QT Question

jesterns2

Member
What is the best way to set up a QT? I have been told to use a filter with ammonia chips running through it, that turned out to be a failure and had to put the fish into my display because of ammonia build up.

I have also been told to buy a sponge filter, take the sponge off and let it get seeded in the sump. Does that work? If so how long should I let it be in the sump before it`s ready to keep a 29g QT from ammonia build up?
 
I gave up as I could never get a fish to thrive in a QT. I just watch the fish for an hour in the store, make sure he eats, and then be really picky about acclimation. Obviously, the first 2 steps cannot be accomplished in a internet buy. Hence- I am hesitant to buy fish that are Ick prone without seeing them first. Ya, I know that they can be carriers and not have any spots ( active disease) for up to 60 days. I guess I am too busy, lazy etc. to keep up a QT tank and switch out the bio-filter, etc. Wish I had an answer based on experience or science for you Bill - I bet it takes a few weeks to get a bio load into a filter media to put in a QT tank.
 
There is really only a few ways (IMO) to do a QT tank successfully. Personally, I subscribe to Ted's strategy, and despite having bought two sailfin tangs, and probably over 10 fish in the last year, I have yet to have any kind of ich outbreak at all.

If you do want to do a QT, the first way would be to put live rock in there that you don't mind destroying with copper. You could then cycle it like any other tank, and get it up and running.

The other way would be to just do frequent water changes in the tank to keep your levels low. This is probably the way most people do it. You just want to try to keep the parameters stable and close to your tank parameters. What I would do is use the "waste" water from water changes to put in the QT tank, that way you get better water in your system, and your QT tank automatically matches the tank as far as salinity, pH, alk., etc.
 
Why didn't I think of that- that is exactly how I started both my boys set ups- using water that I would throw away during a water change in my tank. Hmmm... I may be setting up a QT tank after all.You would just need old water from stable/existing tank, a heater, a piece or two of larger PVC pieces for a fish to hide in, and a whisper/penguin type power filer with a media to develop a bio-load and to run carbon,etc. in. If you take 1-2 gallons water out of your stable tank and put in into the QT tank every other day it may develop a bio-load in the power filer media and by taking out of the QT tank 1-2 gallons of water your reduce any high nitrates, ammonia, etc. in that tank. While is isn't enough of a water change to really help your main display - every little bit helps, and this way maybe ensure no contamination of your display by a new fish. It would probably take a while of doing this before the bio-load would be active in the power filter media to support a fish. It still sounds like a lot of work - doesn't it. Although, a few gallons of fresh salt water is certainly easier to make, move around, etc. than a full 10-15 gallons for a real water change.
 
I've done it from scratch as an emergency without losing any fish in a 20 gallon. If you feed 2-3 (small) fish living in a 20-29 gallon environment lightly fed, you don't need to worry about ammonia buildup if you keep up with your water changes. You just have to be very faithful about changing out about 50% a week.

One thing you could do is put a bio-wheel power filter on your established tank for about a month, then transfer it over. This should be enough time to get a good culture, to process the little ammonia you do have in the QT tank processed to nitrate.
 
I only had the fish in the QT for about 6hrs and had an ammonia reading of .25 I did a 20% water change on the QT with display water and the reading didn't change I had a. Hob filter That had ammonia chips and carbon running through it
 
Did you put the water into the tank that the fish came in the bag in?

What was the fish too, because a large fish in that kind of situation could have dirtied the water a lot quicker...but still, that seems obscenely high to me.
 
from my experience to set up a proper QT tank you need to start off with some type of HOB filter that has been cycled on your DT to build up the bacteria needed. if you are using the QT for medical treatment as well and not just observation i wouldnt put any rock or sand in it since it will mostly absorb the medicines you put in (IE copper, prazipro, etc.) i use just some standard PVC piping to supply hiding spots for the fish in there. I always use water from my DT to help start cycle the QT, but always test for ammonia in the QT, and be prepared to do 50% WC's daily if needed.
Also, if treating with any medication make sure you pull all absorbants out of your filter as well. Thats all i can think of now, I gotta go to the gym then off to work for the evening. If I think of anything else i'll post it up.

Good luck!


*EDIT* thought of another thing, how long was your QT running before you put the fish in? A QT is just another tank and will have ammonia spikes when set up new.
 
I gave up as I could never get a fish to thrive in a QT. I just watch the fish for an hour in the store, make sure he eats, and then be really picky about acclimation. Obviously, the first 2 steps cannot be accomplished in a internet buy. Hence- I am hesitant to buy fish that are Ick prone without seeing them first. Ya, I know that they can be carriers and not have any spots ( active disease) for up to 60 days. I guess I am too busy, lazy etc. to keep up a QT tank and switch out the bio-filter, etc. Wish I had an answer based on experience or science for you Bill - I bet it takes a few weeks to get a bio load into a filter media to put in a QT tank.



I am with you Ted. I have always had bad luck with QT systems. I think If I could have a large 50g+ QT system it would be ok, but a 20g just didn't seem to cut it.

Now I just throw the fish in the tank after acclimation.
 
I think I'm going to buy a bubble filter and throw the. Sponge In the sump for a month before I try this again. If it doesn't work I will probably just be very cautious on what I buy and most likely it will only come from wet pets.
 
The QT was just finshed being set up the day before as in I had the salinity level to where I wanted it the day before so I want to say about 2 days. Ive never experienced a tank cycle before as my LR was 2 years old when I purchased it and did not get a cycle when I started the current tank.
 
I think I'm going to buy a bubble filter and throw the. Sponge In the sump for a month before I try this again. If it doesn't work I will probably just be very cautious on what I buy and most likely it will only come from wet pets.

I've seen just as much ich in their tanks as anyone else's. Got 4 firefish from Elmer's on Tuesday...not one problem with them so far, and no QT. Also just got a school of chromis from Seahorse, but I killed one of them in a syphon, and a few just didn't make it (never had better than 50% survival of them for some reason...but figured I'd give it one last try) despite eating. Definitely not a parasite issue though. I haven't had to QT in probably 18 months just by being picky and keeping the fish in my tank well fed.
 
ich is a parasite. It exists in nature everywhere. One of the best ways to combat it (I believe) is to make sure that your animals are healthy. A healthy animal will often have a strong enough immunity to ich so as to prohibit it from becoming a problem. You'll never totally get rid of it, as I've seen a dormant tank for years develop ich with no changes to fish, it just doesn't become "epidemic" unless conditions change...usually the change that brings it up is in the health of the fish. Feed them a varied diet appropriate to what they would be eating in the wild, and make sure they are eating well. Multiple, smaller feedings throughout the day is also preferable if trying to encourage a fish's health.
 
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