Pump Adivse Needed
- Thread starter pezcubano
- Start date
Back on topic as I forgot to add some info (no hard to do when on pain killers).
Regarding the powerheads. the reason the ones I mentioned above are better due to the large cone shaped water current they put out is best described like this.
Pretend you are a delicate coral and need lots of flow. Would you want that flow being sprayed at you through a narrow spray, like a regular powerhead (such as a maxijet etc) or would you want that same high volume of water passing over your whole body in a wider path (such as the ones I mentioned above).
Sort answer is that the wider, high volume current is much better than the narrow, currents. Hope that helps
Regarding the powerheads. the reason the ones I mentioned above are better due to the large cone shaped water current they put out is best described like this.
Pretend you are a delicate coral and need lots of flow. Would you want that flow being sprayed at you through a narrow spray, like a regular powerhead (such as a maxijet etc) or would you want that same high volume of water passing over your whole body in a wider path (such as the ones I mentioned above).
Sort answer is that the wider, high volume current is much better than the narrow, currents. Hope that helps
cristhiam
New member
Hi, can you please explain how to the over the back method? my sump is ready and the only problem I have now is choosing the pump I got an Ocean Runner 6500 (used) but is too loud, something is wrong with the impeller I think, but looking at external pump and the sump is not drilled. Thank you
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
I will explain more tonight -- actually have work to do now. 
Basics -- From that one picture I posted, you put a "T" at the highest point b/t the sump and the pump. There is a check valve on the sump side, only used to "prime" the pipe. Pour water into the pipe, at the "T", so that water fills the pipe. Cap the "T" (( use a threaded cap )) and turn on the pump. The only time I've had to reprime it was when I moved the tank.
I know that is short, but tonight I will go step by step -- I have a bunch of pictures.
Basics -- From that one picture I posted, you put a "T" at the highest point b/t the sump and the pump. There is a check valve on the sump side, only used to "prime" the pipe. Pour water into the pipe, at the "T", so that water fills the pipe. Cap the "T" (( use a threaded cap )) and turn on the pump. The only time I've had to reprime it was when I moved the tank.
I know that is short, but tonight I will go step by step -- I have a bunch of pictures.
ToddrTrex - Thanks ahead of time for the pics and the support. I am in a similar position where I want to go external, but I don't want to go through the drilling of the sump.
Regarding the powerheads, I'm convinced with HOP's explanation about the flow being spread out, it makes perfect sense. Can I accomplish this with a closed loop system? If so, how would you recommend? I'm assuming I'd need a good strong return pump and enough tubing to get me around the tank???
I will look into your advice on the skimmers. I too don't want to waste my time making sure the skimmer is working properly.
Thanks again...
Regarding the powerheads, I'm convinced with HOP's explanation about the flow being spread out, it makes perfect sense. Can I accomplish this with a closed loop system? If so, how would you recommend? I'm assuming I'd need a good strong return pump and enough tubing to get me around the tank???
I will look into your advice on the skimmers. I too don't want to waste my time making sure the skimmer is working properly.
Thanks again...
Well it's a little harder to accomlish the same wide patter with a closed loop. But you simply use larger diameter returns. You can use 1" or 1.5" returns on the closed loop. Just paint the pvc with krylon fussion before placing it int he tank so that it's a not a big, white eyesore
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Okay, here we go.
(( mind you these are old pictures, but the set up is pretty much the same -- the sump is next to my tank, and not under -- wouldn't fit -- but if it would fit, it would still be plumbed the same way ))
Over all shot.
over flow box
Pipe leading to sump (( spa flex is return line ))
Water entering sump.
(( mind you these are old pictures, but the set up is pretty much the same -- the sump is next to my tank, and not under -- wouldn't fit -- but if it would fit, it would still be plumbed the same way ))
Over all shot.
over flow box
Pipe leading to sump (( spa flex is return line ))
Water entering sump.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Over all sump pic.
Now the fun part.
Return section of sump (( PVC shelf holds a cardon bag ))
The PVC in the back corner is the inlet for the return line (( other pieces are for the shelf ))
Close up of the check valve (( only needed to prime the line -- not needed to keep the sump from overfilling when main pump is off, have enough extra space in sump to handle the water -- I wouldn't trust a check valve to prevent a flood ))
Close up of "T" with cap. (( WIth water in the sump, unscrew cap, pour water into the "T", the check valve will keep the one side full, the other side will fill and hold once there is enough water in there to reach the highest point. You will know there is enough water when you can't pour any more in. Screw cap back on -- use teflon tape on threads ))
Now the fun part.
Return section of sump (( PVC shelf holds a cardon bag ))
The PVC in the back corner is the inlet for the return line (( other pieces are for the shelf ))
Close up of the check valve (( only needed to prime the line -- not needed to keep the sump from overfilling when main pump is off, have enough extra space in sump to handle the water -- I wouldn't trust a check valve to prevent a flood ))
Close up of "T" with cap. (( WIth water in the sump, unscrew cap, pour water into the "T", the check valve will keep the one side full, the other side will fill and hold once there is enough water in there to reach the highest point. You will know there is enough water when you can't pour any more in. Screw cap back on -- use teflon tape on threads ))
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Picture of the rest of the line leading back to the pump.
(( note, the ball valve/union is so that I can clean the pump when needed, in that picture the valve isn't fully open -- had just hooked everything up, it sould be fully open at all times [excluding cleaning]
Blurry picture of return pump. (( just out of picture is another ball valve/union [after the pump] if you need to throttle back the pump, this is where you would do it.
So, that should cover it, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
And lastly at shot of a dork (me) staining the sump stand.
(( note, the ball valve/union is so that I can clean the pump when needed, in that picture the valve isn't fully open -- had just hooked everything up, it sould be fully open at all times [excluding cleaning]
Blurry picture of return pump. (( just out of picture is another ball valve/union [after the pump] if you need to throttle back the pump, this is where you would do it.
So, that should cover it, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
And lastly at shot of a dork (me) staining the sump stand.
HOP - I'm going to take you up on your offer to "discuss this later if need be". If you don't mind...
I'm at the point that I'm looking to pick an internal pump. I'm thinking of running a little more than the 3-5 times system volume that you mentioned above as my system currently runs around 8x and it seems to be doing great. I'm about to install a Tunze 9010 in my sump and I'm looking into upgrading the return pump. The Tunze is going to turnover around 650-700gph, and I'm thinking I should match that with the return pump, right? So maybe an Eheim 1260?
What do you recommend? In so far as my HOB, I have one U-tube thats probably giving me around 600gph as well. I'm thinking that I should keep everything in my system flowing around 600gph so that they match, and then taking your advice and running a closed loop in the display via Koralias. Does this sound good to you?
I'm sorry to bother you again, but your posts have been the most informative and easy to understand. I appreciate all your help.
Cheers,
Luis
I'm at the point that I'm looking to pick an internal pump. I'm thinking of running a little more than the 3-5 times system volume that you mentioned above as my system currently runs around 8x and it seems to be doing great. I'm about to install a Tunze 9010 in my sump and I'm looking into upgrading the return pump. The Tunze is going to turnover around 650-700gph, and I'm thinking I should match that with the return pump, right? So maybe an Eheim 1260?
What do you recommend? In so far as my HOB, I have one U-tube thats probably giving me around 600gph as well. I'm thinking that I should keep everything in my system flowing around 600gph so that they match, and then taking your advice and running a closed loop in the display via Koralias. Does this sound good to you?
I'm sorry to bother you again, but your posts have been the most informative and easy to understand. I appreciate all your help.
Cheers,
Luis
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