Protein Skimmer Production/Improvements

Bob, I cut the air off for the JG valve completely using the JG ball valve I put on the unit. It is hard to tell in the photo, but the bubble size is much smaller now and what you see in the cup is from a little less than 24 Hrs. after cleaning.

I am now getting more skimate production than before since I cut off the air from the JG valve. :) Thanks for the tip!

-Jerry

105136skimmer7.jpg
 
Jerry: The bubbles look much finer. Good. I may be misinterpretting your post, but if you completely shut off the air: not so good. Could you achieve equal or finer bubbles by opening the air valve a bit and reducing the outflow gate valve?

Bob
 
Bob,

He's got the extra ozone fitting, which is just a hole and fitting when you get it. I also plugged mine up -- without doing so you just get too much air.
 
Nicole is right Bob, I just shut off the air that was coming through the JG fitting and left the main air valve open all the way.

Nicole you are right about the JG fitting letting in too much air. Once I closed the ball valve I installed on the port all the way.. the bubble size went down and the skimate production went up! :D

-Jerry
 
I have found that it is also important with the EV-180 to be sure that air can flow freely through out of the collection cup. I had where mine would skim very well until it filled up the collection cup, and then only produce a little.

I found that the drain hose from the collection cup had a dip in it and would fill with water. This would not shut down the skimmer, the air pressure could force the skimmate through the hose, but it WOULD reduce production.

Part of the problem with tuning the EV-180 is that it often LOOKS like it is working when it is not.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6265424#post6265424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul79936

I found that the drain hose from the collection cup had a dip in it and would fill with water. This would not shut down the skimmer, the air pressure could force the skimmate through the hose, but it WOULD reduce production.
Good point as it applies to any remote collection cup setup. I have a tank with a 5' hose that had such a dip and was very erratic until I found and fixed this issue.
 
ev-180

ev-180

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6265424#post6265424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul79936
I have found that it is also important with the EV-180 to be sure that air can flow freely through out of the collection cup. I had where mine would skim very well until it filled up the collection cup, and then only produce a little.

I found that the drain hose from the collection cup had a dip in it and would fill with water. This would not shut down the skimmer, the air pressure could force the skimmate through the hose, but it WOULD reduce production.

Part of the problem with tuning the EV-180 is that it often LOOKS like it is working when it is not.

I have had a dip in my hose. I guess that has been part of the problem. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all the suggestion.

I have made many very small changes to the adjustments. I actually get the best looking bubbles if I remove the ball valve. The ball valve is clean and free of obstructions.

As I adjust the output valve I raise the water in the reaction chamber, but the bubble size does not change.

A friend of mine suggested something, and it makes sense, but I have no way to verify it. I have tried various mechanical fixes, but is there any chance I have something in my water that is affecting my surface tension? As I understand it, a skimmer works by using the surface tension and the specific gravity of the water. Could I have a problem with water my water. This has been going on for 6 months, and I have done six 25 to 30 gallon water changes(once a month)

Could there be something in my water that is effecting surface tension? and in there anyway that I can test this?

This might be grasping at straws, but that's about where I am at.

My water parameters are; salinity is 1.025, the temp is 80F, ph is 8.3, kh is 9.6, calcium is 380, Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite are 0.

Thanks
 
Hi Anthony,
We are building a new 65 gallon sump with an area for a Euro-reef cs8-24" with gate valve, a small "cryptic" refugium and of course the 3rd chamber to dose and return water to the sump.

I believe the optimal water level for the skimmer chamber would be 7" (Euro-reef says between 6 and 8)? I am still confused on a couple of points concerning the skimmer output from the gate valve:
1) Is it better to have the water flow out of the skimmer into the same chamber (back into the skimmer chamber) or to flow it straight into the 2nd chamber (refugium)?

2) Is it okay for the "outflow" pipe to be submerged (cuts down on splash... but somewhere in this thread I thought I saw something about not doing that?)?

Thanks once again in advance!
 
If you flow it out of the feed chamber, make sure that when you turn off the main pump, you turn off the skimmer or it will suck that chamber dry.
 
its really no big deal to return the skimmer outflow into the same chamber that it draws from. As per some pages/posts back... I like to hedge my bets by placing the outflow of the skimmer opposite of the inflow and skimmer pump draw. That's for peace of mind more than anything else. The tank turnover is high enough per hour that it is a moot point either way. Plus it will avoid the risk of burning out the skimmer pump if the sump pump fails, as the good Dr has pointed out above.
 
I found that one out the hard way. I use an oceanic bucket for the return chamber. Buckets float :D So do shorter buckets which is what my return pump sits in. I learned to keep the water level of the sump higher to combat that. Nothing like coming in from a night at the watering hole to hear a dry pump sound and everything a mess. That happens when your skimmer skims out about 10 gallons.
 
Another issue (that I learned the hard way): My skimmer went crazy and filled the collection cup, then the remote collection cup and finally flooded the floor, within 30 minutes it managed to pump about 15 liters on my floor.
I have now installed two float switches in the lid of the remote collection cup, one stops the skimmer and the other starts an air pump.

Vidar
 
AquaMedic Turboflotor

AquaMedic Turboflotor

Amphora - I have the AM Turboflotor too...I bought the "multi" version, which can run external to a sump. Mine also has the oceanrunner pump that came with your skimmer. I first ran mine external to my sump, now I have it set up HOB on the sump.

The inlet restrictor and longer neck piece were provided to allow a greater range of adjustability, especially for those who choose to run the "multi" version, which can be set up in many ways. Obviously, water level (and it's relationship to the skimmer height, and the skimmer pump height), water parameters, distance from skimmer pump to skimmer, etc, all impact the performance of the skimmer, and with only the oulet valves themselves for adjustment, you may not be able get your skimmer running properly.

I too, have had issues with inconsistent skimming - sometimes it runs great, then it will suddenly stop producing any skimmate, and when I adjust it, it will run good for a few hours, then begin overflowing. However, I am still working on dialing in my setup, as well as my maintenance routine...I feel that some of the inconsistancies in how I do things may be contributing to inconsistant skimmer performance.

If you have any questions about setup, feel free to PM me - I'm no expert, but I'd be happy to share more details on my experience with this skimmer so far.
 
turboflotter

turboflotter

I too have the 1000 multi, and was a little miffed at first. I have it currently set op hob as my tank has been moved and sump is not up and running right now. I find that if you run it hob you need to get the pump up as high as possible in the water column to get good skimming results. All I did was create a shelf that the skimmer sits on. A little noisy though as the return is quite high off the water surface. But I get very good results from this method. I still get the crazies every now and again when the skimmer just goes bonkers. I also popped the valves off and allow it to run full throttle. I will consider an upgrade in the future, but for now this one will have to do.
Jason
 
turboflotter

turboflotter

I too have the 1000 multi, and was a little miffed at first. I have it currently set op hob as my tank has been moved and sump is not up and running right now. I find that if you run it hob you need to get the pump up as high as possible in the water column to get good skimming results. All I did was create a shelf that the skimmer sits on. A little noisy though as the return is quite high off the water surface. But I get very good results from this method. I still get the crazies every now and again when the skimmer just goes bonkers. I also popped the valves off and allow it to run full throttle. I will consider an upgrade in the future, but for now this one will have to do.
Jason
 
I find that if you run it hob you need to get the pump up as high as possible in the water column to get good skimming results.

Yes I agree. I actually shortened the hose from the pump to the skimmer and keep the pump a couple of inches below the water level in my sump.

When I first bought the TF Multi I was also having problems with the collection cup filling very quickly and overflowing. I contacted AM they told me to remove the collection cup cover until it settles down and use the flow taps to adjust the water level on the skimmer and it works great.
 
My turboflotter works much better without the flow caps installed. I will be looking into this restrictor on my pump I read about further up in the thread. Would like to try removing it and putting the taller riser on my reactor chamber. See if this mod will get even better performance.
Jaosn
 
Back
Top