if you have ich the best way to eradicate it is using a qt and treating infected fish with hyposalinity tx. or cupramine.(true qt 3-5 wks).yes ich may in fact be dormant but this will eradicate the parasite on the fish and prevent fish loss ..uv,garlic,cleaner shrimp/wrasse, etc is not a tx..helps but will not stop a full blown outbreak..
Potters with ich
- Thread starter psuedopimp
- Start date
psuedopimp
New member
i told the wife if we don't set up a tank for qt it will die. she finally found a spot ontop of the dryer. she said "doesn't that tank leak". i said "naw i am pretty sure that is was just water from the ATO". dang thing leaked all over the dryer and over the laundry room floor. so now im trying to figure out what leaked out and what evaportated.
he's a trooper i can't believe he has been around for 6 years.
But i started IO lifeguard (1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone) on monday night. I looked for something with malachite in it but didn't find it. he is still eating and moving around good, and the fuzzyness seems to be fading a little. his eyes were almost frosted over. and they seem to have gotten a little better. hard to tell because the flash light and kitchen light don't compare to MH.
he's a trooper i can't believe he has been around for 6 years.
But i started IO lifeguard (1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone) on monday night. I looked for something with malachite in it but didn't find it. he is still eating and moving around good, and the fuzzyness seems to be fading a little. his eyes were almost frosted over. and they seem to have gotten a little better. hard to tell because the flash light and kitchen light don't compare to MH.
From what I've read Cleaner Wrasses are really a keystone species for healthy reefs and should be left in the wild. The removal of a cleaner wrasse from a reef can cause other fish there to die from or at least suffer parasites. They're not fast or prolific breeders and are sparsely spaced out in the wild.
IMO there are better ways to treat parasites in an aquarium than putting thousands of wild fish in harms way by collecting cleaner wrasses.
A QT is a great start. Paraguard, Formalin, and copper medications work great when used as directed. Cleaner shrimp are also effective when the fish will let them get close enough to do their job, but IME the fish never let the shrimp do their job...
just my 2¢
-Doug
IMO there are better ways to treat parasites in an aquarium than putting thousands of wild fish in harms way by collecting cleaner wrasses.
A QT is a great start. Paraguard, Formalin, and copper medications work great when used as directed. Cleaner shrimp are also effective when the fish will let them get close enough to do their job, but IME the fish never let the shrimp do their job...
just my 2¢
-Doug
sgallant04
New member
odd, I've had fairly good luck with with my cleaner shrimp.
psuedopimp
New member
the IO lifeguard has seemed to do the job. the clown has survived the treatment and i am getting ready to put him back into the display. I can definatley say that this is better than the pimafix
psuedopimp
New member
okay as i had the clown bagged up and acclimating for the trip back into the display, i noticed he was covered in ich spots. i guess i didn't see them in the qt tank. so the lifeguard stuff is crap too. so i found some quick cure (formalin and malachite green) tonight will be the second dose of that. i am putting 1 drop per gallon.
after the first dose, i have noticed that the clown is very lathargic, except when i put some flake food in. he still actively goes and grabs and eats, but he will prefer to lay on his side in the back of the qt tank.
he as also developed a black dot on one side right on his gut. im not sure what that is.
i really have lost hope for this one my next step will be to wait 3 months to add any more fish.
but what to use in qt that will kill ich before it goes into the tank because none of these seem to be working
after the first dose, i have noticed that the clown is very lathargic, except when i put some flake food in. he still actively goes and grabs and eats, but he will prefer to lay on his side in the back of the qt tank.
he as also developed a black dot on one side right on his gut. im not sure what that is.
i really have lost hope for this one my next step will be to wait 3 months to add any more fish.
but what to use in qt that will kill ich before it goes into the tank because none of these seem to be working
psuedopimp
New member
okay so i am about to administer the third and final dose of quickcure. the clown is relatively more peppy this afternoon. really aggressively ate and was swimming around more normally than he has in the last 3 days.
the black dot has developed into a black wart looking thing. cant tell really because it is right behind his pec fin. anyone with a suggestion as to what that might be?
the black dot has developed into a black wart looking thing. cant tell really because it is right behind his pec fin. anyone with a suggestion as to what that might be?
deehz
New member
Hey, do you have a pic Psuedopimp? This is what I found and I think this is what your clown has: The condition is known as Hyper-Melaninization. Here is the link on the Marine Depot forum that you can read on.
Also, I started a QT tank once my maroon "pig" clown got the first stages of Ich. This is key from what i have read in all of the forums, to catch it early. Put him in the QT and did a 15 minute dip of hyposalinity for 5 days straight. I did use Kent Marine Garlic with his food to build up his immune system, sorry Steffen, and some Cupramine by Seachem(also be ware that some copper or most copper based med's are very lethal to Angel fish including Potters. I read ALLOT!). He showed promising signs of coming back but left him in the QT for 5 weeks more till the Ich cycled itself out of harms way in my DT (typically, Ich can still remain "dormant" for up to 2-4 months). After I had put him in, I watched him very closely for the next couple of weeks. This is when i knew that the Ich in my tank had all but disappeared--no signs of "white spots". Now, if I buy new fish, off to a hyposalinity bath they get and into a QT for up to 6 weeks. But I don't medicate unless i "see" white spots forming. Hope this helps. Thanks!
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic51406-10-1.aspx
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/hyposalinity/Hyposalinity_OST_Osmotic_Shock_Therapy.htm
psuedopimp
New member
well i studied him alot last evening. the black dot looked more like a blood blister. so what ever it is, it is internal. i watched him a little this morning, and it seems that it has receeded. it looked a lot better this morning, almost like he is getting better. but the way this debackle has panned out, im not getting to excited.
there are still white dots on him. i am thinking about a major water change the next two days to give him a break from the meds, then starting the quickcure (formailin and malachite green) for a second round.
there are still white dots on him. i am thinking about a major water change the next two days to give him a break from the meds, then starting the quickcure (formailin and malachite green) for a second round.
psuedopimp
New member
i may do the hypo. i will have to borrow a refractometer. how long can you do hyposalinity without long term damage.
deehz
New member
I did it once a day for 15 minutes. Some people that I have read, do it 3 times a day for up to 2 weeks w/the fish returning back to a very good state of health. I am not a big fan of "meds" but found that w/the combo of hypo (w/a 2 gallon container w/an air line and stone) and Cupramine (in the qt) helped quite a bit in getting rid of the Ich on the clown and his health (I did nothing in the DT and just let the Ich "cycle" itself out w/o meds). Also, water changes are helpful, but the Ich may still be dormant in your tank.
Just my .02 as well Thanks!
Just my .02 as well Thanks!
psuedopimp
New member
okay so i could prob do it twice a day, early morning and night. did you just plop him back into the regular strength water? how did you acclimate him back to the higher salinity. or his he in there for such a short time that it doesn't matter.
deehz
New member
I acclimated him not for long out of the tank and into the hypo bath (i used very little water from the QT tank and acclimated her/him with the hypo bath water). However, to not cause anymore undue stress that she/he is in, I did acclimate it a little longer before going into the QT--about 30-45 min till it acclimated to the water parameters of the QT (the hypo bath water is much lower in salinity and slightly different temp than your QT water). I have read, again, that some people just "plop" them in and out of the QT, while some do the acclimation process to prevent anymore prolonged undo stress that the fish are under. I chose the latter.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Similar threads
