients.

When carbon dosing is used to reduce NO3 and PO4, it causes bacteria to import large quantities of K as well. And that K is eventually removed from the system by the skimmer with the bacteria.

I try to maintain K in my system around 400 ppm I do measurements for it about once a month and I have seen it drop below 250 ppm. I dose amino acids rather than ethanol or acetic acid, but it cause similar effects. I dont know for how long and how much the OP is dosing carbon, but a long term high dosage could definitely reduce K (I agree that 100ppm is a bit extreme tough).

Also salifert K kit is very sensitive on the dropper used for titration. I would wipe the tip of the dropper after each drop to ensure equal drop sizes.
 
Bacteria that import nitrate, phosphate (or other types of negatively charged ions) also need to import a positively charged ion to maintain ion balance. The cation that is used the most for this role is potassium. Sodium is more abundant but it causes protein precipitation in high amounts, so it is not used extensively for this process.

NO3- and PO4- import is either conducted by a K+ symport or an other membrane pump independently pumps in K+. Most common pump for this would be a H+/K+ antiporter that pumps H+ out and K+ in. Passive pumps like these are very sensitive con concentration gradients but there are also pumps like the Na+/K+-ATPase antiporter that pumps Na+ and K+ in while spending ATP energy. Since it spends energy it can work well against the concentration gradients.

When carbon dosing is used to reduce NO3 and PO4, it causes bacteria to import large quantities of K as well. And that K is eventually removed from the system by the skimmer with the bacteria.

I try to maintain K in my system around 400 ppm I do measurements for it about once a month and I have seen it drop below 250 ppm. I dose amino acids rather than ethanol or acetic acid, but it cause similar effects. I dont know for how long and how much the OP is dosing carbon, but a long term high dosage could definitely reduce K (I agree that 100ppm is a bit extreme tough).

Also salifert K kit is very sensitive on the dropper used for titration. I would wipe the tip of the dropper after each drop to ensure equal drop sizes.

Wow.....very interesting information. I have a water change coming up tonight. I cannot wait to test the water in my bucket.
 
I just tested my new saltwater. In a 5 gallon bucket mixed at 1.025 ( 79 F ) using AquaForest Reef Salt advertised as having between 380-400 potassium.

I read the instructions again and I think I have respected them carefully. I have been doing tests on reef tanks for 20 years now so I would be very suprised I am not doing it the right way.

My tank tests 100 and the new water tests 190. I believe I have a bad test kit.

So now my question is the following. Can I reasonably conclude now that my tank is about 90 ppm too low for potassium? :headwallblue:
 
I just tested my new saltwater. In a 5 gallon bucket mixed at 1.025 ( 79 F ) using AquaForest Reef Salt advertised as having between 380-400 potassium.

I read the instructions again and I think I have respected them carefully. I have been doing tests on reef tanks for 20 years now so I would be very suprised I am not doing it the right way.

My tank tests 100 and the new water tests 190. I believe I have a bad test kit.

So now my question is the following. Can I reasonably conclude now that my tank is about 90 ppm too low for potassium? :headwallblue:

I dont think so. It is hard to say if the error will be linear or exponentiation. Like the if it is reading ~400 ppm as 190, your reading as 100ppm can be ~200ppm. I would say it is probably below normal, but hard to say if it is 90 ppm or 200ppm or something entirely different.

One other possibility is salt bacjhhaving low potassium. If you ordered potassium supplement, you can prepare a 400ppm K solution in RoDi water and measure that with the test kit. If it is ~190ppm again, you have a bad kit,if not you have a bad salt batch.
 
I dont think so. It is hard to say if the error will be linear or exponentiation. Like the if it is reading ~400 ppm as 190, your reading as 100ppm can be ~200ppm. I would say it is probably below normal, but hard to say if it is 90 ppm or 200ppm or something entirely different.

One other possibility is salt bacjhhaving low potassium. If you ordered potassium supplement, you can prepare a 400ppm K solution in RoDi water and measure that with the test kit. If it is ~190ppm again, you have a bad kit,if not you have a bad salt batch.

Thank you so much for your answer. I have been using Instant Ocean for the last 10 years but switched to AquaForest about three months ago. This bucket I tested today I bought last week. I do 15% water changes every week. If I had a bad batch of AquaForest, I do not believe it could have dropped so low so fast. Right?
 
Thank you so much for your answer. I have been using Instant Ocean for the last 10 years but switched to AquaForest about three months ago. This bucket I tested today I bought last week. I do 15% water changes every week. If I had a bad batch of AquaForest, I do not believe it could have dropped so low so fast. Right?

Most likely
 
Bacteria that import nitrate, phosphate (or other types of negatively charged ions) also need to import a positively charged ion to maintain ion balance.
I have heard this theory in the past, but I haven't seen much evidence that the amount of bacteria skimmed is sufficient to cause any measurable depletion. It's possible, but far from clear, at least so far.
 
Just bought a salifert potassium kit and did the test twice and got 100 ppm result. How is this even possible? I also watched tutorials on Youtube just to make sure I was doing things right. It seems I did. Anybody?

I have a mixed tank. I dose 2 ml of vodka daily.

Alk: 8.0
Calcium: 420
Magnesium: 1300
Nitrate: 20 ppm
Salinity: 1.025
Temperature: 78
Phosphate: traces
Just comper your test kit with others aquarium.

Sent from my SM-G928C using Tapatalk
 
I just tested my new saltwater. In a 5 gallon bucket mixed at 1.025 ( 79 F ) using AquaForest Reef Salt advertised as having between 380-400 potassium.

I read the instructions again and I think I have respected them carefully. I have been doing tests on reef tanks for 20 years now so I would be very suprised I am not doing it the right way.

My tank tests 100 and the new water tests 190. I believe I have a bad test kit.

So now my question is the following. Can I reasonably conclude now that my tank is about 90 ppm too low for potassium? :headwallblue:

I wouldn't conclude anything.
Take your test kit to the LFS & test it against their tank water.
Get them to test your water.
 
I will be receiving some potassium today.

I suspect potassium is low but I do not know how low.

I suspect my test kit is wrong.

I suspect my salt is ok.

So here is my plan.

A second large 20% water change tommorrow.

I will slowly add some potassium everyday ( very small amounts ) until I buy a new test kit from a different source within a week or two. I will carefully watch my corals for any bad reaction.
 
I will be receiving some potassium today.

I suspect potassium is low but I do not know how low.

I suspect my test kit is wrong.

I suspect my salt is ok.

So here is my plan.

A second large 20% water change tommorrow.

I will slowly add some potassium everyday ( very small amounts ) until I buy a new test kit from a different source within a week or two. I will carefully watch my corals for any bad reaction.
Do it outside the aquarium and check.

Sent from my SM-G928C using Tapatalk
 
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