Power Tools

[Vincerama2]

Aside from big power "table" based things, you can start of slowly and then figure out what your style/needs are. For instance, a handheld jigsaw and a router would probably get you started. And from there you can determine if the convenience and power of the other tools are needed. I didn't say drill, because every one should have a drill (corded, not cordless...there is nothing quite as frustrating as having the battey pack run dry in the middle of a project! And corded versions have more power. Or else get a multi battery system).

Also, don't forget to build/buy a good worktable. The B&D Workmates are nice and portable. You could also go get a folding table at Office Depot (or Staples, or whevever) for less than $50. That way you don't have to eat on the floor because your kitchen table is full of acrylic parts!

V

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8090348#post8090348 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MayoBoy
Check Craigslist http://www.craigslist.org/about/cities.html

In our area, there are at least 3 or 4 tablesaws for 50-200 bucks. Not to mention jointers, planers, bandsaws, etc.

/proud owner of a restored Powermatic 65 (before and after)

Drool... don't tell me you paid $50 for that? I got a $200 1980 cast Craftsman saw, added machined pulleys and linkbelt. 72" Excallibur fence, trunion micro adjsusters and some other stuff..... it cuts as well as a PRO cabinent saw... but I STILL want one of those powematics (or old rockwells or deltas). Nice job on the re-work BTW. What type of fence did you end up with?

 

[BubbleMonkeyIII]

10" Table Saw- for sheet acrylic, acrylic tubing, wood
10" chop/combination saw - Large ABS, some PVC
Roto/Dremel for boring things out
Palm/Orbital Sanders for sanding things
Grinder with fiber metal blade for cutting things quickly (remove the guard)

I use a portable table saw with extension on one side. Though I could see a GREAT use for a LARGER one or extensions for the portable ones for larger stock (comes in handy to suppor the material)


For 1/2- 1" PVC just get a good hand held CUTTER like the guy above said from the LHS (they are usually RED) cuts PVC really quickly and cleanly. Easier and safer than a table/chop saw.

Also the KEY to working with ACRYLIC is a good ACRYLIC BLADE. these are special blades that wont chip the acrylic. Usually CANNOT get them at HD, OSH or LOWES. They are a bit pricey but worth it. US PLastics, or TAP plastics has them 7"-10" I have used a 7" with good sucess on a 10" table saw.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I gotta say, that I own several dental drills (very high end dremels... my grandfather was a dentist) and an acutal dremel. MY brother and father have the same stuff. NONE OF US really ever use the dremels. Yes they come in handy, but out of all of the tools I own, I use the high speed drill motors the least.

I am sure others love their dremels (as evidenced by posts in this thread).

 

[Vincerama2]

I use a cheapo "plywood/plastic" blade for my 10" table saw. It was like 10 bucks. I DO NOT run it backwards like some people suggest. It gives a REASONABLY clean cut. Admittedly there can be a small amount of chipping, but considering the low quality of my glueing...it doesn't seem to matter!

I use carbide tipped straight router blades to scrape the edges clean. I don't mean IN THE ROUTER, I just use the bits by hand. You can of course also use the back of a hacksaw blade for scraping. Every time I go to Tap and look at the scraper tool, I want to buy it, but I'm too cheap to dish out 8 bucks for something that I can use a hacksaw blade for!

V

 

[MayoBoy]

No, I paid a little more than that, about double... Everything was there except for the switch, cord and a decent fence. I probably put 100 bucks in material plus the fence (It's a Vega). I had the paint custom matched to the interior of the dust door (the recipe is on the old woodworking machine website http://www.owwm.com ) so it's a dead on original match.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Man some people just find all of the gems. I decided onthe excallibur after playing with it, the beisey and the vega. However I am sure that I would have been happy with any of them.

What a beautiful saw. MY largest complaint is the handwheel size on my crapsman.... I am going to order cast handles this winter. Sadly there just is not enough clearance to put larger ones on.

 

[MayoBoy]

So I shouldn't tell you about my Red Star Multiplex 40A radial arm saw that I picked up for 50 bucks?

Before:

After:

(my daughter was 3 at the time and said it looked just like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang)

 

[Solitaryensis]

Can anyone reccomend a good beginner table saw. I was at HD the other day and they had a 10" Ryobi on sale for $100.00. I was tempted to get it but it seemed a tad cheap for a table saw. Im looking to spend about 150-200
TIA

 

[Vincerama2]

Look at the $300 Ryobi BT3100, it's a beginners saw with some nice features. Including it's own fan website www.bt3central.com
(weird to have a fan site for a saw)

V

 

[CoolUsername]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8122755#post8122755 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Vincerama2
I use a cheapo "plywood/plastic" blade for my 10" table saw. It was like 10 bucks. I DO NOT run it backwards like some people suggest. It gives a REASONABLY clean cut. Admittedly there can be a small amount of chipping, but considering the low quality of my glueing...it doesn't seem to matter!

I use carbide tipped straight router blades to scrape the edges clean. I don't mean IN THE ROUTER, I just use the bits by hand. You can of course also use the back of a hacksaw blade for scraping. Every time I go to Tap and look at the scraper tool, I want to buy it, but I'm too cheap to dish out 8 bucks for something that I can use a hacksaw blade for!

V

Hacksaw huh? Good idea. Wouldn't have thought of that.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Nice arm saw... I used to think I wanted one... but I can live without it. The modern chop saws seem to have replaced them and negate the risk of whackign your arm off when the blade gouges unexpectedly.

Solitary...

You really have to ask yourself what you need the TS for. The $100 saws are toys... They cut wood but don't do it well. They don't have much power and don't have accurate fences or large enough tables to cut anything more than small pieces. With a helper you can wrestle sheet goods through them.

If it is a rainy day toy for the oddbal project then it will be fine. If you intend to do some decent woodworking, then don't settle for a cheap contractors saw or kids toy. Save a few more bucks and get a low end cabinent saw or high end conractors saw.

The fence is what matters. Look into getting a cheap saw at a garage sale or the craigs list. Throw a JET, BEISEYMEYER, INCRA or EXCALLIBUR fence on it and you will have a serious machine. The Ryobi mentioned is decent, so are the low end JETs and GRIZZLEYS. I woud NEVER EVER EVER EVER buy a saw that would not fit an aftermarket fence.... NEVER!

Bean